Author Topic: 1995 K75 Rehab after 32K miles (Read 51750 times)

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #25 on:** April 24, 2025, 06:16:03 PM »

I'll start checking electrical and the engine.
I have a new driveshaft on order due to worn FD splines.
Original had no play, just starting to round, never lubed by previous owner.
I still feel like it felt like slipping and not engine related but I can't rule it out without troubleshooting.

Here is what my clutch plates looked like

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #26 on:** April 24, 2025, 08:58:03 PM »

I've found the spring for the pushrod bearing is incredibly strong even with the lever in the most relaxed position. It seems it could cause a clutch slip if it presses on the pressure plate too hard.

Laitch · « **Reply #27 on:** April 24, 2025, 11:36:51 PM »

Quote from: Cinderedblock on April 24, 2025, 08:58:03 PM

I've found the spring for the pushrod bearing is incredibly strong even with the lever in the most relaxed position. It seems it could cause a clutch slip if it presses on the pressure plate too hard.

In your photo of the circular diaphragm spring, was that side facing toward the front of your Brick, or toward the rear? Post a photos of the "pushrod bearing spring," its cup and its bearing.

triplek · « **Reply #28 on:** April 25, 2025, 11:10:12 AM »

Quote from: Cinderedblock on April 24, 2025, 08:58:03 PM

I've found the spring for the pushrod bearing is incredibly strong even with the lever in the most relaxed position. It seems it could cause a clutch slip if it presses on the pressure plate too hard.

This is something I vaguely remember happening to me after I made an error. I had to, as you are doing, re-split the engine/trans... but I can't recall the exact error yet. I do know it was something done contrary to instructions and easily redone and caused no damage.

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #29 on:** April 25, 2025, 12:50:33 PM »

The issue is this persisted since I bought the bike. It slipped on my ride home, it cooled down and I got home. It slipped at home. I swapped the clutch plates because I thought it was shot and it's slipping after. I put everything back the way I found it so it's possible.

I've been comparing stuff with videos and the manual to make sure I'm doing it right and I think it's working.

I'm winding about the clutch release bearing. The other post about "clutch release stuck when hot" made me wonder now I see the pushrod may not be behaving correctly

Laitch · « **Reply #30 on:** April 25, 2025, 01:08:59 PM »

I need direct answers to my questions and I need photos for my own understanding, not to hassle you. The minimum thickness of the clutch disc is 4.5mm. Put a straight-edge across the pressure plate in several places and check for warpage.

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #31 on:** April 25, 2025, 02:06:43 PM »

Keep in mind both are fresh from the factory. It seems statistically unlikely the original set and new set are the problem.

I would hope my brand new clutch is right.
That's why I replaced the pressure plate already

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #32 on:** April 25, 2025, 02:09:27 PM »

I haven't pulled out the spring and bearing since I just changed the transmission oil. I may try removing them this afternoon for inspection if I can collect it or tip it

Laitch · « **Reply #33 on:** April 25, 2025, 03:05:28 PM »

Quote from: Cinderedblock on April 25, 2025, 02:09:27 PM

Keep in mind both are fresh from the factory. It seems statistically unlikely the original set and new set are the problem.I haven't pulled out the spring and bearing since I just changed the transmission oil.

The specific clutch problem you've been describing is likely statistically improbable.

The clutch release bearing, spring, and cup should pull right out of their position at the rear of the transmission and drop into your hand so if they aren't releasing from their position easily, that's a problem and perhaps a statistically improbable one, too.

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #34 on:** April 25, 2025, 04:39:34 PM »

I mean during the first disassembly, yes I took them out. Didn't notice anything unusual. That was 2 weeks ago. I have since changed the oil.
The transmission oil was nasty, the others were not. Never noticed oil come out from the bottom despite the transmission not being drained during this time.

Now I have the transmission out again and I didn't want to drain the oil. If I remove the boot it's going to come out. Unless there isn't supposed to be oil behind the rubber boot. Because there is.

I'm going to tip the transmission forward tonight and pray it's not going to leak out the plug on top and I'll send more pictures.

Laitch · « **Reply #35 on:** April 25, 2025, 04:56:48 PM »

I have a K75. I've removed the transmission three times—for spline lube and clutch work. There's no need to tip it to remove either the one-piece clutch piston or the multi-piece piston assembly. If you haven't filled the transmission beyond the fill line on the shock adjusting tool, or if you measured it correctly according to the manual, only a small amount of oil will dribble from the clutch boot. Put a clean pan under the boot to catch it and you can put it back in the transmission later. That's all there is to it. If the piston assembly cannot be removed easily, that might indicate the source of your problem.

Laitch · « **Reply #36 on:** April 25, 2025, 05:18:00 PM »

Is your clutch using the pushrod with the flare near one end?

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #37 on:** April 25, 2025, 05:55:53 PM »

I'll get more pictures soon

Screenshot_20250425-175158_Moto App Launcher.png (15.34 kB . 259x576 - viewed 413 times)
This is the only end flared out.

Laitch · « **Reply #38 on:** April 25, 2025, 06:37:51 PM »

It looks like you've got the correct rod, anyway.

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #39 on:** April 25, 2025, 07:24:48 PM »

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Here are some more

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #40 on:** April 25, 2025, 07:31:28 PM »

Heres the pushrod

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Laitch · « **Reply #41 on:** April 25, 2025, 07:39:05 PM »

Am I see a ball bearing down it that hole? If I am, it shouldn't be there.

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #42 on:** April 25, 2025, 07:42:46 PM »

Yeah looks like it's on top of that snap ring. It's not falling out

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #43 on:** April 25, 2025, 07:48:03 PM »

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Laitch · « **Reply #44 on:** April 25, 2025, 07:58:59 PM »

Quote from: Cinderedblock on April 25, 2025, 07:42:46 PM

Yeah looks like it's on top of that snap ring. It's not falling out

Do you mean the snap ring is on top of it?

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #45 on:** April 25, 2025, 08:01:30 PM »

No, the snap ring is behind it. This would stop the cluck release bearing from going all the way back to the snap ring back there.

It may be wedged into the snap ring or its part of whatever is back there. It turns with it

Laitch · « **Reply #46 on:** April 26, 2025, 12:48:43 PM »

Your last photo of the bearing assembly was much clearer and helpful. Measure the depth of the release bearing and the distance to the circlip of the internal bearing assembly from the edge of the opening the post them.
I suggest you assemble the push rod and release bearing bearing into the transmission then show us how far it protrudes from the transmission.

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #47 on:** April 29, 2025, 10:29:26 AM »

For anyone curious about my rear main seal. I never replaced it and it's not leaking at all. After stress tests and pulling the transmission a week later plus still overfilling my oil. It has not leaked at all. Removing the basket with overfilled oil does infact cause a small amount to come out. Seems perfectly fine to me.

On a second note, through careful consideration I have concluded I'm approaching this problem incorrectly.

The entire assembly works until it doesn't and all points of failure have already been replaced. (New spring plate, etc) without impact.

I have not troubleshooted the actual condition of failure leading me to believe I have brain damage.

The fan has never turned on since I've had the bike.
The over temp light has never come on either.
The clutch stops being a problem when it stops being hot.

I know what I have to do, I'll post my findings when I fix it.

Laitch · « **Reply #48 on:** April 29, 2025, 10:45:02 AM »

Quote from: Cinderedblock on April 29, 2025, 10:29:26 AM

I have not troubleshooted the actual condition of failure leading me to believe I have brain damage. . . . I know what I have to do, I'll post my findings when I fix it.

If you believe you have brain damage, maybe it would be wise to present your plan to the group before you have mechanical damage to accompany it.

Cinderedblock · « **Reply #49 on:** April 29, 2025, 10:10:38 PM »

I'm going to jump the relay for the fan and the light to ensure both work then begin checking the thermostat. I haven't even inspected the plug for the temperature sensor yet.

I've been told A3 to 15 on the fan relay and A2 to 31 for the light.

I'm still going to review the electric diagram in the manuals and carefully inspect the relay box first. There are modifications already so I need to map them out to know what I'm working with (an external starter relay has been installed drilled into the rear fender behind the battery).

If all looks good, I'm going to flush the coolant because I don't know when it was last done.

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Author Topic: 1995 K75 Rehab after 32K miles (Read 51750 times)