Inaccurate gas warning light

[White Dog]

In the few months I've been on this forum, I remember a post on how to change something inside the gas tank to delay or speed up when the low gas warning light comes on.  Mine seems to be about 50 miles early.  I've calculated mpg almost every fill up and I should be able to go 180-200 miles before the light comes on.  Yeah, I know.  I can leave it alone and just go by the odo but I am curious to know how to correct this annoyance.  have not been able to find the write up.  Can someone point me to it?

[jaxon]

One suggestion was light bending the float rod down a bit.

[Laitch]

. . .  I remember a post on how to change something inside the gas tank to delay or speed up when the low gas warning light comes on. . . . Can someone point me to it?

Is this it, White Dog?

[White Dog]

Yep.  That's the one.  It was "over my head" when I first read it and it still is.  Note there are no instructions for actual removal of the sending unit from within the gas tank.  I also recall reading somewhere how to remove the sending unit but could not find it, either.  Me thinks I will just rely on the odometer reading and try to ignore the low gas yellow light glaring at me.  The tank is listed as 5.2 gallon capacity.  Using 4.5 gallons as reference divided by a conservative 40 mpg, I should be able to travel 180 miles before getting concerned about refilling the tank.

One thing I failed to mention is last night, the light came on at 132.5 miles but went off at 132.7 miles, so that tells me I cannot depend on the light.  I did fill up--took 2.85 gallons.  Of the 3 cycles I own, the BMW is the only one without a gauge to view and with an inconsistent low gas light, I'm thinking a piece of black tape over the light is an easy fix.

[rbm]

There are four screws on the bottom of the tank that holds the fuel sender in place.  Remove those screws and the sender will be able to come out the filler cap opening (once the filler cap is removed; four screws there also).

Once you have it out, check that the float bulb is still intact.  Your inconsistent readings might be due to the bulb having a hole in it that is allowing gas to leak in.  I'm pretty sure you should be able to find a substitute bulb if your's has gone south.

The adjuster wheel is hidden but searching under the actuator arm will soon reveal it to you.

[K1300S]

Yep.  That's the one.  It was "over my head" when I first read it and it still is.  Note there are no instructions for actual removal of the sending unit from within the gas tank.  I also recall reading somewhere how to remove the sending unit but could not find it, either.  Me thinks I will just rely on the odometer reading and try to ignore the low gas yellow light glaring at me.  The tank is listed as 5.2 gallon capacity.  Using 4.5 gallons as reference divided by a conservative 40 mpg, I should be able to travel 180 miles before getting concerned about refilling the tank.

One thing I failed to mention is last night, the light came on at 132.5 miles but went off at 132.7 miles, so that tells me I cannot depend on the light.  I did fill up--took 2.85 gallons.  Of the 3 cycles I own, the BMW is the only one without a gauge to view and with an inconsistent low gas light, I'm thinking a piece of black tape over the light is an easy fix.

Ahhh....0.2 miles is not inconsistent.  Gas is a liquid.  It moves.  The level changes with lean, acceleration and decel. The sensor is a float.   It moves with the level.   It is reliable.

You dont need to take anything apart to adjust.  Just reach in and bend the arm.

[K1300S]

Just because the tank says 5.2 does not mean it is all usable.   The fuel pump will loose suction long before 5 gal are used.

If you manage to use 4.5 gallons,  you had better be sitting in front of a gas pump refilling. ...

[White Dog]

Ahhh....0.2 miles is not inconsistent.  Gas is a liquid.  It moves.  The level changes with lean, acceleration and decel. The sensor is a float.   It moves with the level.   It is reliable.

You dont need to take anything apart to adjust.  Just reach in and bend the arm.

So you agree that the arm should be bent down?  This would lower the float, resulting in the light not coming on until there is less gas in the tank?

[Martin]

You don't have to bend the arm to adjust the float arm. There is a toothed wheel which you lever around with a small screwdriver.
Regards Martin.

[Inge K.]

There are four screws on the bottom of the tank that holds the fuel sender in place.  Remove those screws and the sender will be able to come out the filler cap opening

Impossible....as the mounting plate is mounted on the outside of the bottom of the tank, and is is much
bigger than the hole in the bottom of the tank.
The pot.meter, arm and float have to be pulled out through the bottom hole.

[rbm]

You're right inge.  It's been a few years since I pulled the sensor from my tank.  Poor memory.

[Mwilson904]

I have mine apart, here's a pic maybe it will help you send where to bend it.

[White Dog]

Thanks for posting the pic.  I'm guessing the longer rod which has the bulb on the end should be bent down as it lays in the pic?

If I have to remove the unit in order to bend the rod, I might as well do what several have mentioned and turn the wheel counter clockwise to lower the bulb. 

In either case, I currently have a full tank of gas and can't do anything until I run the tank almost dry.

[Mwilson904]

***Yes (with disclaimer)  If you plan to leave it in the tank and bend it, I would remove the 4 screws on the gas cap base and remove it, this allows you to get your hand in the tank, then you can feel the rod and lift it up and down (similar to the movement of gas) allowing you to figure which direction it rotates, then bend the rod between the bulb and the first bend in the rod.

***I've owned a BMW bike for about 1 week and it does not run therefore you may want to get a second opinion  :hehehe

[Martin]

Use the wheel, that's what it is for. :nono If you use the force you will go to the Dark side.

[champ7fc]

Anytime I read the posts on this forum regarding fuel quantity indicators I have to smile. I have been a pilot for 45 years and the last gauge any pilot ever trusts is his fuel gauge. This applies to my motorcycles. The K75S I own has a gauge, I use it for reference only. When I leave on a ride I check my fuel visually and reset my trip meter to 0. I know my estimated range on the fuel visible in the tank and when I have reached the half way point I look for fuel. Seems to me alot of time and effort is expended on a rather useless indicator. Just my two cents worth. Craig

[Mwilson904]

Listen to Martin and/or Craig, with mine in hand I don't see a screw (may have deteriorated away)
I just dry fitted it back in the tank to see how it sits, If it doesn't read right when I'm done, a visual is always best.

[The Dude]

I know my estimated range on the fuel visible in the tank and when I have reached the half way point I look for fuel. Seems to me alot of time and effort is expended on a rather useless indicator. Just my two cents worth. Craig

+1
Bricks are too heavy to push far.Ive never run out....

[Laitch]

Listen to Martin and/or Craig, with mine in hand I don't see a screw (may have deteriorated away)

To which screw are you referring, Mwilson? Or is it the toothed wheel you can't find?

[White Dog]

Listen to Martin and/or Craig, with mine in hand I don't see a screw (may have deteriorated away)
I just dry fitted it back in the tank to see how it sits, If it doesn't read right when I'm done, a visual is always best.

From an  earlier post above.
"The adjuster wheel is hidden but searching under the actuator arm will soon reveal it to you."

I presume if you turn this adjuster wheel, you should see the bulb rise or fall.  If it falls, the indicator light would not come on as quickly.  I personally do not know how much the adjuster wheel should be turned to delay the warning light coming on.  The Clymer manual states how to R/R the sending unit but NOT how to change the wheel setting (which the book says the light comes on with 1.3 gallons left.  Adjustment of the wheel (and pictures) is in the  first post by Laitch.  Bending the rod seems risky, as the book and these guys say "Don't do it."

[Mwilson904]

Laitch, Sorry, I missed the link earlier showing The disassembly and refurbishing of the unit.  Now I see it, looks like a great project after I get this thing running but take it back apart if I decide to do a repaint.
For now, I'll just clean it up and start to get this thing back together. 
Thanks!

[Martin]

I chased up a picture of the toothed wheel. :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.

[kennybobby]

From an  earlier post above.
"The adjuster wheel is hidden but searching under the actuator arm will soon reveal it to you."

I presume if you turn this adjuster wheel, you should see the bulb rise or fall.

No the bulb doesn't move--the adjuster just moves the electrical contacts inside the sensor that signals 4L remaining.

[White Dog]

No the bulb doesn't move--the adjuster just moves the electrical contacts inside the sensor that signals 4L remaining.

How many teeth should be moved to delay the light from coming on at 1.3 gallons left? My light comes on with 2.3 gallons still in tank. That would be about 40 miles on my cycle.

[Chaos]

AAAAAARHG!!!  23 post to bend a stupid rod.  (or turn Martin's screw)  Bend it, screw it, ride it!