New Zealand 1984 K100 Naked and wanting

[Angus Macgyver]

The Velcro gloves are removed, the sheep are safe as they say down here in New Zealand.
Winter project time.

1984 K100 factory naked
Bike arrived on truck from down the line, previous owner said he hadn't used it for some time.
A quick ride round the block a few times, ran fine, then into the garage to be reborn.

History from what I gathered during pull down.
Previous owners were all cheap skates.
Some of the most horrendous DIY repairs I've ever seen. Plastic drain pipe glued into rubber boot splits, wires twisted together unsoldered, flogged out fork seals, sealant piled up to replace missing grommets, Harley Davidson handle bars ground down to fit the 22mm hand switches.
Plastics cracked on " pooh'ed up " repairs - ( pooh we call bog, or automotive panel repair  filler)
Boat screws !!!!!! - I hate boat screws !!!!!!

I will say, the bike grew on me for its simplicity ( barring the cornacopia of electrical du dakkiz )
Very easy to pull down, ( unlike a Widow Maker Suzuki TL1000 ) room to actually swing a spanner ( unlike Japanese rice rockets ) and built sturdy, ( unlike Chinese dirt bikes .... )
Not a single nut rounded, not a single snapped bolt, even though they looked like they had never been touched before.....
No owners manual, just this forum and I had the bike completely stripped down to the engine in a day.
Thankfully my IPads wireless connection stayed strong all the way down to the backyards garage.
Every query I had, already discussed here with replies and solutions - fantastic !!!!

Wire loom cleaned up ( broke wire on fuel level sender only issue I came across )
I will be using factory instruments but seated lower and behind a street fighter front fairing
Replaced key ignition power wire ( looked bit melted from previous issue when frame rubbed through on steering head )
Engine booked in for soda blasting
Wheels were ok ( previous owner must have powder coated recently )
Transmission pulled , clutch and drive splines lubed ( no leaks yay)
Front forks rebuilt ( again easily done, no dramas, previous owner has installed spring kit )
Rear suspension looks sad, will hunt for replacement

Bike came with a Motad muffler but I'll use a 4:1 and a Yoshimura muffler
Rest is all usual surgery items
New steering head bearings
New wheel bearings
New fork seals
Clip ons
LED instrument upgrade
LED turn signals
50A alternator upgrade
Starter motor rebuilt
Twin headlight
Front fairing
Adjustable fuel pressure
MAFS big pod filter modification
Paul Smart Ducati tail unit
Braided brake lines
New radiator hoses
New fuel line
New breather hose
All new stainless hose clips
New manifolds
New swingarm boot
New clutch arm boot
Fuel rail cover ( hides that fugly fuel rail, wires and clutter )
Gen3 fuel injectors ( 4 spray holes )
Cut foot peg mounts ( no rear sets, NZ laws now too strict )
Shorten front wheel guard
Cut and shorten original rear wheel guard
Replace missing rubber grommets
Cut frame and tank side cover lugs
I will use the radiator and tank cover plastics ( cause these are rare as hens teeth ) hides that empty space when folks don't have these " rare as hens teeth " - cough cough...scored a second set..cough cough.

Some pics of the usual suspects.
 

[The Dude]

No fecking rearsets!What about forward sets?
New Zealand laws now too strict.....Which one of them told you that?
I'll have to have a quite word with "them".
Let me know please.Use code' they're probably monitoring... now. :finger:

[Angus Macgyver]

No fecking rearsets!What about forward sets?
New Zealand laws now too strict.....Which one of them told you that?
I'll have to have a quite word with "them".
Let me know please.Use code' they're probably monitoring... now. :finger:

Yip.
The low volume motorcycle certifier here in Auckland , Alex Gee is his name. He's a good guy, works very closely with bike shops and LTNZ.
So many rules now.
Even X raying welds on clip ons .....
No longer just low volume once off, it's for wof now so dot on indicator lenses headlights.
Any alterations to seat, handling, brakes requires low volume cert ....!!!!
Up to the builder if you follow the law.
I run bike business...so I have to for resale.

[The Dude]

Bummer!....

Yip.
Up to the builder if you follow the law.

Oh well, that's allright then.....er, thanks.

[Angus Macgyver]

Soda blasting.
Sent 32 years of muck away in the wind 😄
Once home, a quick wash down with water to neutralise the Ph level, cloth dry then fine spray of oil, then rub down with a happy ending....😂🎉🎉

More parts arrived at work from the UK, so assembly will can soon start on the engine.
I was going to use engine aluminium paint, but I like the raw finish the soda blasting produced.
Some corrosion and staining from past oil leaks will be hand polished out.

[Angus Macgyver]

Boxes arrived at work, so skived off early and heading home to the cave.
Really not liking those factory manifold clamps, I will try to locate screw in adjusters.
Air box turned around and I will have the MAF sensor on left side or bike with large air pod ( purely cosmetic, can't see any performance gain though it does really open up the right side for viewing the engine.
Re tap crank breather connection or run a catch tank.
I made an alloy catch tank for my 150cc bucket racer, yes added weight and not really useful unless racing, but im fond of bling.

[Angus Macgyver]

Rebuild the starter motor today.
Bit of a pain, the rebuild kit from eBay , the top post and brush was different than original, so I had to fluff around a bit swapping that bush over.
Bit of 1000 wet and dry clean up the contact points, bearing, seals, O rings.
Great thing about 32 years of caked on oil.... It protects the metal underneath.
Quick scrub N rub almost like new.

[The Dude]

[quote author=Angus Macgyver link=topic=8503.msg65420#msg65420 date=1466572528
Air box turned around and I will have the MAF sensor on left side or bike with large air pod ( purely cosmetic, can't see any performance gain though it does really open up the right side for viewing the engine.
Re tap crank breather connection or run a catch tank.
I made an alloy catch tank for my 150cc bucket racer, yes added weight and not really useful unless racing, but im fond of bling.

[/quote]

What fun putting the air box on wrong.I love idiocy,when it's well thought through.
I,also,love bling as long as I don't have it.Your beautiful aluminium oil catch tank beats my effort,which I found lying in the ditch one day when I overfilled the sump oil on the Guzzi and found out the hard way.Works well...

[Angus Macgyver]

[quote author=Angus Macgyver link=topic=8503.msg65420#msg65420 date=1466572528
Air box turned around and I will have the MAF sensor on left side or bike with large air pod ( purely cosmetic, can't see any performance gain though it does really open up the right side for viewing the engine.
Re tap crank breather connection or run a catch tank.
I made an alloy catch tank for my 150cc bucket racer, yes added weight and not really useful unless racing, but im fond of bling.



What fun putting the air box on wrong.I love idiocy,when it's well thought through.
I,also,love bling as long as I don't have it.Your beautiful aluminium oil catch tank beats my effort,which I found lying in the ditch one day when I overfilled the sump oil on the Guzzi and found out the hard way.Works well...

MAF sensor box gone, I like the pod filter look.
Mounting right side = hot engine air.
Mounting left side = cold air
There is no wrong if it fits 😄👍
There is only custom coolness points

Lol😄 Don't get me started on Motoguzzi's.....
Guzzi the Italian Harley Davidson.
Glad to see they finally designed a 4 valve/cylinder engine
That starter motor though.... 😄 Need an engine lifter to get it out.
I had the 1100 Sport
One clutch change on a Guzzi was enough to put me off for life.

[Angus Macgyver]

It was just meant to be 😄
Will get custom air box connection made from 70mm to 60mm right angle.
Plug connection is in a good water proof position
Question is, will a fully clamped air box handle a bouncing MAF sensor off the side, even with an internal mount plate?
One can only but try.
Update:
Air box requires very little modification.
Easily done with a heat gun and 22mm bar ( old handle bar )

The aim is to heat the airbox edge that the throttle cable guide sits under and press the plastic inwards.
You are looking to see the plastic go glossy, this is the correct heat without damaging the plastic.
Apply heavy pressure to your 22mm piece of bar and roll/Rock like a rolling pin.
This effect pushes the plastic inwards.

Remove the two closest manifold rubbers
30 seconds heat with a thin nozzle tip to direct airflow onto the work area
10 seconds of firm downward pressure, rolling then hold down on your bar till plastic cools a little ( this will stop the plastic memory bouncing back to its old shape)
I had to use two hands and get my whole body on top of it ........... So don't be shy with the pressure
Rinse and repeat

Other ways to gain a few mm clearance:
Grind off the outer edge of the cable guide top and corners will gain 2mm
Change the angle of the cable guide by banging flat and re bending slightly.
Airbox was reshaped within 40 minutes
Don't rush it, take your time, the plastic is quite thick and does require a good bit of firm rolling/pressing

Light sand to flatten rough edges and repaint with truck seal/ bumper paint

( manifold edge was already creased from previous owners rough figment of manifolds ) The heat will not damage the manifolds because your nozzle tip keeps the heat within a very small area .

[The Dude]

Yeh,I know,but I just lurve ma Guzz....mine's a pert little 850 'had it for thirty loyal years,the clutch is bullet proof (on them),so's the cranking motor,yes that's what I call it and the little tart is a hard arsed blast but,man,is it hard on my arse?

Now, back to reality.Your maf sensor will be fine hanging out there.It's design has an integral air damper. Nothing like syrupy cool,air for better mass flow through the engine upping the thermodynamic efficiency.  :deal: 'Noticed how well they run when your wet n cold?

I'm keeping my brick standard as I view her as the good ol' missus,she's there to keep me in line,mostly.
All the best.

[Angus Macgyver]

Yeh,I know,but I just lurve ma Guzz....mine's a pert little 850 'had it for thirty loyal years,the clutch is bullet proof (on them),so's the cranking motor,yes that's what I call it and the little tart is a hard arsed blast but,man,is it hard on my arse?

Now, back to reality.Your maf sensor will be fine hanging out there.It's design has an integral air damper. Nothing like syrupy cool,air for better mass flow through the engine upping the thermodynamic efficiency.  :deal: 'Noticed how well they run when your wet n cold?

I'm keeping my brick standard as I view her as the good ol' missus,she's there to keep me in line,mostly.
All the best.

My other bricks stock.
Rode my Guzzi back from Christchurch to Auckland 2 days hard ride and I mean hard.
It's almost like Guzzi used a 4x2 and covered it with Rhino skin for softness. I was literally crow bared off the bike by my dad I was so stiff, everything aching, I think my wrists go left back in Wellington.
Awesome sound though, and when you crack the throttle at the lights, the whole bike lurches sideways 😄

[Angus Macgyver]

Rebuild/repair gear position sensor.
# Silicon/sealer of your choosing
# Cheap Chinese starter solinoid cover ( those ones that pit bikes use )

Scrape old cracked top and old sealer out.
Re coat with new sealer
When dry, trim off the covers overhang with a razor blade, fit made in Vachina rubber cover, fits like a glove.

[Angus Macgyver]

Replaced original black coil units with red cap versions from a later model
Replaced awful factory throttle body screws for stainless cap screws
50A alternator quick wire brush, ordered new set of rubber drive cushions.
Scored a very BMW cafe racer radiator overflow bottle 😄
Tidied up my loom again, much happier

[Angus Macgyver]

Airtech Paul Smart Ducati street race tail unit arrived today.
You pay for what you get.
Beautifully made carbon fibre reinforced piece.
There was a 4 week waiting list but I am very happy with the shape.
The overhang works well with the K frame, giving a false appearance of a straight frame from tank to seat.
The tail scallops compliment the tanks, as does the width
There is a huge rear compartment that can house all the electrics and a Lythium battery..
370mm at the widest edge
620mm long
Seat pad area 200mmx300mm triangle.
( Battery in photo is just to hold seat unit down on frame until I hoop the rear and build the electrics tray )

Now the hard process of clearing my work bench 😄 /lol who am I kidding ( arm sweeps it aside )

[jakgieger]

Enjoying the thread! You are obviously living up to the name https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacGyver.

[Angus Macgyver]

Haha nice.
The true Mac would have fashioned his own tail piece out of tin foil and chewing gum.
The previous owner used up all the chewing gum on the hall sensor cover  :yow
( which has now been lovingly restored with the correct cork gasket and D rubber gaskets )

[The Dude]

Looking gooood!
 

[SJM1975]

That seat unit is a thing of beauty .. I wish I'd have seen it before I bought mine

[jjs1234]

Definitely pretty, I hope the foam seat is good and thick.  :2thumbup:

[Angus Macgyver]

Exhaust collector update.

Well the wind and rain just won't stop, after 5 days away on business, I return to a small mountain of postal boxes and bike parts for the K100.
After returning the New Zealand made collector due to poor welding/grinding ( please see photos )
I used the refunded money to purchase another from overseas ( worked out about same price including shipping ) from the Cafe4racer website, to allow fitting of the 50mm Yoshimura sports muffler.

Compared side by side, I highly recommend the Cafe4racer one. A very good price, beautifully made.
Can't go wrong with a well made competitively priced part. Thanks Cafe4racer

First the NZ made one..... :mbird
Second the Cafe4racer made one  :2thumbup:

[The Dude]

Sad to see crap stainless fabrication from a Kiwi crowd.
Professionally,I used to use Classic Sheet metals in Henderson, Auckland,who were very capable and particular....It wasn't from them,was it?

[Angus Macgyver]

Sad to see crap stainless fabrication from a Kiwi crowd.
Professionally,I used to use Classic Sheet metals in Henderson, Auckland,who were very capable and particular....It wasn't from them,was it?

No not that crowd.
I am not one to name names, but honestly, very poor workmanship.
Maybe the guy was just having a bad day?
The thing that gets me the most, was that he actually had the cheek to send it.
Like a factory second fished out of the rubbish bin.
If the milks smells sour, I ain't the kind of pussy to drink it  :neener:

[Angus Macgyver]

New rubber dampers for 50A alternator.

[Angus Macgyver]

Installed Genssi type S adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
This regulator is well priced at around $30-$40, well made and has high ranked reviews.
With the large diaphragm , the unit is more than capable of keeping up with anything the K will ever hope to offer.
Very easy adjustment function but more importantly, with the engine open for viewing, bystanders get to gaze in wonderment at your oil filled glass gauge.  :clap:
* Regulator can be mounted at any angle, the standard bracket is slightly too low for good hose clearance, though turning on an angle allows good clearance.
You could make up a new bracket if the vertical placement looks more appealing....
* Fuel resistant pipe thread sealant paste is a must use, also Loctite on the small mount screws that came with the kit.