Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180436 times)

mw074 · « **Reply #150 on:** June 16, 2016, 11:35:36 AM »

No. With the swingarm hanging down it can cut the boot on the trans side of the swingarm. Take Billday's advise. Support the swingarm.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #151 on:** June 18, 2016, 08:48:56 PM »

Today:

Laitch · « **Reply #152 on:** June 18, 2016, 09:35:31 PM »

It's going to be a beautiful thing, jjs!

jjs1234 · « **Reply #153 on:** June 19, 2016, 02:00:38 AM »

Thanks Laitch, more to come!

Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk

jjs1234 · « **Reply #154 on:** June 19, 2016, 02:01:31 PM »

Anyone know where I can find a "how to" or solid-state pre-configured board to run the Rear Side Markers as Brake lights?"

So that when I am braking it will also function as a turn signal? (my Crown-Vic does this already)

Search isnt helping me: 0 Results

jjs1234 · « **Reply #155 on:** June 19, 2016, 09:36:13 PM »

Also just noticed this. Near there connector for the 1# cylinder injector plug....

What was connected?

jjs1234 · « **Reply #156 on:** June 19, 2016, 10:04:54 PM »

Never mind durr... I cut it off. It's that redundant sensor...

jjs1234 · « **Reply #157 on:** June 21, 2016, 02:18:48 AM »

jjs1234 · « **Reply #158 on:** June 24, 2016, 12:14:23 AM »

I got the rest of my powdercoat pieces today. That's everything unless I want to add something else.

I have a slight dilemma as far as colors go however, the cowl can only be painted with regular paint. It does not match anything that the powdercoat has done thus far.

Valve covers, front rotors and the both rims were completed.

Did not include a picture of the rims until tires are put on.

Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk

jjs1234 · « **Reply #159 on:** June 26, 2016, 09:43:41 PM »

jjs1234 · « **Reply #160 on:** June 28, 2016, 03:24:32 PM »

I'd like to know how I should go about tightening the KNIRLED NUT and the other NUT on the triple trees.

Mostly curious if the Knirled nut should be hand tightend?

#3 #4 #7

The Dude · « **Reply #161 on:** June 28, 2016, 03:41:16 PM »

I'm fairly sure....that the knurled nut is knurled for hand gripping.When I do up stearing head bearings I know it is a ballance between not enough and too much.With clean undamaged threads,I use several hand gripping tightening and loosening cycles to seat the two bearings and just guess a bit of preload.This is really just a feely thing,in my case,but not too much.Then,I check the play in the forks by pulling them back and forward,listening for any movement in the stearing head.A second pair of hands is usful as you can also use your fingers to sense any movement also but getting good help is often difficult.The lock nut just nips up to prevent any creep of the knurled nut and needs to be tightend without disturbing the knurled nut position....too much.After a hundred miles or so recheck for play in the stearing head and also how freely the stearing swings over.This works for me....

Martin · « **Reply #162 on:** June 28, 2016, 04:22:08 PM »

When I replaced my bearings on setting them up I found I couldn't get enough grip on the knurled nut. I ended up using a heavy duty strap wrench. The strap looks like it is made of reinforced canvas, not the rubber strap material.
C.heers Martin.

rbm · « **Reply #163 on:** June 28, 2016, 06:35:03 PM »

The knurled nut (6) is for adjusting bearing play, the stop screw (5) is for applying correct bearing preload, and the hex nut (4) is for locking the adjustment. Steering bearing adjustment is an iterative process. Adjust 6 until all play is removed from the stem. Tighten 5 to recommended torque (74Nm). Test the steering to make sure the preload is correct by centering the triple tree then seeing if the steering flops smoothly to either side when nudged. If it flops too fast or too slowly, the preload is incorrect. Readjust. When preload is correct, lock the stop screw in place with the hex nut (4) by tightening to recommended torque (45Nm).

Elipten · « **Reply #164 on:** June 28, 2016, 06:45:04 PM »

JO could we move these last post to an area for reference under head bearing adjustment?

jjs1234 · « **Reply #165 on:** June 28, 2016, 07:01:56 PM »

How about you make my thread a sticky!! :2thumbup: :eek:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #166 on:** June 28, 2016, 08:36:39 PM »

Could use some other help here. One of the bearings on the front wheel slides in. I removed both of them to get powder coated. Now that I have new ones the one on the right side goes right in without hammering it.

I'm going to guess this is a huge issue? Is it possible to remedy this?

Is this supposed to keep it in place?

Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk

Laitch · « **Reply #167 on:** June 28, 2016, 09:15:40 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on June 28, 2016, 08:36:39 PM

Now that I have new ones the one on the right side goes right in without hammering it.
I'm going to guess this is a huge issue? Is it possible to remedy this?

How's the left side assembly going?

jjs1234 · « **Reply #168 on:** June 28, 2016, 09:20:30 PM »

There is more resistance on that side. I'm running to AutoZone to pick up a bearing installer so I can install it correctly. It also has a c clip I think it's called or snap ring so it couldn't come out. The right side does not have a snap ring however.

I have some really powerful foxy I was thinking about Kama either using it to keep the bearing inside or using a small amount to make up any Clarence and then install the bearing

Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk

Laitch · « **Reply #169 on:** June 28, 2016, 09:33:07 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on June 28, 2016, 09:20:30 PM

There is more resistance on that side. I have some really powerful foxy I was thinking about Kama either using it to keep the bearing inside or using a small amount to make up any Clarence and then install the bearing

Are you certain you have the correct bearings and that you've got the bearings on the correct sides? These bearing should be press-fit and generally take more finesse than just "hammering" on them. It might be time for me to turn in because I can't seem to translate your other sentence that I've quoted here.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #170 on:** June 28, 2016, 09:39:08 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on June 28, 2016, 09:33:07 PM

Are you certain have the correct bearing and that you've got the bearings on the correct sides? These bearing should be press-fit and generally take more finesse than just "hammering" on them. It might be time for me to turn in because I can't seem to translate your other sentence that I've quoted here.

Apologies. Voice to text sucks when driving.

Absolutely sure it's the correct size.

I meant epoxy. I have two options when it comes to that. I could either epoxy it in place or use some epoxy and then sand it down a little bit so that it makes up the Lost clearance.

If this sounds really shady like nobody's ever done this before and please let me know.

And it honestly could have been because the inside where the bearing sits was sandblasted.

The Dude · « **Reply #171 on:** June 28, 2016, 10:05:58 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on June 28, 2016, 09:33:07 PM

It might be time for me to turn in because I can't seem to translate your other sentence that I've quoted here.

My dyslexia kicked in and I understood seemlessly....don't use apoplexy.That sort of seizure,you don't want.
:yow
If the loose bearing is not moving radially in its housing then a liquid bearing fixer can solve this issue.You don't need a bearing installer kit you need a suitable proprietry bearing fixer .Ask at your auto store.Loctite is a brand I have used.Make sure the two surfaces are clean etc.Then keep an eye on it occasionally.All that can happen is that the bearing outer race may spin making the clearance bigger if the special glue fails.

Laitch · « **Reply #172 on:** June 28, 2016, 10:31:43 PM »

Quote from: The Dude on June 28, 2016, 10:05:58 PM

My dyslexia kicked in and I understood seemlessly.

Well, Dude and jjs, thanks for the clarity. I understood the part about Clarence because back in 1979 I beat him at twelve games of eight ball in the Leisure Lounge in Leisure City, Florida then he got uptight after paying for 12 shots of Mount Gay. I thought that was all in the past though.

Anyway, it's good to know that you have the right sizes, jjs. I was just wondering if you're trying to install them on the right sides. It still sounds a little sketchy. This isn't a Lada hub being assembled, but The Dude seems to have a preternatural understanding about this so everything must be ok.

The Dude · « **Reply #173 on:** June 28, 2016, 10:53:57 PM »

[quote author=Laitch link=topic=8176.msg65694#msg65694 date=1467167503

This isn't a Lada hub being assembled, but The Dude seems to have a preternatural understanding about this so everything must be ok.

[/quote]
Hmmmm....the important bit is to keep checking that wheel.Funny wheel bearing sizes are beyond my field of experience.
Disclaimer.The Dude is a Bright,he can only manage a naturalistic world view.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #174 on:** June 28, 2016, 10:58:12 PM »

I appreciate all the fast and quick replies. I didn't see anything in AutoZone in Nevada no less that had a bearing fixer or something along that line.

I bought something Cold Steel weld made by Permatex. I don't believe you can buy this in California.

Anyway my plan is to mix a little bit and put it where the bearing will sit and then use a razor blade to smooth it out all the way around.

Then I'll let it fully cure and then put in the bearing hopefully that will take up all the clearance that is making it move around.

But I'm really thinking that the sand blast might have taken up just a teeny bit of clearance that I would have needed to make it snug.

Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-L09 using Tapatalk

News:

Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180436 times)