Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180422 times)

jjs1234 · « **Reply #75 on:** May 23, 2016, 08:26:05 PM »

My powder coater was curious what type of metal the K 1100 and R 1100 rims are? He let me know that previous builds he had destroyed some BMW rims because the rims had some sort of powder coat put on from the factory.

Since the metal is potentially soft the blasting process destroyed the rims.

He recommended that I use aircraft paint remover which is highly toxic if this happens to be the case.

Would any of you know what kind of metal are the rims are made of and if there's any sort of clear coat powder or just regular paint on them?

Also should get a whole bunch of parts back at the end of this week, that are flat black powder coated. Then I can continue on with the build. Currently I am at a standstill because I have no parts to assemble.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #76 on:** May 24, 2016, 10:59:43 AM »

Also with the above questions, does anyone know what these connectors go to? I did not label them...

ALSO took off the timing cover, check for any wear. The chain looks good, no slack. I was thinking of replacing... but maybe next winter...

I was going to cut this off... any objections?

Laitch · « **Reply #77 on:** May 24, 2016, 11:26:58 AM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 24, 2016, 10:59:43 AM

Also with the above questions, does anyone know what these connectors go to? I did not label them...

Try to identify them by their colors using a wiring diagram of your bike.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #78 on:** May 24, 2016, 11:39:30 AM »

One might be a brake light. But as far as the 3 prong, I couldn't find any connectors that matched it...

Will take a look at a wiring diagram I have

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rbm · « **Reply #79 on:** May 24, 2016, 06:45:32 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 24, 2016, 10:59:43 AM

Also with the above questions, does anyone know what these connectors go to? I did not label them...

^^^^ Clutch switch

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 24, 2016, 10:59:43 AM

^^^ Choke switch

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 24, 2016, 10:59:43 AM

^^^^^ Don't know. :dunno

jjs1234 · « **Reply #80 on:** May 24, 2016, 08:18:52 PM »

Thanks rbm!!!! 😃😃

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TrueAce · « **Reply #81 on:** May 24, 2016, 10:33:43 PM »

That appears to be the "optional equipment" plug unattached, an extra connector loose in the relay box.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #82 on:** May 25, 2016, 02:07:27 AM »

Their is also a circular one that went to the radio that is disconnected. Wonder if I can use either with heated grips later...

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jjs1234 · « **Reply #83 on:** May 27, 2016, 12:09:54 PM »

Yesterday... Prepping for powder coat!

Also I was able to get the bearings off triple trees:

Polished my rotors:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #84 on:** May 27, 2016, 05:24:45 PM »

$680 later 3/4of it is finished...

jjs1234 · « **Reply #85 on:** May 28, 2016, 12:20:37 AM »

And so the build OFFICIALLY commences:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #86 on:** May 28, 2016, 01:48:07 AM »

Can anyone confirm torque specs for those 4 main bolts that cover the output shaft? Clymer says 6-7ft lbs. Seems a bit weak?

jjs1234 · « **Reply #87 on:** May 28, 2016, 02:16:00 AM »

Never mind...

All torqued to that. I noticed some had thread locker. Since the likelihood of taking this off was rare... I added a smidgen

jjs1234 · « **Reply #88 on:** May 28, 2016, 12:12:41 PM »

jjs1234 · « **Reply #89 on:** May 30, 2016, 02:29:14 AM »

Got to my goal today 😃 super excited!

jjs1234 · « **Reply #90 on:** June 01, 2016, 09:57:40 PM »

Does this look right? I see a gap... sorta...
Both are pretty much tightened all the way

Vespa no more · « **Reply #91 on:** June 02, 2016, 02:22:47 AM »

Last pic LHS rubber is cracked - probably at the end of its life. New one might be thicker and hopefully take up the slack.

Well done on the effort.

Why don't you spend a day clearing the garage into DIY floor to ceiling shelving. I did this in the back of my garage: 2" X 4"s (or similar) for frame (connected the verticals to the exposed floor joists) and used chip board flooring for shelves (we call it "yellow tongue" in Aust). Went nuts with hex screws. Little bit of trimming with circular saw. Pleased with the effort. Took about 1 day all up. Completely full up now unfortunately.

Then you'll have space for another K bike project!

"Can never have too much space" Shed lore 101.

Project is looking good

Guy

bocutter Ed · « **Reply #92 on:** June 02, 2016, 07:45:02 AM »

Quote from: Vespa no more on June 02, 2016, 02:22:47 AM

"Can never have too much space" Shed lore 101.

Corollary to that is the axiom " 'Stuff' accumulates to fill the available space"

jenkinskg · « **Reply #93 on:** June 02, 2016, 10:08:31 AM »

Go waterless, evans colant, have it in k1200 and k75
never rusts, never needs changing and no pressure, no hoses bust boils at 375 deg F

jjs1234 · « **Reply #94 on:** June 02, 2016, 10:08:01 PM »

I Like the waterless idea. I'm guessing it never corrodes or breaks down??

Anyway I got more stuff :)

The Rim looks practically brand new. However I'm going to have it sandblasted and powder-coated. I thought that I may be able to use the tire that came with it so I bought a new matching Metzeler Roadtec Z6. However the tire age I believe seems to be manufactured in January of 2010. (Dot code 0410) so I'll probably buy a new one to be safe.

I got a lot back from the powder coater including the gearbox. Which now I can reassemble, attach, then add all the good bits to make this bike probably 60% finished.

One of the pains however was the paint I used to paint the plastics. I didn't get around to stripping them until now. It's a pain and I haven't started painting yet!

The Dude · « **Reply #95 on:** June 03, 2016, 01:38:45 AM »

Looking good except the last image.
I suspect the snake oil is just glycol.A good antifreez /water mix,on a well designed coolant system, goes well esp.with the Brick internals,for sure.Water has a very high heat capacity,Glycol,not so much.
If the tyre looks OK I would ride them,carefully,as you will,to begin with..but I'm a cheaparse.

Patience and care,now,,,, will be the virtues needed for this Brick.The generous make over,you have started is only as good as its potential bullet proof reliability.
All the best.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #96 on:** June 03, 2016, 01:38:56 AM »

Tonight:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #97 on:** June 04, 2016, 04:12:32 PM »

I'm upgrading to a k1100 seat. I have the old 85 seat.

Along with a new towel I believe I will need these parts, can anyone confirm?
It would be Parts 1 through 4.

If anyone wanted to look I'm looking on Max BMW K 1100 LT. It is diagram 52_1015.

I also see another diagram which is 52 1030 in the K 1100 LT it has slightly different parts.

beemrdon · « **Reply #98 on:** June 04, 2016, 08:12:48 PM »

Thanks for sharing all of your work with us.

When you are (reasonably) finished, will you please tally up a summary of all work done by you, parts replaced, contracted painting, etc and other itemized costs, plus the grand total of costs and time spent. if not too much of a bother.
It would really help others, myself included, who are considering buying an old K to rehab make an informed decision before jumping in as to what can be involved.

Awesome posts. :clap:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #99 on:** June 04, 2016, 10:45:09 PM »

If you paid t it yourself (engine/intermediate cover/gearbox/final drive/swingarm &other bits) you can probably save a lot. Probably worth buying one in good condition too cosmetically.

I've probably spend 1600 bucks just on Powder coating and Sandblasting.

I'll probably finish it this summer without painting the tank, cowl and front fender. However all of those need to be painted anyway but just to cut down on time and money. And the fact I'm buying a different seat and cowl that's another $400.

But all in all very enjoyable. You can keep your receipts and then justify to the insurance company why it's worth a lot more than market value. At least I can with my insurance.

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Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180422 times)