Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180326 times)

jjs1234 · « **Reply #50 on:** May 18, 2016, 11:16:44 AM »

Going to get the Pirelli Angel GT Tires, as they both fit with my rims.

Will post a ton more pics.

Also thinking of getting a new k1100 seat (its the OEM version seat), but I will need to swap everything too.

Currently:

-Ordered seals for k1100 forks
-Having rear rim rebent into correct shape.
-Getting rims powdercoated/along with engine components. I thought the VHT stuff was nice, but I wanted something more durable for the amount of time and work I am putting into this build.

The Dude · « **Reply #51 on:** May 18, 2016, 03:58:57 PM »

is there a way I can save them?

With tapered roller bearings they must be replaced as a set.That is the inner race is matched with the outer cone.Dont mix and match,if you intend to put miles on them.The(outer cone) solid ring will "brinnell" sooner,causing the stearing to notch,which will lead to a wandering weave at low speed..

johnny · « **Reply #52 on:** May 18, 2016, 04:20:39 PM »

greetings jjs1234...

the dude abides...

if you replace all that now... and do it right with oem stuff... its over... you wont have to mess with it again...

if you cheep out on it... you will be messing with it always...

j o

jjs1234 · « **Reply #53 on:** May 18, 2016, 04:26:11 PM »

Just to be clear:

The k100 and k1100 bearings are the same in both models. Same BMW part numbers.

Your saying that since the k1100 didn't come with races on the triple tree that I cannot use my k100 ones (which are the same in BMW #s)??

They feel very smooth together, no play.

Just to clarify you're saying that I should buy new ones altogether?

The Dude · « **Reply #54 on:** May 18, 2016, 04:40:30 PM »

Just to clarify you're saying that I should buy new ones altogether?

Yes.

The Dude · « **Reply #55 on:** May 18, 2016, 04:49:02 PM »

Most bearings on these bricks are standard issue.They can be got from a reputable bearing supplier for less than you know where.The overal dimensions or the Id number on the unit will describe the exact thing and translate to other branded bearings.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #56 on:** May 18, 2016, 04:58:09 PM »

Okay I'll take a look around and see what I can come up with.

One other question how bad is this?

Can this be polished out?

The Dude · « **Reply #57 on:** May 18, 2016, 05:16:39 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 18, 2016, 04:58:09 PM

One other question how bad is this?

Can this be polished out?

The small pits don't look too bad.
You have to consider the way the seals work so ,Polish (lightly with 600 or 800 wet n dry)off any HIGH spots.Best give it new seals too.
Accept that pockets of fork oil will reside in the pits,but as long as the surface is smooth the seals will survive many miles.
I put fork gaiters on mine mainly to keep crud off so the seals might last longer.Our road safety warrant officers are not allowed to look under them!
It turns out all you want is proper fork action and good damping.Oil leak concerns are about,How fast will these deteriorate,which will be related to how fast is it loosing the damping fluid?

Martin · « **Reply #58 on:** May 18, 2016, 05:22:45 PM »

There is heaps of information on how to repair fork pitting on the Net, super glue, JB weld are a few of the solutions.
Regards Martin

jjs1234 · « **Reply #59 on:** May 18, 2016, 08:37:27 PM »

Thanks for the replies and info!

I'll see if I can find an identical bearing for the steering Friday as well as a bearing for the front axle to

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jjs1234 · « **Reply #60 on:** May 19, 2016, 12:45:54 AM »

jjs1234 · « **Reply #61 on:** May 19, 2016, 06:20:00 PM »

So as previously mentioned, I have a bent rear rim. I had it bent back, but the person I paid didn't so it all the way for fear of it breaking?

When I asked him if it was okay he used the word "should-be fine."

Doesn't exactly invoke confidence.

Now based on previous pictures, imagine the bent lip to be a little less than what it was. It is noticable if you roll the rim.

Would you use it if it was yours?

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Laitch · « **Reply #62 on:** May 19, 2016, 07:00:58 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 19, 2016, 06:20:00 PM

. . . imagine the bent lip to be a little less than what it was. It is noticable if you roll the rim.
Would you use it if it was yours?

I don't want to imagine, jjjs. With your photo skills, you should show the rim. I'll tell you right now without seeing it, that if I could see a bend in the rim, I could probably feel an effect from it too, at some speed or another, eventually. I'd want it fixed "all the way" or would get another rim, but that's just because it takes me longer to heal from injuries at my age.

The Dude · « **Reply #63 on:** May 19, 2016, 07:02:11 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 19, 2016, 06:20:00 PM

Now based on previous pictures, imagine the bent lip to be a little less than what it was. It is noticable if you roll the rim.

Would you use it if it was yours

No!....If I Knew about it
Chances are the wheel won't ballance without heaps of counterweight,anyway.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #64 on:** May 19, 2016, 07:07:22 PM »

I'm sure the rim is fixable but I think I am going to get another r1100 rim.

Thank is for the advice Latch, thedude. Any idea how it might have got bent at the lip? I heard either overpressure or under pressure can cause this (if you hit something)...?

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Laitch · « **Reply #65 on:** May 19, 2016, 07:18:29 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 19, 2016, 07:07:22 PM

I heard either overpressure or under pressure can cause this (if you hit something)...?

Hitting something hard enough will bend a rim regardless of the pressure. Low pressure won't help and should be avoided for a number of reasons unless you're off-road with appropriate tires. Keep tire pressure to spec.

The Dude · « **Reply #66 on:** May 19, 2016, 07:19:38 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 19, 2016, 07:07:22 PM

I'm sure the rim is fixable but I think I am going to get another r1100 rim.

Any idea how it might have got bent at the lip? I heard either overpressure or under pressure can cause this (if you hit something

40 psi+\- is not in the ball park for deforming this material.
The overwhelming force is from being hit.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #67 on:** May 20, 2016, 07:00:17 PM »

Bought some bearings today as recommended.

First off sourcing 2 angular contact with cup for the steering. Getting those at 30$ each. The angular contact one for the axle is going to be ordered from BMW. No manufacturer carries this- it has to be special ordered from BMW.

The other axle bearing is generic (hurray😃) and I bought it for 4$.

The Dude · « **Reply #68 on:** May 20, 2016, 07:40:40 PM »

Quote from: jjs1234 on May 20, 2016, 07:00:17 PM

Bought some bearings today as recommended.

First off sourcing 2 angular contact with cup for the steering. Getting those at 30$ each. The angular contact one for the axle is going to be ordered from BMW. No manufacturer carries this- it has to be special ordered from BMW.

The other axle bearing is generic (hurray😃) and I bought it for 4$.

I'm more confused than usual,mainly by your axel terminology and bearing quantities.That's ok.
Here follows my understanding...
The generic deep groove ball bearings 6005 2RS C3 you have, go on the front wheel axel.there is two of them and they are the same,I guess it's the front wheel were talking about.(note you have got big clearance -C3. ) usually reserved for running hot applications.Oh well,you won't notice.
The stearing head bearings on my '86K75 are generic tapered roller bearings x2 (top and bottom)both the same.Probably worth you looking them up in the parts catalog,cause American bikes may have been different to rest of the world....
It's just money, in the end.You will get there.I gave up saving at the cost of just getting it right but I have learnt in the usual way...yeh, and I don't trust anyone no more.I'm continually disappointed....oh well,still getting older!

jjs1234 · « **Reply #69 on:** May 20, 2016, 10:05:37 PM »

The parts fiche said that there are two different bearings on the front wheel of a k 1100 LT. The LT has an 18in rim. The RS has a 17. Its weird how different bearings are needed for both! :dunno

The 4$ one matches the 25x47x12 which is number 3# on the diagram. Number 4# however is an angular contact ball bearing radial 25 x 47 x 16. It's pin number is 36312311031. I believe those run about $80.

On the Angular Contact Ball Bearing, I am told you will need some ---> internal force aswell as ^^^ force (if this makes sense) to prevent the balls from falling out of the bearing. My guess for this perticular bearing is that the axle needs to be tightened by the bolt on the end and this bearing bears the brunt of it.

The Dude · « **Reply #70 on:** May 20, 2016, 10:09:36 PM »

Fair enough!I stopped buying bikes in the eighties.
All the best.

jjs1234 · « **Reply #71 on:** May 20, 2016, 10:15:57 PM »

Quote from: The Dude on May 20, 2016, 10:09:36 PM

Fair enough!I stopped buying bikes in the eighties.
All the best.

I am curious as to why both bearings cant be the same. I may have answered my question but I am not entirely sure to be honest!

:dunno2:

The other thing I wanted to mention was that I went to 2 specialized bearing shops today.

In the second I dealt with a man who had been in the bearing industry for 20 years. He told me his credentials (Pacific Union, Airlines etc. buy bearings from him because he knows his stuff). Anyway, the Angular Contact Bearing is only made for BMW. In all of the bearing books he has Koyo, FAG, etc. they do not sell a bearing like this. Usually a manufacturer like BMW will order thousands of these bearings (that are specialized by their size- not a standard size) for the simple reason to charge obscene amounts of $$ for them.

Their are 2 types of markets for bearings. Industrial (which are standard in their size- easy to replace, and wide availability, cheap etc.) and the Automotive industry, simply put their should be no reason to specialty order a bearing unless you want to charge lots of money for it. You can make a bearing smaller but you cant make it bigger.

Interestingly, one bearing is $4 while the other is $80+

The Dude · « **Reply #72 on:** May 20, 2016, 11:08:50 PM »

I am curious as to why both bearings cant be the same. I may have answered my question but I am not entirely sure to be honest!

:dunno2:

The other thing I wanted to mention was that I went to 2 specialized bearing shops today.

Their are 2 types of markets for bearings. Industrial (which are standard in their size- easy to replace, and wide availability, cheap etc.) and the Automotive industry, simply put their should be no reason to specialty order a bearing unless you want to charge lots of money for it. You can make a bearing smaller but you cant make it bigger.

Interestingly, one bearing is $4 while the other is $80+

[/quote]
Yea, I was starting to get synical by the end of the eighties.Accumulated enough bitter experience,by then,for that stuff to ring too true.Oh well....I was a design engineer (including ships Winch gearboxes) and if I made that sort of ef up I would've shot myself...it seems the marketing dept turned it into a "win win"....and made it so.
Best renew as a set,by the way.....

jjs1234 · « **Reply #73 on:** May 21, 2016, 12:08:58 AM »

All new ones. The damn spacer got destroyed though. That's coming from BMW. I paid someone to take them out, should of done it myself.

Question: My model 84 (technically) k100 rear lights (not markers) seem to be single fillament. Is this the same across all years including k1100?

I am looking at the fiche and it looks as this is true. How weird. :dunno2:

jjs1234 · « **Reply #74 on:** May 22, 2016, 03:52:49 PM »

New Pictures:

The link takes you to the post...

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=8176.msg62651#msg62651

News:

Author Topic: Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build (Read 180326 times)