Home made carb sync tool....Best fluid

[bizzaro]

 I made a carb sync tool this morning.  I am wondering what is the best available fluid to use.  I have 90 wt  gear oil, tranny fluid, 30wt engine oil, and other engine oils, or can get whatever is recommended  by you guys in the know, and is available at the hardware store? Also, just in case it gets sucked into the cylinder, what is the most benign? I was thinking the 90 wt gear oil, because it is heavier and the real tools used to use mercury?(and I don't know of any damage a little 90 wt would do to a cylinder?) Any thoughts or considerations much appreciated. 
Thanks, Bizz

[TimTyler]

Use mercury.  :eek:

Or maybe this.

[Billk]

I use tranny fluid. Make sure your connections are made before starting the engine and disconnect after you turn off the engine. Also the adjusting screws should be close to equal turns when starting. Doing all this will avoid sucking the adjusting fluid into the engine. My home made carb tune tool can only adjust two cylinders at a time.
I set the first adjust ment screw at 1 1/2 turns out from the full seated position and I adjust the second cylinder to the first. I then shut the engine and re connect the first and third cylinder and adjust the third to the first.,shut down and disconnect. When doing this make sure your engine is at operating temperature and if your slow set up a fan to cool the engine.

[Scott_]

When I made mine initially, I used  the 'pink RV antifreeze', thinking that it was light weight enough to register decent as well as not worrying about it freezing in the winter time. BTW, I also used some "flow restrictor's" to limit(slightly dampen) the pulsing.
I made a mistake and did have it get sucked in and it burned it out the exhaust without any ill effects.
I've since replaced it with a Twin-Max, only to eventually upgrade from that to the full fledged 4-cyl CarbTune.....

[rbm]

ATF has the right consistency for a home-made sync tool.  Unlike the "U" shaped plastic tube design, the dual bottle design will prevent ATF from being sucked up into the TBs.

[stokester]

ATF has the right consistency for a home-made sync tool.  Unlike the "U" shaped plastic tube design, the dual bottle design will prevent ATF from being sucked up into the TBs.

ATF works for me

[TX brick]

I use antifreeze in my dual bottle. The first one I built, I put too much fluid in the bottles and sucked some antifreeze in one TB. Lots of smoke, but no damage. The next one I built, less fluid was added.

This type of synchronizer is very sensitive and works well.

[bizzaro]

Johnny, weed butter is way to expensive. And the little women just used the last of it to grease the  pan for, eeh eem, brownies, but thanks for your input.
Tim, I am not patient enough to wait for the order to come in, but would love the carbtune.( and trying to save cash)  I am trying hard to get the brick road ready for a trip to CO. for a wedding. Time is getting short.
I have a pretty good four line set up. All the lines are all the same length. Everything is tight. The hose on  the tool is a larger diameter than the hose to the throat body valves. I hope serves as a restrictor? I have seen the bottle design, I think what I have will work.
ATF is in.  Off to warm up the bike.  (Right after a couple o brownies)
Thanks to all that helped out. I will report back with results. Tried to rotate pix and don't have time to mess with computer whack.

[bizzaro]

OK> Total Faliure.......................on to the bottle method.   :falldown:

[MonkeyMcBean]

Use mercury.  :eek:

Or maybe this.

95 bucks +tax and shipping is a lot of money for some of us... I like Johnny's recommendation.

[MonkeyMcBean]

Tried to rotate pix and don't have time to mess with computer whack.  You get the idea. Any suggestions here?  Too much fluid?

no photos. Id like to see what you do so that I can copy soon.

[bizzaro]

Hey Monkey, it didn't work. :dunno2: Every time I started it, the fluid worked its way towards the cylinder and I had to hit the kill switch.  The tranny fluid was old. and I think I needed larger holding/measuring tubes and a reservoir of some sort.  And longer connecting tubes. I may try again after thinking it through......or just drop the dough for the carbtune. Here are some shots of the failed manometer! Sideways. Going to do the bottle method tomorrow. If I am happy with that, I may just be done for now.

[KCinSB]

NOT home made,......... but I like it !!!

[bizzaro]

Looks good but I would be curious to know how much "vacuum" is available? :eek:

[KCinSB]

I apologise for the Hy-Jack.......   But, this does eliminate the issue of sucking the fluid into the cylinders.  : :giggles

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Bizz,  this is the balancer I use for my bikes.  Two Snapple bottles, use glass because the vacuum will collapse most plastic bottles.  Two corks, I used rubber lab stoppers, but cork will work.  Two 1ft pieces of brass tube from the hardware store or hobby shop, and a vacuum line tee from the auto parts place.

Isopropyl alcohol with some red food coloring makes it easy to see the levels.  Low viscosity and weight make for the most sensitive instrument.  Use about 3/4 of one bottle divided between the two.  That way it can't get in the engine.

With the engine warm, adjust the air screws for 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated.  Balance is when the level in the two bottles is not changing.  Doesn't matter what the levels are or that they aren't the same as long as they are steady and not changing.

Don't pay any attention to the frame the bottles are in, it is the result of a fit of boredom meeting up with some scrap wood last winter.   It does help keep them from tipping over when I am using the balancer.

[KCinSB]

So if both TBs are equal, the vacuum above the fluid level  does not move the from one bottle to the other. Is the small Tee I see in the one connector tube a way to make the system more or less sensitive? In the worst case, this system will simply suck all the fluid into one bottle, and not get into the motor. So you adjust the sensitivity (leak rate) or the TB screws, and try again right? 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

So if both TBs are equal, the vacuum above the fluid level  does not move the from one bottle to the other. Is the small Tee I see in the one connector tube a way to make the system more or less sensitive? In the worst case, this system will simply suck all the fluid into one bottle, and not get into the motor. So you adjust the sensitivity (leak rate) or the TB screws, and try again right?

When the vacuum is the same in both bottles no fluid flows between them.  The lighter and less viscous the fluid, the less vacuum difference it takes to move the fluid, and hence the more accurate the balance.

The small tee is to connect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.  It really isn't necessary, since you can disconnect the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator and things will still run.

By adjusting one of the screws in or out you can make the fluid flow back and forth between the two bottles.   I set the last throttle body at 1 1/2 turns and adjust the rest of them to match it.  When everything is done the idle should be smooth and between 750 and 900 rpm.

[bizzaro]

Thanks again Gryph, I have Y T'd a bunch of the bottle sync vids. Ah, your set up is far superior.  And I tried last night with "thick plastic bottles" and they collapsed like nobody's business.  Just polished off two nantucket nectars so. Will grab the rest of it on my way home from work. Any particular reason you start with cylinder 4? Accessibility?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I start from the rear only because it's close to the throttle position sensor and the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator connects to it so it doesn't have a cap like the others.  That's why I put the tee in one of the lines.  I put it on and just leave it connected until I'm done. 

[Billk]

This works for me. Cost few dollars had most everything in my garage. As used it on multiple cyclinders.

[Motorhobo]

I just bought 3 Honest Mango Teas in the glass bottle. Snapple too sweet.

Gryph -- why didn't you add a bottle for your 3cylinder K75? Is there any advantage to just having a dual setup rather than a triple? Bottles, hose and rubber stoppers are cheap enough...

[F14CRAZY]

Mine's like BillK's but I have a tee in the center so there's one tube for each cylinder. I used ATF

[Billk]

I originally made this for my Suzuki V Strom and ended up using it for my K75. I also have a Twin Max but I find the home made gage faster to work with. I also use red ATF.

[bizzaro]

I agree Snapple is way to sweet.........Got to go with Tom's Nantucket Nectar!
So here is the newer and improvider throttle body sync tool I made. It worked great.  Took a bit to get the hang of it.
Doing two cylinders at a time might actually be easier and quicker, but not quite as accurate as one bottle for each cylinder.  I used a bit less than 16 oz of alcohol so even if one bottle got all the fluid it would not get sucked into the combustion chamber.   I think alcohol is lighter, therefore more sensitive to changes?  :clap:  Also I can't decide if I should link the two outside bottles, cylinder 1 and 4, with a loop. Cylinder's 2 and 3 can pull from either side having a tee connection.  I bought T fittings today, and some more hose to do just that.  I think I will try it after I replace my air filter and switch out my plugs in the next few days.  That is the way the "four bottle model" I used from You Tube was rigged.(with a loop between bottles 1 & 2)  At first I didn't see a need for it, but now it kinda makes sense and may be quicker to adjust with the two outside bottles linked.