What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Martin]

You can get motorcycle air conditioning. There are a few different ones try googling motorcycle air conditioning.
Regards Martin.

[CNRED]

I considered this. However, it looked as if the "kneepads" would have no support at the bottom and the radiator shroud would be hanging on by only two screws.
As expensive as these things were I'm surprised they didn't offer air conditioning as an option.

I removed everything from the bottom of the top fairing down.
I'll take a pic today and post it up.
Basically, the "Kneepads" and the radiator shroud are removed as well as the bottom side pieces.  I reinstalled the left and right fairing pockets so it does't look un-finished.
It's a pretty easy process, K75RT owners are removing the lower side pieces on a regular basis for maintenance so it's not a real big issue .  You just go one step further and remove the radiatir fan shroud as well.
The bike looks a little diffrent and it is not as cosmetically appealing as with all of the fairings installed, but it does make a large difference in the ride-ability of the bike in hot weather.  Opening the side fairing vents only makes the heat factior on the rider worse, I believe those vents are there for the motor, not the rider.  Let's face it, these bikes will cook up a rider hot weather.
Removing the lowers and the radiator shroud takes only about an hours work.  Clean them up, wrap them in "bubble wrap" and store them someplace where they will not be damaged.  Place all the bolts and screws in a zip lock bag and tape it to the back of one of the lowers so they don't get lost or misplaced.  When cooler weather shows itself, reinstall them takes about 1 ½ hours and you are good to go.
I don't have a lot of miles on my RT with the lowers missing but as of yet I have not notied a "Down Side" other then appearence.
If it doesn't rain here today, (Imagine that, rain in Phoenix, AZ), I'm going to put a few "shake down" miles on my bike.  I've been fighting fuel issues, (bad pump, bad filter, bad four pin, and bad fuel sender).  Hopefully, I will take the bike out, put a few miles on and get home without the assistance of a trailer.

[CNRED]

OK, it did rain today, but I was able to get the bike out for a short time. 
There's still heat that comes from yhe motor even with the lowers off, but not as much as with the lowers on.  It seems the angle of the radiator and fan routes hot air back towards the riders legs.  I'm not sure there is a quick fix for this problem without building some sort of deflector to route the hot air downward and away from the rider's legs
The bike is definitely cooler to ride with the lowers off but it is still not the complete answer.
Ill see if I can post a pic of the bike without the lowers.


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[CNRED]

greetings...

you gotts a 2 core or 3 core radiator in there...

j o

Is there a way to tell without pulling it out?

[Laitch]

Is there a way to tell without pulling it out?

This link might help.

[Laitch]

I finally got round to making the foot peg risers so my petite wife can sit more comfortably on her new Russell seat.

:clap: I think this calls for an "usie" (couple selfie) photo shot of the side profile with the two of you in the saddle.

[thecableguy]

I finally got round to making the foot peg risers so my petite wife can sit more comfortably on her new Russell seat.

Looks good!  I'm sure the Queen will enjoy her new throne!


Jim

[BlitzenGruv]

I replaced the short line to the fuel filter with proper submersible line. Those NAPA filters work fine, but DO NOT use the fuel line which comes with it. That's what caused mine to stall out and leave me walking a few months ago.
Of course, klutzy me, I seem to have disconnected the level sender while I was in there. DOH!

Just had a look in the tank. It was just the wiring harness obstructing the float arm. Easy fix.  :clap:

[jensk]

Did a final drive spile lube. Replaced the parking light with two small led strips and installed a weatherproof holder for mu oneplus 5

Sendt fra min ONEPLUS A5000 med Tapatalk

[BlitzenGruv]

Went for a nice ride today, about 100 miles. Gustav ran well except for a bit of surging at part throttle. Guess I need to install those new intake bushings and O-rings I bought and synch the throttles.
I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up. Gotta hold each gear out to about 6K. Failing that a little rev before shifting helps. Kinda like my old VWs, a semi double-clutch to match the revs. Still takes a manly shift, not like those British things I'm used to. Maybe if it shifted on the right like God intended.

[Martin]

Blitz it should shift reasonably easy, mine requires you to be slightly firmer than most slick Japanese bikes. I believe you might have a problem could possibly be syncro's.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Ilsa was feeling a bit neglected lately since I have yet to do any long trips with her this year.  Like any neglected woman she decided to get some attention by not lighting up the neutral indicator when I tried to start her last week.  Problem was in the transmission gear position indicator switch. 

I just finished cleaning the switch and reassembling her rear end.  To score some points I replaced the old clutch cable and the accessory outlet on the coil cover.  She seems to be happier now.  Will have to take her out on the road to spend some quality time with her next week.

[Martin]

Gryph coating the GPI switch with Plasti Dip or something similar will alleviate future problems. I did mine about 15 years ago and I haven't had any problems since. I also used heavy silicone grease on the mounting face.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Blitz, I have a sister ship to your K100RS.  I have found that it shifts a bit easier if I just "flick" the clutch lever about a half inch rather than pulling it all the way in.  It seems that having some rotation applied from the engine to the input shaft helps the shift forks follow the tracks in the shift drum and engage the dogs in the gears.

Adding a couple tablespoons of molybdenum disulfide powder to the transmission also helps make it shift easier as well.  The powder coats the parts with a low friction film that makes things slide a lot easier.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Martin, I had a can of Flex Seal spray-on rubber so I put a couple coats on the switch.  I also wiped down the innards with Dow dielectric grease.  Am hoping this will do the trick.

[Martin]

 :2thumbup: Should do the trick. I don't know why they weren't better sealed, especially given that where the are located they are subjected to water and road scum.
Regards Martin.

[Vespa no more]

In the process of going over an K100RS 84 I've finally managed to get home and placate border patrol (Wife).


When I bought it there were "oil leaks" on the motor.


While stashed at mate's place, bike managed to soil its nest and leave a sizeable oil stain on his garage floor - which later stopped. Out of oil I assumed.


Today, drained the sump ... dirty oil removed over flowed the 5L bottle I normally catch it in and created about 1L in tray as well.


6 Litres!


The things you find.


Seems to be coming together okay. Too early to call. Some dodgy wiring noticed

Guy

[rbm]

...  I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up. Gotta hold each gear out to about 6K. Failing that a little rev before shifting helps. ...

+1 to what Martin observed above.  Shifting on a K1100 should be silky smooth in both directions albeit requiring a positive shift action, but it should not be as you describe.  There may be a transmission problem waiting to get worse.

[beemrdon]

Replaced the mirror glass on my K1100 Lt.- one side only. About $91.oo at my local dealer.
Such a deal......

[Laitch]

I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up. Gotta hold each gear out to about 6K. Failing that a little rev before shifting helps.

I believe your number has come up for a transmission input spline lube, Blitzen. I scanned your post history and I don't recall reading about your performing that little task. It's likely shifting will be smooth up or down after doing that—if you haven't done that yet.
 :yes

[jj4hm]

I took my 12 year old son for a ride this afternoon after installing new front brake pads 2 days ago.  It's kinda nice to hear him ask, "Dad, can we go for a ride somewhere?"   Now if I could get him to stop flailing his arms around like he's directing traffic whenever I come up to a stop!  I guess I'll just take the positive view that he's helping me improve my low speed balance.

[billday]

I figured out the shifting. Sometimes it just won't shift up, especially before it warms up.

Sometimes my K100 declines my request for the next gear up, usually from 2nd to 3rd. If I give the top of the shift lever a light tap (with my toe) with the clutch engaged, it will then give me the upshift. Blitz, I'd be interested to hear if this works for you.

[Scud]

Mine turned over 50,000 miles today.

[Rcgreaves]

Yesterday I was reckless.  I wanted to chronicle my marvelous country commute home on my gopro....maybe another day....  I was too too hot entering a deep right hander- off screen to left of frame.  The bike hit what I term a "whooptie" as in a tarmac repair that unweighted the suspension.  The handlebars began to oscillate uncontrollably.  on the brakes now, right knee dropping to fight the gyrations and off into a ditch went my lovely silver bitch I call Betz.  Go Pro recorded I left the saddle at 78mph. Dumb ass...now sore ass... The Go Pro footage is wild.  I must have tumbled 30 times  Not proud of that today but thankful I'm sufficiently acrobatic to walk away with only rash....all armor installed for this ride daily...


So is it the spinning drive shaft that induces this wobble?  Is it the fluidbloc that is there to fight this?  chain drive and a steering damper for my next ride me thinks!!


The bike is insured and I intend to restore it as most of it is cosmetic. 


38 years of street riding, this is my very first shunt.  My sons age 19 and 24 will never let me live this down.  My bride held her breath a lot yesterday.

[Rcgreaves]

So the wobble....


tire pressures were too high.. had my eh hemmm stocky bride on the back over the weekend and the pressures therefore maxed out..


front head-stock bearings.. ive wiggled and wobbled and they seemed solid..maybe contributed?


drive shaft was ....really ..eh hem... spun up.. rotational inertia....


never touched front suspension.. ill do fresh fluid...book says 3w  several posters are using 8 to 10w??? 


new Shimkos less than 1000miles..likem lots.


rear shock is a YSS (sp) about 5 years old, PO, $375... damper was dialed up tight for wifey...stiffer better me thinks...


ok enough. Heading to shop for loud tunes and the post mortem disassembly.