What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Scud]

That case looks pretty good!

Agreed - I just put a can of that paint in my Amazon shopping cart. Thanks for the tip.

[Filmcamera]

You are very welcome!  :2thumbup:

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I'm getting a can as well.  Doing a spruce up on all my cases(10 of them altogether for three bikes) this winter. 

[Martin]

Just did one of my cases tragkorbs which had a couple of deep scratches. I masked off the bumper pads and badge and reflector and started with medium grade wet and dry progressing through to fine and finish off with fine cutting compound and plastic polish. I finish it off with 2-3 coats of Forever Black bumper and plastic restorer followed by a couple of coats of Surf City's Black Max. I bought a virtually brand new 240V electric buffer for $5.00 at the dump recycle shop complete with buffs and pads which helped in the final stages.
Regards Martin.     

[The Mighty Gryphon]

My cases are a bit beyond buffing.  I'm looking at some filler and high build primer followed by satin black possibly with a satin clear coat.  I've heard that Duck uses truck bed liner on his. 

[Martin]

Rustoleum satin black works well matching OEM finish on engine parts. And the Rustoleum bed liner is holding up well on my belly pan. I'm sounding like I'm working for Rustoleum, I wonder if they pay commissions.  :hehehe
Regards OZ Martin #1.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Is the bedliner hard to clean.  I have visions of it holding dirt in the texture.

[Martin]

A soft brush seems to be all that's required along with car wash. Although the super long bucket flap is definitely helping.
Regards OZ Martin #1.

[F14CRAZY]

My natural black side cases have some deep scratches. Can I sand them smooth (removing the natural texture), fill in any really deep scratches and prime/paint/clear in the bike's color?

[Filmcamera]

Yes you can that is exactly what I did to mine, not a great before and after of the cases but you get the idea

[Farmrjohn]

I added a Laminer Lip.  It did move the airstream impact zone up, and if my torso/sitting height was a bit shorter, or perhaps if I put the S bars back on, I'd be completely in the clear air.  Overall it's a positive modification.

[Chaos]

I added a Laminer Lip.

Can't count the number of windscreen, handlebar, barbacks, helmets deflector lips and microswirl combinations I've had until I found a combination that I'm satisfied with.  so many variables.....

[RobP]

Phase I of winter maintenance complete:

• New Shinko 712s
• New brake pads
• Installed BMW OEM heated grip retrofit kit
• Added LED running lights

[Martin]

F14Crazy if you want to just keep them black you can get them ultra shiny by sanding, buffing and polishing. An electric buffer does come in handy saves a lot of elbow grease.
Regards Martin.

[Nine80seven]

Got a nice? Reconditioned 50 amp alternator for my nice old '84 K100RS, just for fun cuz the bearings in the 32 amp piece sound a little dry.  The regulator looks a little groty, like maybe cleaned but working, so, gonna put a new one in, just for fun.  Question, the numbers and the cost?


From BMW dealer, seated?, 171 bucks.  In various places across web, around thirty bucks?  Some made in India and some wherever.  Better from Germany, or do they all come from China? 


Numbers, when cross referencing BMW part numbers, actual part numbers, all indicating 14V, if it fits use it? 


I realize I'm on my own here, just looking for a more electrically advanced opinion than my own inclination to plug and play and save 140 bucks.  Thanx.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Why are you replacing a good regulator?  Are the brushes worn out?

Regulators do not wear out.  They smoke out when they get hit with more load than they can handle.  That 50A will be loafing along if you are still running all the stuff you ran with the 32A.  With the conversion to LED's, lighting, which is usually the largest load, alternator loads are getting smaller, not bigger.

[Nine80seven]

Thanx for the reply, I'll just remove check the length of the brushes and proceed.  Cheers.

[BlitzenGruv]

Rustoleum satin black works well matching OEM finish on engine parts.

Agreed. I used the same paint for the cylinders on my BSA.

[Supershooter]

Checked valve clearance last time I was in the shop.
Supershooter

[Nine80seven]

Took spare FD '85K100 to dealer to replace old input/output seals, no biggie.  Came off running bike, spun nice.  Picked up today, while cleaning it gave it a spin, could hardly make it spin.  Put bake disc on, turned it, could feel it binding, unless my imagination has gone bonkers. 


Question: can the inurds be disturbed when replacing seals?  I don't know, thought you just removed nut, pried out input seal, install, and big seal goes in after whatever.  Calls service back says bearings were alright.  How do you argue with service. It's a spare, but my other unit spun, you know, whir, spun.  This one now if put on the brake disc and give it a turn the brake disc just goes round on the bench.  Why does trying to do some simple thing get so complicated.  Just thought it would be nice to have a spare ready to go, should have left it alone. Looking for opinion only.  Someone who's been in there. 

[Laitch]

Question: can the inurds be disturbed when replacing seals?   Looking for opinion only.

Here are some opinions. Yes, innards can always be disturbed when doing any procedure. Check that it has oil in it. Install it on the bike with the correct oil level in it and let the engine slowly spin it a little. That should limber it up. Then put the other drive back on there.
Everything will be all right. You'll see. If everything isn't all right, you'll see that, too. :yes

[Nine80seven]

Thanx, I called the dealer mechanic and service manger said the seals may make it tight to turn since they're new?  I assume the case was not taken apart so the shims should not have been disturbed.  The only way to know is to do it yourself.  Not throwing anymore at it unless I can do it.  Could'a bought the tools. 

[Laitch]

Thanx, I called the dealer mechanic and service manger said the seals may make it tight to turn since they're new?. . . I assume . . ..

Did the dealer say that or didn't he? What's the question mark about? Don't make assumptions. The whole point of installing it and having the engine turn it slowly is to limber it up. You are creating drama in an ordinary situation by overanalyzing it, which is your right, of course.
   :riding:

[DavidATL]

Took spare FD '85K100 to dealer to replace old input/output seals, no biggie.  Came off running bike, spun nice.  Picked up today, while cleaning it gave it a spin, could hardly make it spin.  Put bake disc on, turned it, could feel it binding, unless my imagination has gone bonkers. 


Question: can the inurds be disturbed when replacing seals? ...

I believe that replacing the output seal requires close to full disassembly of final drive including removal of the ring gear (ref Haynes) The input looks to be easier but still requires heating the assembly.


During a spline lube on my new-to-me K75, I noted that the FD input seal was weeping a tiny bit. After reading this:


http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7029.0


I decided to just keep an watchful eye on it.

[Nine80seven]

Thanx for the replies, just seems too tight.  I'll let the mechanic spin it and then decide.  Question mark was for, can two new seals turn so hard as to be almost forced?  Had my other one serviced the same way, spun just fine after and rides just fine.