Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998846 times)

drut · « **Reply #1025 on:** December 14, 2013, 03:34:53 PM »

Finished building up bike,relieved when it started up OK.

Opus · « **Reply #1026 on:** December 14, 2013, 06:53:17 PM »

Nice!

TS87KLT · « **Reply #1027 on:** December 15, 2013, 12:29:29 PM »

That looks brilliant!

mystic red · « **Reply #1028 on:** December 15, 2013, 12:51:22 PM »

White wheels are a nice touch!

drut · « **Reply #1029 on:** December 15, 2013, 12:58:38 PM »

"White wheels are a nice touch!"

Funnily enough I planned to paint them black but happened to see a photo of another K with white wheels.

snanny · « **Reply #1030 on:** December 16, 2013, 10:55:25 AM »

Well, the speakers on my new K1100lt were shot so I decided to replace the originals with new ones. I checked the posts here and decided to go with the Polk db401 speakers others had fit in. Couldn't find any in stock at the local audio stores so I went with Kicker DS40 after checking the depth dimension to make sure they should fit. I removed the originals and found a retaining rig holds the speaker in place which of course was to small diameter to fit the Kickers. I ended up using a Dremel tool to open up the inside diameter of the rings to make them fit. I then had to file down the little nubs on the grills so the speakers would fit flush and not stick out to far in the rear and interfere with the antenna. The Kickers sound great! While I had the dash apart I did the handle bar mod to tighten the steering with extra washers which I also read about here. That also worked out nicely and the bars are a lot tighter than before. Am now waiting for the new 17" Cee Bailey windsheild to arrive.

CRASH · « **Reply #1031 on:** December 26, 2013, 08:21:59 PM »

Power Brake/ABS unit failed. $3000 for a part is a bit much to put into a bike with 100k on it. By passed it. No more ABS or Power Brakes, but it stops just fine, then I smelled something electrical. The pump motor in the unit would not shut off. If I by passed that unit electrically I lose my brake lights, speedo and cruise control. Lights I have to have, rewired those ... speedo is over rated and this bike is never going on another IBA ride again, so the cruise control can go too. This will get me by until I can decide what to by sometime in 2014. :falldown:

Grim · « **Reply #1032 on:** December 26, 2013, 08:47:36 PM »

Quote from: TimTyler on September 23, 2013, 10:11:27 PM

R+R Steering Bearings - Part I - Remove

My steering has a little notch in the straight-ahead position. Time to replace the bearings.

I've been hesitant to tackle this. Watched the YouTubes, read the forums, and I didn't want to get half way through the job and not be able to finish in my driveway. But so far it's going well.

The outer races stuck in the frame were knocked out with a screwdriver from the inside with light duty hammer tapping.

I learned that the fluid block damper needs to come out through the top since there are welds in the way (steering lock) on the bottom.

The top inner race came off the top triple tree with a strong breeze. The lower inner race required cutting with a dremel tool, a blow torch (which i don't think made a difference) and some hammer whacking from below. This mangled the lower dust cap so I'm hoping the dealer has some in stock in the morning.

I bought the bearings a few weeks ago. The outer races are in the freezer now along with the cleaned steering tube / lower triple tree assembly. I also bought the Dow High Vacuum Grease that is recommended for the fluid block damper.

The hole in the steering tube where the steering lock slides into was a little bent and I needed to file it down to slide the old bearing off.

More tomorrow hopefully.

Quote from: CRASH on December 26, 2013, 08:21:59 PM

Power Brake/ABS unit failed. $3000 for a part is a bit much to put into a bike with 100k on it. By passed it. No more ABS or Power Brakes, but it stops just fine, then I smelled something electrical. The pump motor in the unit would not shut off. If I by passed that unit electrically I lose my brake lights, speedo and cruise control. Lights I have to have, rewired those ... speedo is over rated and this bike is never going on another IBA ride again, so the cruise control can go too. This will get me by until I can decide what to by sometime in 2014. :falldown:

You might drop Chris Harris (YouTube) a line or look through his vids and see if he has posted anything. He has removed the power brakes on quite a few bikes. He had 3 P bikes in at one time around October removing all that junk.

CRASH · « **Reply #1033 on:** December 26, 2013, 10:46:40 PM »

You can't remove the K1200 servo units without losing these items. Once it was clear my servo unit was beyond behaving even as just a pass through for the electronics, I used the wiring diagram to get my lights back since those are mandatory. Chris avoids K1200s other than LTs - the RTs are completely different beasts - I really don't see myself with another servo brake fitted bike.

CRASH · « **Reply #1034 on:** December 27, 2013, 01:47:44 PM »

And after tossing and turning and going over schematics in my head last night -I wish I knew what I learned yesterday before I learned it and my wiring would be a much cleaner deal. Figured out how to "trick" the BMW brain into giving me my lights, speedo and cruise control while not turning on that squealing box of solenoids that don't work anymore anyway. Took me about 30 minute to dig out the wires and re-connect them in the new configuration. Next time I have to do one of these, the process will be much easier and cleaner.

Next time I have to pull the covers and tank off I will get in there and do a proper soldering job of the wiring mess I created as I experimented.

Grim · « **Reply #1035 on:** January 04, 2014, 10:43:44 PM »

My new wheel bearings came in this week so I decided to brave the cold garage and do that today. While I was at it I decided to change the fork oil. As nasty as that sludge was I wouldn't be surprised it was the original oil :(. It oozed out and took an hour to quit dripping. I'll be changing that again in a couple months.
I hate people.

While that dripped I swapped bearings. I may need a new wheel. :dunno2:

The thin bearing about fell out. When I put new tires on the bike I noticed the bearing on one side felt rough. What apparently has been happening is it's been spinning the race in the wheel. When I went to install the skinny bearing was loose enough I pushed it in by hand with no difficulty. When I spun it the drag on the grease was enough to make the race spin in the hub. I made some shims out of a foil pan to get a good tight fit. Marked the wheel and bearing so I can check and see if it's spinning.

I've had a come and go shimmy on the hwy. I bet this was the cause. Try and get it out tomorrow if the weather holds and see if it's gone.

I've though about going to RS wheels and I guess I'll start looking. Hopefully this will make it till I wear the tire out.

TS87KLT · « **Reply #1036 on:** January 05, 2014, 07:13:19 PM »

I installed a 60 amp alternator in my K100. Yes, I did!

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5231.msg33108#msg33108

pallum · « **Reply #1037 on:** January 06, 2014, 06:34:42 AM »

Discovered that my bike won't start at -13C :(

BeemerDrew · « **Reply #1038 on:** January 07, 2014, 09:59:51 PM »

Dropped it in this morning to the local BMW Dealer to get a full service done it. As I have only had it for a few weeks I felt it was a good idea to get all the fluids and filters changed. Also noticed that the right hand front fork seal is leaking and also the front master cylinder seems to be weeping a bit too. Yes, I know that I could do this stuff by myself, but just don't have the time these days. Turns out that both master cylinders need replacing as they are pitted. I was worried about the cooling system as it seems to get a bit hot in heavy traffic when it's a hot day (it's summer down here! 40 degree celcius temperatures are normal - not like what they are having in North America these days) but apparently that's normal. All up it's going to cost a bit to get the service and repairs done but at least the bike will be solid when I get it back. The previous owner didn't ride it all that much and I think that the lack of use is the main reason why the master cylinders have corroded.
cheers
Andrew

Grim · « **Reply #1039 on:** January 07, 2014, 10:32:47 PM »

Quote from: BeemerDrew on January 07, 2014, 09:59:51 PM

Dropped it in this morning to the local BMW Dealer to get a full service done it. As I have only had it for a few weeks I felt it was a good idea to get all the fluids and filters changed. Also noticed that the right hand front fork seal is leaking and also the front master cylinder seems to be weeping a bit too. Yes, I know that I could do this stuff by myself, but just don't have the time these days. Turns out that both master cylinders need replacing as they are pitted. I was worried about the cooling system as it seems to get a bit hot in heavy traffic when it's a hot day (it's summer down here! 40 degree celcius temperatures are normal - not like what they are having in North America these days) but apparently that's normal. All up it's going to cost a bit to get the service and repairs done but at least the bike will be solid when I get it back. The previous owner didn't ride it all that much and I think that the lack of use is the main reason why the master cylinders have corroded.
cheers
Andrew

Before you spend the money on the fork seal you might want to locate a "seal mate". Quite a few of us have had good luck using that $5 gem to clean the seals including myself. I've got 1000 dry mile so far.

BeemerDrew · « **Reply #1040 on:** January 12, 2014, 11:40:04 PM »

Picked up my beastie from the workshop today - as well as the service they replaced both master cylinders, revamped the brake hoses, new front tyre and rear disc pads as well as the front fork seal. Yeh, I know it cost a bomb but at least I know that the brick is solid and there isn't anything else wrong with it. Just itching to plan a weekend away on it now!

subforry · « **Reply #1041 on:** January 13, 2014, 06:36:09 PM »

Changed my fuel filter - easier than I thought.

Also added pinstripes to edge of front fender.

johnny · « **Reply #1042 on:** January 15, 2014, 12:33:18 PM »

lior installed new tiors and replaced oils... had 18 thousand miles on the mobil 1 oils... still had that gold color and no metal on the drain plug...

j o

staffordworks · « **Reply #1043 on:** January 15, 2014, 01:49:26 PM »

fear of working with gas was overridden by fear of catching fire and blowing up as my cracked fuel line finally started weeping when I warmed it up, turned out to be a very easy fix. my greatest fear was undoing the line from the rail and having gas go everywhere but it was literally only a drop, tried following directions (why does that never work?) and found that actually just laying the tank over on its side on a box i could get at the tank end of the line, swapped them out, had some trouble figuring out which way the bend should go (old line looks like it wasn't stock so i couldnt use that as a guide. but a little wiggling and i was back in business. whew! in the process i came across mention of fork seal cleaner thinger, just a plastic slim jim basically dude says 99% of the time you dont have a cracked seal just dirt holding it open, going to give that a try before i drop $500 on replacing them but then i have to figure out how to evenly top them off (only one has been leaking but for a long time)

Grim · « **Reply #1044 on:** January 15, 2014, 06:25:54 PM »

Quote from: staffordworks on January 15, 2014, 01:49:26 PM

fear of working with gas was overridden by fear of catching fire and blowing up as my cracked fuel line finally started weeping when I warmed it up, turned out to be a very easy fix. my greatest fear was undoing the line from the rail and having gas go everywhere but it was literally only a drop, tried following directions (why does that never work?) and found that actually just laying the tank over on its side on a box i could get at the tank end of the line, swapped them out, had some trouble figuring out which way the bend should go (old line looks like it wasn't stock so i couldnt use that as a guide. but a little wiggling and i was back in business. whew! in the process i came across mention of fork seal cleaner thinger, just a plastic slim jim basically dude says 99% of the time you dont have a cracked seal just dirt holding it open, going to give that a try before i drop $500 on replacing them but then i have to figure out how to evenly top them off (only one has been leaking but for a long time)

On the tank just remember to pop the cap before messing with the lines it relieve any pressure.

On the plastic thing aka "seal mate". Yep try it. It took care of my leaky seal and it's been dry for 1500 miles and counting.

staffordworks · « **Reply #1045 on:** January 16, 2014, 01:34:18 PM »

yep, I pulled the gas cap after i got that drip - no change, chances are because i dont have a really tight seal thanks to tape holding the back of the cap down (next purchase, lucky me i live in the ducks neck of the woods and he has one. then i have to try seal mate and figure out how to top off the forks, looks easy enough to get at the top of them but worried that will just cause it all to come apart, easier than it looks?

drut · « **Reply #1046 on:** January 19, 2014, 07:36:14 AM »

Fitted a pair of aftermarket heated grips,wiring was easy thanks to excellent advice on this forum.Managed to fit clutch side grip easily enough but throttle side grip would not fit over throttle tube and took over an hour of patient filing/sanding before it would fit.

Grim · « **Reply #1047 on:** January 20, 2014, 09:29:46 PM »

Quote from: staffordworks on January 16, 2014, 01:34:18 PM

yep, I pulled the gas cap after i got that drip - no change, chances are because i dont have a really tight seal thanks to tape holding the back of the cap down (next purchase, lucky me i live in the ducks neck of the woods and he has one. then i have to try seal mate and figure out how to top off the forks, looks easy enough to get at the top of them but worried that will just cause it all to come apart, easier than it looks?

I'd just change the fork juice. Quart is more the. Enough to do the job and under $10 from the dealer. Just did mine a couple weeks ago and it really made an improvement in ride.
It's very easy to do there is a drain plug at the bottom and the center Allen bolt on the top is you fill. Instructions and fill quantity is in the liebery forum.

ttown95LT · « **Reply #1048 on:** January 25, 2014, 05:54:57 PM »

Finally put mine all back together from replacing 19yr. old fuel lines with new, changed out all the vacuum lines, and replaced 5 valve buckets. Wow what a difference that made. No more fluctuating throttle, and so smooth on acceleration. If anybody needs some 1.80mm buckets I'll be glad to pass them on.

voodooskin · « **Reply #1049 on:** January 29, 2014, 02:45:41 AM »

Replaced the bias-ply with radials per DUCK advice: PR3 front for me (Oregon = wet) and Avon Azaro rear.

Let me just say as a newbie to moto tire changing this job SUCKS. But not sucky enough to override the inner FRUGAL since I figure I'll be using tires until I'm dead, the more tires the better. So I thought I'd best learn.

To do this job I acquired:
1) Harbor Freight (HF) portable tire changer
2) HF motorcycle tire adapter FPOS
3) mojoblocks for item (2)
4) mojobar
5) balancer from Mark Parnes (bmw specific)

Item (2), the stock threaded vertical leverage axle as shipped from HF is too large in diameter to go through the LT wheels. Fortunately a 2' hunk of threaded 0.75" stock bar from the hardware store mostly threads into the HF base (item 1) and fits through the LT wheels, w. threads wrapped in duct tape to protect das wheelage. Not a match made in heaven but it worked.

The HF stuff is what it is, it isn't elegant but mostly works and cost way less than you would expect, and now I have a large metal bar I can use to protect my valuable motorcycle from gangs of crack-addled cat ladies.

Kudos on the mojobar, I had no clue how much leverage is needed to do this job. This tool made it possible and, zero rim damage.

Kudos on the Mark Parnes balancer

No affiliation on the tools, credit where credit is due. Two tire changes and minus my life moments I'll be money ahead on the cost of the tools (ok, well, three tire changes…) :yes

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Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998846 times)