What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[frankenduck]

It was already leaking, so I couldn't really make my situation any worse by trying, right?  :dunno2: In the end, it didn't work (surprise!).

pallum even in the photo I can see deep corrosion that isn't going to buff out. In an extreme emergency you could fill those scars with epoxy, just to get you home, but I can see a new master cylinder in your future.

Brake systems are one place you should not be trying to make do and mend!

That's why bikes have two brakes: in case on of them fails. :eek:

(I agree that that one looks pretty hammered.)

[wmax351]

It was already leaking, so I couldn't really make my situation any worse by trying, right?  :dunno2: In the end, it didn't work (surprise!).

pallum even in the photo I can see deep corrosion that isn't going to buff out. In an extreme emergency you could fill those scars with epoxy, just to get you home, but I can see a new master cylinder in your future.

Brake systems are one place you should not be trying to make do and mend!

That's why bikes have two brakes: in case on of them fails. :eek:

(I agree that that one looks pretty hammered.)

Cars often have two brake circuits, as well.

[Scott_]

Cars often have two brake circuits, as well.

But you still only have 1 master cylinder. Then there is the manual cable emergency brake, so long as you use it occasionally and it's not froze up..... :2thumbup:

[georgethegoat]

 :dunno

got it all back together.

feeling pretty good with my first "real" job on the brick (hell on any bike really), everything seems to be running smoothly besides a knock in the final drive that was not there previously — at least i didn't notice it.

all the splines were generously coated with guard dog 525 and looked to be in good shape from the clutch on back.

and i changed all the fluids (not brake or coolant) using duck's recommendations.

the noise is very distinctly from the final drive. at first i thought i may have misaligned the two pieces of the clutch that are factory synched but if i touch the transmission or clutch bell housing i feel nothing and can still hear the knock coming from the final drive. touching the final drive delivers a pronounced rhythmic knock.

i'm hesitant to drive it much more since i know these bikes frequently fail at the rear most spline.

any ideas?

otherwise i'm just gonna pull it off and check for irregularities and pop it back on with crossed fingers.

thanks again in advance.

[Snowy]

I have just completed a spline lube on my K1100RS. When it was all back together again I noticed a rythmic knocking coming from what I thought was the FD but turned out to be coming from the swingarm end where it meets the gearbox.  I was resigned to strip everything back down again to see what I had done wrong but thankfully I ran up and down the box from 1st to 5th and back down again whilst spinning the rear wheel. The knocking disappeared completely so the only thing I can think of was that I must have found a false neutral and the knocking was caused by that. Might just be worth trying the same with yours.

[sh00ter]

Installed signalminder SM-6
Replaced or trimmed external fuel lines x3
Flushed Coolant
Checked Spark Plugs
Took L&R fairings off for paint re-touching
Replaced oil pressure switch
Cleaned air box/filter

[pallum]

Fitted a used front master cylinder and replaced the ignition switch finally-- put in a real connector this time to replace the monstrosity previously put there by a PO.

[Opie]

Shimmed the valves to spec, replaced the valve cover gaskets, changed the engine oil and filter, and changed the front brake pads.    :loopy:

[Opie]

Redid the valve cover (the gasket wasn't properly seated).    Removed a fried heated grip switch wire and replaced the alternator rubber dampers (i.e. monkey nutz). 

[jsb]

Pulled the injectors to send to Mr. Injector. Found lots of hoses that need to be replaced. Pulled apart and cleaned many electrical connectors, gave thin coating of dielectric grease.

[frankenduck]

Got radials (BT023 Front and Avon Azaro rear) installed on a spare set of K1100LT wheels so I can move the wheels from the K75F with the Mac 50s over to the other K75 when I give it a K1100 front end and brakes.  Very interested to find out how the K75F performs on radials.  Should be much better if the performance improvement on my K1100LT when I switched from bias to radials is any indicator.

Also got a new license plate for the K75F today.  When I transferred title on the frame three years ago the gal at the licensing office set it up as a collector vehicle (no annual registration fees) and even though the bike isn't 30 years old as required the computer there accepted it. A couple of months ago I got a love letter from the WA DOL telling me that they were canning my collector vehicle title and sending me a normal one where I have to pay annual registration($53) on the bike.  Oh well, at least I got about three years for free.....

[CRASH]

That time again ... oil and filter change and I did the rear drive unit, mostly so I could look at what has collected on the magnetic plug.  The 1200 rear drives have ... issues.  So I watch this one (my 3rd) carefully.

New tires soon ... love the Conti Road Attack 2s, but they just don't last that long.  Dunlop Roadsmart 2s in the garage waiting.  If these don't make me happy, I am considering stopping testing tires on this bike and go back to the ones that did all around the best, the Pirelli Angel STs. (Of course, I have not tried the Metzler Z8s yet .. hmmmmm)

[canazei1200]

Went for a lovley ride up on the Yorkshire moors.came back with a large screw in the back tyre. No luck f... F... F....
Its only done 800 miles that tyre.

[Snowy]

After finishing the service, spline lube and new paralever pivot bearings on the K1100RS I decided a 200+ mile run was in order just to check all the bolts were tight. I am so glad I did'nt sell this bike three years ago its running really well.

[thebob]

Removed the instruments, disassembled them, failed to repair the clock.

Decided to just stick a battery operated clock on the panel.

That one screw that holds the connectors in place on the back was interesting.

Who says the Germans don't have a sense of humor?

[wmax351]

Removed the instruments, disassembled them, failed to repair the clock.

Decided to just stick a battery operated clock on the panel.

That one screw that holds the connectors in place on the back was interesting.

Who says the Germans don't have a sense of humor?

The one screw works fine on the back. They hold themselves in pretty good. The one screw just holds the cover.

If you have the clock out, you could send it to me, and I could try to fix it for you. Even from japan, it should only be a couple bucks shipping each direction.

[frankenduck]

Made a new shift lever for my K75.  I already have one on my K1100RS and like it.  It's a K1100 shift lever with an Ilium Works shift lever extender:

I suspect the diagonal hatching on it might cause more rapid boot toe wear so I covered it with 1" heat shrink tuning.

[CRASH]

I suspect the diagonal hatching on it might cause more rapid boot toe wear ...

It does, I have a similar cover on mine.  Good call on the cover.

[thebob]

Removed the instruments, disassembled them, failed to repair the clock.

Decided to just stick a battery operated clock on the panel.

That one screw that holds the connectors in place on the back was interesting.

Who says the Germans don't have a sense of humor?

The one screw works fine on the back. They hold themselves in pretty good. The one screw just holds the cover.

If you have the clock out, you could send it to me, and I could try to fix it for you. Even from japan, it should only be a couple bucks shipping each direction.

I reassembled it is back in there. The whole right side of my meters are melted even the tach face is warped. The clock bezel is also misshaped. Most of it's working now, I might source a used one if it begins to bug me. Thanks anyway.

[purkolator]

Rebuilt the front calipers and installed new pads.  Had a hell of time trying to bleed the system with a vacuum pump (nearly a 1/2 day wasted) so finally went out and found some big ass syringes and did the reverse bleed method.  Worked like a charm and I had full pressure back at the lever within 15 minutes.  Woot!

[canazei1200]

Got the puncture fixed and touched up the main and side stand.

[healthy]

I bled the brakes yesterday with a vacuum pump. had the same issue (just not for 1/2 a day). i figured there was some air left at the junction under the steering column. after i hit a plateau at the calipers with the pump, i spent about 20 minutes thumping the brake lever, each time watching a few mini bubbles coming up into the reservoir. no change at first but i eventually noticed it getting more and more pressure at the lever.   

[sh00ter]

Put freshly repainted fairings on.
Removed parabellum windshield and put factory one back on
Added tank bag

Ready to roll!

[CRASH]

Starting to warm up here and I have noticed the beasty has been running warmer for a while now.  I have looked and finagled (boiled radiators, new thermostat and so on) but it has not helped.  I started thinking back to when I noticed it and it seemed to begin when I put a Stebel Airhorn up under the fairing ... so I looked up there and it does seem to block about 1/4 of my total cooling area.  On a bike that already runs warm, probably not the best so today I moved it ... the only place I could find was back behind the left passenger peg.  Not really happy with the location, but let's see how the temp is now.

[mystic red]

Ya thinkin' that Stebel might lift you outa the seat now?