What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Scott]

Just went for a ride, 80 F, just too nice not to.  The brick just purred along nicely.

caliente bodfish rd02.jpg (72.98 kB . 768x460 - viewed 1136 times)

[Laitch]

I lubed the final drive pinion gear shaft and driveshaft splines with the last of my Staburags NBU30 PTM supply. I'll probably replace the pinion gear shaft and driveshaft next fall. I cleaned and lubed the rear brake pad hardware.


I also installed one screw into each tragkorb securing it to the z-rack for prevention of launch during pothole navigation here. When I'm satisfied it works as intended, I'll post a Workshop thread about it. It isn't very complicated. :-)

[Chaos]

I'll probably replace the pinion gear shaft and driveshaft next fall.

I'm going to need to do that sometime.  Let us know if you find and economic way

[Past-my-Prime]

I'm going to need to do that sometime.  Let us know if you find and economic way

Me too!!!!! sooner rather than later in my case but I don't want to take the whole FD apart to send just the gear to Hansens, otherwise it's very very expensive by my standards:

If you send the complete rear end the cost is $759.20 to $1,374.93.  If you send the Pinion Gear only, the repair is $240. Plus a new DS which is $374.18, it adds up!

On Ebay, DS plus FD is very rare to find together. Most DS's they don't show you the spline if you just get that although that might get me a few more miles, cheaply. I have some longer distances I'd like to travel.

I'm looking forward to when I can post: I changed the driveshaft and pinion gear on my bike.

[Soggz]

Me too!!!!! sooner rather than later in my case but I don't want to take the whole FD apart to send just the gear to Hansens, otherwise it's very very expensive by my standards:

If you send the complete rear end the cost is $759.20 to $1,374.93.  If you send the Pinion Gear only, the repair is $240. Plus a new DS which is $374.18, it adds up!

On Ebay, DS plus FD is very rare to find together. Most DS's they don't show you the spline if you just get that although that might get me a few more miles, cheaply. I have some longer distances I'd like to travel.

I'm looking forward to when I can post: I changed the driveshaft and pinion gear on my bike.

I just got a new spline set and a 23,000mile final drive. Splines on the FD are really good, and I can get the splines welded on for free! Total cost, £190.00.

[volador]

I just got a new spline set and a 23,000mile final drive. Splines on the FD are really good, and I can get the splines welded on for free! Total cost, £190.00.

Place your bets! How many miles will this cheddar last?

[Soggz]

Place your bets! How many miles will this cheddar last?

lol. I bought some of that German grease too. I might just fix it all up and sell the pos!

[Laitch]

When life hands you a lemon, make lemonade! Of course, needing to run a lemonade stand might not be that enjoyable :-) unless you enjoy meeting people and striking bargains.

[Soggz]

When life hands you a lemon, make lemonade! Of course, needing to run a lemonade stand might not be that enjoyable :-) unless you enjoy meeting people and striking bargains.

German lemonade is more expensive and troublesome than Japanese lemonade, or so I am finding! Lol

[Idonthaveaclue]

After lubing the clutch splines, I took off the tank to see why the rad fan wasn't working (spoiler it's FUBAR). Ran across some interesting stuff I'm hoping you all can help with?



Random switch that isn't connected. Not the "choke", or brake switch? Was just hanging?


Connects up here.


This breather was pinched off. But why?


Also what is this?


thx for the guidance.

Its a super easy bike to work on, just like to ride it more! 

[volador]

#2,3 pictures- Clutch perch- Brake/clutch switch https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51745&diagram=32_1962&partnumber=61311459569

#4 pic- Emission tube/stub found on the front of the block. A design change states to plug off the tube/stub how ever you chose, fold over the hose, insert a proper sized screw, a golf tee...
This thread shows the check valve that once upon a time was connected to the folded over hose Reply #7 and associated service bulletin Reply #13

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12374.msg109367.html#msg109367

#5 pic- looks like a aftermarket accessory plug for most likely heated clothing, cocktail blender, etc...

[Idonthaveaclue]

Thanks Volador!

Really need to look into the cocktail blender. 

What's weird is the clutch and brake switches are present (also one by the throttles). This one is an Extra?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The first photo looks like something was done to eliminate the rev limiter.  Possible aftermarket ECU or ignition module?

[volador]

#2 pic is used for front brake light switch, clutch safety switch, choke light switch pre~1991, rear brake light switch pre-1986/1987

Main harness connects
Choke switch: Violet/White and Brown

Clutch switch: Green/Black and Black/Green

4th possibility for pre-1986/1987 is depending on the right foot rest/peg plate type used the plunger type switch later changed to lever type brake switch
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12979.msg115340.html#new

[Skunky]

New fork seals and oil. Puncture repair and a three hour blast around the Peak District. This is living 🏍🏍🏍🏍

[Martin]

My Stebel Nautilus air horn 139Db lost it's bellow and started to just squawk. I removed it and pulled the horn part off the compressor as it didn't seem to be putting out much air. I sprayed some lube into the air intake but still no joy. The compressor is a sealed unit so out of curiosity I decided to bust it open and I still couldn't see why it was not working. The motor span up fine and the vanes were intact. I bought it in 2015 for $35.00 Au the current price is $39.95 Au.

 I had a look at the place where I got it originally and they had heaps of horns. https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/ This time I decided to try a different approach. You can buy high power magnums diaphragm horns 136 Db $32.95 Au a pair or buy them individually without the relay which works out  $16.45 Au for the low tone and $13.70 for the high tone.

 I decided to go one at a time and bought the low note first, which was pretty good but I decided to go for the second high note. I just pulled off the pathetic OEM horn and the magnum bolted straight on.  The way I originally wired them I had the choice of the nautilus or the OEM. Now I have the choice of one magnum or two.
Regards Martin.

[Past-my-Prime]

My Stebel Nautilus air horn 139Db lost it's bellow and started to just squawk. I removed it and pulled the horn part off the compressor as it didn't seem to be putting out much air. I sprayed some lube into the air intake but still no joy. The compressor is a sealed unit so out of curiosity I decided to bust it open and I still couldn't see why it was not working. The motor span up fine and the vanes were intact. I bought it in 2015 for $35.00 Au the current price is $39.95 Au.

 I had a look at the place where I got it originally and they had heaps of horns. https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/ This time I decided to try a different approach. You can buy high power magnums diaphragm horns 136 Db $32.95 Au a pair or buy them individually without the relay which works out  $16.45 Au for the low tone and $13.70 for the high tone.

 I decided to go one at a time and bought the low note first, which was pretty good but I decided to go for the second high note. I just pulled off the pathetic OEM horn and the magnum bolted straight on.  The way I originally wired them I had the choice of the nautilus or the OEM. Now I have the choice of one magnum or two.
Regards Martin.

Loud pipes just annoy people.  Loud horns WAKE THEM UP: 

[Martin]

They're good for getting people off their mobile phones.
Regards Martin.

[alabrew]

Been a while since this gots a post.

Damn rear tyre on the RS is flat AGAIN! Took it off and put it a tub a water and quickly found the 2" trim nail I haven't been able to see. Really fought to not be removed. A small hole, had to really work to git my Stop & Go plugger. I always mess up with the first mushroom, but gots it with the second. Stopped to pick up some hex head bolts to make removing the silencer easier to git the tyre out and should have it back together this evening so I can ride it tomorrow.

[alabrew]

Well, went out Tuesday to ride to work and the tyre was flat again. Turned out the plugger didn't stop the leak. Ended up removing it but wasn't able to git the plugger tip inserted to try another mushroom.

Current plan is to remove it from the rim (I just happen to have a HF MC tyre changing stand at the house) and have the tyre shop patch it from the inside.
Considered just replacing it (shmbo's suggestion), but it only has 5k on it.

[Supershooter]

Charged the battery, wanted to move it from the garage to the shop. Ran out of time an the weather didn't cooperate, 32 degrees and rain on top of the ice and snow. Maybe it'll get moved tomorrow.
Supershooter

[ScooterNSticks]

Technically, I did this yesterday.  Went up to the Redline Car Wash and sprayed off the mud, salt, limestone grit, and liquid manure that coated the K75 after a long ride.  Need to get to some of the tight spots but most of the offense is gone.

I was on the phone with a friend.  He wanted to know if I wanted to go for a ride.  Sadly, I had to decline so I could attend to some adult responsibilities...
IMG_6764.jpg (65.17 kB . 768x576 - viewed 724 times)

[alabrew]

RS rear tyre saga continues. I was good and washed out all the slime I had put in the tyre to try and stop the leak and took it to the tyre shop for a patch ($10). Gotts home and mounted it, popped the bead (hate doing that) and heard a leak! I figured I must have washed out the slime that was sealing it. Demounted it and took it back in for another patch. One more time!

[Chaos]

RS rear tyre saga continues.

Sometime the grinch is just out to getcha

[natalena]

Applied some Nose Art for the German Brick.