Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998811 times)

volador · « **Reply #3976 on:** April 02, 2020, 02:10:58 PM »

Quote from: johnny on April 01, 2020, 08:56:48 PM

a country boy can survive...

a country boy just got vertigo...

herseyb · « **Reply #3977 on:** April 02, 2020, 04:38:57 PM »

Sounds nice. is that with the jet plugs?

Martin · « **Reply #3978 on:** April 02, 2020, 04:50:40 PM »

Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on April 01, 2020, 10:58:42 PM

Soft ground cost me a $350 Hardly Fergusen saddle bag lid when Moby Brick Junior decided to get intimate with a friend's bike.

Gryph $350.00 sounds a bit dear are you sure it wasn't for the whole bike.
Regards a perplexed Martin.

herseyb · « **Reply #3979 on:** April 02, 2020, 08:31:07 PM »

Stabilized the cracks with superglue and removed the top fairing. Damn that is a lot of fasteners, but I mostly taped them into parts removed or put 'em in zip locks. One of the hanger nuts was glued in place with a tiny, and thankfully old, mud dauber nest!!!

Farm and fleet has drive through pick up if you order online, so I am getting the missing supplies tomorrow. So far so good....

Btw, has anyone used aluminum brazing rod on a gas tank? I got some to patch a hole in my aluminum canoe after a 15 year bondo repair is flaking off, and now I am wondering if I can fix the leaks on my k75 tank with it.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3980 on:** April 02, 2020, 09:51:31 PM »

Quote from: Martin on April 02, 2020, 04:50:40 PM

Gryph $350.00 sounds a bit dear are you sure it wasn't for the whole bike.
Regards a perplexed Martin.

Martin, Hardly parts with the correct custom paint from the factory are beyond dear. In fact, they are almost as bad as Motorrad parts.

herseyb · « **Reply #3981 on:** April 04, 2020, 04:23:47 PM »

glassed as much as I could before running into features....

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #3982 on:** April 04, 2020, 08:14:11 PM »

Yesterday I took Ilsa out for a short ride to blow the virus off. On the way home I noticed a snap noise coming from the back end of the bike. Only did it when I came from a stop or gave it throttle. It was so strong, I could feel it coming up through the seat.

Thinking I had the u-joint in the driveshaft getting ready to shit the bed I made plans to pull the shaft today to check it out. Pulled the rear wheel, pulled the caliper off, removed the screws holding the final drive. Then I went to remove the rear shock...

Crap! The nut that holds the the bottom of the shock to the final drive was loose and backed off at least two turns allowing the shock to slide back and forth on the stud.

Put everything back together and went for a ride. Silence!!! New self locking nut is now at the top of the "to do" list.

herseyb · « **Reply #3983 on:** April 04, 2020, 08:36:00 PM »

yikes!!!

herseyb · « **Reply #3984 on:** April 11, 2020, 08:27:40 AM »

Jesus christ, my fairing repair was going great until I got to the painting stage.

I may know how to spin a wrench but god damn, this is nearing unintentional rat bike territory. I think I'll ride with it for a season and take it to a real paint shop over the winter. I don't have to look at it while riding!

Filmcamera · « **Reply #3985 on:** April 11, 2020, 08:36:59 AM »

I know what you mean! I have spent two weeks sanding and prepping my body work for a total respray and finally a couple of days ago sprayed the first couple of pieces. A total disaster! I am busy sanding it all back again to then summon up the courage to try again.

BlitzenGruv · « **Reply #3986 on:** April 12, 2020, 03:39:49 PM »

I feel your pain. After too many rattle-can paint jobs I bought a pair of proper paint guns. So many variables, air pressure, paint feed, spray pattern, etc.. You can waste a lot of expensive paint on scrap metal just getting close to the correct application.
I'm starting with a fender and some side covers before graduating to a petrol tank. Maybe after that I'll feel comfortable enough with my skill to paint the fairing, IF I can find an acceptable blue metalic paint.

Martin · « **Reply #3987 on:** April 12, 2020, 04:41:51 PM »

If you feel like you would be doing a lot of spraying it might be worthwhile doing a spray painting course.
Regards Martin.

Scott · « **Reply #3988 on:** April 12, 2020, 07:00:37 PM »

On my pre-ride once over, i found a nail in my very new Avon rear tire. Took the Suzuki instead, but now I need to decide what to do. Patch from the inside or replace.

Martin · « **Reply #3989 on:** April 12, 2020, 08:19:05 PM »

Depends on how far you ran with it flat, and if you damaged the sidewalls in doing so. You will at least need to have the tyre removed and examined. I have run with internal patches with no problems but they need to be examined thoroughly by someone who knows what to look for before doing so. Some tyre dealers/fitters in OZ will not patch tubeless tyres.
Regards Martin.

Scott · « **Reply #3990 on:** April 12, 2020, 09:00:07 PM »

Zero ride time, i saw it on my usual pre-ride once over. Happened in the garage, like the last flat i got. Still had proper PSI. I never ride without checking the important things, including tires. With the covid thing, it's a moot point for awhile anyway with most shops closed. Thankfully for me multiple bikes. cheers.

Chaos · « **Reply #3991 on:** April 12, 2020, 11:06:29 PM »

I've never had a problem with plugs, and I've used them on many bikes and cars. But it's your call.

BlitzenGruv · « **Reply #3992 on:** April 12, 2020, 11:31:06 PM »

Quote from: Martin on April 12, 2020, 04:41:51 PM

If you feel like you would be doing a lot of spraying it might be worthwhile doing a spray painting course.
Regards Martin.

While I'm at it I might as well sign up for tool and die. Seems like the solution to many problems with the BSA involve, "Turn one up on your lathe."

Martin · « **Reply #3993 on:** April 13, 2020, 12:33:33 AM »

Blitz then sign up for metal casting followed by a TIG course. I keep on thinking about doing a spray painting course. I have sprayed a few bikes and Go Karts many years ago. I never had trouble with solid paint but I could never seem to match metallic colours. And my bikes metallic.

At the moment the point is moot. We were going to have a thorough spring clean and take stuff to the dump. However somebody got fined for doing a dump run as it wasn't deemed necessary. However the dump is still open. BCF shops (Boating Camping Fishing) are still open but all of the activities in the title are banned.

Regards Martin.

herseyb · « **Reply #3994 on:** April 16, 2020, 08:22:16 PM »

Put the upper fairing back on the K1100rs and road to Caseys for premium no corn. Went straight back home and glad I did because when I got there the rear disc was pinging from heat and the final drive was hot to the touch as well. Just jacked raised the rear wheel off the ground and I can tell it is dragging somewhat.

This thread http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1135.0 mentions it could be from a pedal adjustment causing the master to stick... but when I manually apply the lever the brakes definitely engage, so its not completely stuck. Pedal seems to return fully as well since I can't lift it any further than where it returns naturally.

Thinking about flushing the fluid as a first step since it needs it anyway. hmm....

milq · « **Reply #3995 on:** April 16, 2020, 11:19:55 PM »

Quote from: herseyb on April 16, 2020, 08:22:16 PM

when I manually apply the lever the brakes definitely engage, so its not completely stuck. Pedal seems to return fully as well since I can't lift it any further than where it returns naturally.

Thinking about flushing the fluid as a first step since it needs it anyway. hmm....

Is pressure immediately released from the disc when you let go of the pedal? I've had square seals that didn't fully retract cause pistons to stay out enough to cause dragging for a few second, as well as in internally collapsed brake line doing the same.

herseyb · « **Reply #3996 on:** April 17, 2020, 10:08:45 AM »

Hmmm... it seemed to release quickly, although not fully. I think everything except the rubber hose from the reservoir has been replaced with braided metal. Would that hose also be under pressure like that, even though it is up front of the master cylinder? I had to clean out the front master last season, maybe the rear master needs a good scrub as well.

johnny · « **Reply #3997 on:** April 17, 2020, 10:44:32 AM »

greetings...

if you f-ing with the brakes i would put that final line on there...

i gotts a mityvac if you wanna pull all new fluid thru the entire system... if it was me id proally do that 1st if there are no master leaks...

j io

herseyb · « **Reply #3998 on:** April 19, 2020, 03:33:06 PM »

flushed the rear by hand. cool as a cucumber after 4 mile test run. Gonna try a little longer ride just to be sure.

edit -

well longer ride showed no luck, still pinging. next thoughts are grungy master or grungy caliper...

herseyb · « **Reply #3999 on:** April 20, 2020, 09:43:18 PM »

pulled the rear caliper off to inspect. slider pins grungy as fuck with cakey mixture of brake dust, what appears to be old aluminum anti seize and a little bit of gods honest rust. pistons moved by hand with medium effort, ran out of light to visually inspect. I am thinking a good scrub and a dab of silicone grease should do it.

should i use brake cleaner on the pistons or will that fuck the seals up? I will probably start with simple green.

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Author Topic: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ? (Read 2998811 times)