What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[DRxBMW]

FWIW: Here's an MOA thread on it: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58695

Classic K final drive failure is a rare event. Exception being the Paralever according to Paul Glaves.

75/140 full synth is superior for tranny use hands down,especially in HOT weather.

Cutter recommends non synth Castrol Hypoid C 80w90 for the FD. It is stinky and contains more sulfur than most. When I service my whip this Spring, I'll probably end up using Castrol for the FD this time around. Tom is an excellent wrench and I respect his mechanical opine.

What scares me is the word speculate on several of the BMW MOA forum posts. NO real DATA to back up there claims. Heard thru the grapevine approach rather than an actual roadside breakdown.

I still stand my ground that the newer final drives are a piece of shit !  Ha, the lifetime lubrication statement was a friggin joke.

The real problem may be the lack of shimming,open hole, drop in bearings,whatever. Interesting, that BMW started with a new sheet of paper for the 1600 final drives. Only time will tell if they got it right this time.

[frankenduck]

Paralever fails on the Klassic Ks are pretty rare.

[Scott_]

Well, today I stripped down the front of the '97 for new steering head bearings. Yep they had flat spots in the races  :dunno . I suppose living near a major rail line has a little more vibration effect on them when setting parked over the winter.
Also determined that the main fairing mounting bracket probably should be replaced. Not broke where it mounts to the steering head, but elsewhere on the bracket is bent(tweaked) and split.

Ordered my bearings and other misc parts and pieces last week, should be here Tuesday to start putting it back together.

[billday]

Finished my steering head bearing replacement.

Those bearings were toast (see pictures of top race above).

In retrospect, my bike started feeling twitchy around the time I left Arizona last October -- at the time I thought the change in feel was due to the Dunlop rear I had to buy while I was out there.

That is a hairy job, much more complicated than the back end or the transmission splines. Glad it's done.

[greenmtrider]

Yes I broke my K1100Lt today on the way home from work.  One of my front break callipers came of in a dumb mistake on not rechecking the bolt for tightness. :dunno

[DRxBMW]

Yes I broke my K1100Lt today on the way home from work.  One of my front break callipers came of in a dumb mistake on not rechecking the bolt for tightness. :dunno

better outcome than forgetting to check the actual front wheel fastening torque.  :nono

A guy on the KBMW list had a rear wheel detach. Real rush but relativity unscathed by the incident, other than 76 foot pounds etched in his brain as a lifetime memory.  :neener:

Critical fasteners use that nomenclature for a REASON ! 

On the bright side, "over-tightening" also has dire consequences. 

peace out bricKheads

[CrashBar]

Drilled my rear wheel bolts .050 for safety wire.     I either failed to tighten them properly last spring, or vandals with good tools had some fun, but having them back out was too exciting of an event to repeat (if only the center one is left, the wheel will stay on but not hok up - damhik).  I figured this was worth some piece of mind.

[Photog]

Did more of my clutch spline project. Got the transmission off. Splines seem ok?

But, as I feared, I have engine oil in the bottom of the bell housing. What's involved in replacing the seal?
I know step one is remove the clutch...
Recommended tools?

It's a K75

[frankenduck]

The splines in the clutch plate are more prone to wear than the ones on the tranny.  Be sure to inspect those too.  If those are showing the "mountain effect" then it's probably not a bad idea to replace the clutch plate while you're in there.

[Photog]

No mountain effect to my eye.
I am thinking of replacing the clutch plate anyway, just because it's there and everything is torn apart already or will be more, to get the seal.
The bike has 47K on it, I presume it's the original clutch. It certainly has more miles left, but I don't particularly want to tear things apart more often than necessary. The clutch bolts have some oil on them, but the plate edge is dry, FWIW.
Motobins' prices look pretty good in comparison to what I see here at Max and A&S.

[billday]

Replaced fuel filter (the Mann filter they sell at Beemer Boneyard)

Installed the old (but still new in the box, never installed) Progressive shock that I bought off a guy from IBMWR

[frankenduck]

Photog. If the clutch assembly edges are wet then it's most likely the O-ring.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,332.0.html

[mystic red]

drained the 140 + installed the 90...

What would possess you to run the 140 in the final? Been runnin' 80/90 Amsoil since I've owned the mystic red. Amsoil, the slickest substance know to man. I've started using it in my tires. Better than Ride On for balancing.

[Photog]

I'll check again tomorrow, but am pretty sure it was dry. The oil looks to be flowing down the front edge of the bell housing, if that helps. Thee is a streak of fresh oil, before it gets to the grungy film at the bottom.
What size socket is needed for the clutch nut? Apologies if it's been answered somewhere before.

[frankenduck]

What size socket is needed for the clutch nut? Apologies if it's been answered somewhere before.

30mm.  (It's in the Clutch O Ring PDF in the thread that I pointed you to earlier.)

[Brickhead]

Changed my earl and filter and debugged it.

[Photog]

Got the clutch apart tonight. The there was a film of oil in the clutch housing, and there's oil accumulating under the clutch nut.
The disk is glazed, but it measures 5.5 mm. Deglaze and reinstall, or replace?

TIA

[Scott_]

Can you "deglaze" without affecting the balance? Otherwise I'd just replace it and know that it's clean and new.

[conybeare]

Completed my first water pump rebuild yesterday, rode about 30 miles today. So far the weep hole is dry, and no seepage between the cover/pump or pump/engine! Keeping my fingers crossed that this continues...

[conybeare]

Replaced 2 burnt out instrument cluster bulbs/installed LED cluster kit from the Duck... Looking good, bright but not too bright. Now that my speedo is backlit again I'll need a new excuse not to look at it.

[TaosBrick]

OK, so I wanna change my oil today - goin' to Mobil 1, 15W50. Owner's manual says to change oil filter cover gasket and oil drain plug gasket. How necessary is this really? Or should I have them on hand in case of breaking/ripping the filter plate gasket upon removal? Same goes for tranny and FD drain plugs. Or should I just say eff it and use all the old ones over again?

[DRxBMW]

OK, so I wanna change my oil today - goin' to Mobil 1, 15W50. Owner's manual says to change oil filter cover gasket and oil drain plug gasket. How necessary is this really? Or should I have them on hand in case of breaking/ripping the filter plate gasket upon removal? Same goes for tranny and FD drain plugs. Or should I just say eff it and use all the old ones over again?

Best to use new crush washers if possible. Any good brake shop can supply you with some copper washers which you can reuse after annealing. If you real careful, you can reuse the aluminum ones.

Cover plate O ring will last many a mile.

[frankenduck]

I change them every other time.

If you're going to change the filter then you really don't even need to remove the drain plug.

[DRxBMW]

Best to use new crush washers if possible. Any good brake shop can supply you with some copper washers which you can reuse after annealing. If you real careful, you can reuse the aluminum ones.

Cover plate O ring will last many a mile.

If you choose to reuse a OEM crush washer, do NOT press your luck with multiples. After two cycles,time to be a un cheapskate and buy new.

Telling you, the copper rings are GREAT, heat with a torch to cherry red, quench and your good to go. 

Here's a link for annealing aluminum washers. I have NEVER tried this so your on your own. However, stuck in a remote location without a nearby BMW dealer, worth a stab.

http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference-material/annealling-copper---aluminium-washers.aspx

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The issue with re-use relates to their softness and the fact that if the two surfaces that first compressed them left irregularities in the aluminum washer's surface then, if it doesn't line up just as it had in the first compression, you'll not have as good a seal.

I prefer copper myself, but that's become pricey and not used as oftern (I think largely because of cost). Copper can be annealed between uses and even re-formed if necessary.

If you are caught having to reuse the aluminum washers, then it can be useful to inspect them carefully and, if they show signs of raised ridges, you can dress them flat on some emerycloth on a flat surface, clean them off, and re-use.

Aluminum can be annealed too, it's just a lttle more difficult to do without melting the washer. A smear of soap or washing up liquid on the washer will turn black when the correct temperature is reached.

[TaosBrick]

Thanks guys - I went ahead and ordered all new crush washers and an o ring from the bend-overship in Abq., as this will be the first full lube-fluid change since buying the bike last summer and I've no idea of previous history. Hmm.. maybe I should change out th' coolant too.
 Hopefully, wife will be able to pick up these partz (along with new fork seals and "filister head screw" crush washer for upcoming fork tube replacement).
  She's taking a basic rider course down there this weekend  :2thumbup:.

  I was tired of the long face I would get every time I'd go out Brickin', so... I found her a '99 535 Virago. She's all of 5'1", so I don't think any amount of seat modification would make her feel safe or comfortable on a Brick. And.. this will be her first mc experience. The Virago's short and forgiving, and with only 4,600mi on it and it looking like it just came out of the box, I feel like I got a good deal for 2k. Whee!
  Maybe an R60 or R75 is in her future someday - those can be altered for short people.