BEST MOD: Installing an Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control on a K Bike

[mystic red]

Don't want to remove body parts to take pics but let me go refresh my memory a bit and I'll describe it in detail.
As for the heat, I figured the servo had to built to survive hot places. Look where it has to live in a car. And I think I went thru the instructions looking for them to tell me to keep it away from as much heat as possible but it never happened.

[sh00ter]

Don't want to remove body parts to take pics but let me go refresh my memory a bit and I'll describe it in detail.
As for the heat, I figured the servo had to built to survive hot places. Look where it has to live in a car. And I think I went thru the instructions looking for them to tell me to keep it away from as much heat as possible but it never happened.

much appreciate any assist.  thx!

[sh00ter]

Don't want to remove body parts to take pics but let me go refresh my memory a bit and I'll describe it in detail.
As for the heat, I figured the servo had to built to survive hot places. Look where it has to live in a car. And I think I went thru the instructions looking for them to tell me to keep it away from as much heat as possible but it never happened.

Hey Red - if you think of any specifics, would be much appreciated -- I'm going to attempt this again today/tomorrow.   Thx!!

[mystic red]

OK shOOter, pull all the right hand inner fairing ch!t. (knee pad, glove box, rubber air restrictor) Now grab your cruise servo and wriggle it down in front of the air box with the cable pointed back atcha. It'll just barely fit. There's only one place it can go. I snaked the vacuum line under the frame as well as the electrical to get to the left side. The cable comes out and turns towards the front of the bike, inside the fairing, and makes a big loop around the front to hook to the throttle bodies. Make sure to secure it in a couple of places so it doesn't rub something life threatening. :yow It fits on the left between the gas tank and the frame. I just zip tied the servo in place. It evidently doesn't need to be rock solid to work but you can anchor it pretty well with the ties. You may find a better way to do all this once you find the sweet spot but that's the readers digest version of how I did it.

All disclaimers apply.

[sh00ter]

OK shOOter, pull all the right hand inner fairing ch!t. (knee pad, glove box, rubber air restrictor) Now grab your cruise servo and wriggle it down in front of the air box with the cable pointed back atcha. It'll just barely fit. There's only one place it can go. I snaked the vacuum line under the frame as well as the electrical to get to the left side. The cable comes out and turns towards the front of the bike, inside the fairing, and makes a big loop around the front to hook to the throttle bodies. Make sure to secure it in a couple of places so it doesn't rub something life threatening. :yow It fits on the left between the gas tank and the frame. I just zip tied the servo in place. It evidently doesn't need to be rock solid to work but you can anchor it pretty well with the ties. You may find a better way to do all this once you find the sweet spot but that's the readers digest version of how I did it.

All disclaimers apply.

Thank you :)  When I get it to go, I'll send photos .. and the requisite royalty check, of course  :2thumbup:

[mikeinwis]

Or you could put the servo in the tail piece behind the rear seat, as I shamelessly ripped off from a guy in Calif.  the cable is long enough.  i velcroed it in place.
Photobucket not working well but will post if you're interested.
Mike

[sh00ter]

Or you could put the servo in the tail piece behind the rear seat, as I shamelessly ripped off from a guy in Calif.  the cable is long enough.  i velcroed it in place.
Photobucket not working well but will post if you're interested.
Mike

if you have photos id be interested.  going to hammer it out today.

[sh00ter]

Hey - all you with the audiovox cruise .... i have some behavioral questions about the cruise .. user error or config problem?

Here's what happens.

When I first fire up the bike, and hit the "set/decel" within a few seconds, the cruise takes over and the bike is set on cruise, everything works fine.

Then I hit brake, clutch, etc. and cruise disengages.   Now, is where it's weird:   Next time I want the cruise to re-engage, I hit the set/coast/decel button and nothing happens, hold it - same story.  If I hit the upper (accel/resume button) and hold it, it will hold the current speed after I hold it for a few secs.

The accel/decel function works just fine (up 1mph, down 1mph, etc.) when the cruise is engaged.   

Any ideas ??

[frankenduck]

Just tap the up once and it should go back to your prior cruise setting.

[sh00ter]

My cruise installation was giving me a little headache, taking different times to engage based on the speed, some were nearly instantaneous, others not so much.  Some of this, I judged was from the off-center angle the cruise cable had to pull on the throttle bodies to engage them.  Furthermore, where I had it mounted previously it did not have enough leverage to pull the throttle from lock to lock (not that you'd ever need it set on full bore)

Anyway, while I had the air intake and injectors off, I decided to rewire it a bit.  So here's where it ended up.



I actually looped the wire around the metal bracket that holds the you-must-not-turn-this-screw by slipping it in between said screw and the wee spring that it presses against.  I zipped it in place and now it pulls nearly parallel to the throttle cable and can engage quickly and reliably at nearly any speed in any gear (above the threshold of say 30 mph). 

I have it zipped to the throttle cable as well as the frame under the gas tank in a couple places, it seems very stable and has no play (important so it can stay engaged and in one place).

[mystic red]

Works alright with that much slack?

[frankenduck]

You voided your warranty. :hehehe

[sh00ter]

Lol....  Dammit, I was just going to return it for a k1600.   Yes red, it looks worse than it is, but works swell...

[Number 6]

Is there a way to use the stock clutch switch instead of the Audiovox kit?

[glennpm]

Hi,

I installed the cruise a number of years ago in the area just in back of the radiator. i figured this quite a while ago and see that other early K 2 valvers came to the same conclusion.

I started having trouble with my unit and the solonoids and was unable to fix them so just bought a new servo. i think the high heat was a contributor to my failure so I'm looking to now put it in the tail storage area.

Can someone please post a picture of two of installing in this spot and especially where to drill the hole?

Thanks!
Glenn

[glennpm]

Hi,

frankenduck was doing an install and provided some pics to me over the weekend. Thank you!

"Here you go.
1) You want it to come out below the rear hinge.
2) Make sure that you route it under the front hinge pin so that it doesn't get crushed in the hinge.
3) I put wiring to the servo in heat shrink tubing and route it out the back and the up along the left frame rail.  Like the tail lighting wiring goes up the right side.  I run the vacuum hose along with it but not too tightly zip-tied as I don't want to pinch the vacuum hose."

[noppo]

That's where I put mine and just zip tied it in place. Been there for 3 or 4 years now.

i'm doing this now! Below the seat is not available because of an Ohlin shock module. Haven't a clue about what to zip tie it to :dunno  i've looked and looked, and saw nothing to attach it to in the open space behind radiator fan.

Questions:
What is it tied to?
Regular ziptie?
Does anyone have a pic?
Can anyone generally explain the routing of the cable?

Any help would be great.  Thanks.

[mystic red]

That's where I put mine and just zip tied it in place. Been there for 3 or 4 years now.

i'm doing this now! Below the seat is not available because of an Ohlin shock module. Haven't a clue about what to zip tie it to :dunno  i've looked and looked, and saw nothing to attach it to in the open space behind radiator fan.

Questions:
What is it tied to?
Regular ziptie?
Does anyone have a pic?
Can anyone generally explain the routing of the cable?

Any help would be great.  Thanks.

No pics...just zip tie it to something...doesn't have to be rock solid cause it wedges in pretty tight anyway. You'll find a spot.

[noppo]

Well, after hours of toiling over the K1's new cruise control mod, it's all working and i can now give my bum shoulder (basketball injury) a rest from now on during long rides.  It's a remarkable modification to the K bike.  Frankenduck created a helluva modification for the K bike using the windscreen switch.  i highly recommend it for the untimid installer. 

A gigantic heartfelt THANK YOU shout out to Frankenduck for his unwavering support of my effort to get this installed.

For the next guy who installs the cruise control on his K bike, i learned the following:

* Wiring to the correct wire on the coil.  Double, triple check that you've connected to the right wire. Without the connection to the correct wire, the servo won't engage.  All other connections problems, if you have them, mean nothing until you know the servo will work. It won't work without the right coil wire being connected. And, you can't see an LED response on the servo from the coil wire connection, so check and verify.

* If you have issues, test each connection with your meter 10 times, and write the values down.

* Don't bother test riding the bike until ALL wires check out, and any residual voltage in the brake circuit (purple wire) is kept to a minimum.

* Follow FDs instructions, but also print out the manual on the sellers site for the cruise control unit.  The instructions for the unit contains specifics for how to test each wire for the servo, and are very detailed / helpful.  Not all of the seller's instructions are applicable for a bike install, but pairing FDs instructions with the manual for the cruise control will yield better results.

* The install cannot be done correctly without a voltmeter / multimeter.  You may get lucky without one, but Murphy's law will catch up to you on this one. There are just too many things that can go wrong on this install.

* Posi-taps / Posi-locks are great.  Buy many of them.

* It's not a quick install, and it's not plug-n-play.  Expect to put some time into it.

Hope the above is helpful to any future installers.

[F14CRAZY]

I need to troubleshoot mine...it isn't working even though Drake installed it...

I like how my bike is featured in a number of threads, how-to's, ebay ads...

[subforry]

One problem surfaced on a more extended trip Saturday.  It won't hold a speed greater than ~ 65 mph.  My first thought is the servo is running out of travel, which means I may have too much slack in the chain at the zero position.  Only other thing I can think of would be it is  not getting enough vacuum at the higher speeds necessary to maintain the more extreme throttle position.  Thoughts???

Check or replace the vacuum line.  The servo canister is easy to take apart.  Besides the vacuum diaphragm there is a manifold with valves that is controlled buy the circuit board.  The manifold has rubber o-rings to seal it and the valves use rubber stoppers.
I guess depending on the age climate any of these rubber parts could be cracked.  Murphs' kits sells replacement servo for $80.

[noppo]

Hiya!
 
I need some input on some CCS 100 troubleshooting.  The trouble is that it doesn't engage.

My bike has the K1100LT windscreen switch installed to control the cruise control.

Let me ask - when the key is turned on, the tiny red LED light on the servo should be on because Frankenduck's design was for it to stay on when the key is turned on regardless of whether or not A. the servo is engaged, or B. the bike is running, correct?

I can't explain why but when I turn the key on, the tiny red light LED on the servo does not turn on.  However it does turn on when I press the bottom part of the green switch (I hold it for more than 2 seconds), but when I release it, the LED light turns off.  If I remember correctly, it stayed on before when the key was on, but it's been a while.

Also, when I pulled the bike out of storage to get it inspected, the front brake switch was stuck so I used some contact cleaner on the switch and then it seemed to be ok by lighting up the tail light afterwards.

The brakes work fine, and the bike passed inspection last week.  The brake lights are fine too.

Questions:
Any idea why the servo LED light won't turn on when the key is on?  It's been siting for a while, but it started right up after putting a fresh battery in it.
Do you think the front brake switch could still be faulty enough to cause the cruise control servo to not engage?
Any ideas about why it won't engage?  Welcome any / all thoughts!

Thanks!! 

[Scott_]

If you have the older series that uses the engine vacuum, it's possible that the vacuum valve mechanism could be stuck.
I've experienced that with one of my older units.
IIRC I disassembled the 3-way 'valve' from the control board and very carefully did some exploring with a paperclip to free up the part that was stuck.
I re-assembled and all has been well since.

[noppo]

i think the servo is broken. The wire continuity tests work, and i'm getting +12VDC at the servo using the tester for all the right wires, and all other wires check out. The LED will simply not go on when the key is turned on. The LED only turns on when i hit the up or down on the LT switch.  Everything checks out at the relay box's white 4 wire alarm connector.  So, i can only surmise that the servo is simply not responsive.  If anyone has any ideas for how to test this thing further, please do chime in.  I'm all ears.

So at this point, i'm in search of another working servo or a new one.  If anyone knows of one, please send me a personal message via this site.  i have an address for something to be shipped to in the US, and i can pick it up in the future when i get back there, or have it forwarded by those at that address.

Thanks

[noppo]

The servo ain't broken!  The cruise control works now.  If you ask me how or why I can only give you my guesses because I swear I did nothing to it.  All I did was check wire continuity and the voltage of all the wires of the servo.  So, my guess is that the engine got hot today ( not excessive, but enough for the fan to come on and stay on in city traffic for a while ) and that did the trick to free up any mechanism in the servo that was either stuck or hung up thereby preventing the cruise control from engaging.  I shouted for joy in my helmet once it engaged, and I'm sure that somebody next to me heard it cuz I yelled in excitement.  Having cruise control on that K1 keeps my shoulder injury from playing high school basketball in check as I can give my right arm a break thereby preventing pain during the ride.  Ain't nothing like it.

When I took the bike to get it inspected last month the temperature was not hot outside. It was at the end of spring, and not yet summer weather so the fan only kicked in once or twice going to the inspection facility and back.  But today it's hot and the bike got warm.  Anyway that's my guess.

I hope the above can be useful to somebody who has one of these on their K bikes and they let it sit for a while before riding it again.  If you expect to use the cruise control again, give it a whirl, but if it doesn't engage let the bike get real hot for a while and try it again.

Thanks all.