Author Topic: K100 race bike (Read 71203 times)

frogy · « **Reply #25 on:** February 10, 2013, 05:10:23 PM »

I was planning on setting up a tube to put the filter to the right of the radiator,since there will be no more fairings to worry about.That will give me clean cool air,might even create a ram-jet effect :yes
As for cleaning the filter mor often,its no more work than keeping my twins out of trouble...heck Id relish getting my hands dirty more often if would get out of ear-shot of them yelling at each other (but I do love them so).

wmax351 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 10, 2013, 08:53:12 PM »

Quote from: frankenduck on February 10, 2013, 02:17:19 PM

Quote from: frogy on February 10, 2013, 08:40:30 AM
My worry was that I would be restricting , or changing for the worse the air flow,thereby changing my torque curve.

I think the biggest air restriction is the is the intake port on the mass airflow sensor.

Not even a true Mass Airflow Sensor. Just an Air Flow Meter.

I pulled mine out, now that I have the megasquirt, which uses manifold vacuum. I replaced the AFM with an inch long section of PVC pipe, sanded down on the outside to be 60 mm or so, and sanded on the inside to be thinner. Runs really nicely, and based on the manifold vacuum readings, reduced restriction at peak flow (~6000-8000 rpm).

frogy · « **Reply #27 on:** February 11, 2013, 08:13:30 AM »

:yow Great idea for unrestricted flow but Im doing this on the cheap.Only thing Im worried about is loss of power\torque removing the box.I hope by putting the K/N out into the clean cooler air I wont loose anything,I am not expecting to gain anything (except more work cleaning the filter

).

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #28 on:** February 18, 2013, 02:44:49 AM »

Hi, almost embarrassed to ask but after figuring out how to get the calipers off (push the pads back in as far as they'll go) I'm a bit stuck at removing the front wheel axle ...?
I think I may just need more force to loosen the Allen head bolt on the left side of the axle? I've undone the axle clamp bolts but is there something else before I break out the impact gun and the blowtorch...?!? Can anyone help a brother out!

frogy · « **Reply #29 on:** February 19, 2013, 08:07:36 AM »

I did not have any trouble with mine,nor did I see any bonding agent on the threads.
Did you try a light tapping with a hammer on the bolt side (and I do mean light),sometimes that frees up corroded threads?
Good luck.

frankenduck · « **Reply #30 on:** February 19, 2013, 08:31:13 AM »

Once you've loosened the 4 pinch bolts you need to completely remove the 8mm Allen bolt on the left and pull the axle out from the right side.

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #31 on:** February 19, 2013, 01:23:59 PM »

Yep, thought I was on the right tracks. Just gonna need a bit more persuasive action! I think the bolt has corroded itself into the axle. Thanks for the help.

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #32 on:** February 19, 2013, 08:34:10 PM »

Just needed a good tap with a hammer, and a minute with the blow torch, plus a ring spanner on the Allen key for extra leverage...
Not sure which one was most effective, but a crack was heard and the bolt is loose! Yay!

frankenduck · « **Reply #33 on:** February 19, 2013, 09:15:55 PM »

I use a 2 foot section of pipe on the Allen wrenches for stiff bolts. I refer to it as "The Persuader." :laugh

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #34 on:** March 10, 2013, 02:56:08 PM »

After stealing 30 mins on Sunday to get back to the project I found a problem...
The reason my front wheel spindle was hard to remove was because its bent! Quite an impact to do that I guess, explains the busted lock stop and dented tank though...
Worse to come was the front wheel... I'd already noted the rim damage and was prepared to get that fixed, but the whole wheel looks like a banana when viewed from the front! Eek!
So now looking for a new front wheel and spindle.
91 k100 rs anyone know what other wheels are the same? I guess the k1100, but any R series bikes. A quick look through eBay only uncovered a single overpriced item...
Not a great 30mins of project time! :dunno2:

TimTyler · « **Reply #35 on:** March 10, 2013, 05:28:25 PM »

A force strong enough to bend the front wheel as much as you say might have done other structural damage further back.

I'd want to be confident a bike is 100% structurally sound before racing it.

wmax351 · « **Reply #36 on:** March 10, 2013, 07:35:03 PM »

Quote from: TimTyler on March 10, 2013, 05:28:25 PM

A force strong enough to bend the front wheel as much as you say might have done other structural damage further back.

I'd want to be confident a bike is 100% structurally sound before racing it.

Worth checking, but K bikes have an incredibly strong frame. They aren't brittle either, so they don't crack. Depends how bent the front wheel is. I had a fender bender once, which bent the forks a bit and a lateral runout on the wheel. I asked the frame guy who I have had work done by (who does a lot of BMW work) and he said that K bikes rarely bend without a fairly serious crash.

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #37 on:** March 11, 2013, 01:35:18 AM »

I know what you mean about the forces through the bike... All seems good so far but once the motor is out I'll measure it properly.
Only other damage so far is twisted triple trees (easy to fix) busted off steering stop (slightly more tricky but an easy race bike bodge) and a dented tank (who cares!)
Hopefully no more surprises! I'm sure there will be... Its a project after all!

bikerboy · « **Reply #38 on:** March 12, 2013, 09:52:33 AM »

I have just found this thread and am amazed at what you have bought. I also bought a K100RS 16valve here in France just before Christmas. It was also a wreck with a bent front wheel, no disk pads left at the front, non working ABS, cracks and filler all over the top fairing etc.
I don't intend to do anything special to it apart from bring it back from the dead. This is how it looks now, 12 weeks after buying it.

frogy · « **Reply #39 on:** March 12, 2013, 07:36:06 PM »

Love the gold rims,and I know the Corbin seat is comfy.That green trim on the seat does not work well with the gold though.

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #40 on:** March 13, 2013, 03:24:23 AM »

Anyone out there have a front wheel for my k100rs race bike they want to sell?...
My eBay worldwide searching is only uncovering a lot of 18 rims off older bikes, and I need a replacement 3.5x17 for mine. I don't mind if its in bad condition with seized bearings as long as its straight. I'm willing to pay shipping from anywhere. Did I mention cheap is good! :2thumbup:
Help! :dunno

wmax351 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 13, 2013, 04:12:50 AM »

Quote from: gavthirtyseven on March 13, 2013, 03:24:23 AM

Anyone out there have a front wheel for my k100rs race bike they want to sell?...
My eBay worldwide searching is only uncovering a lot of 18 rims off older bikes, and I need a replacement 3.5x17 for mine. I don't mind if its in bad condition with seized bearings as long as its straight. I'm willing to pay shipping from anywhere. Did I mention cheap is good! :2thumbup:
Help! :dunno

You can straighten them.

bikerboy · « **Reply #42 on:** March 13, 2013, 05:14:05 AM »

Quote from: frogy on March 12, 2013, 07:36:06 PM

Love the gold rims,and I know the Corbin seat is comfy.That green trim on the seat does not work well with the gold though.

I don't like the seat either. I am thinking of getting someone to recover it with new foam and gel inserts, but need to spend the money on things like a couple of brake disks first.

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #43 on:** June 29, 2013, 05:29:26 PM »

I know it's been a while, but time for an update...
No pics though sorry, I'll get to those soon - well soonish!
Starting from the back the bike now has the r1150gs wheel fitted and centred, which meant using an r1150 caliper, disc and removing the standard rear disc and caliper so the wheel could move the 10mm or so to the right. The RAM shock is on, patterns made for the new rear sets, and new clip on bars fitted, those bars needed some spacers making to get the clamps from 50 mm down to 41.6, and the controls reaming out to 7/8 instead of 22mm. Also fitted a 1/4 turn throttle ( endless fiddling there! ) front forks have new seals, RAM springs (longer so no spacers needed) and 15wt oil. Got the front wheel straightened and a new front axle replaces the bent original. Oh yeah, and I got a hole in the rocker cover fixed.

Next on the list is, fabricating a set of rear sets, fork bridge, making up brake lines, cutting the rear frame loop, make a bracket to secure the race seat, remove the radiator fan, make a new lock stop (original snapped off), get a new battery, see if it starts, then start hacking into the 100kg of wiring! Still need to get a tacho but gonna wait til the bike is running first. Get a link piece made to take the 4 headers into a Suzuki fitting rear muffler I have. And about a squillion other brackets and tabs to either remove (easy) or make (more tricky!) not to mention the paint,tyres,general service, valve clearances, drive shaft etc, then fuel riding and adjusting!

Phew! Not much then!

I have a YB-9 battery which is much smaller and lighter than the standard one. Anyone know if it'll work. Not running any extras like abs, heated grips, lights, radio's etc so should still start it, but will it run the motronic and efi whilst the bike is running?

Better get to it if its gonna be ready for the Barry sheene memorial race in October...

frogy · « **Reply #44 on:** June 30, 2013, 07:27:10 AM »

Well at least you don't have much more to do... :yow

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #45 on:** June 30, 2013, 03:18:46 PM »

I know, it seems a lot when you write it down!
Plus there's there's the stuff I haven't found yet .... :yow

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #46 on:** July 08, 2013, 04:09:26 AM »

Starting to look like a real race bike now... :2thumbup:
But that list seems to get longer the more work I do :deal: :yow
Holiday coming up soon for me, but a ski trip with family and friends and a trip to watch the bmx world champs may eat up some project time, so I imagine slow progress - sorry! :dunno2:

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #47 on:** July 20, 2013, 11:48:21 PM »

Right today I had a simple task, to stop mucking about with bits and bobs and get it running!
Well, all was good; sparks, check
Compression, check
Fuel, errr dry plugs...
Couldn't hear the fuel pump doing much so decided to get started there...
Ever wondered what petrol with ethanol in does to rubber seals and pipes?
Wonder no more.....
Turns it to sticky black tar it would seem - great! :dunno
Not sure how long the old fuel had been in the tank... 18 months at least, probably 3 years!
Yuk!
Fuel pump dead. Hard wired it up. Not even a click or any movement at all...
Next step, clean it all up, buy new seals and hoses, try pump again - any suggestions? Then buy new pump.

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #48 on:** July 21, 2013, 04:04:22 AM »

Decided to strip the solid pump. Pretty easy really. Just prized open the top tabs / corrugated edge a few gentle taps with a mallet and suitable size piece of wood and out she comes. This is where it gets exciting....
Just as I had freed the seized end bearing / bushing we had a 6.5 magnitude earthquake here! Had to run and grab the bike as it was falling over ( now strapped down with ratchet straps )
Quite a bit of damage in Wellington, about 30 miles away, but all ok here. Moved a bit of furniture around though. Biggest quake I've ever felt! :yow
Completion of fuel pump overhaul continues another day!

gavthirtyseven · « **Reply #49 on:** July 21, 2013, 05:27:32 AM »

Just a quick one. How do you get this gooey ethanol degraded rubber off? My hands are covered and it stains everything. Got to try and have a parts clean up tomorrow .... Suggestions? Brake cleaner or wd-40 don't shift it. My hands took a good scrubbing with swarfega hand cleaner and sugar, but only the scourer and nail brush started to move it.... :yow
Should be fun... :clap:

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Author Topic: K100 race bike (Read 71203 times)