Water/oil pump seal question

[thebob]

Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.

[frankenduck]

Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.

Not sure if it will work but you might want to try using a proxy server:

http://freeproxyserver.net/

[sh00ter]

Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.

I have it downloaded into an mp4 file (you could windows media or quicktime to play) ... If you PM me an email address I'll send you a link you can download the vid.   Part2 oil pump replacement.

[conybeare]

I agree with wmax - assuming you have intermediate or so mechanical abilities, it shouldn't be too difficult. There is nothing particularly challenging about this job as long as do your research. Drawing the shaft through the seal straightforward. In fact, the new seals don't even have "blue goo" or anything on the inside, so there is really nothing to mess up. I think the metal inner part of the seal just fits tightly over the shaft, thus creating a water seal. Fitting the pump and cover back on w/o leaks could be tricky if you don't have much experience using gasket maker. Tapping in the oil seal might also be tricky if you don't have experience tapping in seals. Otherwise, it's all pretty basic.

As for the gasket maker, I use the older stuff - Permatex Ultra Black. Definitely read the instructions. You are supposed to apply, tighten just a bit, then wait a while, and then tighten down again. For this job that means you have to install the pump first, and wait until the next day to tighten it down more before you install the pump cover (b/c the pump cover covers some of the pump mounting bolts). Supposedly with Permatex's new "The Right Stuff" you do not have to wait.

IBMWR has an excellent write-up on this job. The YouTube video i linked to also has a "Part 1" sister video.

Good luck!

[thebob]

Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.

Not sure if it will work but you might want to try using a proxy server:

http://freeproxyserver.net/

I'm not going to mess about with a poxy server just to watch a video, although it does look useful.

[wmax351]

I agree with wmax - assuming you have intermediate or so mechanical abilities, it shouldn't be too difficult. There is nothing particularly challenging about this job as long as do your research. Drawing the shaft through the seal straightforward. In fact, the new seals don't even have "blue goo" or anything on the inside, so there is really nothing to mess up. I think the metal inner part of the seal just fits tightly over the shaft, thus creating a water seal. Fitting the pump and cover back on w/o leaks could be tricky if you don't have much experience using gasket maker. Tapping in the oil seal might also be tricky if you don't have experience tapping in seals. Otherwise, it's all pretty basic.

As for the gasket maker, I use the older stuff - Permatex Ultra Black. Definitely read the instructions. You are supposed to apply, tighten just a bit, then wait a while, and then tighten down again. For this job that means you have to install the pump first, and wait until the next day to tighten it down more before you install the pump cover (b/c the pump cover covers some of the pump mounting bolts). Supposedly with Permatex's new "The Right Stuff" you do not have to wait.

IBMWR has an excellent write-up on this job. The YouTube video i linked to also has a "Part 1" sister video.

Good luck!

Advantage of the anaerobic flange sealant: you can torque it down, then let it cure.

Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.

Not sure if it will work but you might want to try using a proxy server:

http://freeproxyserver.net/

I'm not going to mess about with a poxy server just to watch a video, although it does look useful.

I will post it in a half hour, when it finishes uploading.

Here is the file.

[GasStation]

I just received my parts from Max BMW (I have to admit, they are very proficient and proactive to helping those novices like me).

Since BMW parts are much much more expensive in Canada, I ordered some crush washers and a few extra seals just in case. I also ordered a spare Slip-ring seal and purchased the BMW Press-in bushing tool; Slip-ring seals are almost $40 in Canada. I will tackling this job next weekend, time is at a premium right now.

There appears to be a different type and amount of "blue colour" on the Slip-ring seal I received. Here's what I have on standby for this job:

[sh00ter]

I just received my parts from Max BMW (I have to admit, they are very proficient and proactive to helping those novices like me).

Since BMW parts are much much more expensive in Canada, I ordered some crush washers and a few extra seals just in case. I also ordered a spare Slip-ring seal and purchased the BMW Press-in bushing tool; Slip-ring seals are almost $40 in Canada. I will tackling this job next weekend, time is at a premium right now.

There appears to be a different type and amount of "blue colour" on the Slip-ring seal I received. Here's what I have on standby for this job:

Do you mind if I asked what the total package ran you?  What parts did you order for the job?  I know it's on my horizon, so I am just curious.  Thanks!

[GasStation]

It would be a pleasure to assist another fellow rider, that's why I posted the picture. The entire order was $111.47 + shipping/handling. I ordered two Slip-ring seals and the tool. I don't even know if I need the rotor and screw, but I don't care at this point in time; it's only $14.26. The big ticket items were the rotor, spacer bushing, shaft seal, slip-ring seal and press-in bushing.

Talk to Rusty Gill at MAX BMW, he was very helpful and professional. He sure knows his stuff.

[sh00ter]

It would be a pleasure to assist another fellow rider, that's why I posted the picture. The entire order was $111.47 + shipping/handling. I ordered two Slip-ring seals and the tool. I don't even know if I need the rotor and screw, but I don't care at this point in time; it's only $14.26. The big ticket items were the rotor, spacer bushing, shaft seal, slip-ring seal and press-in bushing.

Talk to Rusty Gill at MAX BMW, he was very helpful and professional. He sure knows his stuff.

Cheers, thanks!

[GasStation]

I am rebuilding my water/oil pump but need to confirm the direction of the oil seal installation.

The oil seal has an open side (one can see the tiny wire spring) and a closed/beveled side. The dude in the video seems to indicate that the open side of the seal is towards or facing the oil side of the water/oil pump. Is this correct?

I will post some pictures of my install tomorrow.

I had a hard time removing the old ceramic and oil seal. I have a 93 K75S and suspect it had never been done since production in 1993. I was worried about gouging the interior surfaces while banging away at those old seals with a screwdriver and hammer. I succeeded but had to resort to heat and a lot of patience.

I did get to see how an oil or coolant leak will migrate into the small dead space and enter a tiny passage vented in front of the crankcase just behind the water/oil pump.

[Rick G]

I am rebuilding my water/oil pump but need to confirm the direction of the oil seal installation.

The oil seal has an open side (one can see the tiny wire spring) and a closed/beveled side. The dude in the video seems to indicate that the open side of the seal is towards or facing the oil side of the water/oil pump. Is this correct?

I will post some pictures of my install tomorrow.

I had a hard time removing the old ceramic and oil seal. I have a 93 K75S and suspect it had never been done since production in 1993. I was worried about gouging the interior surfaces while banging away at those old seals with a screwdriver and hammer. I succeeded but had to resort to heat and a lot of patience.

I did get to see how an oil or coolant leak will migrate into the small dead space and enter a tiny passage vented in front of the crankcase just behind the water/oil pump.

Yes this is correct

[GasStation]

Can anyone tell me the purpose of this plug on water/oil pump?

[frankenduck]

To keep the coolant in?  :dunno

[Rick G]

It is the oil pressure relief valve behind it.

[GasStation]

OK, I am a dope! I pinched my oil pressure wire during the reinstallation and would like to replace that single wire harness. Unfortunately, that part number, 61121459120 is no longer available but has been replaced with part number, 61 12 7 665 811 which requires changing the oil pressure switch. I haven't had any luck finding a dealership that still has on old one in stock.

However, Motobins has a wiring harness, Part No.79879, made for the temperature sender and at least one of the harness connector ends looks exactly like it will connect to the oil pressure switch. I wonder if I can fit that wire in lieu.

[GasStation]

Can one assume that after a water/oil pump rebuild changing the oil + water seals, that it may take some engine running time for the seals to settle into place and provide a perfect seal? I ask as I have been getting to coolant drips through the front weeping hole.

[lukeman]

I don't think that you should be getting any fluids coming out after doing the install. It should be water tight from the get-go in my experience.  Are you sure that it isn't the seal of the water pump cover? The water pump seals are pretty fragile hope it went on ok.

 I had mine leak on me when I didn't get a perfect seal that is until i used the anaerobic gasket sealer I love that stuff!

[sh00ter]

Can one assume that after a water/oil pump rebuild changing the oil + water seals, that it may take some engine running time for the seals to settle into place and provide a perfect seal? I ask as I have been getting to coolant drips through the front weeping hole.

should not be leaking...

[GasStation]

I've put approximately 300 km on the bike since the rebuild and both seals seems to have settled into place.

On initial startup I noticed some coolant coming through the weeping hole general area. It may have been coolant that was sitting on the engine after a minor coolant spill when refilling the radiator.

I also got some oily residue coming out of the weeping hole which I attribute to the grease I used to lubricate and insert the oil seal and the shaft; the pump eventually warmed up causing the grease to melt.

I am confident enough that I have reinstalled my belly pan. 

I found a replacement oil pressure lead from our very own Frankenduck...  :2thumbup:

[ibjman]

I have read these posts for days! I still can not understand why they say that the oil pump seal goes in what customarily would be judged as UP SIDE DOWN. Commonly all oil seals with a garter spring on the "open" side must have that side placed with that spring and it's lip facing the oil that it seals from leaking. Hence the oil pressure from the pump forces the seal tightly around the shaft. The small hump or lip on the flat closed in side of the seal should be intended to protect the seal from foreign matter, dirt & grit.... However the taper in the pump housing appears to match this small lip on the outside of the seal. Can someone please verify in detail & without doubt which way in the oil pump seal is installed & why? Thanks......ibjman@cox.net

[Inge K.]

You`re correct about the spring at the oil seal should face the oil, and the closed end pointing away.
This is also how it`s described earlier in this thread.

Inge K.

[GasStation]

I have read these posts for days! I still can not understand why they say that the oil pump seal goes in what customarily would be judged as UP SIDE DOWN. Commonly all oil seals with a garter spring on the "open" side must have that side placed with that spring and it's lip facing the oil that it seals from leaking. Hence the oil pressure from the pump forces the seal tightly around the shaft. The small hump or lip on the flat closed in side of the seal should be intended to protect the seal from foreign matter, dirt & grit.... However the taper in the pump housing appears to match this small lip on the outside of the seal. Can someone please verify in detail & without doubt which way in the oil pump seal is installed & why? Thanks......ibjman@cox.net

lbjman,

Please refer to the posts #35 and #36 above as I reflected on your exact same point about the oil seal installation direction. Hence, I do not really understand your concern or post. In post #36, what you are stating above was undisputedly CLEARLY confirmed: the open side of the oil seal with the garter spring faces the oil.

I installed the oil seal using a 17 mm or 19 mm socket as a drift or press. If the seal is facing the wrong side, you will quickly find yourself hammering away on a socket with very little flat surface to transmit the force from your drift or socket to drive the seal into its recess.


 

[rocket23]

I'm gonna ressurect this thread for a couple months, I'm gonna throw a kit thru my water pump at some point., (I actually bought a used pump on ebay). So I hope this is a bolt off/bolt on fix for me. The used pump has 38 k on i;t so I have my doubts on whether it will have no issues when bolted up. I'm pretty adept when it comes to permatex, and haven't had a leak yet.......but we will see.

[JoePap]

I've tried twice to rebuild my water pump without success.  Still dripping from the drain hole.

I've followed the Youtube video



and the written instructions.

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/water-oil-pump-rebuild2.shtml

The pump feels tight after fitting the new seal.  At first it's too tight to turn the water impeller by hand.  If I use a hammer and lightly tap the impeller bolt a few times, it eases a bit and can be turned by hand.  But it still feels a bit tighter than it should be.

Whether it's tight or not, it's dripping so clearly not done right.  I've tried twice, with another new seal the second time around.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.