Author Topic: Some K gas tank questions  (Read 20735 times)

Offline Los_gatos

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 30
Some K gas tank questions
« on: June 14, 2025, 02:09:48 PM »
Hi, first post.

I just recently purchased a project 92 K75. There's a slight leak from the gas tank at the typical low spot along the seam. It looks like someone has tried to put some Permatex or JB weld on the outside of the tank to seal it, but it still weeps. The tank look good inside other than the low spot on the left side. I've searched the forums for potential remedies, but I still have a few questions:

1. I was thinking of using JB Tankweld on the inside of the tank. Is that advisable? Most posts I've seen suggest the outside, but didn't see any about using it on the inside.

2. I was thinking of then using red kote over the the Tankweld, or even without the Tankweld. Since most of the tank is in good should I just red kote the seam or most of the bottom?

3. If I use red kote, or por or something else, how do I go about blocking off the metal fuel lines to prevent clogging? Particularly the return line. The other lines I think I could maybe put a rubber plug over?

Thanks in advance.
  • Over there
  • 92 k75, 95 gs500

Offline triplek

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 54
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2025, 02:24:35 PM »
Have the seam welded to repair it. There isn't really an acceptable substitute.
"Every time you criticize my grammar, I like you a little bit fewer."

1995 K75 RTP, 1995 K75 RT, 1993 K75, two K75 frames, 1 fully assembled engine from airbox to exhaust tip and enough fairings and  parts to build another K. Soon.  ;)

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 6843
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2025, 02:43:15 PM »
And don't bother with the coating.  The aluminum is okay as long as you don't let stale fuel sit in it for years on end.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline blackie1

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 255
  • christchurch nz
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2025, 08:07:48 PM »
  • christchurch, new zealand , where else would u want to live, really
  • 1991 K75RT naked 67,000kms

Offline Duckbubbles

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 56
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2025, 08:59:46 AM »
I used a product called Kream or Kreem to coat the inside of the tank.  It is intended to coat fuel tank interiors.  I didn't coat the whole thing as they suggest but put it mainly in the trough made where the upper and lower tank halves are welded together. It is maybe 1/4 inch thick in that area at it's deepest.  Several years now with no problems.
I originally used JB weld externally but it finally started to leak again at that spot.

Frank
  • Austin, Texas USA
  • 1985 K100/1100RS
'85 K100/1100RS 40 years, 331,000 mi.
'23 R1250RS
'03 R1100S BCR #6/200
500,000+ BMW miles

Offline Los_gatos

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 30
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2025, 04:45:48 PM »
Thanks for the recommendations. I asked our local motorcycle FB group and found someone who would tig weld the leaking location. Would painting the seam with the red kote I bought help prevent potential future corrosion, or should I just forget about and don't let it sit for too long?
  • Over there
  • 92 k75, 95 gs500

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 6843
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2025, 09:43:34 PM »
Use the bike regularly and don't bother with coating the tank.  If you are going to leave it unused for an extended time either fill the tank with non-ethanol fuel and some Stabil or drain the tank completely.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline Los_gatos

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 30
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2025, 12:10:05 PM »
Here's a pick of the holes in the tank for those playing along at home.
  • Over there
  • 92 k75, 95 gs500

Offline Los_gatos

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 30
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2025, 01:43:30 PM »
Preliminary update: Had the tank welded on the outside a couple times. New welds kept exposing new holes to weep from. Tried seal-all on the exterior and that seemed to plug it up after a short trial.
  • Over there
  • 92 k75, 95 gs500

Offline natalena

  • ^ SuperNatural Motobricker
  • Posts: 742
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2025, 08:28:47 PM »
Sidebar: has anyone tried the aluminum brazing rods on a K tank? Looks like a magic solution if prep is really thorough.
  • MST
  • 1987 K75s #0919, '05 Sportster 1200C, '21 ARGO 8x8, '24 KLR650
"Hard to beat a 10x beaver, 'specially if you're gonna work it."

Offline Los_gatos

  • Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 30
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2025, 08:55:49 PM »
From what I've seen in other threads, it's hard to get the aluminum up to temp without over cooking it. I recently watched a ProjectFarm video and he had good luck with some fairly low temp rods.
  • Over there
  • 92 k75, 95 gs500

Offline Duckbubbles

  • ^ Motobrick Curious
  • Posts: 56
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2025, 09:45:21 AM »
From what I've seen in other threads, it's hard to get the aluminum up to temp without over cooking it. I recently watched a ProjectFarm video and he had good luck with some fairly low temp rods.
This made me think how about solder?  I don't know what it would take to make it stick to the aluminum, maybe flux?

Frank
  • Austin, Texas USA
  • 1985 K100/1100RS
'85 K100/1100RS 40 years, 331,000 mi.
'23 R1250RS
'03 R1100S BCR #6/200
500,000+ BMW miles

Offline Laitch

  • Faster than a speeding pullet
  • Administrator
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 11299
Re: Some K gas tank questions
« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2025, 11:19:34 AM »
Welding unites metals by melting them together. Rod or wire with flux or gas shield to prevent impurities in the bond is used to unite the pieces. Aluminum welding must be done smoothly and rapidly because of aluminum’s rapid rate of liquifying when it reaches the melting point. The heat and filler must be moved along rapidly or holes will be blown into the material being welded. Welding can blow holes in thin sheet steel, too, if it it isn’t done rapidly enough.

Brazing unites metals by raising their surface temperatures enough to adhere together using filler rod containing flux but not at a temperature high enough to melt them. The filler applied to the pieces creates a strong bond that can withstand vibration. The lugs that join bicycle tubes are often brazed. Project Farm is discussing brazing and brazing rod.

Solder is similar to brazing in some ways but uses a lower temperature to bond similar metals together. It’s more like glue. It isn’t the choice for filling holes. Usually patches are used over holes and united with the metal beneath by capillary action of solder and heat. Flux in the solder, or applied before soldering, prevents impurities in the joint.

Brazing would be the choice for an amateur attempt at repairing holes in an our aluminum fuel tanks' seams but plenty of practice should be done on sheet of a similar thickness and grade before the brazing attempt or the hole will grow during repair because the metal was overheated and melted during the fill process.
JB Weld seems to work well enough for most of us, if we're able to follow directions and don't ask too much of it. :laughing4-giggles:
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles