Rusty's K100 Scrambler (lets try that again)

[natalena]

Looks like when a buddy needed help cleaning a boat that sat at dock for a year...above waterline a beauty, below the line was a barnacle, bearded mess.
I'm impressed at how nice your rims look!
Keep those delivery driver's busy, you'll be first name basis in no time.

[RustyK]

Once you completely strip things down it looks worse than it really is..... or is it the other way around? 

Anyways, this is probably the most attention this bike has had in years - and its cleaning up well. A mate fed some of the parts you can put in a sand blasting cabinet through one and its certainly looking good! Video/Gif links

[Kaos]

one thing is for sure. This is going to take some time. 

yeah.. it will take more than "some" time.    . Best advice is; have a beer at hand, music you can mentally zone out with, a good brush and no plans on doing it fast.
think i've spend a good weekend brushing mine to a shiny state from a similar starting point as yours.

[RustyK]

Well we're into the nuts and bolts of the thing - literally :)

I'm trying to clean up the motor a little in order to paint soon - as once the cases are split I don't want to have dust go into the motor




The rear main seal is definitely leaking (this was cleaned up a little)








Sprag looks good


Opening the waterpump - I was just hoping the shaft was okay. Well, turns out everything was okay - but in order to prepare and paint it I need to strip it anyways. It was a real pain getting the cover off / break the seal.








Shaft is fine - the marks are superficial.

[Laitch]

Excellent photos as usual. 

[lewisnort]

What exactly are you using to get results like that? I feel like an idiot, after hours and hours of work prepping for paint this is the state mine is in, any tips at all? Especially getting down in all those crevices.
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[RustyK]

Wire brushes on drills - several types and sizes. (see one in this photo)



To get into the tighter spots I have a selection of wire brushes for my dremel too. Its a fine balance between not just spreading oil around - early on it works just to go mad with the wire brush. Brass apparently is even better - but as I'm painting soon I dont really mind a bit.

[lewisnort]

Wire brushes on drills - several types and sizes. (see one in this photo)


To get into the tighter spots I have a selection of wire brushes for my dremel too. Its a fine balance between not just spreading oil around - early on it works just to go mad with the wire brush. Brass apparently is even better - but as I'm painting soon I dont really mind a bit.

I think i need to just bite the bullet then and get a proper dremel instead of the cheap tiny plastic crap one from halfords, do you know the brand of yours or where you got the little brushes from?

What paint are you going with? I got some simoniz etch primer and their 'one coat tough paint' in satin black. I'm hoping 2 cans of etch primer will be enough

[RustyK]

I just got a legit Dremel and some of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QN2YV1B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[RustyK]

The bottom of the motor is the worst paint/corrosion wise. I also dont have much space and I'm too anal about making an oily mess that I'm doing the motor in 3 parts.

My plan is to do the 3 covers last - as they can be done easily independently. So lets start with the bottom - I've ordered all the bits needed for the rebuild (seals, bearings etc), flipped the motor and torn it down. The counter shaft 2 bolts and 2 hex bolts we incredibly tight - I was extremely worried about stripping/breaking them - but they eventually came. I'd feel better about replacing them - but see they dont seem readily available. Anyways, I'm over thinking things I'm sure.

The normal oil pickup silicon.




Masked it all off


Went to town with cleaning it - including dremel etc


Now on to paint - this is experimenting a little - I've gone with VHT - SP148 primer, SP124 Gloss Black, and SP145 Gloss clear lacquer.



A fair bit of learning here - the hardest was the recesses and corners. This is where it looked the best, but in corners and hard to reach places it was a bit light.


Overall - I'm happy with it


The only issue is I dont know what I'm going to do to "cure" it. Its supposed to sit in an oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes - well, this wont fit. So I may try a heat gun for a bit, but its going to be another month plus before I can run the motor to cure it.

[lewisnort]

The only issue is I dont know what I'm going to do to "cure" it. Its supposed to sit in an oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes - well, this wont fit. So I may try a heat gun for a bit, but its going to be another month plus before I can run the motor to cure it.

It's looking really nice, I did a fair bit of research on what paints and finishes to go for before I went with a 'one coat' and no clear coat. but from what I've gathered, while the finish will be really fragile until you do cure it, It'll still cure when you get to it?

How are you going about masking off the inner spark plug crevice section of the head? I was thinking about stuffing tissues in the holes and calling it good spraying the area with the cam cover off.

[RustyK]

It's looking really nice, I did a fair bit of research on what paints and finishes to go for before I went with a 'one coat' and no clear coat. but from what I've gathered, while the finish will be really fragile until you do cure it, It'll still cure when you get to it?

How are you going about masking off the inner spark plug crevice section of the head? I was thinking about stuffing tissues in the holes and calling it good spraying the area with the cam cover off.

Yeah, I think I've over-thought this - as before I just used Simoniz tough spray paint before on a radiator and it was perfect. I think I may stick to that for the bellhousing and gearbox - who knows. I've got an entire rack of different paints.

I'm not too worried about inside the spark plug crevice - will use the same and I've got these little rubber stoppers - but otherwise some kitchen towel will be stuffed in there. I plan to do that and the top of the motor with the covers off - the bottom is just being done first so I dont have to slip it. :D

[lewisnort]

Wire brushes on drills - several types and sizes. (see one in this photo)


To get into the tighter spots I have a selection of wire brushes for my dremel too. Its a fine balance between not just spreading oil around - early on it works just to go mad with the wire brush. Brass apparently is even better - but as I'm painting soon I dont really mind a bit.

Just thought I'd report back that I did try some brass dremel brushes as well though they don't seem to work nearly as well as the steel, all I managed to do was transfer a brassy gold finish to the still oxidised block.

[RustyK]

I think you need to get a selection of things.

This is hands down the best and fastest set of brushes I've got https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-straight-shank-preparation-brush-set-3-pieces/380jf

But they do not get into corners and gaps very well. The brass set is actually smaller and helps. And then the dremel just to clean up the bits that they cant get to.

But I've now found something all these were struggling with - the fins on the sump - because its deep. I went and got some of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-wire-brush-set-2-pieces/132xg and its helping get into the grooves.



And then stuff that fits goes into my mate's sandblaster. This is more effort than I ever thought it would be. 

But its paying off.

On a side note - my custom stuff arrived!   



Its a bit of a cheat - but I think it sorts the weird frame hump at the rear I'm not a fan of.

[natalena]

Fantastic outcome, looks great. I've cured large objects with the oven by pulling the rack partway out, door open, and making a tent with aluminum foil sheets folded tightly at the overlaps. It keeps at "jerky making" low temps fine, and should hold 200f easily.
Downside is the smell, and if you're already taking kitchen towels to plug holes on the block, there's a good chance punishment will be concurrent sentencing. ;)

[RustyK]

Well price turned to absolute heartbreak. The VHT can recommended SP145 GLOSS CLEAR ENGINE ENAMEL - so I got some - and applied it a week after the original engine enamel was applied.

I didn't think I coated too thickly on the first 1/2 quotes, but I suddenly noticed this.


 

I scratched it and it flaked off afterwards.  (╯°□°)╯( ┻━┻

There are other small spots that this happened - but well hidden in groves etc and this is the underside of the motor. So the question is whether my OCD wins and I re-do this all.

In the mean time - I decided to apply the very widely available Simonez to the gearbox housing - sooo much easier and simpler - and I think it looks great! As there is not primer its not as smooth, but I actually like the semi imperfect finish - more of a matt feel too. I think it wont work for the engine covers as you want those to be smooth - but the rest I think its going to look awesome - aaaaand it will be really easy to touch up any scratches/issues as they happen.







Decided to turn my attention to the starter & alternator. I'm a little scared of the alternator - but as this bikes only got 44k miles it will be more for painting and less for brush replacement.

The Starter - although the positive cable to the starter was to tight when trying to undo it it moved the power post - well, opening it up there were 2 surprises.


The starter is home to some unwanted guests - not sure how as this is nearly a sealed unit.


Here is whats left of the plastic brush guide thingy


Does anyone know if you can buy them separately? Rather a waste to part with £20 for that (comes with a brush)

So cleaned up and ready for paint!

[FTR]

You are about 3 months ahead of me so it's really interesting to see the choices you make and how you overcome the problems.

Do you mind me asking where you got the seat and rear hoop ? They look great - I was toying with whether to try to straighten the line of the top of the frame / tank out as it bugs me.

[RustyK]

It's from Riot in Spain - https://riotmotor.com/seat-bmw-k-series-model-6-for-subframe-loop-long/

Really nice quality - although they are not very responsive on communication so you just need to wait a LOT. Also, import to the UK was just crazy money so I had it shipped to mate in the EU. Thanks Brexit!

[FTR]

Thank you, I will give them a shout. Im some way of needing it at the moment but getting it sorted will be a big help in planning the rest of it.

And 100% with you on Brexit, I still get angry about it. I was planning to try to move to Finland on retirement - if I could swap my UK passport for a Northern European one id do it tomorrow.

[RustyK]

Yeah, you sort of need the hoop and seat to do any planning for electrics, cutting the frame, etc. And the order took 3 months so you better order now! :)

[lewisnort]

I think you need to get a selection of things.

This is hands down the best and fastest set of brushes I've got https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-straight-shank-preparation-brush-set-3-pieces/380jf

But they do not get into corners and gaps very well. The brass set is actually smaller and helps. And then the dremel just to clean up the bits that they cant get to.

But I've now found something all these were struggling with - the fins on the sump - because its deep. I went and got some of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-wire-brush-set-2-pieces/132xg and its helping get into the grooves.

Those brushes look absolutely ideal for the fins, definitely picking some of those up after work.

[RustyK]

Spent some more time making brand new 35 year old parts! Popped over to my mate with the sand blasting cabinate.





Cleans up well - but its fairly pitted.




He's done the heavy lifting on these parts - they look like new!


My first view of my colour ideas was .... not what I expected. :(





Got the missus' input and the new color looks a lot better




I also did a lathe induction at our local community workshop - and the first thing I did as my solo project was the waterpump seal driver.






I'm now aware this will only work to drive the seal in - I didnt have the depth/height to make it work with the actual shaft - I'll have to use the bolt and washer method (unless someone can actually meassure that up for me :) )

[lewisnort]

My first view of my colour ideas was .... not what I expected. :(

I actually really like that deep copper colour

[RustyK]

I think the camera is kind to it. I think that would have been fine in small doses, but I want the wheels to match and I dont think it would match the gold shock tubes either.

[Kaos]

I love a copper look on a bike. But it wont match gold.
But nowadays everything is fluid, so you could write on it that it identifies as gold or has a golden personality.
I love your work man.
Also Ive been cleaning out the garage, and found a hall sensor with new oem bolts and stuff, a 32t waterpump refurbishing set -new- And some other stuff you mentioned. Shoot me a dm if interested.