Dead clutch

[mavam]

40k on the clock. I'm only about 4000 miles into ownership. I replaced the clutch cable earlier this year as it broke at the lever. Started to get some slip and adjusted at the clutch arm and went back to normal. Now it's slipping again, in every gear and I can't get anything adjusted correctly as a result. The adjustment bolt is about ready to fall out if I back it out any further. The clutch arm is hitting the exhaust and the freeplay at the lever is almost non-existent. 

I have some mechanical ability, but not much time or patience, and oh, no garage--just my driveway. I'm questioning whether it is worth it for me to even try to do it. To those who have, what sort of time commitment is it?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

When I bought my first K bike, a '94 K75RT the first thing I had to do was pull the transmission apart and tighten the shifter grub screw.  I did that job in my son's driveway in about 7 hours of non-stop work. 

Getting to the clutch for service can be done in a long day with little or no help.  Most of the job is removing and reinstalling the rear end of the bike to pull the transmission.  If you are a little unsure, you can make an easy three day job of it.  Day 1, get the transmission off, Day 2 do the clutch, Day 3 put it all back together.  If you work steadily and stay organized, I would expect the total job to take about 10 hours start to finish.

Beyond the bike's tool kit, it would be good to have the following tools that you can get from your local ChiCom hardware store(A.K.A. Harbor Freight):

- a set of metric ball-end Allen wrenches
- a set of metric combination wrenches
- a set of metric sockets and a ratchet with extensions(I use a 1/4" drive, you mostly use the 10mm socket)
- a Phillips screwdriver
- an 18mm combination wrench(a 3/4" wrench will work) for the shock mount nuts
- a 3/8" breaker bar with a 30mm socket(got mine at NAPA) for the clutch nut
- a 3/8" torque wrench(I'm pretty sure you can borrow one from AutoZone)
- a big rubber or plastic mallet
- a jack(you can use your car's scissor jack in a pinch) and a stack of 9" chunks of 2x8 lumber
- 2ea 8mm bolts about 4" long with the heads cut off to support and align the transmission when you pull it off and reinstall it
- a box of plastic ziploc sandwich bags and a Sharpie pen to organize parts
- penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or P Blaster(much better than WD-40)
- Spline lube
- copper anti-seize
- Clutch o-ring and rear main seal(as long as you're in there)
- a couple saw horses and a 2x4x 4ft to steady the bike.
- a couple feet of light rope or wire to hold the clutch arm to prevent tearing the clutch rod boot(an easy to damage and very expensive part)

This is a good job to do on any bike that is new to you.  It give you an opportunity to touch almost every part in the back half of the bike and reassemble it with anti-seize and proper torque after inspecting it.  Replacing the clutch o-ring and lubing the clutch splines is a job that needs to be done at this point in the bike's life.

Some other jobs that would be worthwhile as long as you're in there is to replace the brake pads and rear brake lines, and look closely at the transmission gear position switch which lives in an awful spot and over time can cause problems if neglected.  It's also a good idea to check the alternator monkey nutz and clean the starter motor.

[Laitch]

40k on the clock. I'm only about 4000 miles into ownership. I replaced the clutch cable earlier this year as it broke at the lever.

Did you get a new BMW OEM cable?

[Motorhobo]

First, if this is your first K-bike, are you aware that it's a dry clutch so you have to employ it differently than a bike with a wet clutch? You can't ride the clutch and feather it like wet-clutch bikes, you'll kill your clutch in no time if you do. Don't ask me how I know except to say that I was a favorite client at the BMW dealer 20+ years ago for my frequent clutch jobs until a wrench there took pity on me and told me to either stop riding the clutch or just give them the PIN to my bank account and make sure it's always fully stocked.

In case you didn't know, it's basically a car clutch and you have to treat it as such, i.e. use it to engage the drivetrain and then get off it. In fact, I only use the clutch to start from a dead stop. After a while you get a feel for it and speed match to shift gears without using the clutch at all.

If you did know that already, then pardon my presumption. So to your second question.

• Yes, you can do it in your driveway.
• No it's not easy if you've never done it before. You'll have to learn the basics like lifting and stabilizing the bike and disassembly, skills which you will need for any future work you do.

On the bright side, if you do it:

• afterwards you will be much more mechanically inclined than you are now.
  
• There are tons of detailed instructions here on how to go about it
• People here are very helpful and will support you as long as you don't nag, needle or dis people.
• You will save shitloads of money

So while I appreciate the time and patience issue, bottom line is, your options are skinny unless you have a bottomless stash of cash to put into mechanics who know much less about K-bikes than the people who reside here. Your best best is to learn how to do the work yourself and be prepared to do all the requisite maintenance in the future. So listen to Gryph -- get those tools and go for it. And make sure you read all the pertinent threads here before you get started - people are helpful here but aren't into hand-holding.

Good luck!

[mavam]

Thanks for the reply. I do understand the difference in clutch types. I was once a Ducati owner in the past.

I guess I forgot about this thread until getting the notification because three days after I posted this I went down in rain, scraped the hell out of my knees and banged up my shoulder. First time going down in 10 years. Bummer.

Unfortunately the bike is in a bit worse shape as it doesn't heal like I have. The fairing looks like hell and the right footpeg bracket snapped. I limped it and me home. The ruined fairing, worn clutch, and cold/snowy weather have prevented any forward motion and I'm not sure what my plans are at this point.

[Motorhobo]

I'm really sorry to hear about the bike damage, but at least you're OK. I'm in Maryland so I know about the crappy weather recently. Sun and warming trend starting today if that's any consolation. And parts available on eBay...at least it wasn't totaled.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Sorry to hear of your mishap, I hope that you aren't too beat up and will be back in the saddle in short order. 

As far as your bike, there are lots of parts out there courtesy of our friends who are hacking Bricks into cafe racers.  A little cruising on eBay and you should have all the parts you need for not a lot of money.  It's one of the real benefits of owning one of these nice machines. 

Can you post a photo of your bike's damage?  I'm guessing you did a low side slide in a turn.  I've done a couple of those, and suspect the damage is mostly to the lower fairing and the mirror, with the main fairing mount kinda pushed over.  If you had saddlebags on the bike, one of them is pretty scuffed up as well.  Other damage, depending on what side hit the ground is possibly a coolant hose and the crank or valve covers. 

Let us know what you need to get back on the road.  There might be a few members here who can help you out.

[mavam]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I think you can weld the footpeg plate.  I can recall seeing a repaired part in the past.  You might want to take it apart and to a welding shop to see what they can do.  I would think they could do it for their minimum price as it shouldn't take more than a half hour. 

That lower fairing always seems to break right where yours did.  I've had two of them break right there.  The bad news is that right side lowers are about 1/8 as available as the left side for some reason.  I suspect it's because right turns at intersections are sharper and the lean is greater.  In any event, that's the problem. 

The good news, if there is any, is that if you don't have crash bars on your bike you can use either K100 or K75 RT/LT lowers.  Or you can take a shot at repairing yours.  Only drawback to repairing is that if you don't have all the supplies, it will cost more than a replacement.

The mirror glass can be replaced at a shop that does auto glass.  Some of them can cut replacement mirrors.  If you know someone who is into antique cars they can point you at somewhere to get it done.

[mw074]

 Fresh gloss black paint on mirrors and lowers. Footpeg plate needs to be painted. I also have saddlebag parts or complete bags. If interested, email me. Thanks, Mike

[stokester]

Where are you in Virginia?

I have a Handy MC lift and all the tools necessary.