Looks like I will be Picking Up a K110LT on Saturday

[Paul_Waterloo]

Does anybody know the part number for this air box hose? I can't seem to locate it on Max BMW's website, mine is old and cracked.

[mw074]

 31 1 461 972    HOSE   0.13    1     $48.58

[Paul_Waterloo]

Thanks Mike, I did find an ebay auction for one, I just don't see how it is the same hose (at least in your picture), here is the picture from the auction: don't see how it is going to bend in the two places.



Here is another picture of how it has to go on.....do you think the hose above will fit?

[mw074]

 Paul, I do recall that I had a problem matching up the hose for a 1993. I believe that there was a mid-year change for a short run and the dealer kept getting the wrong one. The correct one was much cheaper.

[Filmcamera]

Actually, I know it is confusing but I think the part you need is this one = if you look in the Max BMW fiche is appears in engine block mounting parts section not the airbox section as you might expect.

10

11 15 1 461 835 VENT HOSE

0.11

1

$48.39

[/t][/color] The part MW posted is actually a fuel hose I think, if you look at the fuel injection system part if the fiche the same part number appears there as well.

[Paul_Waterloo]

Actually, I know it is confusing but I think the part you need is this one = if you look in the Max BMW fiche is appears in engine block mounting parts section not the airbox section as you might expect.

10

11 15 1 461 835 VENT HOSE

0.11

1

$48.39

[/t][/color] The part MW posted is actually a fuel hose I think, if you look at the fuel injection system part if the fiche the same part number appears there as well.

You are correct! Put that number in ebay, and came up with the correct hose, thanks!

[mw074]

Good job filmcamera.

[Filmcamera]

Good job filmcamera.

AMHIW... lol


If anyone needs an unused fuel hose I am your man 

[Paul_Waterloo]

AMHIW... lol


If anyone needs an unused fuel hose I am your man 

If you are referring to one of the three fuel hoses, the one that has the bend on it, and you have it for sale, I need it.

[Filmcamera]

I do actually but since I am in Costa Rica it is not very practical so sell it to you.   I am going to hold on it it I am sure I need it one day.  Sorry I was mainly making a joke about how I knew it was not the Z hose you were looking for...

[Paul_Waterloo]

I thought I would post a few pictures of my new friend and his house. I see I have not introduced him yet.

Here is where he did most of his eating, on top of the engine case.



I see he ate in the foyer also.....but inside the house was almost all bedding.





I am sorry to say that he must of passed away from something, he did not look healthy. There was enough bedding to fill about half of a trash can from your bathroom.

[RobP]

I paid $500 + the previous owner's $150 bill at the service center where they had it.

I'm amazed that the service center would have tried to do any work at all and billed the family $150 with all the obvious mouse nest rubbish.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I'm amazed that the service center would have tried to do any work at all and billed the family $150 with all the obvious mouse nest rubbish.

Storage?

[Paul_Waterloo]

They had two hours into diagnostics. The mouse nest was not obvious to me even when I picked it up. If any repair was authorized, that shop would of been sorry they took on the work. Nothing major, but a complete rebuild of the brakes and fuel system at a minimum. Then they would of figured out the battery was 0.00 VDC when they said it was replaced last year (even when I disconnected it, it came up to 0.245 VDC, how does that even happen unless all cells are shorted?).

It would of went on and on and then they would of found the mouse.

[TommyT]

They had two hours into diagnostics. The mouse nest was not obvious to me even when I picked it up. If any repair was authorized, that shop would of been sorry they took on the work. Nothing major, but a complete rebuild of the brakes and fuel system at a minimum. Then they would of figured out the battery was 0.00 VDC when they said it was replaced last year (even when I disconnected it, it came up to 0.245 VDC, how does that even happen unless all cells are shorted?).

It would of went on and on and then they would of found the mouse.

I had the same problem, I picked up a K75 project bike which had sat a long time. After the typical old gas clean up and replacing the injectors I was able to get the bike to fire up but could not get it to run above a idle. I finally started to check the air filter and found what you found. The air box and MAF was so jammed with mouse nesting that vane in the MAF could not move. A lot of cleaning and a new air filter and the bike runs fine now. I should have know better because when towing the bike home in a trailer, I stopped for gas and checked the tie downs on the bike. While doing that I saw a mouse running around the floor of the trailer. I figured it came with the uhaul trailer. Ha I was wrong.

[Paul_Waterloo]

LOL! You had a mouse that you displaced! He cursed you when you stopped for gas!

Mine was probably 75% of that! We need a mouse house thread!

[TommyT]

LOL! You had a mouse that you displaced! He cursed you when you stopped for gas!

Mine was probably 75% of that! We need a mouse house thread!

Mouse thread, maybe, but at least add it to a check list on what to check when bringing K bike to life after sitting for a long period of time. amazing how the mouse find these areas in bike and cars (my truck had one in the cabin air vent box). I could see a adding a step to Vogel's trouble shooting guide..."if the motor will not increase in RPMs from an idle check for a mouse nest in the air box", ha.

[Paul_Waterloo]

So I was able to put the clutch back together and install the transmission. Didn't need no stinkin' clutch alignment tool!

I learned a pretty cool trick from the interwebs this week from a friend regarding how to perfectly align the clutch plate.

First, I had to get some new pressure plate bolts (okay, I believe they are really called screws), and they are M7 x 25mm long. You can't find M7 bolts anywhere. But I finally found some with hex heads at Menards. So I bought them for $0.99 each and pondered for a while if I could use them. I decided to use them. Both the BMW screws and new screws have Grade 8.8 marked on the heads. Then I weighed four of them (two of the BMW screws stripped and had to be drilled out, hence the replacement screws) and the new ones are slightly lighter. Then I considered the geometry for residual imbalance, and figured it's not going to make a hill of beans difference.

The heads of the hex head are a little smaller in diameter, and the torque spec is 17 N-M (12 FT-LB) if I recall. The clutch pressure plate spring really keeps the threads engaged on these screws.



Four of the BMW ones are 41 grams, so 10.25 grams each.



The new ones are 38 grams, about 9.5 grams each.



Used the lube from Beemerboneyard to lube the points as outlined in the manual including the splines.



So here is how to align the clutch without a tool.

1. Put everything back up in the correct order and start all pressure plate screws. Then go around around in a cross pattern and tighten them until you can still move the clutch plate, but it stays in place after you move it. It might have to be tight enough so it will only move if you hit it with a rubber mallet.

2. Install the clutch push rod and eyeball the center of the clutch, move it as required. Note that the clutch push rod can really be moved in all different directions, use common sense to make sure it is centered.

3. Put the two studs in the engine housing so you can ride the transmission in on these. Put the transmission up on them and slide it in. Make sure you lift the ass end of the transmission so the side mounting holes to the frame line up vertically, you'll know the transmission is going in straight at that point.

4. As you start to engage the transmission input shaft to the clutch disc, you turn the transmission output shaft to get it to line up the splines. If the clutch pressure plate is loose enough and close enough to center, it will move and the transmission will engage. If you get all the way to the dowel pins, you are in. I then used a rubber mallet to push it about 1/2 way on the dowel pins to ensure it was good.

5. Carefully remove the transmission, keeping the ass end upright and parallel to the engine, so you don't upset the clutch disc.

6. Using a torque wrench, tighten the pressure plate screws to 75% (about 12 N-M), the clutch disc won't move now.

7. Repeat 3, 4, and 5 to ensure everything is good.

8. If good, torque the pressure plate and the install the transmission for good.



All home and torqued up. I think this method is probably more fool proof as compared to using a tool. My friend who owns a shop does this with cars. Takes an extra 30 minutes to pull the transmission back out and torque the pressure plate, but you know it's going back in. How many times did you spend HOURS on this?

[TommyT]

You wrote :  "Used the lube from Beemerboneyard to lube the points as outlined in the manual including the splines."
I can not find what points you are referring to, I guess I have a different manual. I currently have my clutch out and will soon be putting it back in.

Did your drive shaft just come off your transmission output shaft when you removed the swing arm? Mine didn't and will not after many tries to pull it off. In the Chris Harris video it just came out with the swing arm like it was nothing.

[Paul_Waterloo]

The driveshaft did not come off with the swing arm. You have to use a leverage point on the transmission case to the driveshaft. I will mock it up later and take a picture. It was not obvious to me, and I still can't remember how I did it.

 On page 167 of the factory manual for the K1100 (download from this site) you will find this:

[TommyT]

The driveshaft did not come off with the swing arm. You have to use a leverage point on the transmission case to the driveshaft. I will mock it up later and take a picture. It was not obvious to me, and I still can't remember how I did it.

 On page 167 of the factory manual for the K1100 (download from this site) you will find this:

Thank you very much. I will download that manual. The K75 clutch looks like the same as the 1100. I am waiting on parts, hopefully soon I can start to put mine together.

Chris Harris must have edited the shaft release trick out of the video I watched. Ha

[Paul_Waterloo]

Did your drive shaft just come off your transmission output shaft when you removed the swing arm? Mine didn't and will not after many tries to pull it off. In the Chris Harris video it just came out with the swing arm like it was nothing.

So here are a couple pictures of the driveshaft and the transmission output shaft.

Here is the driveshaft after removal, you can see there is a clip in there, that engages a relief cut on the transmission output shaft  to keep it from moving axially (if you didn't know, just click on the picture and it will make it full size):



Here is the transmission output shaft, I have already lubed it, but you can see the relief cut on it at the beginning of the shaft, right after the taper, that's what the clip engages on.



In order to get the shaft off after pulling the swing arm, you need a lever to pop it off, see where the screwdriver is inserted? You might have to put the transmission in neutral if you can to get it to rotate so you can get to the proper point on the driveshaft to get in the shaft. Just give it some pressure, it will pop out no problem. Now that I look at the design, the taper on the transmission output shaft must be there so the ring naturally rides up on it during INSTALLATION, opens up and then hits the relief cut and falls into place.

You can't tell that I have very large screwdriver, but it is.



I rotated the driveshaft a bit to get this angle, you can only get into 180 degrees (90 degrees each opposite of each other), if you are on the other half of the driveshaft, you can't get the angle to get the screwdriver in.

[Paul_Waterloo]

So she is almost ready to start! Good thing I went through all of this before starting. Need a few more parts and then the big day comes.

First, while I have your attention, I filled the transmission with gear oil, I was surprised that there is no over spill to show you when it is full. I just added 850 ml of gear lube that I basically measured out, is that correct? Just fill it with the prescribed amount? No other way to check it?

This weekend I put the rear end back together, took a little figuring out how to get the boot between the transmission and swing arm engaged, but finally got it when I lifted the driveshaft above the stop in the swing arm. Also, it's not very easy to get the final drive started in the driveshaft, luckily my brother was other and we used a long screw driver to lift the driveshaft above the stop so I could start the final drive.

Also changed the coolant. So all the fluids are now fresh.



The brakes on this bike had crystallized brake fluid in them, instead of trying to rebuild the rear brake master cylinder, I bought a used unit for $50 on eBay, appears to be working, flushed the lines, just need the new brake pads so I can see how good it works, but if you push down on the pedal, the pistons start coming out of the bores, so I think I'm good.



Put all the ABS stuff back, the foot pegs, alternator, starter, wiring, grounds, etc.

[Scott_]

Older bikes used the rear shock spanner wrench as the dip stick.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10156.msg86455.html#msg86455
BMW issued a 'dip stick' in the tool roll(newer versions) to be able to measure the transmission fluid level.
It is a flat 'L' shaped metal strip with a line marked 'max' on it.

[Paul_Waterloo]

Thanks for posting that, went out and measured it with the depth gauge on my calipers and it looks like it's about 0.020" overfilled. I'm calling that one good.