Looks like I will be Picking Up a K110LT on Saturday

[Paul_Waterloo]

I recently purchased an 03 K1200GT (about a month ago), just finishing up some maintenance on it. When I was at the dealer picking it up (they do not sell BMW's, mostly Jap stuff, just had mine used), he asked if I would be interested in another bike. So we went and looked at it. Needs a fuel pump and front brake work at a minimum, I will be doing all the maintenance on it and get it started. A customer's bike that is now too old to ride, and the family was getting it ready to sell, but it's too expensive for the dealer to repair for them.

I told them that I would buy it, but it took a while for everything to fall into place. Going to pick it up Saturday. Will use it as a Corona virus garage project to keep my sanity. I have loved working on my GT in the past few weeks.

I will let you know if I get it on Saturday, been reading this forum for the past month, SO MUCH information here. Pictures of bike, has 39K miles:







If you are interested in seeing my maintenance work on my K1200 here is the link.

https://www.k-bikes.com/forums/42-k1200rs-gt-classic/47565-did-first-time-maintenance-yesterday.html

[johnny]

greetings paul_waterloo...

 

j o

[Paul_Waterloo]

So I picked it up today. I paid $500 + the previous owner's $150 bill at the service center where they had it. $650. It's pretty nice, I actually love the bike but hope I don't have to put too much money in it. It has some cheap battery that requires replacement (it's only a year old and completely dead) and I know it needs a fuel pump and front brake work.

I will post a bunch of pictures of the journey. I am looking forward to getting it up and running and riding it, love the seating position on it, plus love the size.

[AtLarge]

Congrats.  You certainly started out at a decent price.  Everything you do yourself is money back in your pocket.  Good luck!

[Scott_]

Sounds like a steal at that price... It's worth more than that in just parts.

[Paul_Waterloo]

So had to drive down to Peoria from Chicago, met the previous owner's daughter and got the bike.



After getting home, I gave her a quick bath. I have no idea how the dust got on this bike. I don't think it was stored outside, but OMG, the dust under all the components is crazy. It's everywhere. The paint is in pretty darn good shape and I'll be able to clean everything up really nicely.





I was hoping to find $$$$ in the bags, but was nicely surprised to find these bags:



I could not get the rear case to open, can somebody tell me how to get the darn latch open, thanks!



Today I took all the bodywork off. It's pretty much all there.



There are some creatures that have been having a nice "snuggle in place" on top of the engine over the years.





I drained the oil, changed the filter and filled her back up.



I then went and drained the fuel tank (I think the dealer added quite a bit of gas during troubleshooting), and WOW, the plastic and hoses inside were TRASHED! Need a new fuel pump, whole assembly, hoses and I want to replace the fuel tank level sensor. Maybe somebody has some used components they want to get rid of?











Will be nice to totally clean all these parts and you can see my K1200GT. I am enjoying myself.

[Paul_Waterloo]

What do you guys think of aftermaket fuel pump assemblies. I found this one on ebay. Probably a very standard question and I didn't search.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-43mm-Fuel-Pump-Kit-BMW-K1-K75-K1100-from-01-93-16141341231-FPK-231K/254244694898

[Martin]

I've been running a Chicom fuel pump since mid 2017 with no problems. I was told it would fail so I used to run with the still good OEM pump in the tail as a backup, but this has now been replaced with a new Chicom backup. Recently did a 1400 Km 3 day run in 40 C plus temperatures which will test any pump and it didn't miss a beat. See here http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg86054.html#msg86054
Regards Martin.

[johnny]

greetings...

enduralast is a known brand... make sure you know your oem numbers and do your own doo dillergence so you getts the right stuff... some sellers donts knows what fitts what...

id stick with these folks at this point... same seller as your ebay link... they gotts it going on...

www.euromotoelectrics.com

j o

[milq]

I hate you right now Paul....sweet deal!

[Scott_]

For the rear trunk, you have to depress the little round button before you can lift the handle the remainder of the way. The function is to permit the removal of the case from the bike and let you carry the case by the handle without the lid flying open on you.

[mw074]

I have various new fuel pump assembly parts as well as good used pumps.

[Paul_Waterloo]

I have various new fuel pump assembly parts as well as good used pumps.

I am interested in a fuel tank sending unit, fuel pump plus all the other parts that I need such as the holder as you have posted. I tried sending you a PM, but I don't know if this site has PM's or if I just don't have enough posts to send them. Can you email me nuclearrep at gmail dot com thanks.

[mw074]

Send me an email and I will reply with my phone number or call you if you prefer.  mw074@comcast.net

[volador]

Great find, very rare Orvis limited edition integral case liner bags

Some links for your K journey

Check parts compatibility with BMW MAX Microfiche, BOBS BMW, REAL OEM

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx

https://parts.maxbmw.com/BMW___BmwMotorradK.html

https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/microfiche/BrowseSeries.aspx

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?kind=M&arch=1

https://www.ascycles.com/BMW-Motorcycle-Parts-Fiche

Cross reference parts like Bosch pn#'s, etc....  http://partsplusecat.com/
No spaces in the part number

Parts Vendors

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/

https://www.capitalcycle.com/

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/

https://www.tills.de/

Headlight relay stuff if you chose to add one

https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=268.0

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4962.msg30932.html

http://culayer.com/product/matchbox-headlight-relay/

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
 Eastern Beaver site is a great reference for electrical connectors,plugs, etc...

http://www.k100-forum.com/

http://www.kforum-tech.com/Tech-page.html

http://www.kforum-tech.com/electrical/EFI/bike-wont-start-EN.htm

http://www.kforum-tech.com/Downloads/electrical/diagrams/interactive_diagrams.htm

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/k100tshoot/K100.Troubleshoot.Start.2018.pdf

http://kbikeparts.com/index.htm

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/ckb.new2k.htm

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/ckb.tech.toc.htm

http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/IgnitionSwitch/

http://www.verrill.com/moto/moto.shtml

this site has a lot of good info and breakdown pictures in the tech and tech resources sections for K1100 alot of the parts are on K75 & K100

http://www.k11og.org/forum/index.php?sid=2df953dde5715fd9001fbe69edec5ad0

https://ibmwr.org/index.php/k-bike-tech-articles/

This site has all kinds of technical specifications on all the BMW models    http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/mechanicalpages/kseriesmechanical.htm

http://largiader.com

more K-bike info Just bought a 2V

Just bought a 4V

[Paul_Waterloo]

volador, thank you very much!

[Paul_Waterloo]

So after talking to Mike from Michigan earlier this week, he recommended that I go as far as taking the transmission off to inspect and lube the clutch splines. So that's what I've been doing.

First while I have your attention, I will ask my question:

How in the heck do you get the battery carrier out of the frame? It's a jigsaw puzzle that I can't figure out. Because of it's "X" shape, I don't see how it clears the frame. When I pull it off the mounting studs, the front of it is basically wedged under the alternator cover. Please help Calgon man!



Here is the top view, I just don't get how it comes out.



Here is the final drive input, it basically had no lube on it, or a very tiny bit, but it great shape.



The swing arm side. When I took the boot off, it had about an ounce of oil, I don't really see where it came from, it's been sitting for 10 years, both the final end and the transmission were full, I'm not going to touch anything. Either the seal will seal up or get worse. It's not that hard to get back into.



I haven't looked at it closely or the procedure closely, but it will be interesting to see how this boot goes back on.



The transmission side had minimal lubricant on it. When I pulled that clutch pin, OMG, it was like a horror movie! Never seen anything that long!



And here she is in all her might in the garage right now. I am having fun! Just scored a used fuel tank sending unit for $85! Buying parts now, the brakes need A LOT of work.

I plan to do the rear end, put it back together after significant cleaning and then I can wheel her into the shed next door and really continue to evaluate how I can do everything required without throwing tons of money at her. I don't want her to be an expensive whore, I like cheap ones!

But I do want to get her running again soon. I would say no more than six weeks.

[Martin]

While your at this stage replace the GPI bolts with stainless steel Allen bolts and clean the unit and waterproof it.  I used Plasti Dip which was renewed recently after 20 years with no signs of degradation, there are heaps of other waterproofing agents.  Also fit a grease nipple to the clutch arm.
Regards Martin.

Clutch grease nipple 2.jpg (38.33 kB . 768x576 - viewed 774 times)

[Paul_Waterloo]

Thanks....what does GPI stand for?

[Filmcamera]

It stands for Gear Position Indicator

[Paul_Waterloo]

I removed the transmission easily today, but I took the alternator off, was able to easily remove the battery carrier and then I was sliding it out on some studs I had and the transmission vent hit the starter motor. I just removed the starter motor and BOOM, it so easily came off.

I have to remove the pressure plate and inspect the clutch, but then I can clean everything and start reassembly.

I HOPE I REMEMBER HOW TO PUT THIS DARN THING TOGETHER!

 

[Martin]

Take piccies and make sure you align all the marks on the clutch assembly. If the marks are absent make your own, but don't remove them when your cleaning. Zippy bags and a marker pen can help separate different bolts and their location.
Regards Martin.

[Bon Jon Bovi]

Take piccies and make sure you align all the marks on the clutch assembly. If the marks are absent make your own, but don't remove them when your cleaning.Zippy bags and a marker pen can help separate different bolts and their location.
Regards Martin.

Um. Yeah that. 

[volador]

just a friendly reminder

[Paul_Waterloo]

Thanks for the tips, they are very helpful.

Took the clutch off today, two of the six screw heads stripped, drilled them out. Then it was a super challenge to get the pressure plate off due to the pins being stuck in everything behind it. But I got it. Now I have to either find new screws locally, or I have a package of misc. bolts from eBay coming tomorrow, so I will see if I have any OEM ones in there or buy new.

I took some old head or cam bolts I had laying around and cut the heads off and used them to pull the tranny, oh so easy.





Everything was absolutely pristine in there. Original clutch. I guess you have to inspect it, but darn, wish I had a magic 8 ball and didn't have to take it apart. Oh well.

The friction material measures 0.200" to 0.203", limit it 0.177", it's almost new. I'm not replacing it.



I don't have a clutch installation tool, but figured I would use this, a 13 mm socket with a wrap of tape around it and then the clutch push rod, probably add one turn of tape on it also.





I cleaned it up also and I am pretty much ready to start re-assembly, at least on the rear end so I can get it rolling again.