Painting the brick

[Filmcamera]

Since I, like most of the world, am stuck in the house I thought I would take the opportunity to respray the brick. 


As oftens seems to happen once I started I have now decided to do more a little.  So I am planning to do the frame, engine, gearbox and swing arm next.  What is generally considered the best match for the satin black colour of the frame etc? Also is the bottom half of the tail section where the rear brake light is mounted painted the same satin colour? 


This is my first ever respray job so I am bound to make a bit of a mess of it but I have plenty of time and am trying to do as much prep as I can before actually spraying.  Pics will follow...


Stay well and stay safe wherever you are.


And


STAY THE FUCK AT HOME!


lol

[Martin]

Rustoleum Canyon Satin Black seems to be a close match.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

Thanks Martin!

[Martin]

Preparation, preparation, preparation is key to a good outcome, that and don't try to cover with one coat. Multiple light coats are better. I haven't painted a whole bike for over 25 years but I had more success with an air brush as far as finish is concerned. If using spray cans keep the nozzle clean between applications.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

I am using a compressor with a gun.  Yeah in my research the main thing I have heard is that the prep is everything.  Luckily most of the old paint job was not too bad so most of the prep is just scuffing it up with 400 grit ready to accept the new paint.  Though I am a little torn, if that is all I have had to do should I prime it still or go straight to top coat?

[Martin]

Trouble in QLD is the humidity unless you have a dryer fitted water gets into the paint.

[Filmcamera]

It is pretty humid here as well, the rainy season is due to start in a couple of weeks. I do have a little device that is supposed to help remove water from the air, we shall see.

[Martin]

There are plans on line on how to build a dryer using desiccant, as against the back and forth tubing method. I might have to build one eventually.
Regards Martin.

[RobP]

When I repainted my K100RS, I sanded all the colored parts with 400-grit, then sprayed on some very thick coats of epoxy primer to fill scratches and other imperfections.  Sanded each coat with 400-grit before moving on to color coat and clear coat.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I like using rattle can clear coat.  It saves a lot of work getting the viscosity right and setting up the gun, not to mention the clean up when you're done.  Last couple jobs I've been using this 2k stuff.  If you throw it in the freezer right after you use it you can keep it from setting up in the can for two days.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SprayMax-3680061-2K-Glamour-High-Gloss-Clear-Coat-11-8-oz-1-Case-6-Cans/362071612205

Another option is to make a deal with a collision shop to shoot the clear in their booth.  If you shop around you might be able to get it done for not much more than the cost of the paint.  Paying a pro to do the clear can be a lot more efficient than buffing out the runs and orange peel you are pretty sure to have.  Not to mention the bugs that won't be in the pro job because it was done in a proper paint booth.  Figuring the cost of a buffer and compounds with the clear, the break even is about $250 to have a pro shoot the clear, not to mention the time you spend sanding and buffing your f-ups.

[Filmcamera]

I had considered that to be honest, do all the prep and just take the parts to a guy to paint.  This is CR, it would probably cost me $200 to have them do base coat and clear - it feels like a cop out though.  I am stuck in the house for the next God only knows how long, seems like a good time to screw up and learn from my mistakes...

[volador]

I had considered that to be honest, do all the prep and just take the parts to a guy to paint.  This is CR, it would probably cost me $200 to have them do base coat and clear - it feels like a cop out though.  I am stuck in the house for the next God only knows how long, seems like a good time to screw up and learn from my mistakes...

That would probably be $200 well spent and time saved to read "War and Peace" or try decoupage

You have Earl Scheib or Maaco painting in CR ?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I had considered that to be honest, do all the prep and just take the parts to a guy to paint.  This is CR, it would probably cost me $200 to have them do base coat and clear - it feels like a cop out though.  I am stuck in the house for the next God only knows how long, seems like a good time to screw up and learn from my mistakes...

Have you ever done a paint job before?  Gun control on a big flat object like the side of a car is one thing, but smaller complicated stuff like the fairing lowers can be sort of tough to get clear to flow out without runs or sags.  You gotta keep moving, but not too fast.  Stop for a second and you have a big run down the part, go too fast and the surface will look like 80 grit paper.

You can almost get away with murder putting down the base.  Just be patient and do a lot of light coats, but clear has to be wet.  That's where someone who does it every day has the advantage of experience.

Do the prep, prime everything, make the parts perfect and shell out the cash for a pro job.  Then strip the frame and do a really good job on it.  Detail every bit you take off, it will keep you plenty busy.  A proper job can keep you busy well after your incarceration has ended.

[billday]

I don't know anything about painting, and https://www.expresspaint.com/ helped me a lot when I did my bike.

Stay safe!

[Martin]

Make sure you use a good quality clearcoat.
Regards Martin.

[herseyb]

skip the clear coat,  it

[Filmcamera]

Tempting but I am going to go with clear coat.  Since I got the street triple the brick is mainly used for gentle weekend rides with my wife. AS such it should look its best!

[Motorhobo]

Believe it or not, I've had pretty good results with a rattlecan. I found a paint shop here that mixes water-based BMW paint into a can including metal chips. As everyone else says, it's all about the prep, the only thing that doesn't look excellent on my metallic black brick is where I f**ked it up. If you're doing anything but metallic black, be advised that the color of the primer will affect the outcome in a big way. I tried to match Mystic Red for my Parabellum fairing using a gray primer and got a much darker red, not a match at all, but good enough for bad rock-n-roll so I left it.

I also highly recommend the SprayMax. You can get an excellent result, probably better than you'd get with your compressor and gun. Not to mention the time saved with mixing and cleanup which is a serious PITA with two-part clear coats.

Also - please...don't do this dumbass trick with the sidestand. I was amazed to hear I wasn't the only moron who ruined 2 days of work through complete ignorance.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9315.25.html?PHPSESSID=adf401e456b4cc0fd5b8d957a0f8adf3

[volador]

Believe it or not, I've had pretty good results with a rattlecan. I found a paint shop here that mixes water-based BMW paint into a can including metal chips...
Also - please...don't do this dumbass trick with the sidestand. I was amazed to hear I wasn't the only moron who ruined 2 days of work through complete ignorance.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9315.25.html?PHPSESSID=adf401e456b4cc0fd5b8d957a0f8adf3

Paint the brick with water-based paint really never heard of that.
You been through a lot I say a prayer for you. Stay safe

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Also - please...don't do this dumbass trick with the sidestand. I was amazed to hear I wasn't the only moron who ruined 2 days of work through complete ignorance.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9315.25.html?PHPSESSID=adf401e456b4cc0fd5b8d957a0f8adf3

Yeah, you really gotta a be a royal dumbass to park a full tank on the sidestand a couple days after a new paint job.  Damn!!!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

One other point, unless you use 2K Urethane, which is only slightly more toxic than the cyanide used to execute criminals, expect the paint to take at least a month to get to full hardness.  It gives you time to buff out the orange peel, but is very sensitive to things like fuel and imprints from things like tank bags that are left in place for a couple days.

[Filmcamera]

Good to know, thanks!

[Motorhobo]

Paint the brick with water-based paint really never heard of that.
You been through a lot I say a prayer for you. Stay safe

Water based has come very far since most US states started banning oil based paints. It's worth looking into. It's the clearcoat that provides the epoxy protection and shine anyway.

[Filmcamera]

OK it turns out I totally suck at this.  I am pretty frustrated.  I have tried three times to do some smaller parts and the results are just rubbish everytime.











I have watched dozens of Youtube videos etc but just cannot seem to get it right.  I either put on way too much paint and get sags and runs r too little and get weird patches, the last picture is some sort of chemical reaction I am guessing. 


Sadly the virus situation has left me unemployed for now so I do not really have the option to give up and take it to a shop to do.


Right now I have the choice of leaving it off the road or putting it back together and riding with no paint job, unless someone here can give me some miracle advice that is.


Help!


 

[herseyb]

plastidip and ride, brother.  I will put your Ratbiker BMW Society patch in the mail.  Plastidip peels off easy when you are ready to get it done professionally.