Looking for help researching noise/vibration problem

[The Mighty Gryphon]

One other thing.  With the engine off, pull the clutch in all the way and let it snap out.  Do you hear a clank as the arm hits the muffler? 

I also had that problem with the slack in the cable allowing the arm to rattle on the muffler.  Made a heck of a racket.  Fix is real easy, take up about a mm of slack at the adjuster and readjust the bolt at the pushrod.  Alternatively, you may be able to move the exhaust down a way from the arm a little.

[bmwcyclist]

if you hadn't done so already, remove the throttle body air adjustment screws, clean them, clean their ports, replace their o-rings, reinstall them then redo the TB balance.

I can’t seem to locate the part number or size of the o-rings on the throttle body adjustment ports (see attached)

[The Mighty Gryphon]

You're looking for the gasket ring.

16    13 54 1 461 261    ADJUSTING SCREW   0.01    3     $10.87
ONLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH :
--    13 11 1 257 819    GASKET RING                        3     $3.00

It's not shown on the diagram, so it doesn't have a reference number.  The fact that it's labeled as a choke shaft o-ring adds to the confusion.

[bmwcyclist]

Thank you! Do I need 3 as indicated?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Probably wouldn't hurt.  If one is bad, the others may be bad as well.

[Laitch]

I can’t seem to locate the part number or size of the o-rings on the throttle body adjustment ports (see attached)

You're looking for the gasket ring.
16    13 54 1 461 261    ADJUSTING SCREW   0.01    3     $10.87
ONLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH :
--    13 11 1 257 819    GASKET RING                        3     $3.00
It's not shown on the diagram, so it doesn't have a reference number.  The fact that it's labeled as a choke shaft o-ring adds to the confusion.

Terminology is the result of inaccurate German translation of English. Examples are common in the fiche. When you see the line ONLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH:, the part without a diagram reference number that follows that line relates to the part with a diagram number above that line.

[bmwcyclist]

Thanks again, they are likely the same vtron O-rings I have in my garage but for peace of mind I ordered them from MAX.

[Laitch]

. . . for peace of mind I ordered them from MAX.

If it were only that simple. Oh yeah.

[volador]

Thanks again, they are likely the same vtron O-rings I have in my garage but for peace of mind I ordered them from MAX.

If it were only that simple. Oh yeah.

Oh yeah sing it Muddy!

Let us know if you get some M&Ms with your order?

[Laitch]

Oh yeah sing it Muddy!

That's Lightnin' Hopkins.

[bmwcyclist]

UPDATE

Compression test = Done. Reasonable and similar for each cylinder

IMG_7198.jpg (45.17 kB . 768x576 - viewed 539 times)

IMG_7197.jpg (62.37 kB . 768x576 - viewed 530 times)

Injector install = New injectors, new o-rings, cleaned injector pipe, replaced injector balance rubber caps

Port clean and 0-ring replacement, cleaned and done.

Exhaust mount check = replaced stock mica gasket checked all mountings

When I went to balance the throttle bodies I still could not get them to balance. The rearmost cylinder needs to be backed all the way out and still does not balance to the center cylinder



With the adjustment screws all the way in the front and center cylinders balance well.



A few weeks earlier I had sprayed the throttle bodies with carb cleaner and did not see a drop in RPM. I don't know if perhaps I was concentrating on the top of the bodies or not but this time I was out of carb cleaner so I grabbed the silicon spray next to me and the RPM drops hard when I spray the bottom of the throttle body of the front and middle cylinders.

No idea if this relates to my noise issues but obviously I will have to fix this first.

[Laitch]

I grabbed the silicon spray next to me and the RPM drops hard when I spray the bottom of the throttle body of the front and middle cylinders. . . .I will have to fix this first.

You've got leaks. You're on the right track. Check the z-hose crankcase breather, too. You will need to find all leaks and stop them, probably by replacement with new parts. After that, you'll likely be able to balance the throttle bodies. That will mean the engine will have more power at takeoff and likely rattle less.

[bmwcyclist]

You've got leaks. You're on the right track. Check the z-hose crankcase breather, too. You will need to find all leaks and stop them, probably by replacement with new parts. After that, you'll likely be able to balance the throttle bodies. That will mean the engine will have more power at takeoff and likely rattle less.

Do I need to use the single use clamps?

.

[Laitch]

Do I need to use the single use clamps?

That's up to you. Read this thread—all of it. The width of the band is critical.

[alabrew]

I went with the suzuki clamps but was not happy with how they fit and recently replaced them with the factory oetiker clamps. Cost difference is small.

[billday]

When I did my intakes back in 2012 (time flies) I used the 5388K32 worm drive clamp from McMaster-Carr (1-11/16" to 2-1/4" diameter range). As I recall, when you assemble everything you have to arrange the clamps with care so none of the worm drives foul anything. Width-wise they are spot on.

[bmwcyclist]

New injectors, new air filter, new intake manifolds, new air intake manifolds.

Sync'ed like a charm at idle and higher RPM.

I am not getting a consistent "click" with the TPS will need to read up on adjusting that now.




Also what the heck is this??? Found it on my wiring harness when installing the airstack box.

Photo Mar 21, 10 32 09 AM.jpg (40.53 kB . 768x576 - viewed 463 times)

[The Mighty Gryphon]

It's a blue glove.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

And it's holding the high attitude plug on the harness.  There's a matching thingy that you plug into it when you get high.  It leans out the mix so you don't cause too much globull warming or something.

As to the clicky thing, connect an ohmmeter between pins #9 and #3 on the big Jetronic connector under the seat.  When the throttle is closed you should have 0 ohms, and when the throttle is cracked the resistance should go to infinity.

[Laitch]

Also what the heck is this??? Found it on my wiring harness when installing the airstack box.

This is what fits into it to optimize the mixture at high altitude ≥6000ft. It's called a contact ring by BMW. 61131459504  The system's worth has been given mixed reviews.

[bmwcyclist]

Thanks!!

The ohm meter was MUCH better than listening for the clicks.

All back together.

Rider too tired to test ride today, will see about tomorrow.

BTW, I did notice when setting the idle that I was getting intermitten noise from the area of the alternator. That is a bummer as I replaced the bearing in the bell housing in the fall and bought a brand new alternator, monkey nutz and cup-connector thingie.

[Laitch]

Anytime a thingie is installed instead of a part, trouble is likely to follow. 

[bmwcyclist]

Anytime a thingie is installed instead of a part, trouble is likely to follow. 

It's not like I used a whatchamacallit.

[Laitch]

It's not like I used a whatchamacallit.

The outcome could be better with one of those. Points are given for a high syllable count.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have found that a Harbor Freight multi meter is much cheaper(and accurate) than getting a pair of hearing aids to do that click thing.

That noise could very well be the clanking/tapping of the balance shaft.  If it is intermittent and around the idle rpm, I would just ignore it.  As I think I said earlier, it's part of the bike's charm and, as far as I can tell, doesn't hurt anything.

And the blue glove.  Hang onto it.  They are getting damn near as valuable as toilet paper.  I have brought mine in from the garage and have them well hidden.  Last Thursday a clerk at Harbor Freight told me she had to break up an argument over a box of those gloves.

Like they say, "from my cold dead hands".