Had an unplanned get-off...

[beemrdon]

Hey folks,

I had an unplanned get-off on my K1100lt as I hit a patch of black ice going down Mt Charleston at about 60 one evening a couple monthe ago. The bike and I slid down the road (seperately) before we came to a stop. The bike was still running in 5th gear when I flipped the kill switch. All that being said, now the ABS doesn't work. ???????
Anyone have any ideas what could be the problem?
.......It was an expensive night all told.

[Scott_]

Check the codes, then we can help better.
There should be a write up in the tech stickies to help you read out the codes without a code reader.

[K1300S]

Giving us a clue as to the type and extent of the damage in the accident would be helpful.

[natalena]

I hope you're OK, without long lasting injuries. Mt Charleston is silly cold this time of year.
If the bike took a hard flip/slide out, I'd be looking at brake lines/system closely.
Unplanned get-offs are bad .. planned one's at the track are just as miserable.

[Laitch]

In addition to Scott_'s suggestion, here is a link to a collection of code information and diagnostic process for later Motronics like yours might have. I hope you are back in the saddle sooner than you might anticipate.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Hope you're well and getting your brick roadworthy for the summer.  That black ice is why I stay off the road unless the temperatures have been above freezing for at least one day.

As far as the ABS fault, the first thing that comes to mind is that the brain may not be happy with a situation where the rear wheel sensor says the wheel is turning and the front wheel sensor says the front is not.  That situation may create a front sensor fault code.  Laying on it's side with the engine running in 5th gear could feasibly trigger that fault code.

Personally, I would check all the brake lines, and make sure the brakes function properly.  Then I'd check the fault code, reset it, and see if it came back the next time I rode the bike.  I wouldn't expect any really bad damage to the brake system.  From personal experience I have found that the brakes are well protected from crash damage, even in pretty spectacular mishaps.

[riots100]

It's possible that the force of the crash knocked a speed sensor out of place so that the gap is no longer correct, thus triggering a fault code.

[beemrdon]

Thanks guys. The bike is in ok shape, all things considered. I rode it a couple of days ago (put some black tape over those abs blinkers). I thought it was just the code but when I went to apply the rear brake, as I usually do, the rear tire slid. I will check the stuff that you folks suggested.
I also bent the handlebar among other parts. I changed it out but now I don't have heated grips because the HG wires would not come out of the old bar. I guess I'll look around for aftermarket HGs.
Also, my right mirror broke off. I got the half that holds the glass back on but the back part is gone down the road somewhere. The fairing is ground down at the top edge near where the mirror attaches, the bar end weight is ground, so is the "crash" bar but I already replaced it. the topcase also took a grinding. I ruined a lot of expensive kit as well. Example Schuberth helmet, Revit Outback jacket, my right shoe, and scuffed up my kevlar riding jeans. ...better those things than me though....but I digress.
The brakes are my next order of business.

[bizzaro]

I had that exact issue after a spill a couple of years ago on a slickery dirt road.  For the life of me, I could not get my ABS to reset.  I got a hold of the Guru of ABS "TABU TOSI." He gave me the magic dust.  If this doesn't fix it, he is always happy to help, and I can forward you his email. BE sure to follow the directions precisely.

Glad that you got to slide to a stop. You maybe got a little banged up, but hey, you drove home Right!  Sure beats that sudden stop when you hit an inanimate object.  But never fun, none the less.  Glad your are good, and hopefully the bike will come around with the needed parts and pieces.

Just found this in my emails: good luck.

My inquiry.......................

    My ABS II on my 94 K 1100 LT quit after a minor spill in wet weather.  I went down FAG side up and the bike was on it side for several minutes. I did not have the side covers on. After reading through much of your amazing and thorough website I saw where you stated the water is the most common cause of ABS II failure.  The ABS was fine before the spill.  On to my query.
    I tried to clear the fault as instructed  5 times by grounding the center fault reader pin, holding down the ABS on the console and turning on the ignition for 30 seconds. It would not clear. So I proceeded to charge my battery which tested fine.  Cleaned all connections. Unplugged the 25 pin connector and sprayed it 3 times and reconnected it.  I used an analog volt meter to read the fault three or four times.  Each time I got seven dips in voltage.  So that says the ECU is faulty.  Because my bike went down FAG (ECU side up) and it was raining, I am highly suspecting there is water in my ECU?  Is there a way to check for water.  Can it be fixed if it is?  And can I do it?
     
    Also you warn to disconnect the 25 pin connector if you have a defective ECU unit.  So I am assuming I can disconnect the pin connector, thereby disabling the ECU, and then I will have failsafe non ABS brakes correct?  It would be the same as removing the ECU unit which just disables your ABS?
    Please Advise,


Reply From Tabu:
Hello
Please try to reset by the step I indicate below and tell me the result.
1  ignition off
2 ground center terminal of diagnostic plug
3 ignition on but no engine start
4 if you see two warning lamps illuminate alternately step 2 above is effective, if not you need to polish center terminal hole and try from step 1 ( possibly corroded center terminal)
 
5 push abs cancel switch on console for more than 10 sec.
6 step 5 will turn on abs lamp and turn off other warn lamp.

7 release abs cancel switch. two lamps go on if your reset is successful.
8 turn off ignition. remove ground wire if you succeeded.
how is the result.

So there Ya Go beemrdon. Hope this works for ya. And nice trip to the past in your Avatar photo.  If we could only go back ehh!

[beemrdon]

...If we could only go back.....

Thanks for the response. I'll give it a try along with the other suggestions listed above. If all else fails, I saw a bunch of abs brain units on ebay for cheap.

[bizzaro]

Before you go throwing parts at it, giving all else fails, I highly recommend contacting Tabu.  Good luck. Can't wait to hear the resolve!

[stokester]

Grab an analog meter and check the ABS code before replacing anything.

[Martin]

Glad your okay, fortunately I don't have to worry about black ice anymore but it has taken me down previously. Check the codes and battery first.

Regards Martin.

[BryanD]

I'm just glad you're around to ask hard questions about the bike, that obviously survived also!  :)

[beemrdon]

"I'm just glad you're around to ask hard questions about the bike, that obviously survived also!  :)" ....THANKS, it could have turned out much differently (worse)



Now I know the meaning of the old biker saying..."there are only two kinds of bikers, those that have gone down and those that will".

 :falldown:

[BryanD]

"I'm just glad you're around to ask hard questions about the bike, that obviously survived also!  :)" ....THANKS, it could have turned out much differently (worse)



Now I know the meaning of the old biker saying..."there are only two kinds of bikers, those that have gone down and those that will".

 :falldown:

I hope not.  Been riding since I was 14 (dirt bikes) and I haven't had a serious mishap yet.  I'd knock on wood, but then my head would hurt....  :hehehe

[beemrdon]

Hey guys,

I checked the front and rear speed sensor gaps.- Within spec.

Tried the middle diagnostic terminal with a wire attached to it and other end to ground pressing the ABS switch with key on about 10 times - no luck. Flashers still blinking alternately

Next I went to Lowes & got an analog multimeter and attached to same middle terminal and to ground, turned key on with kill switch on START and counted the pulses...I got 7 before it returned for another round of 7.

In this case, 7 is not my lucky number. According to Duck, Drake or whatever, Seven pulses means the "brain" is at fault.

Anyone got a less of a hassle and cheaper possible fix than replacing the "brain"?

I definately want to keep my ABS, if possible.

Thanks in advance

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I vaguely recall the same problem on my K75RT with ABS 1.  I contacted Soshi, and he suggested unplugging the brain for a length of time.  I completely removed it from the bike for a couple days, and when I put it back on the bike with a fully charged battery the code reset cleared the fault.  I have no idea what the problem was, but totally removing the power for a couple days fixed it, and so far the problem has not returned.

[beemrdon]

"I vaguely recall the same problem on my K75RT with ABS 1.  I contacted Soshi, and he suggested unplugging the brain for a length of time.  I completely removed it from the bike for a couple days, and when I put it back on the bike with a fully charged battery the code reset cleared the fault.  I have no idea what the problem was, but totally removing the power for a couple days fixed it, and so far the problem has not returned."



Thanks, worth a try

[John Lang]

Sounds like a capacitor needed draining to ensure a cold re-boot. If so, this can be speedily effected by removing one of the battery cables from its terminal and touching it to the other one for a few seconds.

[Laitch]

Now I know the meaning of the old biker saying..."there are only two kinds of bikers, those that have gone down and those that will".

Was there a back protector within that jacket? The jacket stayed intact. :2thumbup:

[beemrdon]

Yep, I thankfully had a back protector in place.

Johnny, Thanks for your offer.  I am going to try to take the brain out like Gryph mentioned and let it marinate in a bucket of Kikkoman.

[Motorhobo]

If the wheel is out of true or not on straight then the sensor readings will be inconsistent and that will throw the error.

This can happen if you install the wheel without using proper 'procedure'. That entails installing in a specific bolt sequence then 'bouncing' the tire on the ground. I can't remember exactly what the procedure is -- you can google that here -- but I do remember that I once didn't use that procedure and got a front ABS error. Loosening the front wheel bolts and doing it 'right' fixed it.

If the wheel was even slightly damaged it might result in some wobble that would throw the ABS off. Just a possibility...

[beemrdon]

Moto, Thanks for your reply. I don't think that the wheel is out because I would have felt it...don't tell anyone but I've had the K up into triple digits since the ice takedown and it felt smooth.


I unhooked the ABS brain today after work and also disconnected the ground from the battery for good measure.
I'll re-try to get some ABS action on Saturday.

[bizzaro]

I think you should reread my post, follow it precisely, including the disconnect and cleaning of the connections,(pin terminals), and your ABS II be working fine, as long as your battery is good?  (Sometimes things happen by coincidence.)