This Is The EPIC Soggs 92K75 MAGA Thread

[Soggz]

I learn from the mistakes of others and appreciate that their hubris benefits me. The Internet has made that convenient indeed and has allowed more of my money to be available for riding and profiterole consumption. I also respect experience, but then I have nothing left to prove, if I ever had anything in the first place. :giggles

I concur

[Soggz]

Soggz, don't take it personal, I have been told not to do things many-many times and I did them anyway. Sometimes it turned out to be OK, other times I ruined the whole thing and had to start anew. With the MAF there is a special MAF cleaner, you can get, and you can hose down the inside, as it is a mild abrasive, that would not damage the sensitive parts. Otherwise do, what I did, use contact cleaner sparingly, do not, at any circumstance touch the temp sensor. Some remove the black plastic cover to clean the insides of the MAF sensor, I am not sure it necessary, unless you know, something is not right there.

Oh BTW, check for air leaks. They can, as with carbed bikes upset the right fuel-air balance and the computer might try to balance for that, or you might run too lean, etc. Use carb cleaner with a long straw and direct the spray to specific parts - throttle body rubbers above and below the bodies, little vacuum caps, vacuum hose to pressure regulator, injectors, the z shaped hose, you have repaired even that big elbow going from the air box to the collector

What happens if you do touch the temp sensor? Just wondering ? It does look fragile.

[Laitch]

What happens if you do touch the temp sensor? Just wondering ? It does look fragile.

You want to learn, don't you? Touch it and find out. How can you believe what anybody tells you? :giggles

[Soggz]

You want to learn, don't you? Touch it and find out. How can you believe what anybody tells you? :giggles

I’ve been reading up about it. Is this the sensor which is suspended by wires which heat up electronically, thus knowing when the bike is in cold start mode? Then as the air flows past, it cools, thus letting the computer know that the bike is warming up, so it automatically leans back the mixture for injection flow? And yes, I know not to touch it with bare fingers, but apparently, it can attract dirt and oil over time(a long time), which in itself will give false readings. Therefore, can it be lightly cleaned with a cotton bud (q-tip) and a solvent with very light pressure?
Just asking. Havnt done it, but can it be? As if it is cleaner, wouldn’t it’s reading be more accurate?

[daveson]

Spray it with carby cleaner or something like that

[Soggz]

This is the bit I mean.

[Laitch]

Just asking. Havnt done it, but can it be? As if it is cleaner, wouldn’t it’s reading be more accurate?

How do you know its reading isn't accurate right now? Is it encrusted with barnacles? Did you inspect it with a jewelers loupe? Has anybody with any significant experience with K-motos recommended that you clean it? Are you getting directives from the Mothership to clean it?

You've got free will. We'll all benefit from your findings, as I have mentioned previously.

[Soggz]

How do you know its reading isn't accurate right now? Is it encrusted with barnacles? Did you inspect it with a jewelers loupe? Has anybody with any significant experience with K-motos recommended that you clean it? Are you getting directives from the Mothership to clean it?

You've got free will. We'll all benefit from your findings, as I have mentioned previously.

Only asking. No such things as stupid questions, only stupid people that don’t ask...like I said... it’s all new to me.

[Soggz]

Spray it with carry cleaner or something like that

Then blast it with high pressure and a fine nozzle?

[Laitch]

Then blast it with high pressure and a fine nozzle?

You could always try spitting on it then beating on it with a rubber policeman.

[Soggz]

You could always try spitting on it then beating on it with a rubber policeman.

sorry, it's late. 11.37 pm, to be exact.
And I really don't know what your on about.

[Laitch]

sorry, it's late. 11.37 pm, to be exact.

G'night.

[daveson]

I relate to your idea of buying a spare to rip apart and put together again.

Three weeks ago I got another brick and promised myself not to spend any time fixing it.it was for spare parts only and to rip apart and reassemble.

Then on the way home I thought it would be a shame to wreck something that still goes, after all it used to be illegal to perform an autopsy on something that wasn't dead yet. I defibrillated it (tickled the computer) and now it ticks over again.

Now I havn't got the heart to tear it apart.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The doohickey(technical term) in the MAF throat is not there to tell if the engine is warmed up.  Rather, it measures AIR temperature very precisely so as to determine it's density/mass.  Air is much denser at colder temperatures than hotter temperatures.  It makes it possible to more accurately calculate the amount of fuel necessary to be injected.

Engine temperature is measured by the water temperature sensor in the cooling passage behind the radiator. 

It appears you need to go back and review the Jetronic Manual.

[szabgab]

Soggz,  as I recommended earlier,  go easy on that thing,  never ever touch it,  a fine spray of contact cleaner or MAF densor cleaner is all it takes.  If you touch it it is very fragile,  so if it breaks, you will need an another MAF sensor assembly. Since your bike is not running well,  you will not have a benchmark,  and you might never be able to realise,  the heating element is the culprit of a really badly working bike

[Soggz]

The doohickey(technical term) in the MAF throat is not there to tell if the engine is warmed up.  Rather, it measures AIR temperature very precisely so as to determine it's density/mass.  Air is much denser at colder temperatures than hotter temperatures.  It makes it possible to more accurately calculate the amount of fuel necessary to be injected.

Engine temperature is measured by the water temperature sensor in the cooling passage behind the radiator. 

It appears you need to go back and review the Jetronic Manual.

Thank you. I only wanted some sensible answers. It does seem an unusually complicated piece of equipment,and one that I am not famililiar with,but I like to get to know the bike and all its working parts.

[Soggz]

I relate to your idea of buying a spare to rip apart and put together again.

Three weeks ago I got another brick and promised myself not to spend any time fixing it.it was for spare parts only and to rip apart and reassemble.

Then on the way home I thought it would be a shame to wreck something that still goes, after all it used to be illegal to perform an autopsy on something that wasn't dead yet. I defibrillated it (tickled the computer) and now it ticks over again.

Now I havn't got the heart to tear it apart.

Yes,that's understandable. The two bikes I have now,I bought as non runners,so that I could rip them apart,and understand them,and get them going again. 1 done,1 to go! It's getting there. But I do like to think out of the box and ask questions which aren't normally asked...

[Soggz]

Soggz,  as I recommended earlier,  go easy on that thing,  never ever touch it,  a fine spray of contact cleaner or MAF densor cleaner is all it takes.  If you touch it it is very fragile,  so if it breaks, you will need an another MAF sensor assembly. Since your bike is not running well,  you will not have a benchmark,  and you might never be able to realise,  the heating element is the culprit of a really badly working bike

Thank you,yes,obviously don't want to get heavy handed with sensative components like these.

[szabgab]

Thank you,yes,obviously don't want to get heavy handed with sensative components like these.

Also carb cleaner is not recommended,  as it is rather aggressive.  But in my opinion we are obsessing about a thing,  that just needs to be checked for fine operation,  e.g. the door opening and closing freely.  If it does,  just spray the inside a bit and put it back together.  Having the bike operational again check for air leaks methodically,  measure the resistance of the water temp sensor at various temperatures,  and so on...

[Soggz]

Also carb cleaner is not recommended,  as it is rather aggressive.  But in my opinion we are obsessing about a thing,  that just needs to be checked for fine operation,  e.g. the door opening and closing freely.  If it does,  just spray the inside a bit and put it back together.  Having the bike operational again check for air leaks methodically,  measure the resistance of the water temp sensor at various temperatures,  and so on...

Yup, all done and back in, just before I did the compression test. I was working on the bike until around 8.30 last night.

[Soggz]

The doohickey(technical term) in the MAF throat is not there to tell if the engine is warmed up.  Rather, it measures AIR temperature very precisely so as to determine it's density/mass.  Air is much denser at colder temperatures than hotter temperatures.  It makes it possible to more accurately calculate the amount of fuel necessary to be injected.

Engine temperature is measured by the water temperature sensor in the cooling passage behind the radiator. 

It appears you need to go back and review the Jetronic Manual.

Hi. Did what you said. The manual is very interesting and I am really delving into it. I’ve never come across a system like this, but this manual helps me to understand the otherwise unseen workings of it all and explains it really easily. Wish I had a hard copy, as I can imagine it would be easier on my eyes than a bright screen.
Thank you.

[Soggz]

Ok,managed to start it up today.Before I did that...
Checked the spark,nice and fat and blue.
Compression readings good. But still running rough.
Sprayed contact cleaner at no.3 carcuss,and it stalled.
Going to check the valves in the next couple of days when I have time.
The revs on it sound ' intermittant'.
Choke only seems to work when it's warmed up a bit too. On start up,throttle needs to be wound up and down a lot,and choke dosnt really work for a while,until about 5 mins in,then goes up to 4 k on full,2k on half.Take it off,and bike stalls. What does this sound like?
Thanks.

[szabgab]

Ok,managed to start it up today.Before I did that...
Checked the spark,nice and fat and blue.
Compression readings good. But still running rough.
Sprayed contact cleaner at no.3 carcuss,and it stalled.
Going to check the valves in the next couple of days when I have time.
The revs on it sound ' intermittant'.
Choke only seems to work when it's warmed up a bit too. On start up,throttle needs to be wound up and down a lot,and choke dosnt really work for a while,until about 5 mins in,then goes up to 4 k on full,2k on half.Take it off,and bike stalls. What does this sound like?
Thanks.

Well, most likely you have a massive air leak on one of the cylinders,  most likely the one, that stalled after hosing down with contact cleaner.  Use a straw and localised puffs of spray to determine,  where is the leak.

Btw an engine lugging, needing a lot of choke and thumping sound like only two cylinders working

Also if you have that sorted,  see Robert's excellent write-up on the temp sensor resistance http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11299.0.html

[Soggz]

Well, most likely you have a massive air leak on one of the cylinders,  most likely the one, that stalled after hosing down with contact cleaner.  Use a straw and localised puffs of spray to determine,  where is the leak.

Btw an engine lugging, needing a lot of choke and thumping sound like only two cylinders working

Also if you have that sorted,  see Robert's excellent write-up on the temp sensor resistance http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11299.0.html

Hey!
Thanks for the advice?
Yes,I will have another look tommorow.

[Laitch]

Also if you have that sorted,  see Robert's excellent write-up on the temp sensor resistance http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11299.0.html

Starting at Reply #108, the coolant temperature sensor discussion was started. Soggz seemed to have tested it with reference to rbm's document, then indicated it passed inspection.