K100RT parked for 20 years

[woodgeek]

I just purchased a K100RT that's been parked for almost 20 years.  Doing a VIN search, it was last titled in 2000. What do I need to address first? I've ordered rebuild kits for front and rear brakes. I'm also ordering o-rings for the injectors, fuel and vacuum hoses.

[woodgeek]

Can we we edit our posts? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I wanted to edit my post but couldn't find the "button".

[thecableguy]

You can edit posts once you hit the magic number (of posts).  I think it's 10??


20 years, you are probably going to be looking at seals and rubber bits all over.  Brake lines, fuel lines (in and outside the tank), throttle body rubbers, the infamous "Z" tube, etc.  Tear it down far enough to look at the TBs, I couldn't see mine were cracked until I got them off.


Also look at a spline lube, trans and driveshaft. 


I'm sure others will chime in as well...


Jim

[woodgeek]

Thanks for the tip on the post count! My list of to-do's keeps getting longer and longer. I need to research the Z tube now. I'm getting keys cut by a locksmith and I need to get paperwork ready for the DMV as this bike came sans title.


This weekend I'm going to pull the injectors and send them off to be cleaned. I'm readying a big order to include all throttle body rubber bits and hoses, vacuum caps, fuel tank hoses, fuel filter, etc. I ordered new upper brake rubber as I'm replacing the RT bars with an RS bar. To that end, I ordered new throttle and clutch cables. When I pull the injectors, I'm going to check the valve clearances, so part of the big order is valve cover gaskets and bolt grommets. I might as well pull the bottom-end cover so I'll order that gasket as well. An Odyssey PC680 and terminal adapters are on order. New left and right switchgear should be here soon. Debating whether to go ahead and spring for a new RAM rear shock since the stock one is 32 years old and most certainly shot.


I'm hoping the rear master cylinder can be rebuilt. I recall reading that they get pitted when allowed so sit with old brake fluid in them. The bike may have only costs me $300 but it's going to run closer to $2000 by the time I get it on the road. lol

[thecableguy]

Search on here for "Chinese rear master cylinder" for a cheap replacement.  Several on here have done it with good results.


Sounds like you've got the right list for the rubber replacements.  Did all that to mine as well, hoping not to need to for another 30 years...



Jim

[woodgeek]

*edited
I found out where the Z-tube (breather tube) is located.  :2thumbup:

[Laitch]

I found out where the Z-tube (breather tube) is located.  :2thumbup:

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

                                                                                                             :yippee:
 



 

[woodgeek]

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                                                                                                             :yippee:

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji106]


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[K1300S]

sounds like you are hitting all the right things to deal with.

although they are K75's, looking through the two threads in my sig line may help as you go through your bike. 

[woodgeek]

sounds like you are hitting all the right things to deal with.

although they are K75's, looking through the two threads in my sig line may help as you go through your bike.

Thanks! Getting this guy back on the road is already costing more than I imagined. Hopefully I won’t find anything else big that needs replacing. What has me nervous are: fuel pump, coolant pump, drive shaft spline, fuel injection electronics, etc. I’ll do more investigation this weekend. 👍

[caveman]

woodgeek,
Welcome (even though I don't say much here).
I guess this is your first K?
Do yourself a solid and read up in the tec section (so Laitch doesn't make funny replies to your posts)

[woodgeek]

Thanks Caveman. Yep, first K. I’ve owned quite a few motorcycles in the past but none that I had to rebuild like this.

First motorcycle was a KZ550, I was 16. Second motorcycle was in college, an FZR600. I traded that for a GS1150e. After college, I got a ZRX1200. Totaled that and replaced it with another ZRX1200. That one got totaled when a truck turned across my lane and I t-boned him. After a few year hiatus I picked up a GSX1100G. Then I bought and parted out a GPz550 that I wanted to rebuild but couldn’t find the time. Which us to the present. [emoji23][emoji106]


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[woodgeek]

Laitch’s reply literally made me laugh out loud at work. [emoji23]


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[Martin]

Gunked fuel pumps can sometimes be resurrected  by soaking in white vinegar for a week or sometimes two. After soaking if it still won't work try applying 12v briefly and alternating the polarity back and forth. If it still won't break free try upping the voltage to 18v briefly and again swap the polarity back and forth. If the pump still won't work read this http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg86054.html#msg86054. I have been running a Chinese pump since July 2017. There are heaps of alternative pumps out there some are a direct replacement others require packing out. Prices vary depending on brands and source. Try to avoid ethanol fuels which will degrade dampers and hoses, and only use EFI submersible fuel line in the tank and try to use non worm drive hose clamps especially in the tank.
Regards Martin.