Post by: K_grendell on November 25, 2016, 07:15:23 PM
It's a 1987 k75s. I picked it up from the original owner. It has a tick over 20 thousand miles and has been sitting in the back of his garage for the last 20 years. It looked terrible and the clutch was locked up. After some rocking around and some proper cleaning it's starting to shape up quite well and I'm happy she's on the mend.
Hopefully I'll have time on Sunday to finish cleaning and get it running. I plan to have the injectors cleaned, complete fluid flush, lube the drive splines, and give the electrics a solid once over. Any other suggestions on things to look at for on a barn find?
Here's a few pics of the retrieval and revival!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll23/kgrendell/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-10/0B7694B6-CCAA-419E-8572-F65AC600D63A_zpsnznsfrad.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll23/kgrendell/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-11/DEC118F4-9E7C-4C4D-8970-188542BA7B4F_zpsaf2yf0mh.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll23/kgrendell/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-11/56B79DC9-F144-40C5-8162-31E8C44C8C3E_zpscae2zc8n.jpg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 25, 2016, 07:48:39 PM
I would keep a close eye on the rear brake master cylinder. You could have a lot of crystallized brake fluid in there that will tear up the seals and make it leak and not build good brake pressure. With 20 year old brake fluid, I also wouldn't be surprised it the cylinder bore is corroded as well. Watch closely for brake fluid leaks.
Post by: Martin on November 25, 2016, 08:35:36 PM
Welcome to the asylum from the land of OZ. looks like a good restorer. Change all the fluids and check and clean the inside of the tank replace the fuel lines check the pump damper. Check and replace any suspect rubber bits breather hose vacuum caps etc. Clean electrical connectors with Deoxit and apply dielectric grease optional.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Chaos on November 25, 2016, 09:18:37 PM
Post by: K_grendell on November 25, 2016, 09:36:14 PM
That car you see is an old Fiat 500 that was in a car fire. We are restoring it now and it's nicknamed the toasted marshmallow
Post by: Chaos on November 25, 2016, 10:05:43 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 26, 2016, 06:04:33 AM
Great car - tank really, it brought back lots of memories to see one, thanks!
Bike looks nice btw!
Post by: The Dude on November 26, 2016, 12:57:15 PM
Post by: K_grendell on November 27, 2016, 06:29:03 PM
The fuel pump doesn't click on and cycle when the ignition is turned on, and I have 12v+ going to the pump at the pump harness. So I'm going to order up a new pump..
Since this is my first k-bike can someone recommend a good place to order from and which parts need to get replaced besides the pump? I know there are some newer replacement components that ethanol won't eat. Internal lines etc... any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am going to search but found a few other things I need. Rear master reservoir needs to be replaced, and the right side tragkorb latch is long gone. Is there a retrofit or mod? They seem cheap and doesn't hold well to the bike on the left side.
I also got the vin too: wb1057208H0150695
I
Post by: jakgieger on November 27, 2016, 06:59:46 PM
Post by: K_grendell on November 27, 2016, 07:06:13 PM
Post by: Martin on November 27, 2016, 08:01:23 PM
Moto Bins or Motorworks both good.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2016, 08:15:29 PM
Post by: K_grendell on November 27, 2016, 08:23:05 PM
I also found that max bmw sells the tragkorb mount clips I need with locks for short change. I'm always amazed at the amount of bmw stuff they can get.
Post by: Vespa no more on November 28, 2016, 02:39:40 AM
Injectors are easy to clean. Look in youtube. I found the tire valve approach worked very easily. My only concern is that the filter is in the top. If crud (filth) has come from the tank and into the injector from above, spraying carb cleaner doesn't clean the small mesh at the top. Perhaps reverse spray from the bottom through an open injector might clean the mesh out.
Fuel injector service kits are cheap to buy and include the 2 O-rings, the filter and the pintle cap on the bottom. The filter in the top is removed by turning a screw into it (enough to grip the filter) and pulling out. Don't apply 12V for extended periods. A shop service will include flow rates (before and after... how much injector cleaner in (I think 1 min... don't quote me). Cost me $120 for service and 30 mins in the garage for the second bike.
Your call. If cost is not a problem (ref: new fuel filter) go the service. But I could help feeling cheated once I tried it myself.
Congrats on the bike. Buffed up quite nicely. Should run well once sorted.
Regards
Guy
Post by: Martin on November 28, 2016, 02:49:21 AM
You can use one of those small rectangular 9 V batteries to cycle the injectors.
Regards Martin.
Post by: kris on November 29, 2016, 08:59:48 PM
Sounds like you already ordered fuel pump, etc.. You can pick yourself up a spare pump for $15 - $20. That's what I'm running in mine, no problems. There is information on hand as to what you can substitute in. Ford Escort pumps come to mind.
She'll get better and smoother the more you run her. Imagine how you'd feel after a 20 year snooze!!
Best of luck
Post by: kris on November 29, 2016, 09:07:00 PM
Post by: Chaos on November 30, 2016, 12:26:04 AM
Throttle and clutch cables are Teflon coated, therefore require no maintenance...those clever Germans.
Almost maintenance free. The little barrel on the clutch cable the fits into the hand lever needs be lubed occasionally or it will not rotate and the cable will break there.
Post by: Laitch on November 30, 2016, 06:31:17 AM
Check the tank connector. I had problems with it on my bike. They get loose and corroded terminals.Gryph is pointing out that there is a connector beneath—not within—the tank that supplies power to the fuel pump. You should inspect it, clean it with an electronics cleaner and be certain that its connection is tight. You can purchase and install fuel pumps 'til the cows come home but none of them will work until that connector functions properly. In other words, the problem might not be with the pump's condition but rather with its electrical supply.Thanks gryphon. I just ordered a complete kit from euro moto electrics, once I get it out if it's still salvageable I'll keep it on the shelf.
Maybe you understood him, but your response doesn't indicate that to me.
Post by: K_grendell on December 06, 2016, 10:24:58 PM
Now that I know it's a good runner I'll start to really dig into cleaning and sorting it. I'll give it a proper coolant/oil flush this weekend, get to cleaning, finish up the fuel system with fresh injectors, brake rebuild, and a spline lube.
Post by: The Dude on December 06, 2016, 11:46:50 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 07, 2016, 12:29:44 AM
Winter is the ideal time to clean the crap out. With a tank of good gas mixed with Techron in the bike over the winter you start it up, let it get to operating temperature and shut it down. Do this once a week or so and you will have spent about 4 months with cleaner soaking in the injectors dissolving the varnish. Each time you start and run you'll be flushing them. By spring they will be ready to go.
For now the most I would do is change the injector screens and o-rings, a job that shouldn't cost more than $20. A new NAPA gold 3032 filter in the tank is something else you want to do. Along with your new pump and damper that should have your fuel system working pretty well and let you work on the rest of the fluids and the splines.
Post by: Elipten on December 07, 2016, 12:37:00 AM
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Post by: Martin on December 07, 2016, 02:22:01 AM
Use 5/16 SAE 30 R10 rated submersible fuel hose in the tank.
Regards Martin.
Post by: K_grendell on December 07, 2016, 05:33:47 AM
Post by: Elipten on December 07, 2016, 06:18:09 AM
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Post by: nods on December 07, 2016, 07:45:45 AM
And have you touched the injectors yet, to get it running?
Would you mind showing me the link to the complete kit you bought from Euro Moto Electrics?
Thanks a lot, and congrats on getting her running after a 20 year snooze!
Post by: jakgieger on December 07, 2016, 07:59:48 AM
kit with bosch pump/mahle filter (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOSCH-BMW-K-Fuel-Pump-Kit-PLU-16-12-1-461-576-p/fp-576kitplus.htm)
Post by: nods on December 07, 2016, 08:09:05 AM
On the injectors, this is an option (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-92-BMW-K100-K100RS-K100RT-K100LT-Fuel-Injectors-Best-Upgrade-4-Hole-Spray-/192046841635?hash=item2cb6e23f23:g:Cr8AAOxycmBS6PL9&vxp=mtr). When this set sells, it could be awhile before they get another set... IMHO, the 4 hole injector is a valid upgrade. I am very pleased with mine (especially power-wise). Have you removed the fuel rail to look for surprises there?
kit with bosch pump/mahle filter (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOSCH-BMW-K-Fuel-Pump-Kit-PLU-16-12-1-461-576-p/fp-576kitplus.htm)
Thank you! So I guess that means a new fuel pump if this is the complete kit that K_grendell bought.
Those injectors looks great, but don't ship to Australia :dunno2: I'm wondering if it might be worth spending $100 US for those rather than cleaning and getting whatever parts are needed for the original injectors (filter? o-rings?)
Thanks again, I've saved those links.
Post by: jakgieger on December 07, 2016, 08:20:25 AM
Post by: nods on December 07, 2016, 08:24:01 AM
Cleaning your own is by far "cheaper". The parts are readily available. You can find the info here if you look...As far as the 4-hole injectors, the ones on ebay are "recycled". You could find some in Australia from an injection shop/salvage yard/wrecker!
Sold on that Jack! I'm not after a fire breathing monster, so the stock injectors cleaned and working properly will do me fine. Thanks.
Post by: Laitch on December 07, 2016, 01:19:36 PM
Sold on that Jack! I'm not after a fire breathing monster . . .I think Jack's bike is more salsa breath with a side order of whips and chains. :giggles
Post by: Martin on December 07, 2016, 01:59:37 PM
Fuel pumps can often be persuaded to work again, soak in metho or white vinegar for a week or two. Then apply 12v briefly alternate the connections, working the pump forward and backwards. If the pump shows signs of wanting to move briefly try upping the voltage to 18v.
Regards Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on December 07, 2016, 02:11:00 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 07, 2016, 02:18:24 PM
I do like speed AND whips make me move faster :hehehe ...placing me under compression...another good riding song :curvy-road . Still not sure you have the correct innuendo Laitch pertaining to my predilections.Well, jack, I'm all about accuracy. Let's delete whips and chains and substitute stilettos and bustiers. :giggles
Post by: jakgieger on December 07, 2016, 03:11:33 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 07, 2016, 03:42:04 PM
Are you projecting your needs/issues on me???Not yet, jack, but I'll consider doing that if it's ok. :hehehe
Post by: nods on December 07, 2016, 05:02:08 PM
Fuel pumps can often be persuaded to work again, soak in metho or white vinegar for a week or two. Then apply 12v briefly alternate the connections, working the pump forward and backwards. If the pump shows signs of wanting to move briefly try upping the voltage to 18v.Thanks Martin, I've seen someone pulled the pump apart too
Regards Martin.
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Post by: jakgieger on December 07, 2016, 07:40:18 PM
Not yet, jack, but I'll consider doing that if it's ok. :hehehe
NOT OK. :yow We really should stop :threadjacked . We might be starting to give the asylum a bad reputation. People might think we really are Krazy. :bmwsmile
Post by: Laitch on December 07, 2016, 07:48:05 PM
NOT OK. :yow We really should stop :threadjacked . We might be starting to give the asylum a bad reputation. People might think we really are Krazy. :bmwsmileYou're right, of course, Jack. In fact, you took the words right out of my mouth. :giggles
Post by: bmwpyro on December 07, 2016, 11:41:54 PM
People might think we really are Krazy. :bmwsmile
umm. too late? but good Krazy :yes
Post by: K_grendell on December 08, 2016, 11:21:00 AM
Nods that link above is what I ordered. Make sure to get the optional filter, and submersible lines that are listed.
I haven't done injectors yet, but I'm going to order the recycled 4 hole nozzles. If I'm going into the fuel rail I'd rather replace everything so it's new and Ethanol compatible I like doing things just once if possible, and I hate to get stranded from lack of due diligence.
Post by: Laitch on December 08, 2016, 11:44:22 AM
I'm not after a fire breathing monster, so the stock injectors cleaned and working properly will do me fine. Thanks.There's not much indication that four-hole injectors greatly enhance performance of the K75; there is some indication that the fuel mixture might need a slight modification to get the engine running optimally after they are installed..
Post by: Martin on December 08, 2016, 12:04:39 PM
I have been told 4 hole injectors work if they spray directly into the combustion chamber. As this is not the case with the K engine, there is probably nothing to be gained. The performance gains felt on converting, are more than likely the result of new clean injectors against old dirty ones. Until somebody does a Dyno comparison with cleaned and serviced 1 hole injectors against clean serviced 4 hole injectors it's all conjecture.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on December 08, 2016, 12:16:14 PM
I have been told . . .What if I tell you that using lavender talc on a K75 to detect oil leaks attracts land crabs that will puncture the tires?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 08, 2016, 01:23:21 PM
Being a mechanical pessimist, when I think of smaller orifices, I think "easier to clog".
Post by: Martin on December 08, 2016, 01:44:11 PM
Laitch show me pictures, or a certified report on land crabs being attracted to Lavender talc, and I will believe you. :dunno On the subject of the injectors, even Osidetiger haven't done a Dyno report on the differences that I can find. Until somebody does a Dyno report it is still conjecture. I would love to find a report either way. Could please over winter build a dyno out of old snow plow parts and submit a report.
Waiting patiently Martin.
Post by: jakgieger on December 08, 2016, 08:56:55 PM
This threat just got really hot!
WHOA NELLIE :nono , Threats on this site are strictly forbidden. The last moderator had to take a leave for behavior such as this :deal: . HOWEVER, smart a## remarks, questionable humor, vague references, passive aggressive remarks/demands, implied violence, and just general ignorance, are not only condoned but encouraged by the inmates.
To all you people named Thomas, the four hole is an improvement on the injector. Yes, Gryphon, it has a smaller hole. I personally like smaller holes, since they--- "For gasoline to be burned, three things need to occur. It must be atomized (broken into small particles), emulsified (mixed with air), and vaporized (changed into a rarefied form). The job of the injector is to prepare the gasoline to make the phase change from liquid to vapor."
Post by: Laitch on December 08, 2016, 09:16:37 PM
I personally like smaller holes . . .Me, too. It's a preference that unites this great country from the Left Coast to the majestic Great Divide and bountiful Midwest then onward to the effete Eastern Establishment and humidly devout South.
Post by: jakgieger on December 08, 2016, 09:25:27 PM
Me, too.
How do you intellectually conceptualize the fact that this great country apparently prefers UUGGGE A##holes? Electorally speaking of course...
Post by: Laitch on December 08, 2016, 09:34:50 PM
How do you intellectually conceptualize the fact that this great country apparently prefers UUGGGE A##holes? Electorally speaking of course...In response to whatever you mean—typographically or otherwise, jack, I say that we must embrace our similarities even if they are just hole sizes. If I get your drift, certainly the preference should be that those holes are smaller, too.
Now, back to the subject of the thread, because I know you have an abhorrence of hijacking. :giggles
Post by: jakgieger on December 08, 2016, 09:48:19 PM
Now, back to the subject of the thread, because I know you have an abhorrence of hijacking. :gigglesWell said. K_grendell sorry for the diversions(enjoyable as they are on a COLD December day). All the talk of variances in orifice size/quantity got me excited :hehehe . I personally think that the injectors are an improvement. But opinions are like Aholes, everybody has one!It sounds like you have the issues well in hand. After servicing, you can start on upgrades(alternator, led lights, etc)! Good luck
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 08, 2016, 11:02:15 PM
The rule of thumb was that the likelihood of clogging a hole increased as the inverse of the square of the diameter change. The smaller the hole the harder it is to filter out the bad stuff that could clog it.
The pessimist in me expects the injectors to clog. Why make it easier for them?
Post by: jakgieger on December 09, 2016, 08:13:52 AM
The pessimist in me expects the injectors to clog. Why make it easier for them?
I work with/depend upon hydraulics daily Gryphon. I appreciate your concerns. That being said, the forces, thermal differences, filtering specs, and mechanical complexities in hydraulic applications are grossly different. No need to fear 4-hole injectors (85 million cars can't be wrong), unless you are adverse to filter changes or regularly/intentionally add impurities in your gasoline :bmwsmile . I regularly practice rapid acceleration in an attempt to purge impurities and keep fresh fuel in my bike :2thumbup: .
Post by: Laitch on December 09, 2016, 09:17:25 AM
. . . (85 million cars can't be wrong), . . .The combustion of K-bikes was designed with two-hole injectors in mind. Introducing a differing component can also introduce the need to modify settings for optimal performance. If the cost of two-holers compared with four-holers is the same but the acceleration performance is significantly improved, then that's a reasonable rationale for purchasing the fours—if speed is the need.
I think if the throttle is twisted far enough for long enough on K-bikes with two-holers, there should be enough speed produced to overtake effectively, to garner traffic violations abundantly, to maim reliably, or to arrive predictably ahead of schedule in most cases.
:yippee:
Post by: K_grendell on December 10, 2016, 09:13:30 PM
I did a fluid flush, new rear master reservoir, fresh coolant level line hose, new battery, and a proper detail and re-assembly. I'm very impressed with how smooth the bike is! I will definitely be selling my touring ducati next season and replace it with the k-bike.
I am looking forward to sorting out the few niggles and some minor upgrades.
There a slight hesitation when you snap he throttle, is this standard fare for the old jetronic injection or should I delve into a full on t.b. Sync etc...?
Post by: Laitch on December 10, 2016, 09:23:20 PM
There a slight hesitation when you snap he throttle, is this standard fare for the old jetronic injection or should I delve into a full on t.b. SyncFull valve clearance check/adjustment then tb synch.
Post by: Chaos on December 10, 2016, 10:47:03 PM
Post by: Elipten on December 10, 2016, 11:06:39 PM
I do believe this is the first mass produced EFI motorcycle.
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Post by: Martin on December 11, 2016, 01:28:26 AM
Do not adjust the throttle body mechanical adjustment screws ( The ones with the blue paint). If moved it is extremely hard to synchronize them again.
Regards Martin.
Post by: K_grendell on December 11, 2016, 09:02:42 AM
The way you worded it as gasping when you open the the throttle is exactly what it does. It was really bad at first but the longer it warmed it and more I used it the better the bike got. From sitting all those years I'm sure it was just slow to wake up. I'll focus my attention elsewhere for now until I start putting miles on it next spring to shake it down.
I'm going to tackle the brake system next, lines and m/c & caliper rebuilds. Any recomemdations for where to source oem seal kits? Has anyone swapped over from squishy rubbber to steel lines?
Post by: Elipten on December 11, 2016, 10:00:58 AM
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Post by: Elipten on December 11, 2016, 10:01:53 AM
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Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 11, 2016, 10:33:49 AM
My K100 with Motronic is much crisper and responds almost instantly. It has no MAF, but rather meters fuel based on throttle position.
I have not had any problems with the k75 hesitation since I have the habit of rolling on the throttle rather than snapping it on and off.
Post by: Chaos on December 11, 2016, 12:32:34 PM
I'm going to tackle the brake system next, lines and m/c & caliper rebuilds. Any recomemdations for where to source oem seal kits? Has anyone swapped over from squishy rubbber to steel lines?
Speigler makes nice SS brake lines. BBY is an excellent source of many parts, unfortunately...
Post by: Filmcamera on December 11, 2016, 12:39:29 PM
http://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/spiegler-bmw-k75-85-92-rear-brake-line-kit-orig/ (http://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/spiegler-bmw-k75-85-92-rear-brake-line-kit-orig/)
That is for the back brake of yours but I bet they have the front as well
Post by: kris on December 11, 2016, 10:49:44 PM
Post by: K_grendell on December 11, 2016, 11:24:39 PM
Post by: Chaos on December 12, 2016, 12:45:54 AM
Post by: Martin on December 12, 2016, 02:05:48 AM
All my 1992 radiator hoses are original. Front brake hose failed 15 years ago developed a air leak, it was sucking in air but not leaking fluid weird. I still have it as a curiosity, I assume the leak was caused by a flap of rubber acting as a one way valve.
Regards Martin,
Post by: kris on December 12, 2016, 10:06:29 AM
You make an excellent point. The question really has to be, "Is it worth the risk?" and the only sensible answer is, "No". I am not an aggressive rider....easier on my machines. But it's not worth finding out, in a pinch, that the lines wouldn't take a handful of really hard squeeze. I may re-think my position. I don't need stainless but newer lines wouldn't be an unreasonable preventive maintenance item! Now that the first significant snow has fallen we can sit back and survey the fleet. I was riding on Saturday and will ride again once these roads dry up!!
Post by: John Lang on December 12, 2016, 12:46:35 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 12, 2016, 01:43:32 PM
I got them here..
http://http://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/ (http://http://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/)
Post by: Scud on December 13, 2016, 11:22:29 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 14, 2016, 08:27:59 AM
I got Spieglers for my K75s. Excellent quality and perfect fit. Unfortunately in my case, when I got them I discovered that the PO had made some modifications and that I did not have all the stock components to attach my new to. I discovered this while complaining to Spiegler that the hoses were too short - and they graciously pointed out how they were correct and that I was missing some hard lines. If your bike is unmodified, you should be fine. I'm happy with mine, now that I acquired the missing components.Which components were missing, Scud? My bike doesn't have a center tube feeding two separate brake hoses. Is that what you are referring to? My bike has a single hose from the handbrake to the right caliper and a pipe bridging from there to the left caliper. That is one configuration that is stock, not a modification.
Describing the array and supplying the measurements is appropriate when ordering online.
Post by: John Lang on December 14, 2016, 09:11:51 AM
By the way, what's the difference between K75C and K75T? There seems to be a mix of windshields and handlebar heights no matter the designation.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 14, 2016, 09:27:58 AM
Are you sure yours is stock, Laitch? The downpipe feeding short hoses to each front caliper looks standard across a range K75 bikes (realoem.com), 1995 included.
This is not true for my '94 K75 RT and S models w/ABS which have a hose to the right hand side caliper and a hard line crossover to the left side caliper.
When you order lines you need to be very careful to get the correct model, year and whether or not the bike has ABS. My experience with the Spiegler lines on eBay is that they have the correct lines for the bike. But you have to order the right ones.
Post by: Laitch on December 14, 2016, 09:39:20 AM
Are you sure yours is stock, Laitch?According to the BMW parts fiche, John, it's one of the stock variations. Attached are two variations of the front brake layout found under K75S in the MAXBMW parts fiche. Mine is variation #2.
By the way, what's the difference between K75C and K75T? There seems to be a mix of windshields and handlebar heights no matter the designation.
K75S Front Brake Layout variation #1 from MAXBMW parts fiche.png (21.55 kB . 510x360 - viewed 398 times) K75S Front Brake Layout variation #2 from MAXBMW parts fiche.png (29.23 kB . 510x360 - viewed 402 times)A C has a drum brake. The T model was a touring variation sold in the USA but the later models had disc brakes all around.
Post by: John Lang on December 14, 2016, 10:29:33 AM
Post by: Scud on December 20, 2016, 10:33:29 PM
My 1990 K75s had the pipe through the steering stem. It was a non-ABS model.
My 1992 K75s had ABS - and it had a single flexline to the RH caliper, and the solid line arcing over the wheel to the LH caliper.
FWIW - I deleted the non-working ABS from the 1992 and moved all the non-ABS components (and forks and triple-clamps) to my 1992 "keeper."
As for missing parts, Laitch, the PO of the 1990 had run new lines from the downpipe directly to the front calipers, and had eliminated the hard lines. When I got the apparently too-short lines for the 1990, I assumed Spiegler had made an error, but then I learned that I was missing parts, not them.