K100 Low Seat Installation guide or templates?

[MIbrick]

Planning the conversion from standard to low-seat (thanks, Mike!) on my K100RS.  I've googled but can't find any installation manual or documentation of how one goes about doing this.  For example, I see there are two hooks that are through-bolted to the rear cowl. How do I know where to drill the holes?  Does a template or documentation exist for this exercise?


Thanks in advance!


ps - completely unrelated:  the behavior of my whack GPI has changed as of today. Less neutral light flickering, more random gear indicating. Maybe it's drying itself out. :\

[Laitch]

Does a template or documentation exist for this exercise?
Thanks in advance!

You're welcome in response.

Maybe somebody like Filmcamera who has done the conversion will chime in. In the meantime—while you're watching your GPI dry—there's this post. No templates or videos have surfaced yet.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=2829.0

The seat unlatches from the front then unhooks from the rear so locating the front latching mechanism first with the seat correctly oriented is essential. The rear hook positions should be determined by that step. That's the way it looks to me, anyway.

[Filmcamera]

I basically eyeballed it for where to drill the holes.  It seemed to work fine. FYI the bottom hole I drilled is approx 63mm from the bottom of the lip and the top hole is approx 20mm from the top of the lip.

The whole procedure is quite straightforward, the only slight issue I had is that the latch mechanism sometimes pulls off the front tang, hence the tie wraps in the photos.

If you have trouble with a specific part let me know and I will see if I can help.

Also if you have the storage case which i think sits on top of the battery on some models it will probably have to be taken off, mine was long gone - if it was ever there - so not a problem for me.

Overall the low seat certainly helps if you are short like me, the only issue I have found is that when you have a pillion the slope of the seat can mean they slide forwards into your back when going down a steep hill.

I also put on a different rear shock which lowered the bike even further, so I can flat foot both feet with no issues. Though that came at a cost, I now can't easily use the center stand and tend to bottom out the bike going over every speed bump.

[MIbrick]

Hey, Laitch. Thanks for the reply; I already looked at that thread and didn't see any instructions or template. I did see the fish pictures though, and that was exciting. :) 


Filmcamera-  Muito obrigado.  I guess I'll just dry fit everything and play it by ear.  Worst case is I screw it up and put holes in the wrong spots and have to buy a completely different bik...er, wait a minute. ;)

[Martin]

MiBrick an old tradesman's saying look three times, measure twice, drill or cut once. Then throw it away and get the apprentice who knows everything to do it.  :hehehe
Regards Martin

[Laitch]

MiBrick an old tradesman's saying . .  .

Building truck bodies, the saying was I cut it twice and it's still too short.

[BrickMW]

"the only slight issue I had is that the latch mechanism sometimes pulls off the front tang, hence the tie wraps"

You can add some rubber or vinyl strips between the frame and the clamps to prevent the mech from sliding and unlatching.

Also, whoever installed mine obviously didn't measure twice, so only one of the hooks actually engage properly at the back. Good news is, one is all that's needed, or has been all mine has needed at least, as it has never caused an issue for me.

Your pillion will be encouraged to stay close with this seat as filmcamera states, so be ready for more frequent knee squeezes and a warmer lower back... :riding:

[Elipten]

My K75RT is a normal seat but has the holes for the seat hooks.  There were two little plastic plugs to pop out filling the holes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro