Starting my Barn find......

[Doodaadog]

Hello fellow bricksters.....well I finally went and bought a shed find 92 K1100LT.....after seeing a Restomod K100 in a mag I thought 'that's the bike for me' to attempt my first full Retore and mod.........it had been stood for 7 years without turning a wheel.......so lots to explore and find yet.
The master cylinders are shot front and rear....dead battery (obviously) and old fuel.
Anyhoo bought new battery today and attempted connection to test if anyone is home....then .....'fireworks'.....it started to turnover without being asked!....no key on...no starter pressed
So question for you guys....is the starter relay sticking/busted....or some other maledy?
Just thought I would check with you guys before wasting lots of diagnostic time...
Any ideas?
Regards Greg Lincoln UK
Would post a pic but it is all standard at the moment...

[kioolt]

The starter itself does not have any contacts in it.  It sounds like your starter relay has contacts that are welded together.  That is probably why it got parked in the first place. Sometimes you can just tap the starter relay to get it to unstick.  It is under the gas tank in the relay box.  It will  be the one with the big wires on it.

[Doodaadog]

Thank you....I guessed that may be the issue...but I'm new to the big K....I must say this forum is one of the best single bike series sites.....so much knowledge...I don't feel so out of my depth or alone in the mist.....with my first ever restomod...
The members are an inspiration

[Chaos]

might want to peek in the gas tank and check for crud accumulation.  The rubber dampener around the fuel pump tends to dissolve in old gas.  Best to thoroughly  clean out the tank before attempting to start. 

[Doodaadog]

On first peek it looks shiny....shiny is good...not much else on it is shiny...
Just wanted to find out if it turned over...thanks for the advice though...will check for goop
Regards `Greg

[Martin]

If the starter relay won't unstick with a tap you can pull them apart. you then need to pop the points apart and clean them up with either a points file or emery paper. Good luck with your project.
Regards Martin.

[Doodaadog]

So.....fixed the starter relay by filing the 'pip' off the bottom contact....
Emptied the tank and put in fresh fuel.....tried to start but no joy...turns over nicely but will not fire...
Could anyone help speed up my diagnostics by giving me a list of things to check and clean etc...
Your help is once again much appreciated....
I realise it is hard to do remote diagnosis....just want some pointers on what to try first...
Regards Greg

[Laitch]

Could anyone help speed up my diagnostics by giving me a list of things to check and clean etc...
just want some pointers on what to try first...

If you're able to follow directions, try this first. It looks like fun and will repel biting insects.

[Scott_]

Chances are good of the injectors being stuck.
There is a trouble shooting chart of what to check for.
Does the fuel pump run, is the filter clean/not clogged.
Checked the air box for mouse nest..... or checked for any rodent eaten wiring.
Are you trying all this on the side stand or center stand. Some versions have an interlock safety switch that won't let the bike start when the side stand is out.

[Hilltopper46]

A small thing - but this bike will crank when the kill switch is in the no-run position.

[Doodaadog]

Thanks guys will get to work tomorrow after the moto GP.....by the way ...have a good thought for Nicky Hayden...

[Martin]

If the fuel pump cannot be heard first point of call is the four pin connector under the fuel tank. These are notorious for bad conductivity, with any of the old bricks it can be prudent to go over all the electrical connectors with your new best friend DEOXIT.  If you have recurring problems with this connector replace it with a waterproof connector. I go one step further and against the advice of many I smear the connectors with dielectric grease. Some Brickers say this can cause connection problems, however my theory is it keeps out water and air that lead to corrosion in the connectors. Your call on the dielectric grease. I've had three electric conductivity problems in twenty years. Two were on the temperature sensor switch which I failed to clean and grease due to it being hard to access, now remedied no problems since. The other was due to lack of a spring washer on my battery isolator switch now remedied.
Regards Martin.

[Doodaadog]

Today's update....tried the 'oil in bore' trick....whilst at it cleaned and checked plugs for spark....
Good healthy sparks....but 'no Workey' have good compression......so....my next port of call is tank down....so pump etc....my best guess is no fuel .....tried taking off the 'rail' feed pipe and cranking....no fuel came through...so will update you guys....once again thanks for your invaluable experience and guidance..
Regards Greg

[Doodaadog]

Martin...thanks for the pointer....where is the 4 pin connector?
Only seem to have a 2 pin....which I'm guessing is the fuel sender?

[Martin]

When you lift the back of the fuel tank up you will see a harness that goes into the tank. It hides behind my RH side cover on my 75, not sure on the 1100. But you will see it if you lift the back of the tank. An owner of an 1100 should be able to clarify. Do you have a manual it should be the first thing you acquire when you get a brick either down load one see link or buy one.  http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,666.msg2009.html#msg2009
Regards Martin.

[Scott_]

If you have had the tank off, you would have to have un-plugged this connector. 4 wires, White, Yellow, Brown, and Green.
Brown is ground
Green is +12 for the pump
White and Yellow are for the level gauge and low fuel lamp.