Mayo Creamy Oil Cap Temp Light

[wuyang]

Just bought a k75s with 75,000 miles on it. On the journey home after buying the temp light stayed on most of the time. When I got home I phoned the the seller who said it never happened to him before and to check the  expansion tank......when I checked it the temp of the antifreeze it was just luke warm, but there were some bits  floating in it which he said were from some additives he added.


Anyway I've rode it a few times just locally and the light stayed off most of the time, but coming on occasionally. However I unscrewed the the oil cap to notice a creamy residual around the cap threads. I haven't drained the oil yet, but when I look through the level window it just looks black.


Are the bits in the expansion tank linked to the creaminess around the  the oil cap threads....and not additive as he said? Should I be worried ...any advice welcome as when it comes to engines I'm a bit green,,,only doing basic maintenance . Any advice appreciated....

[Laitch]

Add the bike's model year to your profile. There were some changes made during certain years.

[Laitch]

Just bought a k75s with 75,000 miles on it. On the journey home after buying the temp light stayed on most of the time.

Don't ride the bike when the temperature light is on unless you are ok with ruining it.

Your bike has a cooling fan which activates when the bike is starting to overheat. The fan will come on and you will not see the light. It will run for a while then shut off. It will repeat that cycle when weather or traffic is liable to cause overheating. Look behind the radiator; that is where it is located. Get a thin dowel or rod and try to rotate it by pushing a blade. It should rotate without effort but it won't spin like a roulette wheel. If it takes effort to get it to move, you must replace it.

Flush the entire coolant system, rinse the coolant reservoir and replace the coolant. Do you have a manual? If not, you can download one from this site in the repair guidance section.

Check the oil level. Replace the oil and filter.

Welcome, wuyang. Please post up some photos of your bike.

[wuyang]

Hi all....cheers for your replys ....the bike is k75....

[Laitch]

Hi all....cheers for your replys ....the bike is k75....

Righto. If it is an S, put that in the profile too.

[Martin]

Post pictures of the creamy residue, some times this is a sign of water in the oil. Possibly it could be due to a leaky head gasket. Until you determine what is the cause you are risking destroying the engine by riding it.
Regards Martin.

[wuyang]

Think I already did

[Martin]

How to check for a leaking head gasket. 

Regards Martin.

[wuyang]

How to check for a leaking head gasket.  https://www.google.com.au/url?
Regards Martin.

Cheers Martin.......can't seem to get the link to work

[wuyang]

greetings...

id run a curd check on it... sounds like there is some chee in there...

j o

Thanks Johnny ......how do you run a curd test on it?
Cheers
Wuyang

[wuyang]

Could it be the oil/ water pump seal?


If so is this seal located on the pump when removed or the engine block behind the pump?
Cheers

[Laitch]

Could it be the oil/ water pump seal?

You would see traces of a leak from the weep hole under the pump. Do you have a workshop manual?

[Elipten]

Rebuilding the water/oil pump appears to be very challenging task from what other have experienced in attempting this task.

Just saying


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

The oil/water pump is a self contained unit with integral seals.  It is possible that it is where the oil and water are mixing.  There is a weep hole at the bottom of the pump where seal leakage from the two pumps is released.  If the hole is plugged, it is remotely possible to have some intermingling. 

First thing I would do is change the oil and filter as well as flush and refill the cooling system.  Check the cooling fins on the radiator.  On a bike as old as these bricks are, there will be a large quantity of bugs and dirt filling the spaces between the fins.  All that stuff will drastically reduce the cooling of an engine that already runs hot.  In an extreme case it will be necessary to remove and soak the radiator to get all that junk out. 

The stuff you mentioned in the cooling is probably stop leak that the seller put in there to hide a leak, possibly a leak that put water in the oil.  If you are lucky, the problem is in the pump which can be a simple bolt on replacement. 

I hope you didn't pay a premium price for this bike as it looks like you are looking at a couple hundred right out of the blocks to make the bike usable.  It's too bad, but it looks like you got involved with a dishonest seller.  The good news in all this is that you have come to the right place to get things straightened out with the least expense and aggravation.

[stokester]

Rebuilding the water/oil pump appears to be very challenging task from what other have experienced in attempting this task.

Just saying


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While I would not describe it as very challenging, it does require some mechanical skills that may be beyond regular maintenance abilities. 


There is plenty of "how to" information on this site and others places for those willing to take the plunge.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I believe there is a source in the U.K. for rebuilt K-bike pump assemblies.  I have also read of owners taking their pumps to be rebuilt at the dealer for surprisingly reasonable money.  If indeed a rebuild is necessary, some research on local resources will be quite worthwhile.

A search on pump repair both here and on the net in general should prove valuable.

[Martin]

Wuyang I was just about to go to work, go back I have fixed the link.
Regards Martin.

[wuyang]

Wuyang I was just about to go to work, go back I have fixed the link.
Regards Martin.

Thank youMartin much appreciated.

[wuyang]

Thanks all for your responses.


I do have a Haynes manual and uk motobins is not too far from where I live. I believe the pumps are £190 ish. I will enquire about the cost of a rebuild if it is motobins who do that.


Cheers
Wuyang

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Before you get too far ahead of yourself, do an oil change and coolant change.  Warm the engine up before draining the oil and take a photo of the oil and post it here.  A photo of the coolant and some of the bits you found in it might be helpful as well.

Here's a good thread:  http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7639.msg76053.html#msg76053

[wuyang]

Will do...hopefully soon. As soon as I drain I will post pics.


Thanks
Wuyang

[technostructural]

Some engines are known to have moisture/condensation problems in the crankcase and cause "mayo" like gunk around the oil cap and throughout the PCV system.I have seen this problem a lot in four cylinder Volkswagen engines. In my experience so far, this chronic/latent problem is not known to occur in Bricks. Generally speaking, when oil mixes with water and gets cycled through an engine, it turns into the creamy crap you describe.


I'd say that coolant and oil are coming into contact with one another, and this can only really happen at two places: (1) head gasket, or (2) pump.

One thing is for sure -- while investigating this, take heed of Laitch's advice above and do not run/ride the bike with the temperature light on.

[wuyang]

Hope this helps...these are the bits, about 1-3mm in size, from bottle

[technostructural]

What is the texture of those bits? Are they hard like silicone, or soft like cottage cheese?

[wuyang]