BMW OEM pricing crosses the line from absurd to no f**king way dude!

[Motorhobo]

Clutch bolts 21 21 1454417, six required, last year $2.35/unit now $4.45/unit.
Clutch bolt washer 21 21 1242377 six required, last year $0.95/unit now $1.92/unit.

Current cost to assemble your clutch: $38.40.

Used to be half that, so I wasn't too worried about finding replacement parts for something that shouldn't need to be done more than once every couple years, but it's just out of control now. Any fastener specialists out there who have alternative sources for these and any other smaller parts that aren't listed in the Alternative section of the Library? Or tell me where to look and I'll look myself -- I tried once at the local Fastenal but, well, yeah right.

$4.45 for a bolt? Gimme a f**king break!

[Chaos]

Priced OEM rotors, fuel pump, or a K75 HES?  Together they're worth more than my bike!

[Elipten]

Yep insane. My K bikes may die from costly spare parts vs. newer bike


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Motorhobo]

Well, most of the parts have non-OEM replacement parts available.  But not these crappy bolts and grab-washers? I can't believe BMW has these shallow-head bolts manufactured specially for these bikes, and metric grab washers must be available somewhere.

I'd look but I don't know what the 'official' term is for these things, so I don't know what to look for. The fiche doesn't give anything but some generic description.

[Filmcamera]

Maybe try and find a UK or European fastener company online, they will be mainly metric.  You might want to order in bulk though because of shipping costs.  Here in CR it is all metric so finding alternative nuts and bolts is fairly easy.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

There is an incredible list of parts that have had prices double in the last year.  Seems like every maintenance part and almost all of the parts that perish from age.

If BMW thinks that by raising parts prices they will get me to buy a new bike they are totally out of their f***ing heads. 

All they are doing is making it easier to go someplace else for spares.  Going forward, I figure I'm going to get a few "official" parts for my spares stock before BMW doubles the price again next year or decides to stop providing them.  After that I figure they will NEVER see me again.  I'll be getting everything aftermarket or off of eBay.


Don't they realize that having 30 year old machines still in daily use is an excellent marketing asset to reinforce the image of reliability and helps justify the incredibly stupid prices they are demanding for new bikes?

[Motorhobo]

Don't they realize that having 30 year old machines still in daily use is an excellent marketing asset to reinforce the image of reliability and helps justify the incredibly stupid prices they are demanding for new bikes?

You mean those /5's I see almost every day all over the place? Yes, I'm sure they're aware that all those slash models people use for their daily rides all over the world are doing wonders for their hi-tech reputation.

Oh -- sorry -- you weren't talking about 'vintage' R-bikes? Looks like we brickers all in the same camp as those slash models -- old tech old dudes with old bikes!

[Chaos]

Looking at BMW's dealer network for bikes, and the way they treated dealers that have left, I think they have a f*** you attitude about their customers in general. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Regardless of the technology level, thirty year old machines with 100+k miles are impressive reminders of the legendary durability of the BMW brand. 

It says good value for the stupid money you have to pay, and decent resale value.   I they want the owners of these old bikes to go away, I will.  But I'll keep on riding mine.   I'm glad I got all my bikes restored before those dumb f*cks started cranking their prices.

[racket]

Don't they realize that having 30 year old machines still in daily use is an excellent marketing asset to reinforce the image of reliability and helps justify the incredibly stupid prices they are demanding for new bikes?

You mean those bikes they haven't made any money off of in decades? They're doing us a huge favor by continuing to produce OEM parts. Money is made by selling new R1200s and S1000s though

[F14CRAZY]

Reuse the bolts and washers. I have

[Laitch]

Reuse the bolts and washers. I have

Now there is an elegant solution.  :clap:

[koapono]

I have re-used "one use" fasteners many times with no failures. Not just on my K-bikes but on all my vehicles.
 The only cap screws/bolts I shy away from re-using are the "rotate to final torque" type (tighten to an initial torque then rotate fastener a specified number of degrees)  these are usually used in cylinder head-blot applications.
When I do re-use a one-use fastener I clean the threads on the fastener and the hole, apply light coat of oil to the threads and torque to specs.
I don't believe that any fastener on a K-bike is stressed or stretched to the point where re-use compromises it.
 

[Martin]

Parts prices in OZ have always been two to three times dearer than US and UK and that included freight. I am even more determined to find sources of non OEM parts like the recently discovered brake master cylinders. At the moment I'm thinking of getting a Chinese copy of the fuel pump for $40.00. as against probably &300.00 plus.
Regards Martin.

[Motorhobo]

Parts prices in OZ have always been two to three times dearer than US and UK and that included freight. I even more determined to find sources of non OEM parts like the recently discovered brake master cylinders. At the moment I'm thinking of getting a Chinese copy of the fuel pump for $40.00. as against probably &300.00 plus.
Regards Martin.

You have Fords in OZ, right? I've had a dirt cheap Ford Escort pump in one of my K75s for at least 60k miles and when it tanks I'll get another one. Motobins has an refit kit for it, don't they?

Reuse the bolts and washers. I have

I'm OK to reuse the clutch bolts once and don't reuse the grab washers because after one use they flatten and don't grab. Those clutch bolts are soft metal and I've drilled them out more than once despite torquing them to spec. I will reuse them and I have a bag of 'em, but would buy new ones if they weren't goddam nearly $5 a pop.

But I am looking for an aftermarket source for those grab washers. I'm sure they can be had for under 25 cents apiece somewhere...all they need to do is be found.

Again, anyone know what the real term for those buggers is? I'm sure it's not 'grab washer' though that's what they do.

[kioolt]

Would the washers be any of the ones on this webpage?


https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=179qeld

[Filmcamera]

It is these ones for the clutch I think...




Tight-Grip External-Tooth Lock Washers

[/size]Though typically the fiche on MAx BMW says 7.4 and the page offers 6.4 and 8.4


I think the bolts are M6 so the 6.4 probably fit - 100 for $3.87...  :riding:


the 8.4 are a whopping $7.98 for 100 so it is up to you

[Martin]

Motohobo what model Escort? We only got the Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts rear wheel drive carburettor types.
Regards Martin.

[Glacial]

Would the washers be any of the ones on this webpage?


https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=179qeld

It is a symptom of my mechanical nerdishness that I actually enjoyed looking at all the different types of washers available.  I must get out more....

[Motorhobo]

It is these ones for the clutch I think...
Tight-Grip External-Tooth Lock Washers

Though typically the fiche on MAx BMW says 7.4 and the page offers 6.4 and 8.4
I think the bolts are M6 so the 6.4 probably fit - 100 for $3.87...  :riding:
the 8.4 are a whopping $7.98 for 100 so it is up to you

Would the washers be any of the ones on this webpage?
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=179qeld

I took one to the local hardware store once and remember they did have tooth washers only ones that bit into one side not both. So it's going to be metric external or internal/external tooth washers. Let me check, I think I have some used ones I can compare with. BTW the fact that the washer is toothed to bite into both the fastener and the piece explains why those clutch bolts are so soft and ergo why they're supposed to be single-use.

Motohobo what model Escort? We only got the Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts rear wheel drive carburettor types.
Regards Martin.

I think this is the only thread here that gives specific Ford model info for the pump --

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2058.msg10840.html#msg10840

F14CRAZY started another fuel pump thread recently that references yet another thread with specific info --

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9684.0.html

But there are a lot of options -- pick your poison as long as it's not the lethal OEM variety at over $400...


MH

[Martin]

I'm actually thinking of getting one of these and putting my spare original one in the tail as a just in case. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/for-BMW-K-Ducati-K75-K100-K1100-K1-1983-1997-BOSCH-16121461576-16121460452-0580-463-999/32784411992.html? Won't be happening for a while though as I have other projects going. I am also trying to find reports on these pumps.
Regards Martin.

[Vespa no more]

Stop being tight arses and do it properly.


As mentioned elsewhere, I was pleased to find my clutch plate didn't need replacing.
 
On another front, I bought a Rover 75 for my daughter's first car. The depreciation would bring tears to your eyes: $60,000 new in 2002 and I got this one for $450 (with 7 mths rego). However, it was an intermittent starter. PO was quoted $550 for the starter motor (done for $50) and I changed the battery.


But still it wouldn't start.


Got the car scanned and everything pointed to the key. ... up to $500 to replace and get coded. And we think BMW is extortionate. Thankfully, got talking to someone from the rover club and they alerted me to the fact that the back cover of my (unattached) contained a transponder (hence the car being immobilised) since found in the dark.


And of course the car started for the first time in about 6 weeks first go with an air of absolute innocence.


So, I felt totally entitled to treat myself so another essential item for the garage (gravity feed soda blaster and set of torx drivers).


Now back to removing the clutch bell housing and towards that output shaft.


Guy

[Al]

Years ago when I was driving my Mercedes 240 D I went info some parts. The parts guy at the dealership told me to sit down. They had recently double the price of their "obsolete parts". The U joint was shot but you couldn't replace the U Joint. It had to be the entire drive shaft.

Back then it was $600 for the short piece with no U joint. He suggested taking it to a machine shop and having it bored out and a $10 cheat u joint put in. I happened to have a 300D parts car. The manual said under no circumstances should you mix parts form one drive shaft with those another. It said they were balanced separately and then together as a unit. I figured if they were both balanced separately they couldn't be very far off. So I took an hour and put one one with the other. Smooth as glass and drove it for many years after. Sometime engineers can be a tad AR. Look over the web to see if someone actually had a problem re-using stuff before letting BMW into your bank account. Don't forget the engineers designed final drives that catch fire.

[Vespa no more]

Like the TV knife ads.... wait there's more


Got the key working... remembered that the car got a little too hot too quickly and decided to change the thermostat.
V6 motor and the thermostat was mounting in the top of the motor but under the inlet manifold and associated ducting. followed the manual which told me to remove the fuel rail. No problems - know how to do this and the injectors from mucking around with my K100. Undoing the fuel rail, ultra brittle plastic tubing from EGR / PCV valve cracked and broke ... ultimately bodged this up with fuel line. Pulled the three front injectors - two of which left the o-rings, pintle valves and plastic shrouds (around FI) in the mounting recess on the motor. Local FI shop couldn't help - told me to go online... $475 per injector. The whole car cost me $450.
Will be at the local wrecking yard Wednesday.


Can't get ride of this car fast enough. Gave up on the thermostat.


Meanwhile, my bike is in bits in the garage making lonely puppy noises at me.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Back in the 90's my business partner bought a two year old Range Rover with 20,000 miles on it.  That pig cost our business over $3000 in repairs the first year he had it.  Almost $1000 to replace the left rear tail light assembly because the turn signal bulb socket was bad.  Then there was the wiper motor and the driver's seating position mechanism.

Rovers are God's way of telling you that you have too much money and you need to spread it around.