Jerky throttle, intermittently won't idle cold

[k75novice]

I had taken out all of the bad shims in order to determine their size. In order to reinsert each shim, I needed to reinsert the holding tool, but in order to insert the holding tool, I needed to use the J tool. When using the J tool at the left of exhaust cam lobe #1 to get clearance to insert the holding tool to the right of exhaust cam lobe #1, 2/2 times it fell into the empty bucket and couldn't be easily removed. An alternative approach is to take out the shims one at a time, so you never use the J tool on an empty bucket. However, if you need to take your shims out to exchange for new ones, you must take them all out at once unless you'd like to make many trips to exchange them one at a time.


Mild steel is softer than tool steel. No disrespect to the guy who makes these; $29 shipped is better than the $130 I've heard the BMW OEM tools go for (if you can still buy them). I'd buy them again and recommend them to all. I'm simply providing my full experience as I hate the millions of incomplete forum posts lacking a resolution or other critical information; from my experience, other people might not need to destroy their mild steel tools. Unresolved forum posts clog up search results, waste people's time in troubleshooting, and never seem to be deleted. This is the big failure of the automotive forum.


Thank you for pointing out that I am a novice when it comes to K75s. However, this is not my first rodeo and I have years of experience in this general field. I can handle a valve adjustment. If something goes wrong, I will add it to this complete story here.

[Laitch]

I had taken out all of the bad shims in order to determine their size. In order to reinsert each shim, I needed to reinsert the holding tool, but in order to insert the holding tool, I needed to use the J tool.

You are still not understanding the procedure. You leave the holding tool in position, take out the shim, measure it, replace it then you use the J tool to press on the replaced shim in its bucket, remove the holder and remove the J tool.   

You are the one that pointed out you are a novice in your name.

[Laitch]

When a tool is not used as it has been designed to be used, your outcome is the result.

[k75novice]

Laitch,

I have replaced my valve shims after removing them. I understand the procedure, hell, I did it eight times to remove and replace eight shims. This argument you're pushing contributes nothing and obfuscates the main findings of the thread for the hundreds who may read it years after we're both gone.


I don't think you understand that I took out all four bad shims with the intention of exchanging them at a shop. When you take out all four shims at once, unless you have four holding tools, you're going to need to use the J tool to compress the valve spring behind an empty bucket to put shims back in. I ended up not having the time to wait to exchange shims and ordered some instead.


I don't understand why you are apparently upset that I am pointing out a weakness in this soft tool along with a way to avoid doing the damage I did, unless you simply enjoy argument.


This will be my final post about these tools; all I've been trying to explain is they're not made of hardened tool steel and the J tool can be deformed easily. Be careful not to get them stuck in an empty bucket. Still, they do the job and I would recommend them for the $29 I paid.

[Laitch]

. . .unless you simply enjoy argument.
This will be my final post about these tools; all I've been trying to explain is they're not made of hardened tool steel and the J tool can be deformed easily. Be careful not to get them stuck in an empty bucket. S

They can't be stuck in an empty bucket when they are used correctly, mainly because the bucket won't be empty. Are you certain that was your last post about this tool? :giggles

For the benefit of the hundreds of people reading this thread after the dust settles and before the globe burns to a crisp, I'll just add that any tool is liable to be deformed if it isn't used correctly and it's better that the tool be damaged than the part to which it is being applied.

What I' have been trying to make crystal clear and not obfuscate, is that the shim removal and replacement procedure as performed this thread was performed incorrectly to suit a misplaced concept of convenience and consequently damaged a perfectly useful tool.

I'm looking forward to a trouble-free resolution to both this thread and your bike's condition which you intuitively diagnosed as being an electronic issue and may yet be.

[Laitch]

unecessary booocheee

A melodious Québécois turn of phrase.  :yes

[k75novice]

1000mi later, I rechecked the valve clearences. All are exactly as I left them.


But the bike still doesn't idle perfect. I'm planning to take the intake apart next chance I get and take off and examine the rubber throttle body boots, the last vacuum pieces I haven't replaced. Hoping to not have to replace all 6 because the prices I see for them hover around $30 each + shipping. If anyone has a good source for them (new), let me know.


Also, has anyone used RTV as a temporary fix for the TB boots? Might try that out while waiting for new ones.