Serious electrical system issues on 92' k1100 LT

[LUGER]

Hi everybody,
Even though I searched the forum, didn't found what i'am looking for.

I'm having some serious issues while reassembling my K1100. I've been restoring my brick to its former glory, and modding it just a bit. It was disassembled due to frame repainting.
There is some serious issue with electrics: I've installed wiring harness and plugged everything back as it ( I think) should be, but pretty much nothing works. After switching on the key switch all you can get is tail and front lights as well as blinkers. None of the control lights lit up after turning the key, even though the speedo backlight works.  Of course there is no chance of starting a motorcycle, after hitting the ignition nothing happens.
But, when I hit hi beam switch or blinkers, they work fine along with their indicator lights. Neutral indicator don't show neutral. New paint from frame and engine was removed in places where ground cables are connected.


If you guys have any ideas, please let me know cause I'm going mad. Spring is coming dudes! :musicboohoo: :musicboohoo: :musicboohoo:

[Snowman]

Start with the schematic diagram from the technical library on this site. Get yourself an electrical tester pen so you can quickly determine what wires are hot (have power) and those that do not.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4936.0.html

Print out the schematic and pick up a high-lighter pen. Mark all of the items that are working. Then starting at the battery, take one circuit at a time that is not working and trace your wires in the harness to find your problem. Do the items not working share connectors?, a common ground?, Since it is not one item not working, but multiple, there is not a golden answer for a quick fix.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

You mention that you have done some modifications.  What are they?  Did any of them involve the electrical system?

Have you cleaned all the connections with a contact cleaner?  DeOxit D5 is the stuff I use.  It has fixed several problems on my bikes.

For a tester, I have found that a buzzer is a good way to trace 12V through the system.  I like it because I can put it anywhere the wires will reach and I don't have to look at it, but can concentrate on where I am sticking my test probe. 

You can make an easy cheap one by just getting a long piece of wire with a female flat connector and connecting it to the ungrounded side of the horn.  Use the other end to look for 12V.  When you find it the horn will let you know.  If it is too loud, stick a rag in the mouth.  Carry the wire with you for roadside emergencies.  Takes up no room in the tool kit.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

For a sequence of troubleshooting, I would start at the fuses and make sure I am getting 12V through all of them when the ignition is turned on.  I have a feeling that is where your problem is.

From there go to the ignition switch and make sure all the 12V connections that are switched get power when you turn it on.  Then check the load shed relay. 

Be methodical and follow one circuit at a time starting at the battery and ending at the load.

[Snowman]

Agree with Gryphon, if the electrical system has been modified, put it back to stock and get it working again in stock form.

[Scott_]

Luger, are you working with this bike on the center stand with the side stand up?
What you are describing is the motronic electronics relay is not energized, like when the side stand is down.

[LUGER]

Scott, side stand is up, ut I tried lowering it as well as manualy trigerring side stand switch, nothing changed. Motronic power problem is a clue I must look into.
Snowman,gryphon: This is what I'll do on monday. Lots of checking ahead of me.
About electrics mods: led blinkers and rear led lamp. Windshield lowering removed. Nothing more actually.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Did you modify the wiring to stop the hyperflash on the LED turn signals? 

How about the bulb monitor unit not being happy with an LED tail light?

[Inge K.]

Check fuse #1 and its connectors.

[LUGER]

Yeah I did modofied blinkers wiring, added suitable resistors, and that work fine. Bulb monitor dont lights up, but probablyits because pretty much anything does :falldown:

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Check the power at your fuses!

[jc55]

Do you have the starter positive wire and the battery positive terminal wire swapped? It's easy to do.

[LUGER]

Strange. Swapped Abs relay with motronic relay and Dashboard lit up, even the starter motor worked after hitting ignition button. But! It all hapoened with key switch plugged of, not even switched off. There is literally No key installed at the moment. Any clues?

[LUGER]

Okay, there's No power on fuse #1 and #2. Any sugestions?

[Inge K.]

Fuse #1: check at the connector for the RHS switch assy, which you find under the tank.
You should have power at the green wire, then check the green/yellow wire....if no power
here, the problem is the kill switch.

Fuse #2: is for the tail and park light, power should be present only when head/park light is switched on.

About swapping relays....quite normal as the ABS relay is NC and the others is NO.