Idonthaveaclue's refurb thread - 87' K75S

[Laitch]

Also the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter and the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator pick up connection.

Put your bike's model and year in your profile so it will show up in every post; if you do that, responders won't need to backtrack to find out. How many miles on the seized odometer?

[Scud]

Agreed, all the rubber is suspect. Some failures are bothersome (oil from a breather line) others are potentially catastrophic (gas fire).

Here's how to avoid buying the pre-formed line to the pressure regulator - by using a spring to help the line make the bend without folding. I did it when time was of the essence. You can see that the fuel line still has a small fold in it. I plan to replace it next time I'm in there (which requires removal of airbox.)

[K1300S]

1. tank to fuel pressure regulator (pre-formed)
2. regulator to rail
3. tank to rail
4. crankcase (z) breather hose
5. caps on throttle bodies
6. union of throttle bodies to intake
7. vacuum line from pressure regulator

ALL RUBBER IS SUSPECT!

8. brake lines
9. coolant hoses
10.  monkey nuts

[Idonthaveaclue]

Also the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter and the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator pick up connection.

Put your bike's model and year in your profile so it will show up in every post; if you do that, responders won't need to backtrack to find out. How many miles on the seized odometer?

I think I broke the odometer some how - it was working when I test rode the bike. 29,700 ish.

1. tank to fuel pressure regulator (pre-formed)
2. regulator to rail
3. tank to rail
4. crankcase (z) breather hose
5. caps on throttle bodies
6. union of throttle bodies to intake
7. vacuum line from pressure regulator
8. brake lines
9. coolant hoses
10.  monkey nuts

The list is exactly what I needed - Thanks Fellas!

[K1300S]

I think I broke the odometer some how - it was working when I test rode the bike. 29,700 ish.



The list is exactly what I needed - Thanks Fellas!

it is everything i replaced in my thread....:-)

[Scud]

click on the project thread link in mlytle's signature. Read through that and you will be able to decide what you'd like to do - and get a sense of how it's all done. You will definitely have a clue after reading that.

[Laitch]

click on the project thread link in mlytle's signature. Read through that and you will be able to decide what you'd like to do - and get a sense of how it's all done. You will definitely have a clue after reading that.

Then click on this to clue yourself into the system's parts and their relationships.

[jakgieger]

Also the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter and the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator pick up connection.

These are inside the tank...

[Idonthaveaclue]

Found a local that fixes speedo/odometers and he's a K bike guy. Thinks he can repair the gears. Fingers crossed.

Also how is this suppose to be routed? Through the middle? Or around the side? And the grommet goes where?






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[Scud]

It's routed like this:

[Idonthaveaclue]

It's routed like this:

Perfect - Thanks a bunch Scud!

[Idonthaveaclue]

All back together and no extra parts! The guy cleaned in up a bit, but didn't have the 3v lights it needs inside. What's the suggested route? Also the little parking light inside the headlamp. Where should I get one of those?





Just wanted to say this forum has been super helpful - and has some great information. Really appreciate y'all.

If you're ever in the Atlanta area -look me up I owe y'all a beer.


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[Laitch]

What's the suggested route? Also the little parking light inside the headlamp. Where should I get one of those?

If "suggested route" means "where do I get the bulbs", you can get them from MAXBMW or Pandora using their microfiche sections. The parking light bulb you should be able to get at an auto parts store. Take it with you.

The Riders Manual lists the bulb types. If you don't have a manual you can download one from this site. Your gear position indicator looks wonky. You can deal with that later but there is information on repair in the Technical Library here, if it needs it.

[Idonthaveaclue]

If "suggested route" means "where do I get the bulbs", you can get them from MAXBMW or Pandora using their microfiche sections. The parking light bulb you should be able to get at an auto parts store. Take it with you.

The Riders Manual lists the bulb types. If you don't have a manual you can download one from this site. Your gear position indicator looks wonky. You can deal with that later but there is information on repair in the Technical Library here, if it needs it.

I haven't had much luck finding it local, and it was an empty socket when I got the bike..... I like the idea of switching to LED and they seem to be much cheaper. Which base does the bulb have?

[Filmcamera]

For my K100 it is BA9s and it looks like it is the same for your bike - btw the fiche you posted is for a K75 not a K75S like you have - not a big deal in this case but be sure you have the right model selected when ordering parts etc.


Not sure of the price is the US but when I got a replacement bulb like you need  here in Costa Rica it cost me less than 20 cents so cheaper is probably going to be hard to find!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Your parking light is one place where an LED probably isn't the best way to go.  Most LED's have a pattern where all the emitted light goes axially straight out.  You need a bulb with 360 degree radial pattern. 

Some LED replacement bulbs can have their diffusion improved slightly by lightly scuffing the clear part of the lens with 600 grit sandpaper.   Still, a regular bulb may be the way to go. 

[Idonthaveaclue]

So, went on a longer trip than usual. I've found that the rear shock is "sticking" in the compressed position.


Is it time to Ol' Yeller it? Or can we revive it?

[mw074]

Scrap it. The stock shock can't be re-built.

[Martin]

RAD shocks in Brisbane does rebuild OEM shocks . I am currently running one and it is apparently better than OEM. I would assume that someone in the US would be doing them.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Contact Works Performance:

http://www.worksperformance.com/

They claim to be able to rebuild and tune anybody's shocks.  They also have a line of shocks designed for K bricks.

They should be able to tell you what to do.

[Scud]

For a budget replacement, I put a new Progressive shock on my K75s - I think it was a little over $200. It was great improvement over the dead stock unit. Then I found an Ohlins (on another bike) and paid dearly (close to $500) for it to be rebuilt. Now it is so superior that I will have to invest in the front end.


So... it's about whether you want reliable transportation or whether you really enjoy an upgraded suspension.

[mw074]

I didn't know anyone was rebuilding the stock shocks. I have run Works, Progressive and Fox shocks. I prefer the Progressive.

[Idonthaveaclue]

I didn't know anyone was rebuilding the stock shocks. I have run Works, Progressive and Fox shocks. I prefer the Progressive.

Ok Progressive also seems to be the cheapest. What model? Can I adjust for luggage/ my old lady?

For a budget replacement, I put a new Progressive shock on my K75s - I think it was a little over $200. It was great improvement over the dead stock unit. Then I found an Ohlins (on another bike) and paid dearly (close to $500) for it to be rebuilt. Now it is so superior that I will have to invest in the front end.

I'd like a better ride - and figured the front springs needed love too. But 5 hundo seems excessive.....

[The Mighty Gryphon]

You own a Beemer, you're rolling in cash... :hehehe

[Scud]

A premium shock with a reservoir and remote pre-load adjuster starts at probably about $1,200 and goes up to as much as you feel like paying. Suspension can get expensive.