Triple headlight (any lighting experts here).

[TheJoker]

Hello, I'm considering adding a light bar like you see on most cruisers and custom bikes as seen below in the quick mock up image plus two extra spotlights down at the forks.


Now what I'm wondering since I haven't actually found the headlights yet, do you think the current system would handle 3 55w headlights plus two led spotlights or would it be best turning them all into led's. I'll be doing it for extra light and presence on the road.

Also as I'm a novice with electrics, heck I've only just done the wiring for my indicators and new headlight, anyone know the system that I would have to use.  Not sure how I would split the current system or whether it would be best making up a new loom.

Any help and information appreciated.

Cheers,
Sam.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Three 55 watt bulbs are going to draw something in the neighborhood of 13 amps.  Considering that your alternator probably puts out 35 amps, I would think you could be pretty close to needing a higher output alternator. 

On the other hand, there are LED driving lights that put out incredible amounts of intensely bright light and only draw 1 amp.  The downside of the LED lights that I have seen, especially the lower price units is that they have rather poor pattern control and can blind, or at least annoy, oncoming drivers at night.  However, they do make you very visible in daylight.

[TheJoker]

Three 55 watt bulbs are going to draw something in the neighborhood of 13 amps.  Considering that your alternator probably puts out 35 amps, I would think you could be pretty close to needing a higher output alternator. 

On the other hand, there are LED driving lights that put out incredible amounts of intensely bright light and only draw 1 amp.  The downside of the LED lights that I have seen, especially the lower price units is that they have rather poor pattern control and can blind, or at least annoy, oncoming drivers at night.  However, they do make you very visible in daylight.

Hmm I've been reading up on the modification of a bigger alternator looks like it might be the way forward. Doesn't look like too much hard work as well just a bit time consuming. Then again as I say I am a novice. So would have to look into the wiring. Surely going via upgrading the alternator the load shed relay would take a whack if you don't add extra relays in. I'm just guessing here.

LED's I'm tempted at but it's finding what I'm after that isn't the same price as the moon, motorway riding and country lanes are more of a concern than being seen in the daylight. I've got the decent horn on the bike for during the day.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Only takes about two hours to change alternators.  You need to pull the battery to get the old one out.  then you swap the clutch, lube up the monkey nuts(or replace them if worn) and put the new one in.

As far as lights, I use these on all three of my bricks.  Very visible in daylight, and when aimed slightly toward the side of the road don't have oncoming drivers flashing their high beams at me. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-10W-LED-Work-Light-CREE-Spot-Beam-for-SUV-JEEP-4WD-Driving-Lamp-Truck-CAR-/282006966194?hash=item41a8eccfb2:g:oFUAAOSwV-RXEhhQ&vxp=mtr

[TheJoker]

Only takes about two hours to change alternators.  You need to pull the battery to get the old one out.  then you swap the clutch, lube up the monkey nuts(or replace them if worn) and put the new one in.

As far as lights, I use these on all three of my bricks.  Very visible in daylight, and when aimed slightly toward the side of the road don't have oncoming drivers flashing their high beams at me. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-10W-LED-Work-Light-CREE-Spot-Beam-for-SUV-JEEP-4WD-Driving-Lamp-Truck-CAR-/282006966194?hash=item41a8eccfb2:g:oFUAAOSwV-RXEhhQ&vxp=mtr

Hmm that sounds like a mod most people should do then if they want to put any extra lights or load onto there k's then simple enough. However I don't see why the clutch should be removed at maximum it would be the gearbox housing if you are struggling for room. Also does that mean the wiring doesn't really need to be changed; surely the battery wire would have to be changed at the minimum due to the old system only capable of carrying so much load.

Nice lights by the way I was looking at similar on ebay these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112160777254

Cheers,
Sam.

[Laitch]

Nice lights by the way I was looking at similar on ebay these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112160777254

Before you buy anything, of course, you should have a recommendation from people who use them or at the very least, a beam pattern diagram. Some very handsome-looking lights are only useful for conspicuity, not for illuminating the road.

As far as the alternator is concerned, read this explanation from somebody who sells upgrades. Larger output alternators are available from several other sources, too.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The clutch I was talking about is the cup shaped thingy on the alternator shaft.  A new alternator will most likely not have one, so you'll have to swap it from your old alternator.

I use the lights I linked to at night and they work pretty well.  I live in a rural area with a lot of deer and do a fair amount of night driving when I come home from work.  While they could throw a beam a bit further down the road the illumination they give is awesome out to about a hundred yards and is a definite addition to the stock headlight.

[Laitch]

With the understanding that most security devices can be breeched by determined thieves, if your chain is only securing the front wheel, I could rip that wheel from its fork and calipers in less than two minutes followed by me and another guy holding the bike by its handlebar then dragging it into a van. We'd pick up a front wheel later if we needed one. Chaining through the rear wheel would take us longer, we'd need more tools and we'd need more initiative. It would probably be less attractive; we might take the front wheel but that won't get us much.

If we were average scum, and you had chains anchoring both the front and the rear wheel, we'd move on.

[TheJoker]

Before you buy anything, of course, you should have a recommendation from people who use them or at the very least, a beam pattern diagram. Some very handsome-looking lights are only useful for conspicuity, not for illuminating the road.

As far as the alternator is concerned, read this explanation from somebody who sells upgrades. Larger output alternators are available from several other sources, too.

My friend has the one's I linked on his pan european he is a courier and travels all across europe plus using the bike for a lot of normal riding. Thank you for the link though I'll give it some reading and look into it more. I want to make up a new front wiring loom anyway at the moment I've had to chop the old indicator wires this would also make it a lot neater encase I have problems in the future.

The clutch I was talking about is the cup shaped thingy on the alternator shaft.  A new alternator will most likely not have one, so you'll have to swap it from your old alternator.

I use the lights I linked to at night and they work pretty well.  I live in a rural area with a lot of deer and do a fair amount of night driving when I come home from work.  While they could throw a beam a bit further down the road the illumination they give is awesome out to about a hundred yards and is a definite addition to the stock headlight.

Ah the basket yeah, I was reading a page on here before where someone converted one to work on his k1100 where he had to use some washers as shims to get it to fit. To be honest I'd most probably go for them however with them coming from the states, there would most probably be some import duty on them. Not really worth the risk. It could double or triple the over all price.

With the understanding that most security devices can be breeched by determined thieves, if your chain is only securing the front wheel, I could rip that wheel from its fork and calipers in less than two minutes followed by me and another guy holding the bike by its handlebar then dragging it into a van. We'd pick up a front wheel later if we needed one. Chaining through the rear wheel would take us longer, we'd need more tools and we'd need more initiative. It would probably be less attractive; we might take the front wheel but that won't get us much.

If we were average scum, and you had chains anchoring both the front and the rear wheel, we'd move on.

This isn't where the bike is stored just where I do my work on the bike, the chain goes around both of my bikes anyway at night into a ground anchor. Cheers for the advice though.