Building a bike that the mods will wish they had

[BENSPEN]

Love to positive feedback on the white pinstripe! Here's a pic! (Don't worry, will soda blast the dirty aluminum soon!)

[BAMBAM1039]

i also was curious why the primer was high gloss white and was it specific for aluminum parts as that is required for good adhesion and all the paint will last longer if made for high temp best of luck looks good so far

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The cam chain tensioner is spring loaded with a ratchet.  This gives the basic tension on the cam chain and when the engine is not running.

The actual tension comes from oil pressure when the engine is running.  The cylinder where the spring is held is also a hydraulic cylinder that uses the engine's oil pressure to put force on the chain to tension it.

[BENSPEN]

The cam chain tensioner is spring loaded with a ratchet.  This gives the basic tension on the cam chain and when the engine is not running.

The actual tension comes from oil pressure when the engine is running.  The cylinder where the spring is held is also a hydraulic cylinder that uses the engine's oil pressure to put force on the chain to tension it.

Okay, perfect thank you so much, I will preload the cylinder to give the chain basic pre load, and clean the hole in the back to promote oil flow. Thank you!

i also was curious why the primer was high gloss white and was it specific for aluminum parts as that is required for good adhesion and all the paint will last longer if made for high temp best of luck looks good so far

Yeah, I probably should not have primed the fins directly, I didn't clear coat it and figured that would help, but I don't really know. I had a can of black paint. I used it the way I thought would work the best and we'll see If there are any negative reprecussions. Thank you, I plan on making a lot of progress soon, so it will be cool to see if it shapes up the way I'd like it to.

[jc55]

Engines don't require high temp paint. They don't get hot enough. Your brake calipers can get hotter than your engine.
Heating up parts before painting them seems to help move the 'heat range'. If you paint an engine at 125 degrees vs 65 degrees and shocking it at 250 degrees. I've seen pros do this on 300k builds.


3m fine line tape may also match your fins. It's great for pinstriping and doesn't bleed through.

[Martin]

Rustoleum satin black is a good match for the OEM engine finish. Easy to apply and reasonably durable, and not effected by the engine heat.
Regards Martin

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I recently discovered another option for the engine or any other black parts.  Flat or satin black engine enamel covered with Dupli-Color matte finish clear coat.  The clear gives an almost perfect matte finish and is an awful lot harder than the plain enamel. 

The finish schedule is two coats of the black about 30 minutes apart followed by two light coats of clear 5 minutes apart with a final medium wet coat of clear.   The final coat should done within one hour of the last black coat.  Parts are dry to handle in one hour, to assemble in 24 hours and reach full hardness in seven days. 

If necessary, you can do a very light sanding with gray Scotchbrite or 600 grit between the first and second clear coats to smooth out any roughness and get a satin smooth finish with the final clear coat.

[BENSPEN]

Well, I feel like a douche for constantly asking you guys questions, but I almost through the meat of this project and I have the engine reassembled and I have theseen clips, and I don't know where they came from, could one of you please tell me?


Thank you so much
-Ben

[jc55]

Fuel injectors

[BENSPEN]

Fuel injectors

Thank you!

[nods]

I recently discovered another option for the engine or any other black parts.  Flat or satin black engine enamel covered with Dupli-Color matte finish clear coat.  The clear gives an almost perfect matte finish and is an awful lot harder than the plain enamel. 

The finish schedule is two coats of the black about 30 minutes apart followed by two light coats of clear 5 minutes apart with a final medium wet coat of clear.   The final coat should done within one hour of the last black coat.  Parts are dry to handle in one hour, to assemble in 24 hours and reach full hardness in seven days. 

If necessary, you can do a very light sanding with gray Scotchbrite or 600 grit between the first and second clear coats to smooth out any roughness and get a satin smooth finish with the final clear coat.

Thanks Martin, Gryph.


Gryph - regarding the engine covers, transmission, block, etc what primer do you use?  Are there different products to be used such as etch primer, spray putty, primer?  It's been over 20 years since I've used a spray gun in anger, and I've never done it with rattle can.


And when you say "or any other black parts" does that include plastic such as the front fender for this method?  Does plastic just mean a different primer?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I give the parts a good cleaning with degreaser then sand or wire brush with my Dremel to get the loose paint and corrosion off of the  aluminum parts.  Then I do a treatment with aluminum jelly to cleanup the corrosion followed by aluminum primer. 

Steel parts get an overnight in white vinegar followed by a rust converting primer.  If the pitting is bad some high build primer and maybe some Nitrostan putty. 

Then the paint goes on. 

Of course, I am talking about mechanical parts like engine and frame.  Cosmetic stuff like the fairing and other body parts get an entirely different treatment. To answer your question about FLEXIBLE plastic parts like front fenders, the main difference is to use an adhesion promoter as the first coat on bare plastic.  Rigid plastic gets high build primer. 

I don't use rattle cans on cosmetic parts.  Rather I do the base coat with one part paint shot through a cheap airbrush(time consuming, but practically impossible to f-up) followed by clear applied by a local collision shop in their booth.

[Martin]

+1 on the airbrush, but make sure your compressor is pushing out dry air otherwise use the disposable air cans. At times my compressor puts out too much water due to the high humidity found in QLD. My water trap can't cope. I'm due to get another air brush, mines about 30 years old, they are slow but it's hard to stuff up the paint job and they are super economical on paint. Practice on a bit of scrap to get you technique right.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I get these moisture filters at Harbor Freight.  Use them for the job and then toss them.  Just a bit of insurance to catch what gets past my water trap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html

I have a pair of quick disconnects that I use to install the moisture filter at the end of the air line where the air brush hose connects to it.

[Martin]

Your teasing me Gryph we don't have Harbour Freight.  :musicboohoo: I did have a look for them on Ebay and can get something similar from China though not throwaway. Do you think they would cope with 90% humidity?
Regards a jealous Martin

[The Mighty Gryphon]

90% is pretty bad, most paint won't cure properly at that level.  I would look for a rechargeable desiccant moisture trap.  You can make your own with a large water filter housing and a couple pounds of molecular sieve desiccant.   You can dry the desiccant in your oven by heating it on a tray to 350F for an hour.  Put the dryer ahead of a good filter to trap any dust that may be released by the desiccant.

[Martin]

I tend to wait for the humidity to go down. And since moving up here I have used pressure pack paints and air brush with disposable air cans, although the local car parts shop Supercheap no longer stocks the air cans or air brushes. I will probably try a local big hobby supply shop for both. You see Gryph we might not have snow, but there are still disadvantages to living in paradise, humidity and tropical rain ( read torrential unable to see). Thanks for the tips.
Regards Martin.

[BENSPEN]

Hello,
I have a few more questions and I'm wondering if you guys could please help me finish reassembling my bike!


Also, idk why the forum changed every queered-out word to queered-out but a least do it right, queered-out does not work grammatically, queer would have been better, but nice try ;).


Can anyone tell me where this grommet thing Iso supposed to go? It's on the mass airflow sensor wire.


Also, where does this fuel line go?


Thanks!

[Martin]

Ben you need to reduce the size of your images not downloading properly.
Regards Martin.

[BENSPEN]

Any better?

[jakgieger]

Also, idk why the forum changed every queered-out word to queered-out but a least do it right, queered-out does not work grammatically, queer would have been better, but nice try ;).

Yep, Ben, some kinda funny going on here...kinda like in Washington.  Maybe not funny-haha either ?

[Laitch]

Also, idk why the forum changed every queered-out word to queered-out but a least do it right, queered-out does not work grammatically, queer would have been better, but nice try ;).

Put another way, it's slang, Ben. Slang doesn't need to work grammatically.

[BENSPEN]

Hate to get in a grammar argument here, but I feel slang does need grammatical agreement. Queered-out racer does not sound right, queer racer would have been better.


What is it slang for?
How Is it an idiom?/what do you mean by its an idiom?


Either way, change my thread name back pls

[Laitch]

What is it slang for?
How Is it an idiom?/what do you mean by its an idiom?
Either way, change my thread name back pls

Slang is a way for groups to create a language with special meaning for themselves, among other things. Sometimes slang gets accepted by a wider range of people. Think of it as shorthand—if you know what that is—or shortbread if you like cookies. Slang works as well grammatically as pls does.

When someone says something is sick do they mean it is cool or do they mean it is ill? If they mean it is cool, how cool—40ºF or cooler? Do they mean they like it? If somebody is freaking out, should they instead be freaking in? If something is the bomb, should Homeland Security be called? And so on.

You've shown initiative with your title.  :clap:

[jc55]

You're right Benspen. But culturally speaking, queered-out did not come from a US hacker. I have money on the fact that an Eastern Canadian purist did it. Why? It's partially corny and childish in an innocent way but non harmful. Partially childish from stateside would be some obscene vulgarity and due to our extreme custom car and motorcycle culture, it wouldn't have crossed our minds.


So, am I right?