87 K75C, Bone Stock and DONE.

[Martin]

Trek I'll save you a bit of pain if you do buy a Gunson. There are probably better dearer ones out there but I love mine. When you first get it don't be disappointed with it's light weight cheap looking construction, mine is still going after 19 years. I borrowed a professional one worth a supposed $5000.00 which had more features, and did a comparison and came up with the same readings. I used it again 2 years ago to check  the  calibration and settings were still accurate. There is a newer Model G4125 I don't think internally it would be much difference your call. When calibrating the bike take it for a 10-15 min ride to warm it up. I have a large fan pointed at my radiator while tuning and the bikes fan going, this is due to the fact that in order to get it right it requires time and patience. Follow the instructions to the letter allow the machine time to settle when doing the initial calibration and set it up so the condensation can drain. Once going adjust in very small increments, sometimes you start going one direction then you have to go the other way, be patient. It is important not to rev the engine once the probe is inserted, if you need to rev the engine remove the probe. It is very important once you have completed the tuning to leave the unit connected to a power source and allow it to purge. This is the last part of tuning, so make sure you have done the throttle body air bypass balancing, and valve clearance check in order for it to be accurate. Treat it with care, don't drop it, don't lend it and it will serve you well.
Good luck Martin.

[trek97]

Whether it's carburators or throttle bodies, whenever a thread like this pops up there is always someone who has an "uh-oh" moment that has removed the plenum plate or dismantled the carb rack or twiddled with the butterfly screws...

THanks dude good info in there,  I assure I'm not about touch any part of THIS system until I have a pretty clear idea of what's going on in there. 


Got more homework to do yet.

[trek97]

Trek I'll save you a bit of pain if you do buy a Gunson. There are probably better dearer ones out there but I love mine. When you first get it don't be disappointed with it's light weight cheap looking construction, mine is still going after 19 years. I borrowed a professional one worth a supposed $5000.00 which had more features, and did a comparison and came up with the same readings. I used it again 2 years ago to check  the  calibration and settings were still accurate. There is a newer Model G4125 I don't think internally it would be much difference your call. When calibrating the bike take it for a 10-15 min ride to warm it up. I have a large fan pointed at my radiator while tuning and the bikes fan going, this is due to the fact that in order to get it right it requires time and patience. Follow the instructions to the letter allow the machine time to settle when doing the initial calibration and set it up so the condensation can drain. Once going adjust in very small increments, sometimes you start going one direction then you have to go the other way, be patient. It is important not to rev the engine once the probe is inserted, if you need to rev the engine remove the probe. It is very important once you have completed the tuning to leave the unit connected to a power source and allow it to purge. This is the last part of tuning, so make sure you have done the throttle body air bypass balancing, and valve clearance check in order for it to be accurate. Treat it with care, don't drop it, don't lend it and it will serve you well.
Good luck Martin.

thanks bud.  :2thumbup:

[trek97]

Good morning fellas.  Feeling confident I now know enough about this fuel inj to be dangerous.  Prepping to warm her up to check sync.





  The new Auto Zone battery the PO installed is junk.  I had it fully charged and it welded the solenoid contacts.  Pulled solenoid opened it up to clean up.  Ended up just replacing it w a better solenoid I had bought for my garden tractor.


 


Then, found the battery wouldnt even pick the new solenoid.  HA.  So jumped battery directly to starter.  Fully charged it wouldnt crank the engine one turn.  JUNK ARGH!  After some digging on here I found and ordered the highly recommended Odyssey Extreme PC680.





  While waiting for the battery I did some more tests and found I get 12v to solenoid by pulling the clutch but only 9v through the Neutral sw.  Hmm.  So, dug into that.  Found I got a flaky switch.  Keeping in neutral a wiggle of the shift lever I read as high as 14+ ohms through the switch.  So got a new one.








Also, while digging for Neutral sw info.  Stumbled across a Bulletin detailing the water pump rebuild.  Found I should have installed the new style impeller along w new slip seal. So I ordered all that.  Apparently the Special tool for properly installing the slip seal is no longer available...I found Bike bandit offers the tool for sale.  Ordered and a couple hours later recieved email "Unavailable"  So texted my buddy Kiley down in B-ham Alabama.  He is currently making the tool.  Maybe in the mail Monday.   :clap:





Oh and ordered a fresh starter.  As long as Im digging in this deep Im not gonna mess around.  Plan to rebuild the original and putting it on the shelf.





Anyone got any words of wisdom about pulling the swing arm before I get started installing the new switch?
[/size]

[Laitch]

Anyone got any words of wisdom about pulling the swing arm before I get started installing the new switch?

You might as replace the clutch rod boot and spring, remove the transmission then clean and lube the input shaft splines.

[trek97]

You might as replace the clutch rod boot and spring, remove the transmission then clean and lube the input shaft splines.

Earlier I adjusted the clutch cable properly and the leak has completely stopped, (been better than a month now).  However, I need to install my modified clutch lever.  So,  My plan while Im into it.  Is pull the boot, clean inspect and seal w black.  Or replace if needed.


Is the swing removal and re-install pretty much straight forward?  Or any secret tips the manuals dont offer?


Ive had the final drive and drive shaft out twice, already.  So, Im pretty good at doing that now.  HA!


Idk about removing the transmission.  I havent read any procedure for replacing the switch yet, though.  LOL.  does the tranny need to come out for that? 

[trek97]

Just read through the swing arm and gear selector sw procedure.  Seems pretty easy and straight forward. 
 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The key part of the swingarm job is torquing the the screw and nut on the left hand pivot.

I am with Laitch on his recommendation to pull the transmission to lube the clutch splines.  There is no need to pull the transmission completely.  All you need do is slide it back about 2-3 inches on a couple 4" long 8mm bolts screwed into the engine.  Then you can go in with a parts cleaning brush to put a light coat of lube on the spline.  Shouldn't add more than two hours to the whole job and will help make shifting, especially down, smoother.

[Martin]

The gear selector switch is subject to a lot of water and road crap, I coated mine with Plastidip using a small brush and it's been fine for about 15 years. I pulled apart my old one cleaned it up and Plastidipped it as a spare. You might also want to fit a grease nipple to the clutch pivot arm, occasional greasing keeps the road crap out.
Regards Martin.

[trek97]

The key part of the swingarm job is torquing the the screw and nut on the left hand pivot.

I am with Laitch on his recommendation to pull the transmission to lube the clutch splines.  There is no need to pull the transmission completely.  All you need do is slide it back about 2-3 inches on a couple 4" long 8mm bolts screwed into the engine.  Then you can go in with a parts cleaning brush to put a light coat of lube on the spline.  Shouldn't add more than two hours to the whole job and will help make shifting, especially down, smoother.

AH, Now Im w you.  I had misunderstood what I read earlier.  INPUT shaft clutch splines.  gotcha!

The gear selector switch is subject to a lot of water and road crap, I coated mine with Plastidip using a small brush and it's been fine for about 15 years. I pulled apart my old one cleaned it up and Plastidipped it as a spare. You might also want to fit a grease nipple to the clutch pivot arm, occasional greasing keeps the road crap out.
Regards Martin.

OK, just so happens I got a can of plastidip handy.  Thanks.


I did your lever mod earlier, I will get it installed during this job.

[Martin]

How could I forget that work of art, I will send mine for you to work your magic on.  :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.

[trek97]

How could I forget that work of art, I will send mine for you to work your magic on.  :2thumbup:
Regards Martin.

10-4 bud!  We can do'er up fancy.   :euro

[trek97]

HA!  the gear selection switch might need a bit more than just a cleaning.  Probably got some water in it, then suffered an Illinois winter or two.

[Martin]

Mine looked worse than that, you have nothing to loose give it a go.
Regards Martin.

[Elipten]

Mine looked the same.  Crap manufacturing IMHO.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[trek97]

Mine looked the same.  Crap manufacturing IMHO.

Its starting to sound that way

[trek97]

OK gents.  Gave the new switch 4-5 thick coats of plastidip spray.  Paying close attention to the seam where the cover meets the body and the wires go in.


Finally found 120mm bolts for tranny.  So, heres my thinking.


gonna drain trans oil. 
Pull alternator for cleaning and check bearings, etc.
pull coil pack.
Swap trans bolts for the longer bolts and ease trans back till I can access the spines, clean and lube.


Anything Im missing on this?  Is threebond suitable for re-assembly or am I needing a better product?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

No need for Threebond between the transmission and the intermediate section.

I found that those 120mm bolts work really nice for guiding the alternator back into place as well.

[trek97]

10-4 bud.






I see the small rod link between the clutch lever and side stand will need to come apart.

Should the clutch boot/push rod and all that remain intact and in position during all this?


Presently, I dont have any leaks from the trans but are there any o-rings / seals that I would considering replacing at this time?

[billday]

You can leave the lever on, but don't let it snap back to where the spring wants to put it -- that will tear the boot.

I loop a piece of cord or a long zip tie through the hole in the housing that retains the clutch cable, then around the lever.

[trek97]

You can leave the lever on, but don't let it snap back to where the spring wants to put it -- that will tear the boot.

I loop a piece of cord or a long zip tie through the hole in the housing that retains the clutch cable, then around the lever.

Im picking up what your putting down.  Thanks bud.

[trek97]

Cut the heads off the 120mm bolts.  Using the bolts to guide and support things was a huge help.  Thanks!!!





Toughest part of the whole job was removing the clutch lever without damaging the bushings and Unplugging the coils.  HA!!!





Splines look a bit dry and dirty.  Otherwise appear to be in perfect condition.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The clutch slides back and forth on those splines when you change gears.  Dry splines don't wear that much in that application, but by allowing the clutch parts to slide a bit easier, your shifting will be noticeably smoother, especially downshifting from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st.

With a couple table spoons of molybdenum disulfide added to the transmission oil you can have a transmission that shifts as smooth as a rice burner.

[trek97]

The clutch slides back and forth on those splines when you change gears.  Dry splines don't wear that much in that application, but by allowing the clutch parts to slide a bit easier, your shifting will be noticeably smoother, especially downshifting from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st.

With a couple table spoons of molybdenum disulfide added to the transmission oil you can have a transmission that shifts as smooth as a rice burner.

[trek97]

hey guys.  I can easily tell the clutch rod is starting into its hole. 
However, I can not get the splines to mesh. 
The gear box just stops 5/8inch from home. (when the splines contact.)
I have reached in there w a long screwdriver and spun the shaft 50 times. 
But cant seem to line them up to get it pushed on.


Is it just a matter of keep trying til it goes?  OR am I missing something?