K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers

[Filmcamera]

Great thanks

[The Mighty Gryphon]

+1 on the monkey knutz being in good shape.   

I don't know what that other terminal is for, but since everything worked in the past and the electrical drawings only show two wires connected to the alternator, the chances are pretty good that it isn't needed.

Looking forward to hearing what the alternator test finds.   

[Filmcamera]

Looking in Clymer that terminal is left empty in their photo as well so I am going to ignore it!

[Laitch]

. . . and a dab of rubber or heavy silicone grease can help to keep your nuts located.
Regards Martin.

Doesn't look like he's dislocated his nuts yet but his continuing obsession with this problem might bring that about. :giggles

[Filmcamera]

I got a new (to me) progressive rear shock today - thanks JC55 - does anyone know how to adjust the preload when you do not have the wrench?

[Laitch]

. . . does anyone know how to adjust the preload when you do not have the wrench?

It's a 412, right? You can see what you need to do. You put the bike on the center stand to get the rear wheel off the ground then imitate a wrench by grabbing the adjuster ring with a leather glove and rotating it with eye-popping force and a primal grunt. You could rotate it within the padded jaws of a long-handled water pump plier. You could smack it with a screwdriver and mallet but that would bite the edge. You could trace the perimeter and have an imitation cut from plate steel with a torch and using an illustration of the wrench to locate the position of the tooth. You could use the one in your tool kit that you use to measure your transmission fluid, if it's still there, if you have a tool kit.

Many options beneath the tropical sun.

[Martin]

Or buy an adjustable "C" spanner from a tool shop.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

Me? An original tool kit?? Nope that is long gone, a replacement is on my Christmas list but at $190 Santa had better be feeling pretty generous.


Until then I will try some of the other methods, thanks.


I am putting on a short person 412 - 13.2 inches.  I am looking forward to seeing the difference, coming off is what I am pretty sure is the original Showa B007 which is totally shot, I lose traction a number of times as the rear wheel bounces on the way up my hill.


Meanwhile the alternator has been in the shop for over a week and they haven t even told me if they can fix it yet.  Precious dry season days are being wasted, the rainy season typically starts after Easter  :musicboohoo:

[Martin]

Ebay "C" spanners start at $7.00 non adjustable $10.00 adjustable.

[Laitch]

Ebay "C" spanners start at $7.00 non adjustable $10.00 adjustable.

Good call, Martin. I was a little too third world in my thinking.

[Laitch]

I lose traction a number of times as the rear wheel bounces on the way up my hill.

Which gear are you typically using when you're bouncing?

[Filmcamera]

Either first or second - it is a very steep hill in parts and the road surface is so bad that over about 20 mph is tough  So on the really steep bits I am in 1st at 3000 revs and on the flatter bits 2nd at 2000 or so.

[Laitch]

Downhill must be a clench. What's the elevation?

[Filmcamera]

Not that high, about 1000m above sea level and yes down hill is fun - especially two up - when my brakes were on the fritz I used to go down super slowly.  Now they are better I feel a bit more confident but since it is also narrow and a dead end road people coming up in cars tend to use both sides of the road so I take it carefully.  The driveway to my house is the worst bit though, it does a 180 degree  turn and gains 3 meters in height over 12 meters - I will go up that two up but down - not yet, I make the missus get on once I have gone round that bend...


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[Laitch]

Not that high, about 1000m above sea level and yes down hill is fun - especially two up - when my brakes were on the fritz I used to go down super slowly. 

The Vermont Driver's Manual thirty years ago had a statement that I thought was quintessentially pithy, having come up from Miami where aggressive driving and road rage were performance art in 1980. In its opening paragraph it stated, Sometimes, five miles an hour is too fast.

Tourists don't believe that until they hear it when being pulled from a snowbank. :giggles

[Filmcamera]

I installed my new rear shock today.  It is MUCH shorter than the original, so much so I can now flat foot both feet while sitting on the bike - not bad for only 5 ft 6.


The problem, however, is that I now cannot get the bike on the center stand anymore.  I did finally manage to but only by building a ramp to raise the rear wheel a couple of inches more so I could get the center stand further down and get more leverage on it.


I think I am going to stick with it anyway. I can keep a ramp at home for getting it on the center stand and use the side stand when I am out and about.   I know that might lead to smoky brick syndrome a bit but honestly the bike is now so low that the side stand angle is a lot less than normal (though still enough to feel safe).


I have not been able to test ride it yet, I am still waiting for the alternator to be fixed, which will be next week at the earliest now since it is Semana Santa this week (Easter) and the whole country closes down for the week.

[Martin]

You could remove the centre stand and cut it down and sleeve it. It would give you something to do over Semana Santa.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

I do not really want to do that - perhaps crazily I think of future non tiny owners who might put a normal shock back on and therefore not be able to use the center stand if it is cut down...


Before I make any long term decisions I need to ride it, I am worried it is going to bottom out a lot going up and down my hill.


Time will tell.


Meanwhile here are a couple of photos


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[Martin]

If you were in the US you could probably pick up a spare stand cheap off one of the Café builders. Probably not much of a chance where you are.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

It is a progressive suspension 1371 245/340

[Filmcamera]

Progressive 412-4016B 13.2 inches

[Laitch]

I'm wondering that if you lowered the triple tree on the fork tubes by the same .75" or so that the rear was lowered by the replacement shock—a task that is recommended generally when lowering the rear—you'd unload some weight on the rear and gain some distance to develop momentum that would help you when you attempt to lift the bike onto the stand.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Lowering the front will improve the handling with the lower rear end, but it will lower the center of gravity another 3/8" making it that much harder to get the bike up on the center stand.

[Laitch]

Lowering the front will improve the handling with the lower rear end, but it will lower the center of gravity another 3/8" making it that much harder to get the bike up on the center stand.

It's worth a try, not that I don't appreciate your negativity, Gryph.

[Filmcamera]

I had already lowered the front a little but was thinking to do it some more to match the lowered rear end.  I was planning to do a test ride first though, the new rear shock has lowered the rear over an inch, maybe more.  I am concerned it might bottom out on my hill so before going to far I want to ride it. It will be next week before I can ride it though with the alternator situation.


When I have used my ramp and put the bike on the center stand the rear tyre is 3 inches off the ground. I am worried that shock was built with a monolever set up in  mind, not a paralever like mine and it might be too much of a height lowering.