K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers

[MaraudeRS]

I'm pretty sure you don't need to disturb the clutch nut, compression ring and the o-ring to do the clutch as long as you leave the housing in place.

Here's a clutch from a K1100 with only 35k miles on it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-assembly-K1100RS-BMW-95-may-fit-k75-k100-s-rt-lt-K10-/122273593739?hash=item1c7812f98b:g:H10AAOSwux5YViP6&vxp=mtr

Thanks for this link, Gryph! I'm gonna buy a part off of him.


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

Dude, that link is for Filmcamera.   :nono

[MaraudeRS]

I didn't buy the clutch assembly, I bought the center stand ;)


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[Filmcamera]

I got the clutch assembly, thanks Gryph


On another note I have changed out the speedo rear sensor, cleaned the pins ad nauseum and nada.


I am thinking the gauge unit needs changing.


I have the possibility of buying one from a fellow motobricker but the photo he sent it looks slightly different to mine.


Mine is the first darker ratty looking one...


Apparently his comes off a 89/90 K100LT - as far as I can tell it should fit fine with my 1991 K100 RS but a little confirmation would be great.

[MaraudeRS]

Go on maxbmwmotorcycles.com to check if his will fit your bike. That's what I did for he centerstand I just bought. I compared the part numbers for both bikes.

Those clusters are $1151.00 new!! What do the sell for used?


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[Filmcamera]

Yeah I tried that but because it is the whole cluster in one piece I don't have a part number I can use as a reference

[MaraudeRS]

Looks like yours is part # 62 11 2 305 258


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[Filmcamera]

Now I am confused - if I put that part number into Real OEM - 62112305018 it says it was on the K589 K1 and K100RS as well as K1100's

But if I get the part number for the k100LT - 62111459901 it says it was also on the K589 K100RS

So one side says it is the same and the other says it is different.

I am fairly sure it would work with my bike.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I can't speak to interchangeability, but I have noticed that all the brick models with Paralever final drives and Motronic engine controls have a different cluster from the models with Monolever and Jetronic.  It would take a good look at the schematics to see where things like tach signals are coming from and what kind of signal is generated in the final drive. 

On the surface, it is easy to see that the meter movement is different between the two different models as far as the angle the needle swings through.  To me this raises a flag that says there may also be something different behind the panel that will affect how the instrument works. 

IMO, unless someone else has used a 2v K100 cluster successfully on a 4v model I would avoid setting myself up as a guinea pig. 

On the other hand, there are a number of clusters on my favorite source for used parts.  There is a cluster there for $60 or best offer.  If you have good glass in your cluster, this could be a very attractive, cost efficient option. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-BMW-K1100-LT-Instrument-Cluster-151013-/221793400100?hash=item33a3eab524:g:rLcAAOSwpDdVccQ~&vxp=mtr

If you are interested confirm with the seller that it is a working cluster before making an offer.  That will be an important point if you need to file a claim through eBay. 

[Martin]

If it's just the glass that is crazed they can be cut out and duplicated. But it is not a job for the faint hearted, you need a Dremel and a very steady hand ( I made up a jig to make mine into a router so I could not cut too deep). Had a plastic Perspex specialist shop make me up a couple of sets. a full glass including all the markings . And a left and right side necessitating leaving the middle portion, this is the easiest way. Cost me $20.00 for the three pieces.  Once cut out you need to glue it back in with acid free silicone.
Regards Martin.

[billday]

Hey Filmcamera, my advice is just buy a new one. I have gone through a few on my K100 and a fresh start beats fussing with the innards, in my opinion. The price has been going down lately too.

One exception: The odo/trip odo unit can be serviced or replaced, and that can be worth doing. And there are a couple of tricks for coaxing flakey speedos back into service, but mostly that involves chasing gremlins, which is not my thing.

The units are as far as I can tell are interchangeable across all the K100s and K75s. The very early units should be avoided because they lack a modification that allows moisture to vent. The early units have two distinguishing marks: (1) they have two low-fuel lights on the face, and (2) they lack two circular openings on the back, which is the crucial moisture ventilation mod.

Flakey instruments can also be caused by worn/abused connectors at the end of the wiring harness (two oblong blocks of connectors that go into the back of the instrument box). Flood those connectors with Do-Oxit or the like but DO NOT use any kind of grease on them. Each one works through a very delicate spring. I actually spliced a new pair of connectors onto my bike's harness. It was a lot of soldering but it's held up fine. In retrospect I might have been better off swapping the entire harness but for whatever reason I wasn't up for doing that much disassembly that winter. Can't remember why.

[Filmcamera]

I am looking to buy a new cluster.  I have sanded and used deoxit and cleaned every part of the cluster connections four times and also changed the speed sensor and still nothing on the speedo, I even installed and tried the Karamba speedo program with no luck .  Thanks to TMG for pointing me in the right direction for one on eBay.

[kennybobby]

i had to solder the little spring clips to solve mine--it doesn't allow for quick disassembly, but i've not needed to ever since.  If i did it is easy enough to desolder them with copper wick.  The vibration of the road over time wore the pins and spring clips to the point of a gap in the contact, which is why sliding electrical contacts are to be avoided if possible.

[Filmcamera]

Today I have started the process of changing the clutch as well as doing a spline lube etc.


One bad thing, I removed the exhaust and the exhaust outlet for number two cylinder (which was always running cooler than the others) has oil on it (see photo) is this seriously bad news? Are we talking pistons rings? When I did a compression test it was lower than the others but still 125 compared to 135 for the rest so in theory not too bad.


Anyway I have also attached some pictures of the splines, I would like to hear some opinions on them, I am not experienced enough to be able to tell a good one from a bad one...

[The Dude]

Your splines,both male and female,look good.My experience is the females ware out earlier suggesting harder males.I hope that translates....
The oily exhaust stub suggests a possible weeping exhaust valve guide/seal.I personally would just let it be for as long as possible.Get a follower to report on any blue haze from the exhaust silencer.That valve will be the first to die.Now,Don't ask me how I know...(half a million km on old triumphs:(
"Excessive"Oil consumption and status amongst the Friends of the Earth are some reasons to rectify early.Otherwise,keep on trucking.

[Filmcamera]

Great thanks, that makes me feel a whole lot better.


Meanwhile I am struggling with a wrung out bolt on the clutch pack - I mean really how the heck did anyone manage to wring out that bolt? PO was clearly a total body building type or something.

[Filmcamera]

Ok I drilled out the messed up bold and managed to get the clutch pack out.  Now I am just confused (again  :dunno ) I read that a new clutch plate is 5.5 mm thick and is usable up to 4.3mm.  The second hand one I brought came with 5.4mm so I was very happy - seems like it is basically brand new.  The problem is when I measure my old one it is 7mm thick.  Did the 16v bikes have a different plate? Were there after market heavy duty clutches available?


I did notice that the inside of the clutch housing is filthy dirty, covered in oil etc.  Maybe a leaking rear main seal?  I also found some oil residue on the clutch plate which would probably explain the slipping.


Not sure what my next step should be, any ideas?

[Elipten]

Not sure about clutch for your model but sounds like rear seal and the o-ring need replacement


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[thecableguy]

Not sure about clutch for your model but sounds like rear seal and the o-ring need replacement

+1  Do it while you are in there...


Jim

[Filmcamera]

I have the o-ring on the way, should be here Tuesday. Now I have to decide whether to leave the bike in bits for two more weeks while the rear main seal comes down - but it sounds like the right the thing to do - damn more dry season time gone...  :yow

[Elipten]

You need a new large nut and the bolts for the clutch pack


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[riots100]

I had a similar issue with my K75, where the number three cylinder exhaust pipe had oil on it.  And the number three cylinder compression was lower than the other two.  It turned out to be a bent connecting rod caused by hydrolock.  I outlined my process of discovery and repair in this thread.


The lower compression resulted is less fuel (and oil) burn.  The unburnt oil escaped out the exhaust valve and fouled the exhaust manifold and pipe.

[Filmcamera]

I remember that thread, it does sound like a similar issue, though without the bad FPR in my case I think.


Thanks for the advice.


I am going to change the o ring and clutch seal as a well as the nut etc.  I also have the main seals for the transmission so I will do that as well.


Not decided what to do about the clutch but with 7mm left on it there is no way it is worn out.  So I am planning to change the clutch cable, give everything a good clean out reassemble it and see how it goes.


Meanwhile I am going to respray some of the bits I have off the bike like the swing arm etc since it seems like a good opportunity to do so.

[Laitch]

If the friction disc has been oil-soaked, I'd replace it.

[Filmcamera]

I think you are right, I do have a used one as which also came with the the pressure plate, the cover and the diaphragm spring and they came as a package so it makes sense to install them.


Trying to clean up the back of the transmission case (my word it is a mess back there, all the black gunk on the floor in the photo came out of there - I am amazed the GPI still works) I see that the boot that goes on the end of the swing arm is crushed and at a guess has not been connected for years.  I am going to try and rescue and reuse it but how vital is it?