K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers

[Filmcamera]

Thanks, I actually followed that procedure firs time I balanced the throttle bodies (the second version in the post, the one that doesn't use a T connector becasue I couldn't find one)


Anyway I thought I had them quite close but apparently not.  I will have another go over the weekend.  At least it does run, it just feels a little sluggish on the pick up and kinda lumpy over 4500 revs or so. 


I am not too worried, I expected some teething troubles, this is, after all, the first time it has been ridden for a couple of years or more.  There are bound to be some cobwebs to be blown out.  Loving the bike though and getting LOTS of admiring looks and thumbs ups, it is nice to be back in the fold of the biker community!


Oh btw the speedo needle shifted a little again when I rode it.  I checked the GoPro footage and it slowly creeps up from 0 to close to 30 mph once I get passed 60 KPH but then stays there.  I am waiting to go and buy a 3.5mm stereo jack so I can try the Karamba program and will report back my findings.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Can you recall if you had the injectors serviced?  If not, I would suspect #2 is bound up a bit.  Not enough to stick fully open or closed, but enough that it isn't closing quickly enough. 

Have you run any Techron through the bike?  I would get a couple bottles and dump a half bottle in each of the next 4 fill ups.  Old fuel glues things together, and it sometimes takes as much as a couple thousand miles to get things running properly.  I know, been down that road with my K100RS and a couple other dormant engines.

[Filmcamera]

The injectors were cleaned by the mechanic that took a look at it just after I got it.  However that is a good point, he messed up pretty much everything he touched so I will have them done again.


Not sure I have seen Techron here but there has to be something similar available so I will try that as well.


Thanks for the tips.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

As far as balancing throttle butterflies, I would hold that as a last desperate action after I have exhausted every other option.  Right now, it looks like you have a funky injector.  Do the Techron and keep an eye on the exhaust header temperatures to make sure you aren't getting into a dangerously lean situation.

[Filmcamera]

This is the stuff right?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092893E/ref=twister_B009SPGRQ4?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yes, I would think almost any large auto parts place will have it.  Around here they almost always have some kind of special deal like buy 1 get 1 50% off. 

[Martin]

I saw the post as I was about to go out so you are lucky to get it in any colour. Besides I am red green colour blind and the Honorable Minister for Finance and Recreation is half Irish, and Palm trees keep the snow away. Any more complaints please send to my complaints department.
 :neener: :neener: :neener:

[Laitch]

Any more complaints please send to my complaints department.

Complaints? Certainly not! I wanted to be in the loop. OZ is a happening place! :yippee:

[bocutter Ed]

and Palm trees keep the snow away.

... not a complaint. Just noting that up here in snow country moss (green stuff) grows on the north side.  :yes

[Laitch]

Just noting that up here in snow country moss (green stuff) grows on the north side.  :yes

I'm lichen that response!

[Filmcamera]

This weekend I took my wife for a quick spin - (I didn't tell her I had no rear brake but more on that later...)


To say she liked it would be going too far but she didn't get off a quivering nervous wreck nor did she scream the entire time she was on board so there is hope!  :2thumbup:


Meanwhile as previously mentioned I seem to have developed a major rear master cylinder leak.  I took it apart and cleaned everything but if anything that made things worse.  Time for a rebuild kit I guess... sigh


Still the bike gets lot of comments wherever I go on it and I am starting to discover there is more of a classic bike scene than I had previously thought  :riding:

[Filmcamera]

I got the new speedo sensor yesterday - sadly the problem persists.  I am going to strip and work more on the speedo itself as well as the infamous pin connectors.


What can be making the needle move a bit but then stay put, not drop back down to zero even with the power off?  I have checked and it isn't the needle touching the plastic cover, even out of the cover altogether it stays where it was.  I can move it back to to zero myself and it seems to move fairly easily but there is a some resistance.

[Filmcamera]

I got the rebuild kit for the rear master cylinder and it is dead simple to install.  The only problem is I still have a brake fluid leak from the master cylinder.  I am not 100% sure but it seems like it is leaking at the top of the cylinder where the plastic hose connection pipe goes into the aluminium master cylinder.  When I took the MC off it was definitely proud of the surface of the cylinder and when I pushed it down a little stream of brake fluid shot out. The leak is much better than it was, good enough to be able to top up the MC and ride but nonetheless I want to cure the problem.
There doesn't seem to be a replacement part available.  Has anyone ever taken off and refitted this part?  I really don't want to buy a new MC... and that includes the chineses alternative youngengineer posted about.

[Filmcamera]

Big day today - finally, after what feels like forever, the bike is 100% legal in CR.


Now I can insure it tomorrow and planning beach, volcano, rain forest trips and cloud forest with my wife!

[Martin]

 Have a look at this its supposed to be brake fluid proof.   http://eclecticproducts.com/_tds/sealall_tds.pdf   then click on products then click on Seal All. Or type in brake fluid proof sealant on the net.
Regards Martin

[Filmcamera]

Perfect, I will give it a try, thanks very much

[Laitch]

Unicorn Spit will be part of my gift-giving from here on out.
:giggles

[Filmcamera]

Today I found out that I am not so much down on power from the engine more that the clutch is slipping...


It has been getting steadily worse and now is very noticeable.  Not only does the clutch not engage till the last 1/2 inch of travel on the clutch lever if I accelerate hard the revs rise but the speed doesn't, it takes a while to catch up.


Looking at Max BMW just a clutch plate is the best part of $220  :musicboohoo: (part number 5 in attached diagram)


Does any one know if there are non OEM alternatives?


Also is it JUST part no 5 I need to replace or should I be looking to replace part no 4 the pressure plate as well or any other bits?


Is there any chance the clutch is fine and something else is making it slip ( i did have a transmission fluid leak from the clutch boot recently)


Lastly has anyone ever put  in a use clutch?


Help, funds are kinda tight right now but I really want to get the work done before the rains start... so any tips that might save a few bucks would be great

I see Motobins has one for £72 for the standard or £85 for the heavy duty and even an Italian one for £44, that is already a good start compared to $218, has anyone tried any of these?

[Laitch]

Today I found out that I am not so much down on power from the engine more that the clutch is slipping...

First, be certain that all your lever and cable measurements and adjustments are correct, and that nothing is impeding clutch arm travel. If there is no engine oil leaking from the transmission weep hole, and all adjustments are correct, you might only need part 5. The compression ring, o-ring, clutch nut and cover bolts are also candidates for replacement but if there is no sign of leakage and the bolts weren't a problem, it's a coin-toss. Because shipping is problematic, you might want to do it all at once.

[Filmcamera]

I have purchased but not yet installed a replacement clutch cable (the one on the bike isn't a BMW one).  Maybe the best thing to do is install that and make sure it is all correctly adjusted and see if the problem persists?


As to the o-rings etc yes it says all over Max BMW replace if you do any clutch work so I assumed I needed those but they are luckily cheap parts not hundreds of dollar like the pressure plate etc.


Thanks, as always, for the help

[Laitch]

I have purchased but not yet installed a replacement clutch cable (the one on the bike isn't a BMW one).  Maybe the best thing to do is install that and make sure it is all correctly adjusted and see if the problem persists?

That's definitely the strategy. Measure carefully. Lube the handlebar lever pivot on the cable end, follow the adjustment procedure in sequence.


That might be all there is to it.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I'm pretty sure you don't need to disturb the clutch nut, compression ring and the o-ring to do the clutch as long as you leave the housing in place.

Here's a clutch from a K1100 with only 35k miles on it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-assembly-K1100RS-BMW-95-may-fit-k75-k100-s-rt-lt-K10-/122273593739?hash=item1c7812f98b:g:H10AAOSwux5YViP6&vxp=mtr

[Filmcamera]

only 35k? What would you expect to get out of a clutch normally? 70K? If it is half life and it is all the parts yes it is a good deal and I will probably jump on it...


Good find, thanks

[Laitch]

only 35k? What would you expect to get out of a clutch normally? 70K? If it is half life and it is all the parts yes it is a good deal and I will probably jump on it...

I think you're jumping the gun but on a well-adjusted and intelligently ridden bike with no transmission fluid or oil leaks into the clutch area, a 70K or more is not uncommon.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

My K75RT has 80k miles and the clutch still isn't half way to the service limit.  On my K100RS with 116k miles the clutch is just past half way.  I think they were just a hair over and under 5mm and the service limit is 4.5mm.  A new clutch is 5.5mm.

Bottom line, at 35k the friction disc should be almost new.  I would figure that you should get at least 5-6 years at 10k per year, probably a lot more.  A lot depends on how you ride and how you keep things adjusted.