Author Topic: K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers (Read 314700 times)

Laitch · « **Reply #175 on:** December 28, 2016, 08:02:35 AM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on December 28, 2016, 07:51:11 AM

Yes I do

Great! It should show the types and sizes of the feeler gauges and how to use them.
So does this video that is accessible in the Technical Library.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #176 on:** December 28, 2016, 09:08:52 AM »

Very useful - he says clearly that checking them is a waste of time - so I won't bother. Actually I probably will just for the hell of it. I guess it is another case of the 2v and the 4v being so different. BTW I did check the manual, sorry I hadn't done so earlier, it says flat metric feelers. I guess that is enough info - I just wanted to be sure width wasn't an issue for the 4v.

Lastly a quick brake update for MaraudeRS.

I am an idiot...

The hose on the rear master cylinder that I was replacing was attached via a banjo bolt so I was looking for another banjo to banjo in the kit. On the way back from the gym today I had an epiphany - maybe the male screw in the hose I have left from Spiegler IS a built in Banjo. So I got home and checked and indeed that is the case. So the kit is complete. Doh!

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #177 on:** December 28, 2016, 09:25:22 AM »

I used a set of inch feeler gauges. I have metric gauges too, but they didn't have the resolution the others did. With the inch gauges i could fell a gap that was in the middle of the spec. My metric gauges only let me know top or bottom of the spec.

MaraudeRS · « **Reply #178 on:** December 28, 2016, 02:30:48 PM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on December 28, 2016, 09:08:52 AM

Lastly a quick brake update for MaraudeRS.

I am an idiot...

The hose on the rear master cylinder that I was replacing was attached via a banjo bolt so I was looking for another banjo to banjo in the kit. On the way back from the gym today I had an epiphany - maybe the male screw in the hose I have left from Spiegler IS a built in Banjo. So I got home and checked and indeed that is the case. So the kit is complete. Doh!

Thank you for the info! Santa didn't bring me a set of hoses so I'll have to get them. I'm planning on replacing the rusted handlebars with either a set of clubman bars or clip-ones so I don't want to buy any yet because they'll end up being too long.

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Filmcamera · « **Reply #179 on:** December 29, 2016, 01:33:41 PM »

Yesterday I flushed the radiator and added a 60/40 mis of distilled water and coolant, I also balanced the TB's and bled and fixed the rear brake.

Today I put on all the tupperware for real for the first time.

I still have things to do (like find some vinyl paint so I can paint the backrest on the top box for example) and fix the front brakes but do feel I am getting very close now.

Here are a few pictures

MaraudeRS · « **Reply #180 on:** December 29, 2016, 03:26:52 PM »

Looks good!

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Filmcamera · « **Reply #181 on:** January 04, 2017, 10:50:02 AM »

Looks like fixing the clutch boot leak has just shifted the leak to another place out the drain hole.

According to this post http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2883.msg16783.html#msg16783 it is either the input shaft seal or the clutch pushrod seal and that I have to pull the tranny either way.

So I am assume I might as well go ahead and replace both while I am in there - as well as doing a spline lube.

My question is, is there anything else I should do while I have the tranny dropped? Also how urgent is this? If I keep it topped up with gear oil can I ride for three or four months till the rainy season starts or should I take of this right now? (I know, I know, I SHOULD do it now but I want to ride it a little before it rains again for six months...)

Ouch - I have been reading up in my Clymer's on how to do this and it looks very tricky.

This thread http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4542.0.html

Scares me, am I crazy to even think of doing this myself?

The Dude · « **Reply #182 on:** January 04, 2017, 04:19:49 PM »

Ride it until it becomes a real problem(rear tyre).Check the oil level regularly and enjoy your dry season.

Dennis de Vries · « **Reply #183 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:10:56 PM »

Ride it, keep an eye on it, it might even fix itself through use....
Bike turned out great! :2thumbup:

Laitch · « **Reply #184 on:** January 04, 2017, 09:22:17 PM »

If that is transmission fluid leaking from the weep hole, you might have overfilled the case. I use my fluid level gauge to check the depth of the fluid as I fill my bike's case. If you just poured in a set volume and it exceeded the correct level, that might cause a seal to leak. Putting in the correct level and riding it may reduce the volume of the leak or the leak may stop altogether.

I'm surprised you hadn't done the input splines yet. Replacing seals and lubing the input spline shaft is just like everything else. Get your procedure in order first, then follow it step-by-step.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #185 on:** January 05, 2017, 11:03:09 AM »

I'm with Laitch on this. Too much oil in the transmission can possibly let the oil leak where the clutch pushrod exits. However, IMO you probably have a hardened o-ring at the clutch hub. That will result in engine oil leaking.

A good time to change that o-ring is when you are in there to do the splines. If that's the problem, which I think it is, unless you are leaving puddles when you park, you should be ok enjoying your brick until the rainy season.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #186 on:** January 05, 2017, 11:14:28 AM »

OK great thanks.

I will order the parts and maybe when they arrive I will feel the urge to just get it done.

I freely admit that I have been putting off do a spline lube. I had zero wrenching experience before I got this bike and just the fact that it is a six part video watching Chris Harris to a spline lube has me more than a little intimidated. Still I have no doubt I can do it, I have managed everything else so far.

First thing I have do it is manufacture some kind of front wheel vice so I can jack up the bike and get it onto the Chris Harris box I made. So far the bike has been on the center stand for the entire project but I know I have to take that off to do the spline lube. I am sure with some 4x2 and some mdf I can knock something together that will hold the front wheel well enough to be able to jack the back of the bike up.

Laitch · « **Reply #187 on:** January 05, 2017, 11:36:55 AM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on January 05, 2017, 11:14:28 AM

I am sure with some 4x2 and some mdf I can knock something together that will hold the front wheel well enough to be able to jack the back of the bike up.

Look through the Projects section. There is plenty of inventive maintenance rigging in there.

Martin · « **Reply #188 on:** January 05, 2017, 12:07:43 PM »

I got carried away with mine made mine out of 3" box section with multiple bracing. The definitive over engineering and overkill. :hehehe
Regards Martin.

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #189 on:** January 05, 2017, 02:14:43 PM »

I don't bother with the front wheel when doing stuff like pulling the transmission for spline lubes.

My setup consists of a stack of 2 x 8 pieces about 10" long under the oil pan. I notch the top piece to accommodate the drain plug. I have made a saw horse that goes under the rear frame loop to support the bike when the centerstand is removed. I made the horse just high enough that the front wheel is just off the ground.

Another stack of wood helps to support the transmission when you pull it back. I use a floor jack with wheels and a pair of 8mm x 4" bolts with the heads cut off the slide the transmission in and out of the clutch pack.

A handful of 12" long cable ties holds things like brake calipers to the frame after they are removed.

As far as the leak, I found that after 24 years/116,000 miles my rear main seal was still ok, and that the oil was coming from the o-ring that had hardened to where it was so brittle it crumbled when I pulled it out.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #190 on:** January 11, 2017, 12:38:34 PM »

Today I installed the new ABS modulator, bled the brakes and took her out for a ride!!!

:riding:

All in all it felt good, though they were a couple of niggles. The speedo and odometer don't work, has anyone ever had that before?

Before I get harangued that was a joke... I know all about the numerous threads on the subject and will dive into them and see how it goes.

The brakes are kinda mushy - I will rebleed and see if that helps. The ABS does appear to work, at least I get the warning lights when I start up but it goes out once I get moving so looks good.

One of the side cases is loose and rattles a lot, I think I have seen threads on that as well.

Basically I am very very happy. It was great to get it out on the road after so many months, even if only for a five mile shake down ride. My plan now is to go all over it and check everything is still tight then take it to the government test center on Saturday to get it certified road worthy.

A huge thanks to all of you for your help and guidance, I could not have done it without you! :clap:

Laitch · « **Reply #191 on:** January 11, 2017, 12:44:01 PM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on January 11, 2017, 12:38:34 PM

The speedo and odometer don't work, has anyone ever had that before?

Very funny! I'm glad you still have your sense of humor. :clap:

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #192 on:** January 11, 2017, 01:20:00 PM »

Re: speedo/tach. Unless you are just pulling our legs, I only have one word to say.

DEOXIT...

Otherwise, congratulations on getting another brick on the road. I am very relieved to hear the ABS is working.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #193 on:** January 11, 2017, 01:25:36 PM »

Yep, I did deoxit it once but will take it apart and try again... for now though long live GPS speedos on phones

Martin · « **Reply #194 on:** January 11, 2017, 01:26:40 PM »

:2thumbup: Now go ride it.

The Dude · « **Reply #195 on:** January 11, 2017, 02:39:01 PM »

Congratulations! :2thumbup:

Laitch · « **Reply #196 on:** January 11, 2017, 05:38:01 PM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on January 11, 2017, 01:25:36 PM

Yep, I did deoxit it once but will take it apart and try again...

The odometer problem has gear replacement solution as a likely solution. Check the speedo sensor connection near the side panel for corrosion and good fit. The sensor itself can be removed and inspected, too.

First though, ride it to hell and back, which would be Honduras, I guess.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #197 on:** January 14, 2017, 09:23:10 AM »

I cleaned and sanded the pins on the speedo unit then used lots of deoxit. I also cleaned and deoxed the speedo sensor connection and lastly I removed and cleaned and reinstalled the sensor on the final drive.

Still nothing.

The odd thing is that on the short shake down drive I did the speedo needle moved from 0 to around 22 mph and has stayed there - it hasn't moved again - either up or down.

Is there any test to see if there are pulses coming from the speedo sensor in a attempt to narrow down where the error is?

The problem is I discovered that as part of the RTV (road worthiness test) they put the bike on a rolling road and test the speedo, if it doesn't work you don't pass so I have to get this resolved before I can make the bike legal.

Other than that it is riding great, the brakes have bedded in now I have ridden it a bit more, it is smooth and comfortable and the gear changes are pretty good, as long as you blip the throttle on a down shift anyway. I did a 20 mile or so ride yesterday, some in the city, some in traffic and a little bit of open road. I am gonna love this bike, that much I can tell for sure!

Laitch · « **Reply #198 on:** January 14, 2017, 09:30:56 AM »

One thing that might be happening is friction on the needle against the faceplate. Then there's this.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #199 on:** January 14, 2017, 10:00:44 AM »

Soldering iron test did show anything so I still don't know if it is the sensor or the speedo.

I am going to see if I can take the instrument cluster apart further to get to the actual clock and see if it is rubbing anywhere (it doesn't appear to be on a visual inspection but it is hard to be sure)

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Author Topic: K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers (Read 314700 times)