K100RS parked for four months outside in all weathers

[Laitch]

Hat's off to you Laith - that certainly looks like it - what a strange place to have it listed.

My hat's off to you for working so ardently on Lazarus!

[Filmcamera]

I am planning to re install the ABS that the PO had removed.

In the process of doing that I find the modulator mount that came with my bike is super weak for the weight of the modulators.

I think I have the earliest version of ABS meaning only the first two battery plate mounts are used to secure the ABS modulator mounting plate.

Looking at MaxBMW I see a plate with four mounting holes. not two like mine, DOes anyone know if that four hole plate will fit my bike?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The rear of the modulator mount is attached with four 6mm screws(two on each side) to the footpeg plates.

[Filmcamera]

That must be the other mount and sounds like a much better idea.  The mount I have ONLY attaches to the rear two battery mounting plates and given the weight of the two modulators it just doesn't strike me as a good long term solution.

I will see if I can get a used mount with four mounting plates.

Thanks for the help

[Filmcamera]

Things are moving forward, the tank and a couple of other bits went off to be painted and the wheels to be powder coated yesterday.

On top of that I also managed to use my new tap and die set to make the thread for the K100RS fairing mount

I hope to have everything pretty much finished and on the road in three weeks, just as the dry season kicks in.

[Filmcamera]

Can someone help me work out where this hose is supposed to go?  Coming out of the engine block at the front is part 11 11 1 461 882   which is a vent pipe. It has two tubes attached to it.  The thicker one attaches to the top of the air box - the thinner one, which looks a little like a vacuum hose to me, has been cut and isn't attached to anything. I have been looking but can't see where I should attach it.  Anyone know?

[Filmcamera]

No guesses?

 I was thinking maybe it was a California model and this pipe went up to the tank vent or something?

[Martin]

 :dunno Though would not connect to the tank.

[F14CRAZY]

Maybe the bike had an aftermarket cruise control and this connected to it?

[Filmcamera]

Cruise control in Costa Rica? I doubt it - it comes as standard on my car and I have yet been able to use it for more than 2 miles at a a time!!

I did dry fit the fairing yesterday and it is looking pretty good...

[Inge K.]

I was thinking maybe it was a California model and this pipe went up to the tank vent or something?

You're correct, it have been a check valve in between those two hose ends.
Usually this vent system is blinded and a  small plastic funnel is mounted between the
frame tubes under the spigots for tank vent and rain water drain.

[Filmcamera]

OK so I can safely remove the pipe and plug the vent and forget about it

[Inge K.]

Yes, you can blind the small hose at the engine end....the hose connected to the tank, you can leave it
as is, or remove it from the spigot under the tank.....but it must be open as it is the vent for the tank.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

That fairing looks really good!  Hope you have everything tied down for the big blow coming your way. 

[Filmcamera]

Today I finally got round to flushing the cooling system.


I think I can safely assume it isn't a good thing when the radiator hoses make a crunchy sound when you squeeze them??


It also goes without saying there was just tap water in there... sigh


So I have flushed it though five or six times - by lucky accident the hose I was using fits quite snugly into the end of the fill pipe allowing me to build up a little pressure.  Tons of what looks like rust etc came out - I am wondering whether I should remove the pump and dismantle it or to just ride and see how it goes...

I did notice it seemed quite hard to fill the system if just pouring water in to the top once the drain nut was back in place - it kept making 'I am full' noises at me after only half a liter or so.  I had to keep on squeezing the pipes to get more to go in.

[Laitch]

I am wondering whether I should remove the pump and dismantle it or to just ride and see how it goes...

I did notice it seemed quite hard to fill the system if just pouring water in to the top once the drain nut was back in place - it kept making 'I am full' noises at me after only half a liter or so.  I had to keep on squeezing the pipes to get more to go in.

Use of a coolant flush product—if you haven't used one yet—might help rinse out whatever scum is hanging on in the coolant passages. If it were my bike I'd do a couple more flushes with a product like that. You run the engine using them. Then I'd ride it to see if the pump leaks, if it's at the riding stage. Otherwise, ¿Quién sabe? You can always rebuild the pump, which is what you'll need to do anyway, if you compromise any seals. That means new seals and a new impeller, among other things.


The radiator needs to be filled slowly; I use a funnel. The squeezing technique is normal procedure and expected.

[Filmcamera]

OK great, I am pretty keen to get to the riding stage. It is nearly there - the tank and other bits are in paint and the wheels in powder coat. I hope to get them back next week so maybe in two weeks I will be on the road...

[The Mighty Gryphon]

It sounds like there is a lot of crap in your cooling system.  It would be a good idea to run a cooling system flush with distilled water.  Prestone makes a good one.  You may have to do it twice to get all the crap out.

Then, it might be a good idea to remove the radiator to run a lot of water through it.  Clean out all the bugs and dirt in the fins.  Where you are riding you are going to need all the cooling efficiency you can get.  I wouldn't take any shortcuts on this sytem.

I would suggest that the water pump can be serviced after the bike is back running.  No need to tear into it before you know if it has any problems.

[Filmcamera]

Today I started the process of doing a spline lube.  I can't go all the way to the clutch right now because I have no front wheel so can't easily get the bike off the center stand to remove the transmission.


Instead i though I would just remove the rear drive and have a look at the splines there - expecting to find them dry as a bone and worn as heck.


In fact I had a fairly pleasant surprise


The splines did have lube on them - though i suspect it was just regular grease and when cleaned up they looked in pretty good shape.


The only thing I am not sure about is in the top shot you can see a band around the middle of the shaft, like a cut, doesn't look too bad but I am not sure if I should be worried about it.


The final drive oil was pretty bad and very smelly so i will be changing that for sure.

[Martin]

Wouldn't worry splines look great just lube them up with one of the recommended high moly greases.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

Just in case. :giggles

[Filmcamera]

Thanks :2thumbup:

[Filmcamera]

I was planning to check and probably change the transmission oil today.  Then I saw that the filler screw plug is wrung out (like it seems almost every other bolt head on the bike!)


I am getting pretty experienced at removing these bolts but this one has me worried.


The screw plug is pretty shallow and goes directly into the transmission so I don't think drilling it an using an extractor is a very good idea.


I was thinking maybe I would have to buy a sacrificial 8mm allen and weld it into the hole?


Anyone got any other ideas?

[Laitch]

Anyone got any other ideas?

Remove the drain plug to relieve pressure from heat. Using a heat gun, heat the filler plug and area around it. Pound a slightly oversized socketed torx or hex bit into the plug. Heat the area around the plug again. Apply penetrant. It'll probably smoke. That will reduce the insect population and impart a cloyingly sweet aroma to your coveralls. Return in 15 minutes and give a hard reef on the socket with an extension handle on the wrench or breaker bar. Instead of the socket bit technique, you can pound a notch into the hex opening with a cold chisel and hammer it out counterclockwise using the chisel. Or you can carefully weld something to it, as you suggested.


Enough heat, penetrant and patience, it is going to unscrew.

[kennybobby]

Put a drop of oil in there to loosen the crud, then use a scribe or pick to break it up and vacuum it oot to see how deep the hex flats really are--it may be deep enough that an allen wrench will extend past the damaged flats and come right out...