Did you end up downloading both the factory manual and the Haynes manual, which are online? Cliymers makes a really good one too that you can pick up online as well. I would highly highly, and I will say it one more time, HIGHLY recommend you use at least two of the thee publications. That factory manual will tell you how to do it the right way and the other ones will give you tips on how a smaller garage or private mechanic may be able to do much of the work. Read through those first and decide exactly which parts, tools and equipment you will need to do the job, and to do that job right. Even in the 80s when BMW first started making the K bike, they used very tight tolerances, and by tight, I mean... The fasteners and the threaded bodies for which those fasteners go into are either steel and/or aluminum in almost all cases. Obviously, you do not have to do this, but you would be wise to pick up a torque screwdriver, a 1/4 inch torque wrench, a three eights inch torque wrench and a half inch torque wrench to do the job. I use the torque screwdriver for things that use the smallest tolerances but are very important, like the hall-effect timing wheel and the sensor.
The particular focus of this thread focuses on the area in front of the transmission, and not the back. In particular, that weep hole should be on the intermediate flange if I am reading your most recent post correctly. My money is on what you have suspected. No guarantees of course. As long as you are making the effort to get in and do the spline work, you should absolutely disassemble your clutch pack and replace that seal. I am the kind of guy that will use new hardware as it is recommended by BMW, but that is just me and, admittedly, not 100% necessary. I would absolutely replace those little star washers that keep the pack itself together though. Some people use Loctite; to each their own. There is more than enough reference material on the web to do the job and get it done, but don't kid yourself into thinking you will find everything in the order needs to be documented. Get those manuals and find the torque specifications and where to apply lube and what types of sealants to use where. Things like acetone on your non-painted sealing surfaces with Hondabond work magnificently.
All of this, being my opinion of course. Let me know if you don't have those manuals, and I will either personal message those to you or find them and post them up on this thread.
It seems that the last few decades has seen a few conversions change. Of recent, the latest newton meter to foot pounds seems to be 0.738 FYI.
Another amazing source is realoem.com. Enter the last seven of your VIN and you'll either see the parts breakdown for your bike, or the updated parts for your bike; all broken down by sub-system. All of it includes individual part numbers and approximate costs as well. I printed every single page for my rebuild because it also told me, in most cases, the order the parts are assembled and which ones were supposed to be there and which ones were not.
