Bike lift

[Filmcamera]

I am thinking of getting a bike lift to make working on my K100RS easier. I would love a proper lift table but you can't buy them here in CR and the price of shipping would be prohibitive so I saw this on Harbor Freight which might work as a compromise.

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html#pr-header-back-to-top-link

Does any one have one? Will it even work with the K100? Any thoughts? Maybe a different idea?  I want to make sure I get something that will work before sending it all the way down here.

Thanks as always for any advice

[White Dog]

I would also be interested in hearing if anyone has used this device.

I have the Harbor Freight under frame lift which I have used on my Goldwing numerous times (less than $100).  When I attempted to use it to lift my K75, I quickly realized I needed another pair of hands to help balance the cycle while I was going to position and raise the jack.  I quickly abandoned trying to do both by myself.  The K75 is very top heavy and I would hate to see it fall over.

On another note, I had to balance my Honda CB1100 in mid-air when I removed the forks to install gaiters.  I am lucky enough to have iron support post in my basement/garage and was able to tie off the cycle to each post before using my HF jack to raise the front end.  I may have to do the same with the BMW to raise it up so I don't have to lay on the floor to do maintenance, etc.

[Martin]

If you do your own maintenance a lift table is one of the best investments. You'll wonder how you ever did with out it.
Regards Martin.

[Brad-Man]

Haven't any experience with that lift but have used the regular lift w/angle iron brackets bolted to engine and now have their platform lif5 as well.

I park one of my RD350's on it when I am not using it for one of my other bikes.

[Motorhobo]

HF recently had a sale on the platform bike lift for $289. That's only $100 more than you're considering paying for the thing in the lift, and it's worth every penny. But being in Costa Rica, I guess that's not an option.

Before I shelled out for the platform lift, I used this:

http://t.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html

To stabilize the bike, I got a 4X8 sheet of 1/2 plywood and screwed down some 2X4s on the edges to strengthen it. Then I screwed in some eyelets to the 2X4s  to hook ratchet tiedowns to. Then I put a wheel chock in the front. That gave me a 4-point tiedown rig, so when I used the lift to raise the bike, I could keep it stable at any height by adjusting the tiedowns. Then I made an under-engine support block. Cheap and safe, and allowed me to do any type of work, but I spent a lot of time on my back and scrunched over. I still use that setup, btw, to put on and take of the sidecar rig. 

At $189 for the high position lift, I'd be thinking how I' was going to stabilize the lifted bike and how it allows access to the oil pan and transmission removal. The good thing about working with the jack lift and a cheap floor jack is that you can move the things around on the floor to position the jack where you need it to support different elements of the bike. I don't see that kind of versatility happening with the high position lift...but I've never worked with one so I don't know for sure. To me it looks like a big contraption with limited usefulness. All I know is that I wouldn't feel comfortable lifting a frameless K bike without some way to stabilize it with tiedowns.




I used

[Martin]

I made my own out of an old hydraulic hospital bed, I first tried to use the beds hydraulics. I didn't trust them so modified it to take a hydraulic 2.5 ton floor jack. There are plans out there to make your own. No cheap lift tables in OZ cheapest goes about $400.00 plus another $150.00 + for freight. When I built mine they were a lot dearer.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

At the moment the lift table is $430 and shipping would be at least $300 and tax $200 - I can't justify that right now (ever!).  A friend is sending some stuff down here in a container so I can throw the jack on there for free - hence why I am looking into buying one now.

Good point about the high lift not being able to be wheeled around with the bike on it, I was really just drawn to the extra height for working on it.  I can always make myself one of those Chris Harris blocks to go under the engine for leaving it off the ground longer term.

I think will go for the wheeleable one and just deal with working a foot lower than with the high lift one.

Thanks for all the advice

[rbm]

I'm using a lift similar in concept to this one but of a totally different manufacture.



I fashioned a plate that bolts onto the oil pan and provides a support platform that gets clamped to the lift arms.  There is a plate welded to the arms that accepts it.  The piece of wood you see under the centre stand stabilises the rear end and provides a cushion for the bike to rest on without marring the paint.The bike is very stable on the platform.  the idea of using "L" shaped angle iron outriggers will also work with this HF lift you are considering.

[Elipten]

I have seen lift tables made of wood and using a electric winch people built on the Internet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[White Dog]

If you do your own maintenance a lift table is one of the best investments. You'll wonder how you ever did with out it.
Regards Martin.

Martin, assuming you use a lift table to work on your BMWs, how do you balance the bike before attempting to raise it?  My K75 is very top heavy (which has its advantages on the open road) but it is a bear to manipulate in the garage.  The Harbor Freight work table lift typically sells here for $429.99 and occasionally is put on sale for less than $300 and the pic of the lift shows a front wheel clamp.  Is that all that is needed to secure the bike to the table?

[White Dog]

HF recently had a sale on the platform bike lift for $289. That's only $100 more than you're considering paying for the thing in the lift, and it's worth every penny. But being in Costa Rica, I guess that's not an option.

Before I shelled out for the platform lift, I used this:

http://t.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html

To stabilize the bike, I got a 4X8 sheet of 1/2 plywood and screwed down some 2X4s on the edges to strengthen it. Then I screwed in some eyelets to the 2X4s  to hook ratchet tiedowns to. Then I put a wheel chock in the front. That gave me a 4-point tiedown rig, so when I used the lift to raise the bike, I could keep it stable at any height by adjusting the tiedowns. Then I made an under-engine support block. Cheap and safe, and allowed me to do any type of work, but I spent a lot of time on my back and scrunched over. I still use that setup, btw, to put on and take of the sidecar rig. 

At $189 for the high position lift, I'd be thinking how I' was going to stabilize the lifted bike and how it allows access to the oil pan and transmission removal. The good thing about working with the jack lift and a cheap floor jack is that you can move the things around on the floor to position the jack where you need it to support different elements of the bike. I don't see that kind of versatility happening with the high position lift...but I've never worked with one so I don't know for sure. To me it looks like a big contraption with limited usefulness. All I know is that I wouldn't feel comfortable lifting a frameless K bike without some way to stabilize it with tiedowns.




I used

With the use of the sheet of plywood, are you using it with the lift table or the motorcycle jack?  Can you provide pics of your lift platform?  How large is the platform?

[Laitch]

Martin, assuming you use a lift table to work on your BMWs, how do you balance the bike before attempting to raise it?  My K75 is very top heavy (which has its advantages on the open road) but it is a bear to manipulate in the garage.  The Harbor Freight work table lift typically sells here for $429.99 and occasionally is put on sale for less than $300 and the pic of the lift shows a front wheel clamp.  Is that all that is needed to secure the bike to the table?

I've got a lift.

It's strenuous to push the bike onto the lift. I laid industrial, grit-covered, adhesive-backed paper on the surface of the lift for traction. That helps keep the bike from sliding and allows strength to focus on forward motion. It's easier to install it on the lift with two people, of course, but usually there's nobody around when I'm inspired to do some work on the bike. Once the bike's on the lift, I'll often put it on the center stand and secure the center stand with a strap.  Good practice is to attach ratchet straps on each side tightened just enough to prevent the bike from tipping accidentally.

The Harbor Freight wheel clamp certainly cannot be trusted to hold the bike in place if the bike isn't on the center stand, too. One nudge from the side and it will start falling. Even a wheel clamp like the one on my lift shouldn't be the only source of stability. Depends on if you're feeling lucky; a bike on a lift is not necessarily a sign of good luck.

In the attached photo, the bike is being readied to be raised by a bottle jack to put the service box beneath it. Once the box is in place, I'll attach straps at points indicated by the arrows if I'm working on the front and need to release the clamp. Not visible at the lower arrow is a hole in the lift platform for receiving the strap hook.

[Laitch]

. . . just deal with working a foot lower than with the high lift one.

I'll add two things. Wearing a pair of knee pads that attach with velcro straps makes my life a lot easier when I'm working low down on a truck or car. Secondly, one of these 5-caster adjustable height stools with a tool tray eases the work, too

[rbm]

You could buy a lift like Motohobo (above) and use angle iron to stabilise the bike.  You'll also need tiedown straps to prevent the bike from tipping off the stand.

Read this post:  http://www.k100-forum.com/t2088-motorcycle-jack-versus-motorcycle-lift#18167

It is also possible to build a platform like Motohobo to provide a work surface.  Here's a youtube video of one design:

[Martin]

Whitedog I made mine wide enough so I can get both feet down. I fitted it with a wheel clamp and wheel stop and 4 eyes for tie down straps. You really need a second person to guide you on as the front clamp does not give you much room for error. Once on the table I put the side stand down on top of a 1/2" piece of wood to make it nearly vertical, I then ratchet strap the rear on the side stand side loosely ( but tight enough to stop it tipping the other way) then do the other side and alternate back and forth till its' tight and vertical. The straps are attached to the frame under the rear of the side covers which have to be removed.I the tighten up the front wheel clamp and strap the front wheel to the front wheel stop. As yet no need for the front eye bolts. Total cost  $60.00 for a bit of steel and paint. Mate gave me the bed and most of the steel.
Regards Martin.

[Motorhobo]

With the use of the sheet of plywood, are you using it with the lift table or the motorcycle jack?  Can you provide pics of your lift platform?  How large is the platform?

I'm not lifting the plywood -- it just lays on the floor. The jack lift sits on it. The plywood only serves to provide a mounting base for the eyelets that take the tiedowns. You can't ratchet the tiedowns too tight because the plywood just bends -- but it's good 'nuff to keep the bike stable and you can get the bike maybe a foot off the ground.

It's a poor man's solution who only has one bike to maintain and would rather crawl around some and bend over than spend lots of money on a platform lift that won't get much use. It worked for me fine -- until I got more than one bike.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

No lift in my garage.  I have a piece of thick plush carpet about 5' x 8' in front of my work bench that I park the bike on.  I work on my bikes all winter and have no problem with the occasional times I might have to lay on the carpet to get at something.  The rest of the time I sit on an upturned 5 gallon paint bucket with an old cushion on it.

The carpet was free as was the bucket and old cushion.  With three bikes in the garage I park one of them on the carpet.  There is no wasted space being taken up by an unused lift. 

When I do need to lift or support the bike I have a saw horse, 4 ton floor jack and a bunch of 2x10 chunks that I can stack under the engine.  Above my work space is a couple screw eyes that I can tie pieces of rope to support and stabilize the bike when I drop the engine. 

So far, I have been able to do clutch spline lubes, tire changes and an engine removal and reinstallation with no problems.

[gone_ape]

My .02: 
I have the Harbor Freight 1000lb Lift Table.  You can find them on sale about twice a year hear in the US and, by using the occasionally sent 20% off coupon, it helps knock the price down to ~$300.  It's more stable and  allows tools, oil pans, stands etc. to be right there.  If I were using it everyday, I'd consider a pneumatic style air lift, as it takes about 45-50 stomps on the pedal to raise the hydraulic pump all the way. 

ABSOLUTELY toss the POS "table lock rod" they include in the crate -it bends the first time you use it when you rest the table down on one of the three height positions (never leave the weight of the bike on just the pump, as it is, after all, a Chinese pump) and go to a 'Metal Mart' type of store and get  steel round stock of 1" diameter and have them cut it to about 22 1/2". That length works pretty good as you're not banging your ankles on it when shifting from side to side.
 
The wheel vise is garbage.  That said, I use the vise but use some old cut down shelf boards to bolster the vise, AND I ALWAYS USE TIE DOWNS to secure it from popping out.  Works great.  If I used it a lot, I would consider buying a better vise.

Another tip, test and measure how far your bike moves "forward' when lowering down from the center stand BEFORE you put it on the lift for the first time...don't ask me how I know - it was ugly......I should've tied the front wheel to the centerstand and scooted the bike rearward first before attempting to lower off the centerstand...expensive lesson learned.

Gyph mentioned space taken up when not being used...I simply turn it on its side up against the garage wall and its out of the way; probably 7-9 inches thick and around 7 ft long so no big deal.... I no longer enjoy working without it for big stuff... it brings the machine up to a level easy to work on rather than being bent over or on your knees or worse, your back....but I'm pathetic and weak and kinda dig the wrenching experience so to each their own!!

[White Dog]

Hi gone_ape.

Thanks for the comments on the HF table lift.  I had pretty much written it off before I read your post.

Noticed your shock is hanging loose.  I was looking at my rear caliper yesterday in preparation to installing new brake pads and one of the pins which hold the pads in place is right behind the shock on my cycle.  So, is there any tension on the shock if I try to unbolt it at the bottom or would I be better off unbolting the caliper and move it towards the rear enough to clear the shock when removing the pins?

[Martin]

I use a long pin punch a light tap with a hammer to push it out. Then I pull it out with a small pair of vice grips with a rag wrapped around the end to stop it damaging the pins. If it is easier for you. put it on the centre stand and chock the back wheel to stop it dropping and remove the shock.
Regards Martin.

[gone_ape]

I agree with Martin....punch and pull, tho probably easiest access with the rear wheel off...If you place a block of wood or such underneath the swingarm for support, the shock can be loosened and swung up out of the way.  Don't let the swingarm drop, as the forward boot may tear.....

[White Dog]

Hmm. I read opposite views.  If I increase the length of the shock (by using a block of wood under the center stand), that relaxes the spring.  OTOH if I raise the rear wheel (after putting cycle on the center stand), I would be decreasing the length of the shock and causing more tension on the spring.  I didn't read anything in the Clymer manual about having to move the shock in order to get the front pin out of the caliper.

I did a "test run" and found that by unloosening and moving the caliper rearward enables the front pin to clear the shock,thus the pin can be pulled out.  Still interested in an answer to the first paragraph, however.

[Laitch]

Hmm. I read opposite views.  If I increase the length of the shock (by using a block of wood under the center stand), that relaxes the spring.  OTOH if I raise the rear wheel (after putting cycle on the center stand), I would be decreasing the length of the shock and causing more tension on the spring.  I didn't read anything in the Clymer manual about having to move the shock in order to get the front pin out of the caliper.

Still interested in an answer to the first paragraph, however.

I didn't read a question in the first paragraph.

[gone_ape]

Clarification in order...Once you loosen and then remove the lower shock nut, and then slide the shock off said lower mount, the swingarm will then be free to pivot up, if you lift it, or down, being a property of gravity.

 The block I mentioned for the support of the swingarm was to prevent the now-free to pivot arm from lowering enough to possibly tear the forward rubber boot that connected to the rear of the transmission.  And since you found a way to complete your project, all of what I said was moot and not necessary, never mind.

[Laitch]

Clarification in order...

Thanks. That helped me find which first paragraph was being cited.