Heated Grip Handlebar Tube Removal?

[iiXioM]

Hey all,

I'm pulling apart my 85k100rt that had heated grips. Tearing down for a complete restoration. Currently the front end is off and trying to get to the frame and remove units off the handlebars as well. I peeled off the left hand grip, and the heated wire assembly. I'm unable to remove the plastic tube/sleeve thing that's over the handlebar where the heating element was wrapped around. Are there any tips or tricks on how I'm supposed to pull this? Are they replaceable if I break it? Haven't been able to find it on the fiche.

Thanks!

[iiXioM]

Bump? Anyone have any tips on this?

This is what I have (hadn't pulled the grips off in this picture yet).



http://i.imgur.com/aLgAxVc.jpg

Also, anyone have any idea what kind of handlebars these are? Originally the bike was an RT, i know the bars are definitely not an RT.

Thanks!

[Laitch]

Anyone have any tips on this?
Also, anyone have any idea what kind of handlebars these are? Originally the bike was an RT, i know the bars are definitely not an RT.

You may not believe this, iXioM, but someone does have tips on this. This is one of the first hits doing a Google search on a Safari browser using the words K100 remove heated grips. If you do the same search, you'll find some more. In my example, you'll even learn gerbal-handling techniques.

As far as the handlebar goes, don't get sidetracked thinking about it. Measure its outside diameter with a vernier caliper so you know what you're working with or can describe it when you want to sell or trade it. Looks other bike to me.

[iiXioM]

You may not believe this, iXioM, but someone does have tips on this. This is one of the first hits doing a Google search on a Safari browser using the words K100 remove heated grips. If you do the same search, you'll find some more. In my example, you'll even learn gerbal-handling techniques.

As far as the handlebar goes, don't get sidetracked thinking about it. Measure its outside diameter with a vernier caliper so you know what you're working with or can describe it when you want to sell or trade it. Looks other bike to me.

That's what I'm a bit confused about. I have the left grip off, thats no big deal. It's the actual tube under the grip that goes over the handlebar. It's what the heating element wraps around. It seems like some sort of plastic. I'll have to get a picture of it to explain better I think. So you don't think this is a BMW bar?

[Laitch]

Come on now. Quit ruminating and do something. There's plenty of advice in that one thread alone. Go find an air compressor or get a charged tank with a hose and giver her a go.

I don't care if it's a BMW bar. Quit deflecting yourself from the job at hand and get cracking.

[Mad Max]

Decided to remove the horrible stock grips from my 1993 k75 RT and install a set of ProGrip 785 foam grips. Turned out it was more difficult than I expected. My K75 has heated grips, and it was pretty straight-forward cutting off the old grips - I slid a carpet hook knife http://www.irwin.com/tools/utility-knives-blades/linoleum-knife under the old grips. Took all of about a minute per side to slice them off. I was left with this:



...and this on the throttle side  :mbird



 :yow No wonder the throttle side heated grip wasn't working! If anyone has a clue how to rectify this, I'd be interested in a reply. I can still see the cut wires still down the handlebar guts, but have no idea how they're routed, or how to access them...

Anyway, these heated elements seem to be covered with some sort of heavy paper, and, of course, are slightly larger diameter than bare metal on the clutch side, and bare throttle tube on the other. I was planning to use soapy water to slide them on. Well, that's a LOT easier said than done! After a lot of shoving, though, eventually the throttle side went on. The clutch side, though, was a really tough gig with the additional thickness and non-slippery surface of the heated element. I took to using a set of multi-grips to help me with that one. After an hour's struggle, though, they finally went on.





I managed to install the end cap supplied on the throttle side, but the clutch side simply refused to co-operate. The additional thickness made it impossible.

Anyway, job done, and back in the bicycle race for me.

Cheers,
Max in Melbourne, Australia

[brianhinton]

So, @mad max, did you put your grip back on without fixing the heated grip wires? I did a heated grip fix and posted pics on the MOA forum. Let me try and get a link.....

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?84410-Heated-grip-question-95-K75S&highlight=K75+heated+grip



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mad Max]

So, @mad max, did you put your grip back on without fixing the heated grip wires? I did a heated grip fix and posted pics on the MOA forum. Let me try and get a link.....

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?84410-Heated-grip-question-95-K75S&highlight=K75+heated+grip

Thanks Brian!

Yes, I did put the grip back without fixing the wires. I'm a daily rider, and didn't have the luxury of time to figure out the wiring issue. I also figured that given it's on the throttle side, the throttle tube should just slide off once I remove the retaining cover on the bar mount.

It's helpful to know about the wire routing. Unfortunately, I can't view your photos because I'm in Australia and am not really up for joining the BMW club of America! Lots of dough to view a few photos! I know, I know, I'm a cheapskate! Did your wires look like mine? Mine actually look to have been cut - the breaks are very clean as you can see from my photo. I guess I can just bare a short part of the wires to check for connectivity and short circuit, then I'll be in a better position to assess the damage. I'll have to have a further explore, I can see what I can find.

Cheers,
Max in Melbourne, Australia

[Laitch]

I'll have to have a further explore, I can see what I can find.

This video might shed a little heat on the issue, Mad Max. The cutoffs are probably remnants of the heater wires that are routed from the switch connection under the tank through a hole in the center of the clamp area of the bar and outward to the grip—cut for a handlebar swap, probably.
]

[Mad Max]

Thanks, Laitch.

On re-reading this thread, I've just realised that NONE of us actually answered the question originally posed by iiXioM: how do you remove the heating element? The grips themselves are a snap to remove, and we've hijacked his thread with our musings and pronouncements on that subject instead.

On the throttle side, the job's really simple: the heating element is part of the throttle tube, so unscrewing and removing the plate on the brake mount that retains the throttle tube will do the trick. On the clutch side, (disclaimer: I've never done it), it looks like you simply remove the mounting screw shown below. Well, that's what I'd be trying, anyway. If you want to remove the wires themselves, I imagine you'll need to find the place they exit from inside the bars - somewhere down near the bar mounts - and then disconnect them from the harness connectors and withdraw them through the bar ends. I'd also be tying a length of thin-but-strong thread (maybe dental floss) to the connector ends before withdrawing the wires so as to assist with re-installing them later.

Cheers,
Max in Melbourne, Australia

[Motorhobo]

Are we talking about OEM heated grips here?

[Inge K.]

Yes.

[Motorhobo]

Then you'd better have either a very tiny screwdriver or the factory tool for disconnecting the tiny OEM wires from the super tiny OEM connector. Seriously -- only a sadist would design a connector that tiny.

Just sayin. I used the tiniest screwdriver in the set of jewelers screwdrivers I have and even almost wasn't tiny enough.

This might help...

http://ibmwr.org/ktech/retrofit-heated-grips.shtml

[Inge K.]

Then you'd better have either a very tiny screwdriver or the factory tool for disconnecting the tiny OEM wires from the super tiny OEM connector.
I used the tiniest screwdriver in the set of jewelers screwdrivers I have and even almost wasn't tiny enough.

The grove in the plastic housing is 2mm wide, the lock tab on the contact is 1.8mm wide.