92 k75rt will not start/some instrument lights dont work

[tjbone134]

Hello everyone,

Please excuse if this is in the wrong section. My problem seems to spread across multiple sections.

So it seems that I have a problem on my hands and need some help figuring it out. So, I had a rear brake light burn out on my 92 k75rt abs bike. I made a very stupid and amateur mistake. I unplugged the light and the socket broke apart while doing it. Then I drove to the auto parts store without protecting the contacts.

I got the light and some tape. Installed them and tried to start the bike. I couldn't get the start button to work. The abs light flashes like it should. However I do not get the "check bulb" light to illuminate. The bike will run after push starting it (popping the clutch while in gear). The gear indicator will not display anything either. On the trip back, the battery light would strobe. If I hit the rear brake pedal, then all my gauges die (0 rpms and 0 mph and no gear select) until I release the pedal. The front brake switch is faulty (on order already) but I imagine the front brake would do the same thing.

So my question is, what did I fry on my bike? Would it be best for me to bring it into a shop? From my internet searches so far, it seems like alternator, voltage regular, or the brake relay.

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[tjbone134]

Also, most of the rear brake lights( except the outside 2 inside the red lense) will modulate when I turn the key to the on position. Pressing the rear brake pedal will not turn on the rear brake light either.

I know this ended up shorting out on the way to the auto parts store. The battery measured about 12.3 volts. I assume I need to charge it up.   But I don't think that is the issue because all of my lights turn on (headlight, rear turn and rear running brake lights)

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[Laitch]

Welcome, tjbone134. How long have you owned the bike and how many miles does it show on the odometer? How many of those miles have you ridden?

You are describing symptoms that quite a few owners have experienced and that many threads have discussed. It's a problem that is treated methodically and can take up time to track.

First, have you checked the condition of fuses in the fuse panel? Second, have you done this procedure?

[Laitch]

Order the part, check the rear light wiring and replace the damaged bulb socket soon.

[tjbone134]

I have owned the bike for about 2 months. Drove the bike for approximately 1,000 miles of the 72,XXX miles on the odometer. I am assuming the problem sprung up after driving the bike with a light bulb connector shorted out.

I do not know where the fuse panel is at. I tried looking online but i can't find anything that seemed to help me. Maybe I didn't look quite hard enough.

I haven't tried the starter check method. Before I drove to the parts store, the starter worked flawlessly. Would it really just die that fast?

It seems like the starter will not work unless the gear indicator is working.

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[tjbone134]

Also, there is something weird that was done with the rear lighting. Lots of those car splices and weird connectors.

I think this was a previous owners handiwork to get modulated brake lights. Unless the stock bike has modulated lights. If that is the case, then I'm not sure what the extra wiring is for

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[Laitch]

I do not know where the fuse panel is at. I tried looking online but i can't find anything that seemed to help me.

You've got a procedure to try and a task to do. I thinking that if you can't find the fuse panel, you probably should take it to the dealer. There's no shame in that.

[Elipten]

As original does not have brake light modulator.

Post pics of the wiring and modulator

[tjbone134]

Well is it under the fuel tank? If so, it isn't anything I can check right now. I don't have garage space nor is it light outside.

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[tjbone134]

Elipten, I'll get pictures tomorrow. I'm not 100% sure where the modulator is but I have a pretty good idea of where it is.

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[Laitch]

Well is it under the fuel tank? I

You'll find the location in the manual linked in this post. If you can't find it using that manual, take the bike to a dealer.

[tjbone134]

I have the Clymer manual and plan to look it up when I get dropped off tomorrow. My problem is that it is at my house and I'm currently 1.5 hrs away from my house.

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[Laitch]

 :computer-noworky:

[tjbone134]

I only have my smartphone and Internet speeds are slow. This is considered country and I don't get 4g lte

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[tjbone134]

Yes I really wish I had my nice custom computer to look up my problem

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[tjbone134]

Finally.. selected the wrong app to use and my s7 set it as a default. Took me a while to figure out how to clear it

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[tjbone134]

You'll find the location in the manual linked in this post. If you can't find it using that manual, take the bike to a dealer.

Hey,

Thanks for the PDF and we did find the fuses. They all looked fine but I will try removing them 1 by 1, inspect them closer,  and then reinstall them.

When I said fuses before, I was actually thinking that I had blown out a relay. I am pretty sure the relays are on the inside of the "box" that the fuses plug into. I need to remove/move the tank for that and I will follow my Clymer manual to do that.

I will also try the procedure for the starter motor but I wouldn't think the starter would prevent the instrument cluster from working properly. But then again, we engineers did things weird back in the day. I will update the post when I get time.

Thank you guys for getting me started somewhere and for the future help (I'm sure I'll need it). Just irritating that I was stupid. Life lesson right?

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[Laitch]

Yes I really wish I had my nice custom computer to look up my problem

:musicboohoo:

So do I.

[tjbone134]

Violin? Really??? lol

Thanks for the help guys. I did blow a fuse. Looking at them last night with a flash light gave us just enough glint that we thought they were still functional. I pulled them this morning again and it turns out the instrument fuse had blown (fuse closest the fuel tank). I replaced that and I believe everything is working again as it should. Gauges don't shut off when i hit the brakes, i get a full brake light modulation as expected. (Although my check light bulb is still on... I am thinking I have another blown bulb somewhere. Going to investigate this week).

*Side Note* I am just curious as to how I got the power for the instrument cluster after I push started it. I am sure it was coming off of the alternator/stater (spelling?). Just not sure of the path that it all took. Maybe the splice job in the taillight provided the necessary path.

Now fellows, Is there something else that I should look for? Any further damage that I should try and check out? Thanks in advance!!!  Btw, my tapatalk is refusing to load the forum/post so replies might have to wait until I can get to a computer for a while (until I figure out tapatalk's problem).

[Laitch]

(Although my check light bulb is still on... I am thinking I have another blown bulb somewhere. Going to investigate this week).

Some brands of these tail light modulators light the BMU bulb; some don't. That's just the way it goes. See if you can identify the maker and model of the unit without disabling your bike again.

[tjbone134]

I believe the maker of the modulator is KRISS
 

here is the bad wiring


The weird thing is that before, the bmu light would turn off after I hit both brakes (like normal operation of the bmu).

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