Author Topic: The Khan - a fools attempt at a K100 build (Read 47647 times)

DJC · « **Reply #25 on:** August 02, 2016, 05:38:28 PM »

Alright so it turns out that my Motometer unit has been fried.
Disappointing.
Looks like i'll have to mount the reed sensor that comes with the Acewell.

rbm · « **Reply #26 on:** August 02, 2016, 06:13:17 PM »

Too bad. That looks to be a result of wiring up the board improperly. It's repairable for anyone who has some electronics skills. It looks like the BE input got burnt so it would mean replacing the IC and looking at repairing the traces.

DJC · « **Reply #27 on:** August 02, 2016, 06:28:58 PM »

Yeah i think i might have shorted something out when wiring it initially.
Only noticed it after i loomed all the cables nicely and soldered on the terminals - go figure.
Yeah - i MAY be able to repair it, looks like the track has lifted though. I'll take a better look at it and see if i can get replacement parts.

DJC · « **Reply #28 on:** August 14, 2016, 05:46:08 PM »

Hey all,

Quick update on the bike.

I spent a few hours this weekend cleaning up the headers.
Lots of WD40 and a couple of green Scotchbrite scrubbing pads from the supermarket.

I also used a wire brush attachment on the more heavy set rust and grime. Came up a treat.
(yes, one of the pipes is missing.)

Shiny · « **Reply #29 on:** August 14, 2016, 08:55:17 PM »

Hey your images aren't showing up. I'd like to see, because maybe one day I'll care enough to tackle my headers.

DJC · « **Reply #30 on:** August 14, 2016, 09:01:28 PM »

Quote from: Shiny on August 14, 2016, 08:55:17 PM

Hey your images aren't showing up. I'd like to see, because maybe one day I'll care enough to tackle my headers.

Sorry mate - try now.

DJC · « **Reply #31 on:** August 14, 2016, 11:27:36 PM »

Also - I had a look at the post that RBM made on the K100 forum about modifying the fuel sender.
I was about to start this, but i have found that my gauge can be configured to read reverse resistance if required.
So, my question is now - what pins/colour cables do i need to connect the Acewell to?
I read somewhere that someone else connected it to the "Yellow on the OPTIONAL ACCESSORY plug" but if i take a look at that diagram. it connects to the headlight and headlight switches.
So, now i'm confused.

rbm · « **Reply #32 on:** August 15, 2016, 03:14:24 AM »

If you have a later model K100 with the float arm fuel level sender, then this electrical diagram you posted above is the incorrect one for your model bike. That one applies to early model (=<1985) You need the later model one (>1985).

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3UPbNZRyr1rWHlMbC01eGtwR1U

This will have the correct wiring and you'll be able to identify the right plug. It will be on the right side of the frame under the tank, near the relay box end and will look like an old style PC hard disk power connector.

DJC · « **Reply #33 on:** August 15, 2016, 04:46:38 AM »

I have a 1983 model.

DJC · « **Reply #34 on:** August 18, 2016, 06:56:30 PM »

Hey Folks,

Time has come for some professional intervention.

Shipped her off to get some surgery yesterday.

Shes off getting a new tail loop section and seat put on. Can't wait to ride - it's getting close.

DJC · « **Reply #35 on:** September 15, 2016, 08:53:20 PM »

Gents,

Has anyone made up a bracket for the Acewell Speedo reed-switch setup? Pics or sketch?

It looks like its going to be tricky.

//OR//

Anyone have a spare dash that they can pull out the motometer thingy and i can buy it off you?

Bike is still in the workshop - the builder has a lot on at the moment. Hopefully i'll get it back within a couple of weeks.

DJC · « **Reply #36 on:** September 26, 2016, 09:57:03 PM »

Quote from: rbm on August 15, 2016, 03:14:24 AM

If you have a later model K100 with the float arm fuel level sender, then this electrical diagram you posted above is the incorrect one for your model bike. That one applies to early model (=<1985) You need the later model one (>1985).

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3UPbNZRyr1rWHlMbC01eGtwR1U

This will have the correct wiring and you'll be able to identify the right plug. It will be on the right side of the frame under the tank, near the relay box end and will look like an old style PC hard disk power connector.

Hey RBM,

Any thoughts on how to get the older style Fuel Level sender working for mine? Seeing as its an 1983 model?
I read somewhere that it uses self-heating thermistors. Would that mean that there is a variable resistance as the level varies or is it a variable voltage?

DJC · « **Reply #37 on:** October 04, 2016, 11:09:42 PM »

Hey all,

Any thoughts on creating the attached for the fuel sender?

looks like i can just trigger two relays to put various resistance into the fuel meter on the acewell which can be configured to take a 0-500Ohm signal.

DJC · « **Reply #38 on:** October 20, 2016, 09:21:40 PM »

She's got a new tail and exhaust.
So close.

rbm · « **Reply #39 on:** October 21, 2016, 07:37:09 AM »

Try prototyping this circuit to see if it works:

I'm assuming you've kept the OEM fuel level circuit board from inside the BMW cluster and the outputs of that card are being used to drive the relays.

DJC · « **Reply #40 on:** October 21, 2016, 09:53:16 PM »

Okay, I was under the impression that the thermistors inside the tank spat out a +12V signal when NOT exposed to fuel.
I haven't snagged the unit out of the old dash yet. Is it as easy to remove as the speedo board?

rbm · « **Reply #41 on:** October 22, 2016, 04:40:23 AM »

The NTC resistors in the tank sensor are part of an electronic system which must have the circuit card from within the OEM gauge cluster present to work. It is easy to open the gauge cluster and remove the card.

DJC · « **Reply #42 on:** October 22, 2016, 04:50:52 AM »

Thanks RBM, do you know where I can find a diagram of the internals of the cluster to find what card to remove.

rbm · « **Reply #43 on:** October 22, 2016, 05:04:06 AM »

Dieter's K-tacho Kompendium

https://flic.kr/p/qGzzPe

DJC · « **Reply #44 on:** October 22, 2016, 05:10:32 AM »

Okay, looks like it's probably an L shaped unit in one of the corners. I'll check it out tomorrow and see what I can rig up.
Thanks.

DJC · « **Reply #45 on:** October 23, 2016, 06:47:26 PM »

RBM,

The unit looks the same as this.
http://www.k1100lt.de/files/flybrick/DKTK/Bilder/73.jpg

I can see a + / - / C / A .

Thoughts on what the C and A mean?

DJC · « **Reply #46 on:** October 23, 2016, 06:50:04 PM »

Also, here is an update of what she looks like.

Took it for a quick spurt on Sunday - the weight loss is definitely noticeable

I know this photo may offend some purists.

Laitch · « **Reply #47 on:** October 23, 2016, 06:53:20 PM »

Quote from: DJC on October 23, 2016, 06:50:04 PM

Also, here is an update of what she looks like.

Pretty slick, DJC! What size and make of tires and tubes, front and rear?

The Dude · « **Reply #48 on:** October 23, 2016, 07:47:31 PM »

Slick?oh well.Nobblies and high zorsts imply mud and river crossings.Cut down mudguard implies shit hitting the fan!
Yeah, I think form follows function but there will be a lot of fun to be had on your bike DJC.and that trumps everything.It made me larf not barf.

DJC · « **Reply #49 on:** October 23, 2016, 07:57:47 PM »

MITAS ET09 are the Tyres.
Not 100% sure on them yet. Might go for something a bit more suited to the road with a little bit of knobbly-ness.

Yeah Dude, you're not wrong, jeez its fun.
But yeah I'm going to get a radiator guard set up and probably larger guard when i take it off-road. Don't want stones through my radiator.

News:

Author Topic: The Khan - a fools attempt at a K100 build (Read 47647 times)