The Khan - a fools attempt at a K100 build

[DJC]

Hello fellow brick heads.
I've been lurking here for a while, thought I'd post some progress photos and notes on my build to give back to the community.

I'm a serial project guy, I've always got something on the go. First one was a GSX 250 Cafe Build.
But I yearned for more.

I needed a brick in my life.
So, I bought my K100 a few months ago. Here she is



And i promptly started to disassemble it with little to no idea of what the hell I was doing.
Here she is all cleaned up and unnecessary items removed.


The plan is to go for the street tracker/scrambler style. Something i can use in the post apocalyptic world, so want to be able to easily add some form of custom luggage racks/tragkorbs.

The plan:
Shorten tail loop and go for custom seat.
New head light/tail light and indicators. All LED units.
New levers/hand controls.
New handle bars
New rear suspension (if $$ allows it)
Motogadget M-unit with M Button for all the controls and switching (Has anyone used this before?? I may need some assistance)
New rearsets
New Mirrors
New Speedo - went with the Acewell 4353ab
Paint wheels
Paint misc parts
Clean EVERYTHING.
Clean EVERYTHING AGAIN.

This here is the current progress.

Seat removed:



Trying to figure out how much to chop off the tail loop.



Dash and lights off



Headlight and speedo mocked up:



Tank removed - manual out.



Trying to figure out whether or not i can get rid of all these relays with the motogadget m-unit.
Anyone shed some light?



That's all for now.
I'm still waiting for the M-unit to come so i had to pause the electrical work.
I got distracted by removing the battery and now im cleaning the 30years of muck in there and trying to get the stains off the alloy.
I've found that WD-40 and a green scouring pad works great with a bit of elbow grease.

I'll keep you all updated.
Stay tuned over the coming months.

DJC

[bocutter Ed]

All I see is ...


Edit: Fixed. Tanks ...

[Chaos]

All I see is ...

Looks like an 85

[Chaos]

Sorry, just noticed it's from down under :hehehe

[rbm]

Trying to figure out whether or not i can get rid of all these relays with the motogadget m-unit.
Anyone shed some light?

Doubtful.
FI relay - no
Load shed - no
horn relay - yes
flasher unit - yes.  Will require major modification of the controls.
BMU - yes
temp switch- no
start relay - no

And then at the end of all this, you're still left with the K100 wiring harness mostly intact because the m-unit won't allow you to replace the Jetronic system wiring and components.

[Laitch]

I'm fairly certain the world wants to know the make model and size of both the front and rear knobbies, DJC.

[DJC]

Thanks RBM.  Somethings to consider there.

Laitch, they are Mitas Enduro E-09s.

[DJC]

Finally got the swing arm off to inspect and grease the splines today, I had almost given up as one of the bolts was pretty well seized (I had already checked the final drive and internals of the drive shaft).
But, persistence pays and I got the little prick off. Gave the arm section a deep soak in degreaser and scrubbed for a good 45mins with WD-40 and a scotch brite pad. Came up brilliant.

Will post photos layer when I get the chance.

[Laitch]

It's great to see a bike wrung out like that one was. Good luck with your project!

[Martin]

Welcome to the asylum from QLD.
Regards Martin.

[DJC]

Got the Lights and Horn outputs all wired up from the M-Unit to the new lights and old Horn (not sure where to locate the horn yet).
Need to figure out how to connect the Start output from the Mu-Unit to the Start relay.
I'm reading the circuit diagram in the manual however i'm still a bit confused.
Has anyone done similar ? I assume that i will need to do something along the lines of cutting the original switched 12+ that triggers the relay and use the M-Unit output from that.

I'm removing all the original hand controls and installing two of these



They will be able to do L-Blinker, R-Blinker, H/L Beam, Horn, Start & Kill (Start and Kill are through pressing a combination of buttons.)

[rbm]

Have you seen the Stuntexclub video? 

[DJC]

That's great thanks mate.

You're a prolific contributor RBM. You're a gentleman and a scholar.

[Elipten]

Is there an English version?

[Laitch]

Is there an English version?

Click on CC at the bottom right of the screen, Elipten.

[Elipten]

Duh! And thanks

[DJC]

Back at it.
(yes my garage is a fuckin mess. i am aware and ashamed.)

Had a good stab at it over the past few days.
Got the Acewell wired up (sort of)
Things that are working on the unit.
>Blinker indicators
>H-Beam Indicators
>RPM (sort of - very jumpy at the moment, may need to build the filter that others have talked about)
>On/Off

Things that aren't working
>Speed (i have removed Motometer thingy from the original dash unit. However, it doesn't seem to work) Can anyone shed some more connection info on that?
> Neutral indicator (i remember a memeber making pre-made units for this - are they still available?)
>Fuel - not sure how to get this one to work at all...thoughts?
>Water temp - not going to use this
> Warning light - might hook this up as an alternative.

Half done with the Motogadget M-Unit. wiring is a mess, but at the moment its functional for the front half of the bike - rear lights yet to be installed.


Will need to shorten a bunch of cables and tidy up some of the connections when its all complete.

Installed the new bars, still a bit so-so on them. Not sure i like them.
Mocked up the new clutch, front brake, throttle. Nothing is connected yet, just mounted.




Also mocked up where i want the EFI/computer thingy to go. I'll need to make a bracket to sit it under there.



As you may be able to see in some of the photos, i've cut the rear part of the tail section off. Waiting for the new tail-loop to come. Its going to be a long U-Shape that will come all the way up to the tank. Not just a small U-Shape that will connect to the cut-off part. I want it to sit on top to get the angles right.


Next steps while i wait for more gear to arrive are:
Clean up cabling.
Properly connect the clutch/brake/choke.
Install the bar switches for lights/start/stop etc. (waiting for the switches still).
Figure out why the speedo isn't working and make the Tacho work properly - very jumpy.

Has anyone relocated their choke? i'd rather not have it on the handlebars, maybe just a small lever where the connection point is or something.

[jjs1234]

Could I see pictures of your mounting of your acewell please.

I was going to mount mine to the handlebar bolt...

[DJC]

Not mounted properly yet.
Initialy I had it on the risers, but it stuck out too far. I'll need to make a bracket that sits a bit lower.
But I'll probably keep it bolted to the riser.

[DJC]

Installed my left hand switch block m-switch.
Also cut and shaped the front fender which was surprisingly easy with a bench belt sander. Will need to give it a coat or two.
Writing and updating while on the phone so, sorry for the formatting.

[DJC]

Also I followed the instructions on another thread
 about using the stock motometer circuit board and using this for the speedo/acewell input.
But I'm just getting a solid 6v output I haven't taken it out for a spin yet because it's not rideable but I've vigorously spun the wheel and then tried turning it on while on the centre stand and putting it in first to get the wheel going. But still no luck.


  (Further info on how I mated stock speed sensor to aftermarket gauge  (BMW to 5v Digital)

This method worked for my 93 K1100LT (ABS 1/early model year version), proceed at your own discretion. 

1) Remove your stock gauge cluster.
2) Open it up to reveal the back of the important bits.
3) You will see that there are a couple small circuit boards placed in plastic clips.  You are looking for one that is approx 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide and 2 1/2 to 3 inches long.  It is readily accessible. It will say in printing " blah blah part #, MOTO METER, blah blah part #."  I can long longer read those off my board before you ask.  Another visual indicator is that it has 4 female connections in a row on one end.
4) Remove the board.
5) I removed the 4 female stab connectors and put in terminal connections.  Each connection point is labeled with other a single or dual letter combination.  I can no longer read mine.

6) When looking at the top (front) of the board and the MOTO METER is correctly orientated the connections are as follows:
Left to right

           Speed sensor +  (yellow wire) (from final drive)

           Ground (brown wire from speed sensor AND another lead to vehicle ground)

           Digital Signal Output + (any color you like) (you need to identify which lead from your new speedo is the POSITIVE SIGNAL IN)

           12v + (I used switched power from something that I removed)

7) Package it up to prevent shorts, use the new speedo tire diameter to adjust and calibrate. 

Note: This circuit supplies 6 (six) 5 volt + signals for every rotation of the wheel

Has anyone else successfully used the old motometer board? I'd rather not admit defeat.

[revisitedmotorcycleco]

I recently bought a Motogadget M-unit & M-button & am about to remove what seems like a ton of relays on my '88 BMW K100RS & find myself intimidated a bit w which relays to remove safely. Before I go past the point of no return, I'm trying to determine which, if any of the relays associated with engine/ fuel management & that computer need to remain before I completely butcher everything up. Any advice or additional photos would go a long way.
Thanks in advance,

[DJC]

Don't worry. I was just as hesitant.
You'll need to keep the starter relay, the load shed relay and the temp switch.
The rest I pulled out.
Then relocated the remaining relays all to one side of the box the m-unit slides in neatly.
My wiring is in no way neat at the moment.   

[rbm]

We'll try to get you going.  No need to admit defeat.

Board Schematic



Board Connections



In this photo, the pins are:
"+" - Power input (usually Green/Black)
"BA" - Speed signal output to Acewell.  BA stands for B-ausgang or B-output.
"-" - Ground (usually Brown)
"BE" - Speed sensor input (yellow) BE stands for B-eingang or B-input.

Make sure you have attached the Brown wire from the speed sensor to a ground connection on the bike.  BTW, it should be six 7.5V pulses per revolution, not 5V pulses.  The 7.5V Zener determines the output amplitude.

[DJC]

You're a bloody legend. I'll try this on the weekend and update.