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Author Topic: 88 K75s runs then cuts out  (Read 17092 times)

Offline Jethroww

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88 K75s runs then cuts out
« on: May 31, 2016, 09:30:17 PM »
Hi Everyone, This is a great place for Brickers :clap: Was told the K75s I purchased sat for close to a year.  Also told it might need a clutch. Got her home charged the battery. Was going to do a oil change and noticed I was short 1 liter of oil. So I thought I would just see if it ran. Started and heard a grinding/gears noise. Stopped and tried 1 more time same noise. Sounded like from the front. Removed the water pump and it looked like it was just replaced. Checked the clutch 5.25-5.3 = Good. Put all back together( clutch rod would not come out of the trans?). Spline job with Honda Molly M-77. Redline 75W90 final drive. Redline MTL in transmission. Shell RotellaT 15W40/new filter for the engine. All the old oils removed black and filthy. Started and ran for a about a minute. This time heard some banging from the left back side of the engine.  The new oil I just put in came out black but not as filthy looking. Did another oil/filter change. Will start and run but sounds like a clunk in the bell-housing below the alternator and then just stops dead. Restarts fine and if I play with the throttle will run for maybe 2 minutes then the clunk and complete dead stop. No miss firing,starving for fuel, run-on just a complete stop. 72,000KM
 Thanks for any help
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  • Ontario,Canada
  • BMW 1974 R75/6, BMW 1988 K75s 1989 BMW K100RS-SE Past: 1972 Norton Commando Combat

Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2016, 10:31:03 PM »
Quote from: Jethroww on May 31, 2016, 09:30:17 PM
So I thought I would just see if it ran. Started and heard a grinding/gears noise. Stopped and tried 1 more time same noise. Sounded like from the front. . . .  Started and ran for a about a minute. This time heard some banging from the left back side of the engine. . . .Will start and run but sounds like a clunk in the bell-housing below the alternator and then just stops dead. Restarts fine and if I play with the throttle will run for maybe 2 minutes then the clunk and complete dead stop.
Welcome, Jethroww. How about posting a photo of your bike in the Klassic K-Bike section?

An audio file or YouTube video with the various noises would be helpful at this point. The "grinding" noise from the front was a two-time-only thing?

You might remove the fuel tank cap assembly to see what the interior of the tank looks like and post a photo if it isn't clean and bright.
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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline K1300S

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2016, 06:55:58 AM »
Redline Mtl is way too thin to use in the transmission.   Btdt.
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Offline johnny

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2016, 07:19:28 AM »
have not had a trans problem with this 75w140...





j o
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Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2016, 09:55:55 PM »
Hi I have finally uploaded a audio/video of the noise. This is with a new battery installed. Was running better again this time. You will hear it stall but it has stopped making the load clunk noise. I am cleaning the starter and alternator brushes to see if this was the reason it would not restart. It was just making a click noise and not starting.



Thanks
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  • Ontario,Canada
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Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2016, 11:06:15 AM »
As far as I can tell from my tiny laptop speakers your engine sounds normal right up until it stops.

I have no idea what the noise is that it makes when you try to restart.  Could be the start relay pulling in.  It is possible that one of the magnets in the starter motor is loose and jamming the armature, they're only glued to the body of the motor.   I seem to recall that someone had that problem in the past year.  When you go in to do the brushes it should be easy to spot any magnet problems.

Are you sure the fuel pump runs after you start the engine?  The circuit for starting is different from the circuit when the engine is running.  Could be the fuel pump isn't running after the engine starts. 
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Offline johnny

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2016, 09:09:59 PM »
oh my fecking gawd... you needs to commence to motobricking there jethroww... you keep that thing above 5 thou on the tack from the get go and you will be getting you so much yeeeehaaaa that you wont notice any imaginary noise or imaginary 2 minute stopping...

j o
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Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2016, 06:52:25 PM »
Hi Thanks for the info. Upon further investigation if found a fuse missing. Should the K75s have this one? looks like one was there before?


Hi Johnny  "my fecking gawd" Canuk ears didnt like what they heard. So I removed the valve cover and this is what I found



I also found this wet substance on cylinder #1?



I think I will check and see if the timing is set correct( marks match up).
Thanks again for the help.
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  • Ontario,Canada
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Offline johnny

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #8 on: June 11, 2016, 07:46:45 PM »
.
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Offline kennybobby

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #9 on: June 11, 2016, 08:01:50 PM »
That is the accessory fuse, or spare fuse slot, if you have no accessories.  Available for wiring in new gadgets.

the valve cover looks to be welded, likely to repair some crash damage.  Can't tell what's in the other pictures.
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Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2016, 11:54:41 PM »
Hi Sorry i tried to insert the pictures in between the lines as i was talking about the problems. But they just ended up at the bottom.
The second last picture is of the mating surface of the engine to the valve cover damage area. Looks like just the valve cover was damaged? The last picture is of the cylinder #1 air intake tube. I tried to turn the engine over with the rear wheel no can do. Seems the engine is stuck at the point in the video when the engine stops and I just get clicks trying to restart. Thanks
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  • Ontario,Canada
  • BMW 1974 R75/6, BMW 1988 K75s 1989 BMW K100RS-SE Past: 1972 Norton Commando Combat

Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #11 on: June 12, 2016, 06:37:13 AM »
Quote from: Jethroww on June 11, 2016, 11:54:41 PM
Seems the engine is stuck at the point in the video when the engine stops and I just get clicks trying to restart.
It won't hurt to remove the crankcase cover to see what's happening. Another member here found a failure of oil circulation when he looked in there after the starter wouldn't crank the engine.
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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
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Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2016, 06:47:39 AM »
Quote from: Jethroww on June 11, 2016, 11:54:41 PM
Hi Sorry i tried to insert the pictures in between the lines as i was talking about the problems. But they just ended up at the bottom.
The second last picture is of the mating surface of the engine to the valve cover damage area.
If you are referring to the orange bead along the seam, that could be high temperature sealer. If that's what it is, it should be around each corner of the cover as part of standard installation procedure.
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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #13 on: June 12, 2016, 11:54:19 AM »
Hi, I have removed the crank cover and I do see oil? To my eye everything looks good?
My nest step is the timing chain cover. Here are some picks of the crank for the better
eyes to spot a problem?  Thanks
 
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  • Ontario,Canada
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Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #14 on: June 12, 2016, 12:11:18 PM »
Put the transmission in neutral then see if you can turn the engine using an open end wrench on the flats of the camshaft. If you lift the wrench too high, you'll trap it in the head so rotate the shaft with low- to mid-position lifts.
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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #15 on: June 12, 2016, 02:58:39 PM »
Hello again, Laitch I don't have a wrench to turn turn the cam. Here are some pics of the timing chain. I can't find anything wrong?

 The last pic is of what came out the rad with just water in it.

I did notice that the water/oil pump was changed by the previous owner. I did take everything apart up to and including the clutch. Could it possibly be some mistake I made reassembling the clutch/trans/rear end? I guess my next step would be to remove the bellhousing and take a look for damage?
Thanks again
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  • Ontario,Canada
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Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #16 on: June 12, 2016, 03:09:37 PM »
Quote from: Jethroww on June 12, 2016, 02:58:39 PM
I don't have a wrench to turn turn the cam. . . .Could it possibly be some mistake I made reassembling the clutch/trans/rear end?
Given the circumstances you're describing, I think that's a distinct possibility.
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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #17 on: June 16, 2016, 09:39:02 AM »
Hi, I did find a wrench. The trans is in neutral and the engine will not turn at all with either cam.  Thanks
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  • Ontario,Canada
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Offline Martin

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #18 on: June 16, 2016, 09:57:52 AM »
Will it turn over with the spanner (wrench) if you pull the clutch in.
C.heers Martin.
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Offline kennybobby

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #19 on: June 16, 2016, 11:45:58 AM »
Wouldn't it be easier to just use an allen wrench and turn it at the crankshaft (CW direction)--why take a chance on snapping a camshaft?  i've never heard of such nonsense.
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Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #20 on: June 16, 2016, 12:10:57 PM »
Quote from: kennybobby on June 16, 2016, 11:45:58 AM
Wouldn't it be easier to just use an allen wrench and turn it at the crankshaft (CW direction)--why take a chance on snapping a camshaft?  i've never heard of such nonsense.
Sounds like it might be easier for you, kb. A breaker bar and the he-manitude of the South wasn't urged.

The engine is seized. If it won't move with the clutch pulled, there might be valve, bearing or rod problems. If the bore can be looked at with an endoscope, that might settle the question. The jury is still out.



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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #21 on: June 17, 2016, 09:56:26 PM »
 Hello again, I was trying to loosen the clutch nut to remove the bell housing and to my surprise the engine started to rotate.
I will check to see if the timing is correct. Think I should remove the bellhousing and take a look?
Thanks
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  • Ontario,Canada
  • BMW 1974 R75/6, BMW 1988 K75s 1989 BMW K100RS-SE Past: 1972 Norton Commando Combat

Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #22 on: June 17, 2016, 10:00:51 PM »
Quote from: Jethroww on June 17, 2016, 09:56:26 PM
Hello again, I was trying to loosen the clutch nut to remove the bell housing and to my surprise the engine started to rotate.
Does the transmission shaft turn?
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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles

Offline Jethroww

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #23 on: June 17, 2016, 10:21:33 PM »
Hi Laitch, Yes it does. I put about 1/3 can of Seafoam in the engine oil before it stopped.
Ran for about 2-3 min with the Seafoam before it stopped if this helps.
  Thanks
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  • Ontario,Canada
  • BMW 1974 R75/6, BMW 1988 K75s 1989 BMW K100RS-SE Past: 1972 Norton Commando Combat

Offline Laitch

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Re: 88 K75s runs then cuts out
« Reply #24 on: June 17, 2016, 11:10:19 PM »
The engine crankshaft and the transmission shafts rotate without binding or making noise?

The stalling may have been coincidental to the rough-running engine's vibrations causing an intermittently weak electrical connection somewhere, and nothing may have been damaged after all. If the intermediate housing is removed but no problem is found, then the decision must be made whether to inspect the cylinder bores and remove the cylinder head, or bolt it back together and try starting it again.
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  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
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